UKC

After climbing the fantastic, but lewdly named Don't Jis on my Sofa (6a+) at Barland Quarry (Gower) yesterday I was wondering what other nominations people had for brilliant climbs in truly ugly quarried holes.
Trad or Sport, to qualify all that is required is a 3* set of moves in a minus 3* location. So coastal quarries with a sea view (e.g. Dancing Ledge) are definitely out, as I guess are places with a foreboding post-industrial charm like Llanberis Slate - but which are the great climbs in the grottiest corners of our land?
Potential for a tour of beauty ticklist here!

In reply to The Ivanator:
Chocolate Blancmange Gully, Horseshoe Quarry.

/gets coat.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Man In Tears (7b+) - An enormous dirty hole but has a couple of gems. This one is still on my to do list.
Zapple (HVS 5b) - Maybe not as grotty as some places, but its still a dirty hole in the ground with no nice views. And Zapple is great (when dry)!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Flight of the Mad Magician  6b Legaston quarry.

In reply to The Ivanator:
Does Sapper 4c at Bowles count?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1109

OK only ** but Bowles is an old quarry.

Not technically difficult, but the body sized hole beats many people who quickly learn the size isn't everything!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Supercrack at Lorry Park Quarry. Has to be one of the ultimate shithole crags in the UK but what a route!?

In reply to The Ivanator:

I've never climbed it, but does Great Crack, Dukes Quarry qualify?

In reply to The Ivanator:

Strongbow in Luxulyan Valley Quarry, Cornwall.

Strongbow (7c)

In reply to 1234None:

The Squealer (7c) at Lorry Park is also fantastic. Great sheet of rock, awful venue.

Andy F

In reply to The Ivanator:

Any 3* route at Baildon

In reply to andy farnell:


That'd probably require multiple visits for me, and just going there once for supercrack was more than enough, although I have seen pics of the squealer and it does look like good climbing. What a dump though! I also recall being chased by the gypsies' dog on the way back to the car, which certainly added to the overall "experience". That place makes Horseshoe look like paradise!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Everything at Millstone?

In reply to Tom Last:

Really...isn't that valley quite picturesque? The pics of the crag on here don't look so bad....

In reply to The Ivanator:

There's half a dozen 3* routes in Auchinstarry Quarry but it's pretty low on the ambience scale!

In reply to 1234None:

Yes, Luxulyan Valley Woods is beautiful as are the crags - the quarry being to my mind the exception.

In reply to planetmarshall:


If Millstone classes as a really ugly place to you, you've obviously managed to avoid most of the real shithole places! Try Halldale, Lorry Park or even Masson Lees quarries for size!

In reply to 1234None:

Any I'm probably being a bit unfair just because it's a quarry

In reply to The Ivanator:

[crag(19293,"Gilson's Slab")... Downhill Racist would fit the bill, incredible route,shitty crag.

In reply to Tom Last:


They can be tough places to like...I've certainly had a bellyfull of them in and around the peak. The limestone quarries there are particularly grim, but they have some OK climbing...

In reply to 1234None:


I was lucky to get it in a session. Didn't get on Supercrack due to the queues!

Andy F

In reply to The Ivanator:

OK you've excluded sea cliffs, but popping out out of the dark and slimey Avernus at Swanage into brilliant sunlight overlooking the sea is a magic experience.

Avernus (S 4a)

In a similar vein emerging from the top of Lockwood's Chimney makes it all worth while

Lockwood's Chimney (VD)

In reply to Cerris90:


Probably some of the stuff at Ley also?

In reply to Trangia:

Also neither are in old quarries.

In reply to ianstevens:


Are you sure Subluminal isn't?

In reply to Trangia:

I don't *think* it is... I could well be wrong. Clogwyn y Bustach definately isn't, but Lockwood's Chimney is such a dank hole you may as well count it as one!

In reply to ianstevens:

In any case, Subluminal pretty definitively has a sea view, and could hardly be described as "a minus 3* location" or "one of the grottiest corners of our land". And while I haven't done either climb, they sound like great fun but hardly "3* sets of moves". So back to the drawing board, I think.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Some great and slightly outside the criteria suggestions so far, but all interesting reading. I thought Tintern would have something to offer! Although not amongst the very ugliest quarries Fairy Cave is still far from an aesthetic delight, so I guess Rob's Crack (VS 4c) and Moving Target (E3 5c) are legitimate additions.
The Barland climb in the OP had been on my wishlist for several years and still managed to exceed my expectations, an absolutely stunning route - it did still feel somewhat perverse to be spending precious climbing hours in a grim North facing hole with beautiful coastal crags just a 10 minute drive away!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Brad Pitt

In reply to The Ivanator:

Anything at The Breck.

In reply to stevieb:

Dukes Quarry is anything but a grim hole...its a lovely nature reserve ... Great Crack is up with the best VS climbs in the peak if its bone dry (and normally a great HVS with a wet start). Bailden is only a bit grim and has some great routes from S.

This is more like it:

Private Targets (E1 5b)

This is a great climb but maybe not grim enough on the hole stakes:

The Best Bit of Rock in Glossop (VS 4c)

In reply to The Ivanator:

The nettle filled Point Quarry in the Forest of Dean has an immaculate 50 foot crack aptly named Forked Lightening

Rosyth Quarry is a flea bitten hole but has a little VS corner that could grace a gritstone edge anywhere. Heathy, I think.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Grave's End at Summit Quarry and Ha'penny Arete at Deeply Vale. I've got a soft spot for Lancashire quarries so quite liked both venues but they're hardly beautiful and magnificent places to climb.

In reply to The Ivanator:
I'm going to give some love to Lancashire's quarries and nominate 999 (HS 4b) at Wilton 1 for a superb 3* with bomber gear, bold moves and the crux where it should be.

Then there is Jean Jeanie (VS 4c) 3* at Trowbarrow, one of the most climbed routes in Lancashire with reason. The sustained steep offwidth crack provides an intimidating pump fest and tops out to stunning views of Morecambe Bay. Ok maybe it is too pretty to get on this list but it has to get a mention. Get on it before it falls down.

In reply to Offwidth:

OK that's good to hear. I'd heard it was frequently damp and maybe overgrown, but good to hear its a pleasant location.

In reply to The Ivanator:

The 3 main routes at Thrang Quarry are pretty good despite the crag being pretty much literally a hole in the ground.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Red Rag to a Bull (E5 6b) at Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry). And everything else at split rock

In reply to The Ivanator:

Cairn (7a) at Harpur Hill probably meets the criteria

In reply to radddogg:

Compared to the grotty quarries we have here in central scotland thats a very pleasant venue. Great route, looking forward to a return trip at some point.

In reply to The Ivanator:

S Groove (E7 6c) is a ridiculously good piece of bold, technical climbing with a massively intense crux (F7a+ at nine metres with no gear), all wrapped up in a surrounding of half burnt scrap and a shooting range.

In reply to stevieb:

Most of the climbs there are overgrown and the first 3m of Great Crack is usually very damp but above that its a delight. Take something to cover the wet platform at the base and things go better. Its so good I've done it more times than I can remember.

In reply to Morty:

Came to post Bluebell Traverse, glorious moves!

In reply to The Ivanator:

I have to disagree that Fairy cave can be counted. It’s a stunning location and there are great views from the top. Maybe 40 years ago without all the trees it would count

In reply to climbingpixie:


Both are in quite pleasant locations.

In reply to The Ivanator:

I'm surprised no-one's mentioned this archetypal Central Belt diamond in the rough.

Scharnhorst (E1 5b)

A complete belter of a route hidden away among nettles, choss, broken glass and teenage drinking den huts. My belayer was stood on top of a burnt mattress. It was that good.

D.

In reply to stevieb:


There's nothing wrong with Dukes Qy that a bit of napalm wouldn't put right. Raises the question, though, whether a man made hole that nature is doing its best to reclaim really fits the OP's criterion.

In reply to DannyC:

Indeed, I can't believe auchinstarry got a mention after the landscaping! Especially when compared to rosyth (heathy and Cathy,) and cambusbarron (minus contract, et al. Just don't pull to hard at the top....)

In reply to jonnie3430:

Yeah, I think Auchinstarry's a pretty attractive spot these days and I never really get the mumps about it. Although it is the only place I have ever had stones thrown at me while soloing

Rosyth is certainly a candidate for 'grim hole' - particularly on a dry dusty morning with the embers of last night's rubbish fire still burning and only the buzz of the mini-motos to mask the M90. Though sadly the routes might struggle to fit the 'exquisite' criteria...!

D.

In reply to Lord_ash2000:

Thrang Quarry may not be the nicest part of the the valley, but the valley in question is Langdale so is definitely excluded from this list. Also none of the routes there get three stars even with the "sprinkling stars abundantly" attitude of the FRCC guides.

In reply to SenzuBean:

Nope, he understates, it's genuinely vile.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Got to be Mandarin at Hoghton - the best route on grit in a dark, muddy, mossy, gloomy hole in the ground,


Chris

In reply to DannyC:

Starry has got better since the locals lost interest in hanging about the area and shouting abuse although it's still a jungle getting into the routes round the back.
Rosyth is in a different league with perhaps the highlight being the kids trying to juggle knifes(it didn't end well)

YouyYIn reply to Chris Craggs:



You can add Boadicea to that list, better than Regent Street IMHO.

Andy F

In reply to 1234None:
Come on, surely per hill has to win the sh1t hole award, especially with added local yobs, scallies

In reply to andy farnell:




...... and Rhododendron Buttress.

Do those three and you never have to return!

Chris

In reply to kipper12: Pex may be a hole, but its a pleasantly wooded hole with very few scallies. Any many great problems/routes.

Andy F

In reply to The Ivanator:
Hmm, England seems to have a great many 'exquisite climbs in grim holes'. Lucky you.

Surprised no-one's mentioned one that straddles the Welsh border: Llanymynech Quarry . It's a very big and very grim hole, definitely in the 'in-yer-face' category.

Admittedly, the English part of the quarry is a bit less grim now that some recent clearance of the rapidly encroaching jungle has taken place, but pretty it is still not, while the neglected and largely unloved Welsh part is getting grimmer and more Jurassic-like by the day. Take your pick of the 3 star routes as there are three E2-E4 trad routes on Black Wall and four F7a clip ups on Nomad Wall.

Blind Faith (VS) is also probably worth 3 stars for the sheer improbability and audacity of the climbing rather than quality per se, although it once featured as a 'Climb of Quality' in Climber and Rambler mag in the late 1970s, presumably following an ascent where good judgement was badly clouded after a heavy session of alcohol or substance abuse. Not a route to comfortably solo; the route name itself is a bit of a give-away ....

In reply to Mike Highbury:


You need to be a caver to appreciate Fairy Caves quarry: the caves are utterly stunning !!!!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Anyone mentioned SE Wales Sandstone yet?

In reply to The Ivanator:

Highway One, at, er, whatever that grotty hole in the ground is called. Portishead?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:



I belayed my friend on that, genuinely terrified for him, seriously snappy rock. To be fair Portishead has a very good concentration of decent routes for such a dingy location!

In reply to thermal_t:

>genuinely terrified for him, seriously snappy rock.

Blimey. If I was you I wouldn't go on the culm.

jcm

In reply to Dave Williams:

I didnt think Llanymynech was too bad as far as quarries go, quite a bit of tree cover and 'naturey' parts but quite open in places although the part of the quarry with the really short sport routes (Back bee tubin?) was more grotty. I also found the routes on Black wall to be very good but maybe not 3 stars. I liked the look of Nomad wall, one to go back to!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Maybe I just missed it but the routes in the electric quarry, stoney Middleton deserve to be in this list

In reply to bensilvestre:


Mmmmmmm, not sure about those routes.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Anything at Heptonstall. What a dump!

(I've not been for years for precisely that reason so if it's been cleaned up let me know)

In reply to The Ivanator:

Might be short, but Hang 'em High (E5 6c) at [(1583,"Hang Hill Quarry")] would be probably the most out of place and best route I have ever done. A superb arête with crag rock and moves of the highest quality in the middle of a dirty quarry surrounded by broken glass and dumped furniture.

I have climbed harder, but I have never felt so happy as I was the day I climbed that.

In reply to The Ivanator:

sistiana. partly quarried. and sea view. as well as a waste water treatment pöant.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

I wondered how far I'd have to scroll to find it and who would be the perpetrator! Mandarin has to be the route that defines the genre. Then there's Rhododendron Buttress and Boadicea.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Best example in The Lakes must be Darklands, Cathedral Quarry. Being a man of (only) my calibre I've only seconded it, albeit with the first ascensionist on his umpteenth ascent of it, and agree wholeheartedly with it's three stars. But what a hole it's in. There are nastier holes but not with such a magnificent climb, surely?

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

How dare you Caldwell!!! Baildon is a lovely spot!!!!!

In reply to radddogg:
Since when was trowbarrow classed as a grim hole?

In reply to Graham Booth:

What took you so long?!

In reply to The Ivanator:

I've only ever thought Anglezarke to be attractive when compared with Lester Mill just across the road; otherwise it's a scruffy place.

That said, Samarkand is a very good climb - though I must admit some bias, as it was my first VS lead.

T.

In reply to 1234None:
I reckon Masson is quite a pleasant place - almost feels natural with the trees, caves, kestrals, orchids, etc. Views are quite limited though. Lorry Park definitely topped the list of s**t holes, Harpur Hell close behind. I was so glad when Lorry Park closed as a mate had a project in there and wanted to visit frequently. With the warm up being a 6b+ that used to be an E4 then it wasn't much fun!

In reply to The Ivanator:


I can't think of any routes at Tintern that are particularly outstanding - equally, compared to some places it's not a horrific dump. Fairy Cave is a monstrous wasteland (but since I hate slab climbing I'm not going to nominate any routes there ), and some of the South East Wales quarries are grim, as FactorXXX mentions - it's been a while since I've climbed in many of them, so I can't think of any outstanding routes there. I was going to nominate Portishead, but it was free of scallies, and has a reasonable view across the Gordano Valley.

Agreed, Highway One is a disintegrating choss fest. More holds fell off that in two ascents than in a seasons climbing elsewhere including plenty of Culm.

In reply to whenry:

Encore Magnifique is a great route in the hole that is The Gap . Far from the worst hole that South Wales has to offer but it ticks the criteria

In reply to The Ivanator:

3 star routes in Lancashire?