UKC

Morning all,

I've climbed on and off for about 12 or 13 years now (predominantly bouldering), and have certainly had my fair share of minor injury issues (pulley injuries, ankles etc.) but recently I've started suffering from Golfer's Elbow, which is doing my head (and elbows) in.

It started in the right arm, which has since improved hugely, but is now causing me great pain in my left arm. It isn't helped by motorbiking in the cold (clutch use).

I've been advised to take time out (in my 3rd week off from indoor training now) and exercise it using a lump hammer (as seen here vimeo.com/142072636 ) but its not really helping. I've not yet tried ibuprofen or other painkillers as I'd rather know when it hurts so I can be more careful not to strain it...

Any thoughts/quick fixes/healing advice?

Thanks in advance!

In reply to shaymarriott:

Search on here and on google for the 'flexbar' made by theraband

In reply to shaymarriott:

I think the disappointment is stemming from your phrase "quick fixes".

I had tennis elbow relentlessly for a year and went through the gamut of steroid injections, physio, acupuncture, rest, ice, MRI scan and finally visited a surgeon.

In the end the exercise you mention worked, plus very gentle climbing (no more than V Diff). But it took bloody ages and I think patience and a disciplined approach to working it is the only answer. Sadly the medical profession don't seem to "get" climbing as a sport.

In reply to shaymarriott:

Hi Shay, check out the elbow chapter in Dave Macleod's book Make or Break. The book is worth the investment.

Buy a dumbbell and free weights on the cheap from decathlon and do the excercises. I used to do 200xreps a day, luckily I was off sick for two weeks with a throat infection at the same time so could commit to it.

Two weeks, I gave up then realised it had gone a few days within a couple days of stopping.

The trick I read was go heavy and do many.

I now use a therabar on the odd occasion it flares up but its not stopped me from doing pull-ups or climbing, I do avoid typewriters as this will guarantee to bring on the pain again.

If you can, switch to doing your pull ups on rings, that bit of give in the twist avoids quite a bit of pressure on the elbows.

Ale

In reply to shaymarriott:

https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2012/11/23/golfers-elbow-a-possibl...

I found this stretch really useful to alleviate pain after climbing. Get some weird looks though if anyone sees you doing it!

I recovered fully in about six months by climbing gentle stuff (and not too often) and by stretching lots whenever it hurt. Also I avoided pulling movements outside of climbing, I found rowing machines and skimming stones (bizarrely) seemed to trigger off acute pain on the inside of my elbows.

I feel your pain and I know how frustrating it is but don't quit, it will get better! Good luck.

In reply to shaymarriott:

Lose the lump hammer and allow it to settle properly. An elbow clasp will help a lot http://www.healthandcare.co.uk/elbow-supports-braces/epicondylitis-clasp.ht...

For pain, I recommend capsaicin gel, but for goodness sake don't get it in your eye!! You can buy it on Amazon, or through NHS prescription

In reply to shaymarriott:

I thought I had golfer's for years. Even long periods off climbing didn't sort it out. It would typically come back after 6 months of climbing, just as I started to get stronger.

I finally had a rediagnosed by a second physio and it turned out it wasn't golfer's at all. It was an ulna nerve problem. The symptoms are very similar. I was told to stretch and build up my shoulders with overhead press, which seems have largely sorted it, apart from minor niggles now and then.

So if the lump hammer exercises aren't working, bear in mind it may not be golfer's and could be something else.

Also there's an interview with a climbing physio on TrainingBeta.com who reckons that the majority of elbow problems in climbers are related to shoulder issues.

Thanks very much for all the advice guys - really helpful.

I took about 6 weeks out of climbing completely (although I have a moderately physical job) and the right arm has completely stopped hurting. Been back twice now (short duration relatively easy climbing with decent warm up and stretch off) and the left is OK... Need to see how it behaves as I slowly try and step up the grades again.

Going to have a look for D-Mac's book and have a read - a few people have recommended it to me. Will also have a look at the stretches and other bits and bobs recommended on this thread.

If it doesn't seem to be improving further in another few weeks I'll have to have a rethink!

Thanks again

In reply to shaymarriott:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=7364

This is a useful article. I use Powerfingers as described and my elbow pain went away, although it wasn't as severe as yours!

In reply to shaymarriott:

I (finally!) found press-ups very helpful in at least getting the condition manageable.

Good luck.

In reply to shaymarriott:

Not too much more to add, but just wanted to wish you the best of luck with it. I'm back bouldering gingerly after 3year lay off due to tennis & elbow impingement problems that finally ended with surgery...

May be an age thing, but I've revised what I feel is achievable in terms of grades, and back off anything that feels overly crimpy or holds/moves that give the telltale twinges. Learn to listen to your aches and pains. Wish that I had!

I'm enjoying climbing in a more focused manner more often but less intensely and I'm firmer now in telling myself when to call a session to an end rather than just one more try/fail on a given problem. Hoping to build myself up slowly, but content to not crank overly hard.

Good luck with it.

In reply to shaymarriott:

I've got similar problems. I had it on the Right for about 18 months a couple of years ago which was a nightmare due to poor advice, info, research etc etc. I've now got it on the Left and managing it better.

I think it's important to be sure of the diagnosis. If it is golfers elbow or medial epicondylosis then find out as much about your own upper body as possible - physio etc, this will help you tailor your rehab.

The things I think are important:
Don't get an injection - there's evidence to suggest it will make it worse.
Start with low weight and build up - I was using only 1 kg for eccentric wrist extensions at the beginning.
Only exercise as pain allows, if you feel pain it is likely making it worse.

I do regular stretches, push ups, eccentric wrist extension and supination. I have stopped bouldering and using the finger board. I'm only climbing routes - as pain allows.

Good luck.

In reply to shaymarriott:

In my experience rehab exercises have to hurt to get the body to heal whatever the problem is. I've been doing the wrist twists with a dumbell and I am gritting my teeth and 'fighting' reps. Feels great again until the next training session =P

In reply to sparkass:


A lot of people get the injection then think everything's fixed and return to normal activity. This aggravates the injury and ends up making it worse.

Treated correctly however, injections can be a big help - they certainly were for me - so don't rule them out, just make the decision in an informed way and if you do choose to have them then continue to build strength slowly afterwards.

In reply to Clinger: Those Powerfinger things seem to have sorted mine out