UKC

How do you do it? Ups and lows will happen... and that's fair. But what is your strategy when you get de-psyched? Watch climbing films? Go climb different venues? Climb with different folks?

I've slightly lost the mojo for rock but it doesn't matter much as winter in nearly upon us. I guess, I've lost it because I'm miles from where I want to be in order to complete the dream climb (with a very long term date in 2017) and with family and work obligations, whilst still improving, I am not where I should ideally be.

Anyways, anyone 2p's worth appreciated.

In reply to French Erick:

For me, you've nailed the answer in your own post. When psyche or opportunity for one genre of climbing wanes or is thwarted, you have others to switch to. I find I have natural cycles where I'm psyched for different things. Last winter it was grit bouldering, then trad for a bit followed by sport climbing over the course of this year. Sometimes it's good to take a break altogether though, let the mind and muscles have a rest ready for the next cycle.

In reply to French Erick:
Do different stuff through the year, which I guess you do? Rock in the summer, winter climbing in winter with dry tooling to supplement the gaps (ideal for October - November to get fit and psyched while waiting for winter conditions), may be some skiing and mountain biking. Also, set some medium term aims which are challenging but achievable. Above all, hang out and climb with psyched people!

In reply to French Erick:

I wouldn't say I'm suffering from low psyche however I'm not as bothered about trad as I was during the summer months. As already suggested mix things up a bit, got a bouldering mat? Much less hassle than trying to work out plans with a climbing partner and potentially faster paced than trad, just stuff it in the boot when the mood takes you...

In reply to French Erick:

Don't worry it's just post dreich summer blues.
Just imagine you're back on mainreachan buttress and that will get the blood pumping.

In reply to French Erick:

I'm quite up and down with psyche. I don't have a strategy for dealing with the low points, they tend to just happen due to life and circumstances. I've just had a year of not doing much climbing - but still quite enjoying it when I've been out just doing easier routes I've done before. Now, I'm pretty psyched for indoor training, so I can back up to where I was before and get on some experience-of-a-lifetime routes.

For me, I know the kinds of routes that provide profound, life-changing experiences - and I have to be fit and confident to climb them. The next on the list are totally doable if I train down the wall all winter, organise the trips with the right people, and get on with it.

I'm unlikely to every really get my psyche back for stuff that I used to be really keen on, e.g. grit, bouldering, peak lime, and even Gogarth, where I've done a lot of the routes a few times and what's left is either hard or unpleasant. I just need to decide what it is I want to climb, and then make it possible: that mainly means training, organising partners and booking time off. Once those are in place, I know I can go and have mind-blowing, fulfilling experiences that I'll remember forever. It shouldn't be hard to get psyched about that!

In reply to French Erick:

You think you are low now? You know nothing boy! You wait till tomorrow when some middle-aged overweight bald ornithologist whups your arse bouldering in Torridon! Then you'll feel low.

On the other hand we could pin down why you feel you are not where you feel you should be and work on a plan to get you nearer to your goal. Maybe.

In reply to French Erick:

Ignoring short term blips in psyche ('i feel f*cked, really cant be bothered going to the wall to do circuits') I think it's important to just do the things you enjoy, even if its not climbing!

Once you start thinking of yourself as a climber I think its easy to get drawn in and forget that all you're doing is taking the hard way up some squalid little outcrop. For sure it can be a lot of fun, but if you're not enjoying it then why are you really there? Just go and do something else. You can always come back to it (and any loss of form will be more than outweighed by the gain in psyche.)

That keeps me going is making shorter targets and not to plan for more that 6 months in advance.
If I would know that my next dream climb is in 2 years I would probably not touch the rock in those 2 years at all.

Having a smaller dream climbs every month keeps you really electric. The key is it has to be fun and have something special. Try a year of 'Less Stone Edge, more Alps'.

In reply to French Erick: You know there's a reason that many, if most professional athletes have a month off most years.

In reply to Jon Stewart:
Profound, life-changing experiences sounds a bit scary! Are you thinking of something like Lord of the Flies?

In reply to French Erick:

I find it's quite common this time of year, i.e. not winter, not summer. Often too cold for the rock, and the short days can be a bit limiting, but the white stuff also hasn't arrived yet!

In reply to French Erick:

At periods of low psyche I usually watch videos, plan trips, dream, wait for the opportunity to arise that gets you off your arse.

I've found periods of low activity are dangerous as there is a direct correlation between low activity and new pieces of expensive gear arriving through my door.

In reply to Michael Gordon:


We were climbing in t-shirts yesterday at Moy!

In reply to French Erick:

Can you not make a list of key routes which are nearer that when successfully worked through and climbed will be the key to climbing your dream route?

In reply to Steve Perry:

I have this list. It's when you fail to meet those short/mid term routes in proper form that psyche gets a knock back. But cheers for the advice.

To all:
Cheers for answers. I was curious as how people deal with it.
I had a fantastic day bouldering in Torridon and with no expectations I had a lot of fun.

In reply to Steve Perry:

Yes, some days can be good for sure. Today would have been amazing!

In reply to French Erick:


Was that The Rostrum...? Or have you ticked that?

Everyone has ups and downs in psyche and performance, I certainly do. But you know, you just need one good day out climbing and it'll turn right around. Until the next time, of course! It's one of the fascinating aspects of climbing.

In reply to French Erick:
forget about your dream climb for now and/or chasing higher numbers, i would pick a crag and try and do all the routes you can from the easiest up, having fun with not to much pressure.
before long your psyche will be back.

In reply to jon:

Not yet Jon,
Will try on my next US trip. List of in between goals is all Europe based as I have to save the pennies!
It's weird what climbing does to me... Without any offence meant to bi-polar people (I know little about this particular condition), I feel climbing makes me switch personalities at times. Thankfully, not too often. I still enjoy it for its own sake.

In reply to Misha:


Haha. No, I don't think things have to be at that level to be profound and life-changing. For me, doing a route on Dun Mingulay fitted the bill. Although the climbing never got dangerous (well it would have done if I'd carried on along that sopping wet, gearless traverse...) or hard, the experience of the place was overwhelming. An indelible experience, everything I go climbing for.

In reply to Jon Stewart:
It was great but not life changing for me - still stuck in an office!

In reply to French Erick:

One technique I use when feeling like I'm about to pussy out of doing a hard trad route is to ask myself 'when will I next have the opportunity to do this climb'

The answer is normally 'not for ages' and generally motivates me to get on with it.

Having said that, it may not help you if you're struggling to get out to the crag in the first place. Best of luck.

In reply to French Erick:


Yep, euphoric to manic depressive in just one red point failure!

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I struggle to think of a route I've done which seemed 'life changing'! I wish I could. That said, I've not been out to the islands. Not to say many routes haven't been incredibly rewarding, each one adding to a rich tapestry of climbing experience.