UKC

What is Nottingham like to live in?

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 Tom_Ball 29 Oct 2015
Hi,

I am thinking of moving to Nottingham, and I would be interested to know what you think of the city, what the climbing scene is like, and where would be a nice area to live in.

Cheers Tom
 toad 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

One of the odd things about "nottingham" is that much of it isn't in the city. It 's a doughnut, with different boroughs, which are still very much part of the city, surrounding the administrative "city".

So for climbing (ie access to the peak), you might want to look north or east, say Gedling or Broxtowe boroughs - Beeston is ok - nearish the city centre, but en route to the M1. A fair number of students still, a working town centre and a big nature reserve (Attenborough) on your doorstep. Mapperley is uphill (PiTA for cycling) but again, an ok centre (though it's stretched on a main road) Nice mix of housing and it's north of the centre.
Sherwood is a bit more funky - nearer the centre, more diverse. range of terraces and semis. Next door Carrington is a bit of a hippy enclave. Closer to some of the rougher bits. The areas immediately north of the city like St Annes and Hyson Green are rougher. Much more inner city. Very diverse, and historically where the old Gun City rep came from - drugs and gangs were an issue, though never as serious as the media portrayed.

'Cos I'm dead posh, I live south of the river in West Bridgford. Walking distance of city centre (just) - 10 mins on the excellent buses. Harder to get to the m/way, though a new dual carriageway has really improved this. Bridgford has a rep for being middle class and overpriced, partly because the schools are v.good, but it has a really nice centre, with proper shops, though it gets a bit pre-clubby at weekends. It's also not that fancy (at least the bit I live in isn't). Next door Lady Bay is also very nice, and close to the water sports centre and the Trent for countryside.

Don't use the walls much, though the climbing centre is good, and I've heard good things about the bouldering in Sneinton (be careful with your bike/ car/ stuff - I used to work just round the corner and that really is an iffy part of town!)

Offiwidth will be along soon with an alternative view
OP Tom_Ball 29 Oct 2015
In reply to toad:

Thank you
 toad 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

oh, and be wary of ranking sites, like the channel 4 best/ worst to live survey - Nottingham does quite poorly because of the surrounding bits having the better housing stock, but are not being counted as Nottingham. Rushcliffe gets ranked very highly for the reverse reason, but they are the same place separated by a river!
 Chris the Tall 29 Oct 2015
In reply to toad:

Does West Bridgeford still have a lack of pubs ? My recollection of it was that it was a collection of 30's housing estates built by Scottish Presbyterians who frowned on the demon drink. I seem to remember wandering around looking for a pub, only to end up in the Larwood and Voce at the cricket ground. Beeston, on the other hand, had a pub of every corner (though some weren't exactly student friendly!)
 Offwidth 29 Oct 2015
In reply to toad:

Not much difference actually bit Ill do my best. I'd add the posh suburb effect is the arguably most noticable in the UK as the city schools were badly managed over the years (some are improving now) so the anxious middle class with kids shipped out en masse to Bridgeford etc. There are loads of keen climbers for any form you like. The two local walls are excellent for bouldering and have good scenes around them. NCC is good but limited by space in modern terms for lead and tr stuff. I've known people in shitty areas live nicely with a bargain due to good neighbours and others nearly break the bank in a posh zone and have neighbours from hell. NE Nottm is best for the Peak but there are some estates in Broxtowe even I would advise avoiding (and I lived in the rough and tumble of The Meadows for near a decade). City centre is nicely compact and thriving for most culture and shops you might want. Beer is arguably the best in the UK (it was up with the worst when I came here). Transport works better than most cities inc good buses and trams, cars suffer less jams than some similar conurbations but cycling provision is below par so take care.
 David Riley 29 Oct 2015
In reply to toad:
>
> So for climbing (ie access to the peak), you might want to look north or east, say Gedling or Broxtowe boroughs


Good effort. But I can't imagine any good route from Gedling to the Peak given Nottingham's appalling road system. I'd say north, and more important west, for the Peak.
 winhill 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

It all depends what you want from a City, I think.

toad is right about one thing, he is a posh outsider without a feel for the City. The Trent doesn't divide the City, it forms the southern border and people rarely go south of it, except to watch Nottingham Forest, when the fans effectively block access to Bridgford and abuse the angry residents trying to get home.

The hippy enclave isn't Carrington, it's next door in Forest Fields, although the demographic has changed with it being mainly a muslim area, pushing out the hindus and the sikhs and the hippies. Now the Poles have moved in and they've changed the feel again. It's still the place for smoked filled political debate, although now you have to stand outside the pubs.

Residentially, most of Nottingham is to be avoided but especially St Anns, the Meadows, Browtowe, Radford, Hyson Green due to gangs and guns, unless you are a martial arts aficionado looking to hone some special skills.

If you like City life, clubs. pubs, shops think about getting right into the city centre, actually a decent place to live plus you could walk to the bouldering place (which is St Anns, not Sneinton).

If not, Carrington, Sherwood, Mapperley Park are about the best options. After that you're outside of the city, not necessarily a bad thing, although Nottingham is rated 5th slowest city in England (up from 3rd!) for driving and the 20mph limits will make it worse, although the new tram to Beeston makes that look much more attractive (and expensive).

But don't go too far out, Derby is unthinkable and the villages up the M1 to Sheffield are red neck country, where the BNP hold their rallies and gigs.
4
 ebygomm 29 Oct 2015
In reply to David Riley:

Bizarrely living east means you can skirt round the city and get out to J27 faster than getting to the M1 from Beeston
 MG 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

A while ago now that I lived there so maybe it has all changed but I didn't like it - having someone stabbed outside your house doesn't impress. That aside, I suggest walking through the centre at 11pm before making a judgement about living there.
 David Riley 29 Oct 2015
In reply to ebygomm:

From where you used to live I presume you mean up to Mapperley top, past Burnt Stump, A60 to Mansfield and A38.
Beeston is nearer, quicker and easier than that. Especially for Cromford, Matlock, Dovedale, or Roaches.
I live just south west of J26. Convenient given I don't like climbing walls.
What the council have done to the roads makes me cross. But Nottingham is a good place to live. I lived 7 years in Cambridge, then Chelmsford, then Wimbledon. I came back to Nottingham and recommend it.
 toad 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Chris the Tall:
One of the oddest things about Bridgford is the bar scene. I moved here 25 ish years ago and there were a couple of pubs in the town centre area, with a couple of others much further out, because the god botherers had stymied the planners to such an extent that the only real pub was an art deco wonder that was designed to look like a hotel lobby to sneak past the disapproving.

That's all changed. There's a real bar scene - possibly too much of one - half a dozen restaurants, a few real ale pubs. A sort of street cafe thing in the summer. The Stratford Haven in Bridgford and the Poppy and Pint (the old British Legion) in Lady Bay are both Castle Rock Brewery, and The Monkey Tree and the Larwood & Voce both do good beer as well.

Football is irritating but manageable, providing you don't live right by Trent Bridge. The Cricket is only a few days a year for test matches, but much more inconvenient 'cos it goes on all day and some of the cricket fans are real drunken louts

PS there are a LOT of average speed cameras. Doesn't bother me that much, but I do warn visitors
Post edited at 12:50
In reply to Offwidth:

I lived in the Meadows and then Hyson Green and Sneinton before I left for the promised land. That was in the days of dreadful warm Home Ales dispensed from those see through pump cylinders on the bar.
Still do a lot with UoN and occasionally Trent, so see a fair bit of the city and its still a really great place. Those were the days of ticking the 'D' routes on High Tor on a Friday night on the way for a weekend based around Stoney. Unless you're got to live in Sheffield or Leeds, then big city access to climbing doesn't get much better than Nottingham.
 toad 29 Oct 2015
In reply to David Riley:

> Good effort. But I can't imagine any good route from Gedling to the Peak given Nottingham's appalling road system. I'd say north, and more important west, for the Peak.

sorry, brain fart. Meant west (though maybe not Broxtowe Estate?)
 Kassius 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

I live in north Nottingham a few miles from J27. Nottingham city is great loads of great places to eat and drink. Great climbing centres for bouldering and roped climbing. And a easy commute to the Peak District.
 David Riley 29 Oct 2015
In reply to toad:
It's got an impressive new swimming pool.

http://www.nottinghamcity.gov.uk/harveyhadden
Post edited at 13:03
 toad 29 Oct 2015
In reply to David Riley:

> It's got an impressive new swimming pool.


That's a sore point. The City have outsourced a lot of the leisure stuff and the pool in the Meadows is now so full of events and classes that actually getting an ordinary swim in after work is practically impossible unless you are prepared to go really late.

 seankenny 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

I lived there for a few years, but it was a while ago so things could have changed. Whoever said check out the city centre at 11pm was dead right - it's the only place I've seen people passed out on the pavement, throw in lots of scrapping and stag dos and it all felt a bit full on. A Saturday night in London is pretty sedate in comparison.
 winhill 29 Oct 2015
In reply to seankenny:

> I lived there for a few years, but it was a while ago so things could have changed. Whoever said check out the city centre at 11pm was dead right - it's the only place I've seen people passed out on the pavement, throw in lots of scrapping and stag dos and it all felt a bit full on. A Saturday night in London is pretty sedate in comparison.

OTOH most kids grow up going out in the city and it's only the most precious parents who stop them.

As the universities have expanded and student accommodation has moved into the centre, the nightlife is even more dominated by students than ever before.
 Offwidth 29 Oct 2015
In reply to seankenny:

Every time I went out in my family town of Northampton I felt like my life was in my hands; some of the youth were so stupid and nasty a group I was in was attacked during a black belt celebration. I've never had a problem with violence in Nottingham... my theory was a lot of people were so hard that randomly violent d*ckheads all came to a sticky end really quickly; most I knew who have been affected were looking for trouble or jumped in dark places away from crowds when drunk.

People on the pavement at kicking out time at the weekend is standard in most cities and many towns across across the UK , including many parts of London.

In reply to toad

Same brain fart... odd!?
 SuperstarDJ 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

I've lived here about 15 years and I really like it. There are a couple of good and different walls. I can be at Stanage in an hour (on a Saturday morning, leaving at 8am) from where I am in Mapperley. You can be in the Peak (Birchen, Wildcat) for an evening's climbing by 6pm if you get off at 4.30pm.

It's a good city centre to shop or wander around in. There's no 'out of town' shopping centre to suck the life out of the town and so it's survived intact. It's compact so easy to walk around, although not so small that you could do all the good places in an evening. It can be a bit lairy on a Friday or Saturday night but there are lots of good pubs, bars and music venues (Mansfield Road, Canning Circus and Hockley) so that element are easily avoided. It's got the nicest cricket ground in the country (and I say that as a Yorkshireman) so great for a Friday night at the Twenty20.

Other people have given good advice on housing areas. I'd just add that you need to come and have to look to get the vibe.

Generally it has the advantages of a city in that there's a lot going on and it has a good multicultural feel, but it's small enough to get to know and to feel at home in.

Don't believe the old chestnut about there being 10 women for every man. Not true. Or if it is, someone has my share

David
In reply to Tom_Ball:

Why don't you move to South East sheffield. It sounds much nicer and is way nearer to the Peak...
 phja 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

If you want to get shot move to Nottingham...if you want a good place to live move to Derby!
2
 Timmd 30 Oct 2015
In reply to phja:

I remember my Mum saying Derby didn't really have much of a centre when they lived there in the early eighties, I don't know if that's still true?
 Si dH 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Timmd:

It's not massive, depends what you want, but much improved in the last 10 years i would say. The council needs to pull its finger out and replace the assembly rooms, whixh was closed after a fire last year.
Overall, pubs are excellent, shopping is ok, nightclubs relatively weak (although I'm too old now anyway), and for big concerts or events you generally have to travel, although transport links are good.
It's good for lots of climbing.
 Clarence 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

Between Nottingham and Derby (they are close enough for most purposes and well served with reasonably priced public transport) you have four decent climbing/bouldering walls. Derby has Altar Rock and the Climbing Unit and Notts has Nottingham Climbing Centre and The Depot (not been but describes itself as a bouldering wall). As long as you avoid St.Annes, The Meadows, Hyson Green, Sherwood Rise, the tram route and anywhere too studenty then Nottingham is as nice as towns can be.
 Offwidth 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Clarence:

With that avoid list your being an idiot spouting cliches who clearly doesn't know the city...
1
 Kassius 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

Mucky hucknall all the way
 seankenny 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

> Every time I went out in my family town of Northampton I felt like my life was in my hands; some of the youth were so stupid and nasty a group I was in was attacked during a black belt celebration.

Yeah, provincial Britain is pretty grim. Do you reckon it's still like that tho? I get the feeling the country is markedly less violent than it was when I was growing up. Clearly I don't socialise in enough crap town pubs to form an accurate opinion...


> People on the pavement at kicking out time at the weekend is standard in most cities and many towns across across the UK , including many parts of London.

I found the difference between Nottingham and London was that it's easy to avoid this in London, but Nottingham's city centre is so compact and is mostly about drinking, so it felt way more in your face.

 Offwidth 30 Oct 2015
In reply to seankenny:
Nottingham centre IS in your face but if you park up by the theatre and see a show how is that so different to avoiding the more lively areas in London (albeit being on a smaller scale) or for that matter being in any number of posh country pubs or restaurants within half an hours drive.

Northampton is arguably getting worse but to be fair its the biggest town in the UK so desperately needs city type levels of investment and support. Its still possible to avoid problems there as well but in a much more limiting fashion.

Nottingham was out of control and the gun capital of the UK if you belived the press bullshit... I've always been way happier here.
Post edited at 12:57
 seankenny 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

> Nottingham centre IS in your face but if you park up by the theatre

Hold on, let me double check this, they have theatres in the sticks?


> Nottingham was out of control and the gun capital of the UK if you belived the press bullshit... I've always been way happier here.

I'd always suspected from your posts on here that you were a bit gangsta.

Sorry, couldn't resist both of those feeble jokes. It is Friday after all.

 winhill 30 Oct 2015
In reply to SuperstarDJ:

> Don't believe the old chestnut about there being 10 women for every man. Not true. Or if it is, someone has my share

It dates back in the 1850s, 3 to 1. That was due to the long term influence of the rag trade which attracted women to come and work in the city but also because it was reckoned that 3 times the actual population of women worked in lace. Obviously that would only work if the lace workers were cottage workers working from home in outlying areas and not actually city dwellers.

That has had a knock-on effect though, in that wages and houses prices have remained low, there's still a tradition of women going out in large single sex groups and the city has a feminine feel - mildly neurotic and under achieving in a nonchalant, laid back manner.

 Clarence 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

> With that avoid list your being an idiot spouting cliches who clearly doesn't know the city...

I've lived here for nearly 30 years and I am currently living near Sherwood Rise.
 deepsoup 30 Oct 2015
In reply to seankenny:
> they have theatres in the sticks?

I believe the correct theatrical term is "the provinces" luvvie.
 winhill 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Clarence:

> I've lived here for nearly 30 years and I am currently living near Sherwood Rise.

What do you not like about Sherwood Rise, some nice properties round there, a couple of Fothergill Watson's etc?

The garage at the bottom probably attracts some unsavoury characters, I once had someone try to steal my car from there - whilst I was sitting in it.
 Clarence 30 Oct 2015
In reply to winhill:

Property crime is pretty bad around here. My flat has been broken into twice in the past year (first time cleaned out, second time just vandalised) and my dad's car was stolen from outside a few months ago. As soon as I'm working full time again I'm off to somewhere better.
 Chris Harris 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/2...

A you can see, Nottingham is the the gun capital of the UK.

Oh, hang on a minute......no it isn't.
 The New NickB 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Chris Harris:

It's worth noting that the statistics you have posted give the figures for Nottinghamshire, rather than the city of Nottingham and compare it with much more urban police force areas.

I'm not saying that makes Nottingham the gun crime capital of the country, but it probably does make the comparison questionable.
1
 David Riley 30 Oct 2015
In reply to winhill:

Until I was 15 I lived in a Fothergill Watson house at the top of Sherwood Rise and had a holiday job on the till of the garage (Mee's) at the bottom. Didn't get robbed once.
 phja 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

For me (living between Derby and Nottingham), the biggest problem by far with Nottingham is the traffic....it's really bad.
querencia 03 Nov 2015
In reply to ebygomm:

I second this. I've lived in Bingham (se of Nottingham) and worked in Ruddington/Clifton (sw) for over 20 years, during which time most of the single carriageways have been doubled.

Everything else has been an education to me. Always good to find out what's on my doorstep.
 Offwidth 04 Nov 2015
In reply to querencia:

So which connurbations do you see as being much better for rush hour traffic?
 Wsdconst 04 Nov 2015
In reply to Tom_Ball:

Owt south of barnsley is classed as southern and shit

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