In reply to Samuel Wainwright:
> Does anybody know if
Journey to Ixtlan (HVS 4c) down at Carn Gowla is a quick drying route and does it suffer from seepage at all?
It is and also one of the few routes that can be climbed in less than perfect conditions. I know! The holds are massive and actually apart from a few short non crucial sections remarkably solid. HVS 4c sums it up really. The grade reflects the wild situation rather than technical difficulty. You'll need some tape slings for threads and flakes. Rabbit holes properly threaded make superb belays! Gowla actually gets the afternoon sun. I did the FA of Hard Tack VS which Journey crosses in mid-winter and an early ascent of Mercury Direct on a fine late autumn afternoon. Choose a nice sunny day with a bit of wind to fluff up the waves and you'll be fine! Aprez Vous is another great route across a massive sea cave on good solid rock or Cave Wall Traverse at a more amenable Severe.
IMHO Gowla does not fully deserve its "morbid" reputation. There are excellent routes in every grade. Yes there are loose, unprotected and very serious climbs but that's equally true of Gogarth. Doesn't seem to put people off too much. Hopefully the new guide will show that there's something for all tastes and all seasons. Cheers. Iain.
PS. The brilliant wall climbs on C Buttress dry very quickly but probably not a good idea if there's a big sea running.