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Journey to Ixtlan

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Does anybody know if Journey to Ixtlan (HVS 4c) down at Carn Gowla is a quick drying route and does it suffer from seepage at all?
Cheers!

Sam
 Jon Stewart 04 Nov 2015
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

Gowler in November - I like your style! Afraid I can't answer your question on JTI, but Carn Gowler and quick-drying aren't two phrases I associate with one another. Carn Gowler and morbid fear are though. The routes I've done there are heatwave options, and I wouldn't go anywhere near them outside those conditions.

Good luck and try not to die!
 GrahamD 04 Nov 2015
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

I don't know about quick drying but it's big, positive but only vaguely connected holds all the way. When we did it (a few Easters back) the final belay involved threading rabbit burrows
 Alex the Alex 04 Nov 2015
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

We did it a few springs back, and from what I remember the main part of the route actually takes one of the more exposed and possibly quick drying buttresses? The problem is as it is mostly one big traverse you tend to shuffle in and out of some of the darker, danker corners of the crag. My main concern though would be trusting the rock if it were a bit damp. It was like climbing on biscuit at times, and i know id much rather climb on dry biscuit than soggy... It is a cracking route, but maybe deserves saving til summer!
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Climbing indoors at this time of year is a bit like putting the heating on - waver as long as possible! Gowla has been on my list of places to go this year but just not that high hence why its been allocated to a mediocre weather weekend.. Thanks for your advice - we'll see what the weekend brings!

Sam
Post edited at 13:49
 Jon Stewart 04 Nov 2015
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

There is world of opportunities between the diametric extremes of Carn Gowler in November and indoors!
 oscaig 04 Nov 2015
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

Most of it should dry quite rapidly I'd guess. But when we did it, the last pitch (which regains the clifftop) was seeping and a bit damp in places, and that was at the end of a dry and sunny day with no rain in the day or two preceding. If you've got a grade or two in hand it should be fine but I seem to recall the damp, greasy area being towards an exposed and awkward bit of climbing near the top of the pitch. HTH
 Dave Williams 04 Nov 2015
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

I've only done it in the dry but I was once shown a photo taken of a leader by a second across what I believe is the 4th pitch during an ascent on a very stormy day. There was no rock to be seen between them, just a huge mass of white water presumably moving skywards. Apparently, virtually the whole route was p1ss wet through due to wave splash and both climbers ended up getting thoroughly soaked. So on the basis of this little anecdote I also think you'll be fine, especially if you've got a couple of grades in hand.
 Iain Peters 05 Nov 2015
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

> Does anybody know if Journey to Ixtlan (HVS 4c) down at Carn Gowla is a quick drying route and does it suffer from seepage at all?

It is and also one of the few routes that can be climbed in less than perfect conditions. I know! The holds are massive and actually apart from a few short non crucial sections remarkably solid. HVS 4c sums it up really. The grade reflects the wild situation rather than technical difficulty. You'll need some tape slings for threads and flakes. Rabbit holes properly threaded make superb belays! Gowla actually gets the afternoon sun. I did the FA of Hard Tack VS which Journey crosses in mid-winter and an early ascent of Mercury Direct on a fine late autumn afternoon. Choose a nice sunny day with a bit of wind to fluff up the waves and you'll be fine! Aprez Vous is another great route across a massive sea cave on good solid rock or Cave Wall Traverse at a more amenable Severe.
IMHO Gowla does not fully deserve its "morbid" reputation. There are excellent routes in every grade. Yes there are loose, unprotected and very serious climbs but that's equally true of Gogarth. Doesn't seem to put people off too much. Hopefully the new guide will show that there's something for all tastes and all seasons. Cheers. Iain.
PS. The brilliant wall climbs on C Buttress dry very quickly but probably not a good idea if there's a big sea running.


 Tom Last 06 Nov 2015
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

Dunno but I do know it's been lashing it down for the last couple of days and the forecast's not great. I doubt much hereabouts will be dry in the next couple of days either way. Good luck!
In reply to Tom Last:

Agreed. From where I am, I can see the rain over St Agnes beacon and it won't be shifting any time soon.

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