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Hi
Just starting out on climbing, had one session so far.
I ordered some Axiom Evolve shoes from an online climbing store as they were advertised as a good all round shoe.
Their sizing guide advised me to get a size 9, as I am a normal size 8.
They have turned up today and I tried them on, they seem really tight, but as I have no experience, I was wondering how tight should they realistically be? They seem to squash my foot up and it hurts a bit down the side.
Is this normal and I just need to get used to wearing a different style of shoe than I am used to, or do these sound too tight, and I should send back for the next size up?
Thanks in advance.
Grabrail
Just starting out on climbing, had one session so far.
I ordered some Axiom Evolve shoes from an online climbing store as they were advertised as a good all round shoe.
Their sizing guide advised me to get a size 9, as I am a normal size 8.
They have turned up today and I tried them on, they seem really tight, but as I have no experience, I was wondering how tight should they realistically be? They seem to squash my foot up and it hurts a bit down the side.
Is this normal and I just need to get used to wearing a different style of shoe than I am used to, or do these sound too tight, and I should send back for the next size up?
Thanks in advance.
Grabrail
In reply to grabrail:
Some people climbing in the high grades recommend having very tight shoes. Ignore them!
You need shoes that are comfortable, so you can enjoy climbing. You don't need expensive shoes until you're experienced and have good footwork. Before that point you are completely wasting your money on anything more expensive than a half-decent all-round shoe, so I reckon those evolvs look like a good choice.
You always need to try on shoes before you buy. Some makes will fit your feet, others won't. The sizing varies a lot between brands, and even between different shoes of the same brand. Once you know what shoe fits in what size, you can order online (or better, get them second hand on here after someone like you buys them too tight and can't wear them - happens all the time, I never pay more than 40 quid for shoes!). Some people are cheap bastards who try them on in shops and then order online, which is just plain rude.
My advice is to try the size up in these ones if they'll let you, but in future get them in a store where you can try them on first. At some point down the line if you're trying hard overhanging boulder problems with tiny footholds you might want a pair of really tight, uncomfortable shoes, but until then I would stick to something that fits snugly (no bagginess) with your toes a bit squished in but not painfully so. If you're struggling to get them on, they are far too tight.
Some people climbing in the high grades recommend having very tight shoes. Ignore them!
You need shoes that are comfortable, so you can enjoy climbing. You don't need expensive shoes until you're experienced and have good footwork. Before that point you are completely wasting your money on anything more expensive than a half-decent all-round shoe, so I reckon those evolvs look like a good choice.
You always need to try on shoes before you buy. Some makes will fit your feet, others won't. The sizing varies a lot between brands, and even between different shoes of the same brand. Once you know what shoe fits in what size, you can order online (or better, get them second hand on here after someone like you buys them too tight and can't wear them - happens all the time, I never pay more than 40 quid for shoes!). Some people are cheap bastards who try them on in shops and then order online, which is just plain rude.
My advice is to try the size up in these ones if they'll let you, but in future get them in a store where you can try them on first. At some point down the line if you're trying hard overhanging boulder problems with tiny footholds you might want a pair of really tight, uncomfortable shoes, but until then I would stick to something that fits snugly (no bagginess) with your toes a bit squished in but not painfully so. If you're struggling to get them on, they are far too tight.
9
In reply to grabrail:
Feet are such individual things I would never suggest buying a first pair online. Return them and go into a store and try on lots, ignoring the size which is marked in them.
This is irrelevant - its how they feel to you that's important and different manufacturers have different shapes. As well as the obvious differences in the range.
Feet are such individual things I would never suggest buying a first pair online. Return them and go into a store and try on lots, ignoring the size which is marked in them.
This is irrelevant - its how they feel to you that's important and different manufacturers have different shapes. As well as the obvious differences in the range.
5
Thanks guys, hindsight is a wonderful thing. I didn't want to spend too much on my first pair, so got these for £40, which I thought was a bargain.
based on what has been said above I think these are definitely too tight. I will look to send them back and ask for the next size up.
Thanks once again
based on what has been said above I think these are definitely too tight. I will look to send them back and ask for the next size up.
Thanks once again
In reply to grabrail:
I like mine as tight as possible without making me cry but it's a personal preference
Should be tight enough whilst climbing, but if you don't need to immediately remove them after a climb they are too big
I'm a 9 but use 6.5 for 5.10s
I like mine as tight as possible without making me cry but it's a personal preference
Should be tight enough whilst climbing, but if you don't need to immediately remove them after a climb they are too big
I'm a 9 but use 6.5 for 5.10s
1
12
In reply to grabrail:
I'm going to contradict the consensus and say keep 'em; I've recently bought an identical pair (I suspect from the same online store) and they are a good shoe at a fantastic price. The size guide on the site has been set up quite consciencously and compares sizes across various brands so I reckon its about right.
Bear in mind that if you're economising, the cost of mailing stuff backwards and forwards is something you can do without.
Yes, if you've just started they will feel tight. I was advised to buy an 8.5 but I bought an 8 because I Am A Tough Guy. After 1 or 2 sessions I thought I had made a mistake but then I started to wear them for about 20 minutes bouldering, then 30 minutes a few days later, then 40 minutes, then for a whole leading session (you get the picture); it took 2 - 3 weeks but now I have no conception of them feeling tight. I feel that you would have a similar experience. In the climbing wall I mean, not on a multi-pitch climb outdoors lasting six hours.
One more thing; invest in some fancy toenail-clippers and keep them short.
I'm going to contradict the consensus and say keep 'em; I've recently bought an identical pair (I suspect from the same online store) and they are a good shoe at a fantastic price. The size guide on the site has been set up quite consciencously and compares sizes across various brands so I reckon its about right.
Bear in mind that if you're economising, the cost of mailing stuff backwards and forwards is something you can do without.
Yes, if you've just started they will feel tight. I was advised to buy an 8.5 but I bought an 8 because I Am A Tough Guy. After 1 or 2 sessions I thought I had made a mistake but then I started to wear them for about 20 minutes bouldering, then 30 minutes a few days later, then 40 minutes, then for a whole leading session (you get the picture); it took 2 - 3 weeks but now I have no conception of them feeling tight. I feel that you would have a similar experience. In the climbing wall I mean, not on a multi-pitch climb outdoors lasting six hours.
One more thing; invest in some fancy toenail-clippers and keep them short.
Post edited at 15:37
In reply to grabrail:
You want snug with no space rather than tight. The trick (the easy bit) is to get a pair that are like that now but will still be good in 3 months time and not feel like pair of wellies. Lined shoes tend to stretch much, much less than unlined shoes. As an example I have a pair of Sportiva Miura in size 40. My normal shoe size is 42. When I first put them on, at the time of purchase, they cramped my foot but are now, under most conditions, comfortable but still very effective. Last year in Kalymnos however my feet swelled so much that I had to buy a pair of spare shoes in my normal shoe size but I now need to wear a pair of socks with these even though they are lined and have not stretched.
The other bad thing that seems to happen is, just as you get to know what works, they stop making it. Very annoying as you have to start all over again.
Al
You want snug with no space rather than tight. The trick (the easy bit) is to get a pair that are like that now but will still be good in 3 months time and not feel like pair of wellies. Lined shoes tend to stretch much, much less than unlined shoes. As an example I have a pair of Sportiva Miura in size 40. My normal shoe size is 42. When I first put them on, at the time of purchase, they cramped my foot but are now, under most conditions, comfortable but still very effective. Last year in Kalymnos however my feet swelled so much that I had to buy a pair of spare shoes in my normal shoe size but I now need to wear a pair of socks with these even though they are lined and have not stretched.
The other bad thing that seems to happen is, just as you get to know what works, they stop making it. Very annoying as you have to start all over again.
Al
3
In reply to grabrail:
Agree with Grid (above) {I usually do!} - the trick is to get one that touches your foot everywhere but hurts it nowhere, and that you can wear for long periods.
To poster Graham: That's interesting Graham, but I have had 5.10's in 4 different models and take an 8 in the Spire (had 3 pairs of these), 9.5 in the Newton (had 4 pairs of these), 10 in both the Stonelands & Anasazi Brown. Thus my experience is that one's size is model specific, not manufacturer specific.
Agree with Grid (above) {I usually do!} - the trick is to get one that touches your foot everywhere but hurts it nowhere, and that you can wear for long periods.
To poster Graham: That's interesting Graham, but I have had 5.10's in 4 different models and take an 8 in the Spire (had 3 pairs of these), 9.5 in the Newton (had 4 pairs of these), 10 in both the Stonelands & Anasazi Brown. Thus my experience is that one's size is model specific, not manufacturer specific.
1
In reply to Graham Booth:
What a load of rubbish. 99% of all the climbers I know climb in agony half the time because of this ideology and CAN'T WAIT to get their shoes off the second they touch down. I thought this was supposed to be an enjoyable hobby?
My Red Chili Spirits fit like a glove. Tight, but because they actually FIT I can we wear them for many pitches and have no discomfort at all.
That being said I'm not a 9C boulderer doing 10ft dynos to tiny crimps so I can't speak for that demographic. But for all day chilled climbing get something that fits, not something that makes you want to get to the top only so you can take off your shoes...
> Should be tight enough whilst climbing, but if you don't need to immediately remove them after a climb they are too big
What a load of rubbish. 99% of all the climbers I know climb in agony half the time because of this ideology and CAN'T WAIT to get their shoes off the second they touch down. I thought this was supposed to be an enjoyable hobby?
My Red Chili Spirits fit like a glove. Tight, but because they actually FIT I can we wear them for many pitches and have no discomfort at all.
That being said I'm not a 9C boulderer doing 10ft dynos to tiny crimps so I can't speak for that demographic. But for all day chilled climbing get something that fits, not something that makes you want to get to the top only so you can take off your shoes...
5
In reply to grabrail:
If you get the next size up, you are still guessing. Get your money back ( 14 days rule/ distance selling law ).
Try some on in a real shop, As explained by others above ( and in the all day boot thread ) , shape and stiffness are as important as size.
> Is this normal and I just need to get used to wearing a different style of shoe than I am used to, or do these sound too tight, and I should send back for the next size up?
If you get the next size up, you are still guessing. Get your money back ( 14 days rule/ distance selling law ).
Try some on in a real shop, As explained by others above ( and in the all day boot thread ) , shape and stiffness are as important as size.
1
In reply to grabrail:
There's a few main things regarding the fit of a shoe:
- The amount of space in the shoe that doesn't touch your foot (this should be minimized, i.e. the heel cup should fit snugly and not bend). Your toes should be snug against the end (either flat [for extreme comfort] or slightly arched [for higher performance]). I started off with flat shoes, but found my climbing technique suffered (i.e. my footwork was crap) and went for slightly arched - which I'd recommend. A proper shop (not Go outdoors) will fit them for you.
- Leather will stretch significantly, synthetic will stretch very little. My first shoe was leather, and quickly became too big, my second was synthetic - and still fits perfectly. I'd recommend a synthetic as a result (very hard to tell how a leather shoe will "age" and if it will still fit or not). Synthetics smell a lot, so I'd also recommend wearing thin, non-stretchy socks with them. Nike do a special shaped foot sock that works perfect.
There's a few main things regarding the fit of a shoe:
- The amount of space in the shoe that doesn't touch your foot (this should be minimized, i.e. the heel cup should fit snugly and not bend). Your toes should be snug against the end (either flat [for extreme comfort] or slightly arched [for higher performance]). I started off with flat shoes, but found my climbing technique suffered (i.e. my footwork was crap) and went for slightly arched - which I'd recommend. A proper shop (not Go outdoors) will fit them for you.
- Leather will stretch significantly, synthetic will stretch very little. My first shoe was leather, and quickly became too big, my second was synthetic - and still fits perfectly. I'd recommend a synthetic as a result (very hard to tell how a leather shoe will "age" and if it will still fit or not). Synthetics smell a lot, so I'd also recommend wearing thin, non-stretchy socks with them. Nike do a special shaped foot sock that works perfect.
I went to our local climbing centre last night, and hired some of their shoes, they were Red Chillis and although tight, and slightly cramped my foot, they seemed to fit perfectly. These were a size 10.
I think have learned here what shoes should feel like when they are on, and I would say my Evolvs are way too small as they cause me pain. I will be returning them today and asking for the next size up.
Thanks for all the advice guys, and I will take a read of the All Day Boot Thread too.
I think have learned here what shoes should feel like when they are on, and I would say my Evolvs are way too small as they cause me pain. I will be returning them today and asking for the next size up.
Thanks for all the advice guys, and I will take a read of the All Day Boot Thread too.
In reply to Rick Graham:
>[...] Buy some a real shop, (thus increasing the chances of that shop being there next time you need to try boots on) As explained by others above ( and in the all day boot thread ) , shape and stiffness are as important as size.
Fixed
>[...] Buy some a real shop, (thus increasing the chances of that shop being there next time you need to try boots on) As explained by others above ( and in the all day boot thread ) , shape and stiffness are as important as size.
Fixed
1
In reply to grabrail:
A bit late to the thread... my advice falls somewhere in the middle. Shoes that don't 'press' your toes and cause you some discomfort will move around your toes/foot and will reduce the ability you will have to stand on smaller holds and will ultimately make it harder for you to trust your feet. This will hinder development of your technique and cause you to focus on making your arms do the work.
Loose, comfortable shoes will work just fine for the first few months. But if you want shoes to last... you need to go a little tighter in my opinion. I'd stick with what you've bought. You'll soon get used to them.
A bit late to the thread... my advice falls somewhere in the middle. Shoes that don't 'press' your toes and cause you some discomfort will move around your toes/foot and will reduce the ability you will have to stand on smaller holds and will ultimately make it harder for you to trust your feet. This will hinder development of your technique and cause you to focus on making your arms do the work.
Loose, comfortable shoes will work just fine for the first few months. But if you want shoes to last... you need to go a little tighter in my opinion. I'd stick with what you've bought. You'll soon get used to them.
2
In reply to grabrail:
Send them back and go to a shop to try some on, you will find that different manufacturers have a variety of foot lasts (shapes) and you need to find which one suits you best.
If you're only climbing indoor walls, then tightness shouldn't be a problem but, if you climb outdoors, you'll have them on for a long time and, as Jon has said, they need to be comfortable.
Your toes should touch the end, but not be deformed by the shoe and I have always worn socks with them for comfort and to reduce chemical warfare.
Send them back and go to a shop to try some on, you will find that different manufacturers have a variety of foot lasts (shapes) and you need to find which one suits you best.
If you're only climbing indoor walls, then tightness shouldn't be a problem but, if you climb outdoors, you'll have them on for a long time and, as Jon has said, they need to be comfortable.
Your toes should touch the end, but not be deformed by the shoe and I have always worn socks with them for comfort and to reduce chemical warfare.
In reply to grabrail:
I have a broad forefoot and Evolvs are way too narrow for me. Scarpa fit me perfectly. Try on as many as you can.
I have a broad forefoot and Evolvs are way too narrow for me. Scarpa fit me perfectly. Try on as many as you can.
In reply to grabrail:
Don't forget shoes stretch. Buy accordingly. A baggy pair of shoes will hurt your toes standing on them with no support just as much as an over tight pair.
Don't forget shoes stretch. Buy accordingly. A baggy pair of shoes will hurt your toes standing on them with no support just as much as an over tight pair.
Post edited at 12:00
In reply to zimpara:
True, but Evolvs (at least the synthetic upper ones) are reputed to stretch less than leather upper shoes. My shoes (Evolv Bandit SCs in a comfortable fit) break in but I don't really find they stretch very much at all.
> Don't forget shoes stretch. Buy accordingly. A baggy pair of shoes will hurt your toes standing on them with no support just as much as an over tight pair.
True, but Evolvs (at least the synthetic upper ones) are reputed to stretch less than leather upper shoes. My shoes (Evolv Bandit SCs in a comfortable fit) break in but I don't really find they stretch very much at all.
1
In reply to grabrail:
Watching this thread with interest. Wanted a more technical shoe for my second pair, mostly used for indoor bouldering. While my current Boreal Jokers a size up from my normal shoe size are comfy enough to wear all day, the Red Chili Matador laces from rock and run seemed a good deal at £39 down from £110.
According to the size guide I've got the correct ones, having bought in my normal shoe size (UK 8) for a category C shoe, however they aren't half uncomfortable! I know I've been spoilt having been climbing for months in an oversize pair of Jokers, but the downturn on these mean I can barely walk across the floor normally, I need to use the sides of my feet or if I try and flatten the sole at all I get excruciating pain along the tops of my toes as they're 'scrunched up' to fit in.
Everything I've read however suggests this is normal, it'll get better but I can't remember seeing anyone else waddling around the wall wincing, even in new shoes. Although all the size guides point to the Matadors needing to be the same size as my shoe size (or even dropping a shoe size for even more tech) I can't help but wonder if I've made a mistake.
Watching this thread with interest. Wanted a more technical shoe for my second pair, mostly used for indoor bouldering. While my current Boreal Jokers a size up from my normal shoe size are comfy enough to wear all day, the Red Chili Matador laces from rock and run seemed a good deal at £39 down from £110.
According to the size guide I've got the correct ones, having bought in my normal shoe size (UK 8) for a category C shoe, however they aren't half uncomfortable! I know I've been spoilt having been climbing for months in an oversize pair of Jokers, but the downturn on these mean I can barely walk across the floor normally, I need to use the sides of my feet or if I try and flatten the sole at all I get excruciating pain along the tops of my toes as they're 'scrunched up' to fit in.
Everything I've read however suggests this is normal, it'll get better but I can't remember seeing anyone else waddling around the wall wincing, even in new shoes. Although all the size guides point to the Matadors needing to be the same size as my shoe size (or even dropping a shoe size for even more tech) I can't help but wonder if I've made a mistake.
Well I sent my Evolvs back and asked for next size up, they turned up yesterday and they fit so much better. No looseness around the sides or heel. Toes are still slightly scrunched up but this is good, right?
Looking forward to getting on the wall to try them out.
Looking forward to getting on the wall to try them out.
1
In reply to grabrail:
Everyone has a different foot shape, so it really is essential that you get to a "bricks and mortar" shop and try on lots of models to find the best fit for your foot. Buying online is just a recipe for expensive postage charges and painful feet.
The shoe should with no air spaces, or pressure points. A common mistake is to keep going bigger to avoid pressure points and instead getting a big baggy wellie - if the shoe is the correct shape for your foot, you can go surprisingly snug without undue discomfort.
As for how tight, the shoe needs to be snug enough to avoid any rotation on your foot and TBH IMVHO any tighter is unnecessary. Do think about fitting with bent toes - when pulling on holds you will naturally crimp with your toes and having them pre-bent avoids getting a baggy toe area.
Also sizing can vary massively between different manufacturers (and even models). A good shop will be able to advise you on what sizes to try for an 8 foot and you may find yourself wearing anything from an EUR40 to a UK9, again don't worry about the size label, just concentrate on how it feels on your foot.
Everyone has a different foot shape, so it really is essential that you get to a "bricks and mortar" shop and try on lots of models to find the best fit for your foot. Buying online is just a recipe for expensive postage charges and painful feet.
The shoe should with no air spaces, or pressure points. A common mistake is to keep going bigger to avoid pressure points and instead getting a big baggy wellie - if the shoe is the correct shape for your foot, you can go surprisingly snug without undue discomfort.
As for how tight, the shoe needs to be snug enough to avoid any rotation on your foot and TBH IMVHO any tighter is unnecessary. Do think about fitting with bent toes - when pulling on holds you will naturally crimp with your toes and having them pre-bent avoids getting a baggy toe area.
Also sizing can vary massively between different manufacturers (and even models). A good shop will be able to advise you on what sizes to try for an 8 foot and you may find yourself wearing anything from an EUR40 to a UK9, again don't worry about the size label, just concentrate on how it feels on your foot.
2
In reply to grabrail and others: I just thought it might be worth sharing some objective data about my choice of shoes.
In the last eight weeks, I have climbed on 34 days, 9 days outdoors on a variety of crags and rock types and indoors 25 times at 5 different venues. In that time I have probably attempted 250+ indoor boulder problems mostly V2-V5 but probably a good 30+ of V6 and harder. I've also climbed a whole range of stuff outdoors including multiple E3s and an E4.
Only on TWO occasions in that time have I found that my really cheap, super comfy pair of Evolv Defys have not been good enough and that I needed really tight shoes. One occasion was at Raven Tor working Obscene Toilet (7c) which is not exactly beginner territory and the other was one V6 bloc with a tiny screw on foothold.
In short, there is just no point in wearing really tight shoes 100% of the time when in reality it is just 1% of the time when they are actually needed, especially indoors. Anyone advocating that approach to beginners or even intermediate climbers is a masochistic moron.
Unless you're spending your life insitu at Malham or Raven's Tor or are a V10+ bouldere, find the best-fitting and most comfortable shoe you can. Stick with that for day to day climbing and then in due course think about getting a different pair or a smaller size for that minority of time your comfy shoes are genuinely lacking. No one pair can be perfect for all types and styles of climbing so you might as well recognise that and in the long term plan to have different pairs that play to different strengths.
In the last eight weeks, I have climbed on 34 days, 9 days outdoors on a variety of crags and rock types and indoors 25 times at 5 different venues. In that time I have probably attempted 250+ indoor boulder problems mostly V2-V5 but probably a good 30+ of V6 and harder. I've also climbed a whole range of stuff outdoors including multiple E3s and an E4.
Only on TWO occasions in that time have I found that my really cheap, super comfy pair of Evolv Defys have not been good enough and that I needed really tight shoes. One occasion was at Raven Tor working Obscene Toilet (7c) which is not exactly beginner territory and the other was one V6 bloc with a tiny screw on foothold.
In short, there is just no point in wearing really tight shoes 100% of the time when in reality it is just 1% of the time when they are actually needed, especially indoors. Anyone advocating that approach to beginners or even intermediate climbers is a masochistic moron.
Unless you're spending your life insitu at Malham or Raven's Tor or are a V10+ bouldere, find the best-fitting and most comfortable shoe you can. Stick with that for day to day climbing and then in due course think about getting a different pair or a smaller size for that minority of time your comfy shoes are genuinely lacking. No one pair can be perfect for all types and styles of climbing so you might as well recognise that and in the long term plan to have different pairs that play to different strengths.
5
1
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
So who pressed the dislike button?
What was to dis like about that post?
So who pressed the dislike button?
What was to dis like about that post?
1
3
In reply to Rick Graham:
I pressed dislike.
While I don't disagree with the concept of having several pairs of shoes of varying levels of comfort, I thought the post smacked of 'I climb much harder than you in shit shoes so you should basically wear shit shoes all the time' without actually addressing *how* a 'best-fitting' pair of shoes should actually fit, which was the OP's original question. I thought JennyC's post was far, far more helpful to the OP.
I pressed dislike.
While I don't disagree with the concept of having several pairs of shoes of varying levels of comfort, I thought the post smacked of 'I climb much harder than you in shit shoes so you should basically wear shit shoes all the time' without actually addressing *how* a 'best-fitting' pair of shoes should actually fit, which was the OP's original question. I thought JennyC's post was far, far more helpful to the OP.
Post edited at 17:41
3
In reply to Quiddity:
Thanks for that.
I have pressed like on the last three posts ( not incl my own )
Thanks for that.
I have pressed like on the last three posts ( not incl my own )
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
You must have very strong feet. I've had a few pairs if defys and found them to be incredibly soft. Great for indoor bouldering and chumming about but far too soft for any climbing that involved standing around or small footholds.
I've also found evolv rubber to be poor compared to stealth or vibram.
You must have very strong feet. I've had a few pairs if defys and found them to be incredibly soft. Great for indoor bouldering and chumming about but far too soft for any climbing that involved standing around or small footholds.
I've also found evolv rubber to be poor compared to stealth or vibram.
1
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: They just fit me really really well (fairly narrow as anorher poster highlighted) and that 'straight out the box' comfort is exactly why I've used them for around 8 years. I've even stocked up on another pair as I've heard they may be discontinued.
I wear size 7, so they still have some stiffness but in the larger sizes the lack of support would be more pronounced. I agree with you, they are poor for tiny edges, but as per my post, I genuinely find that on 99% of indoor routes/blocs and 90+% of outdoor routes there really is not much advantage in having a shoe with a really high performance (i.e. tight) fit.
BTW how many pairs of shoes have you got on the go currently?
I wear size 7, so they still have some stiffness but in the larger sizes the lack of support would be more pronounced. I agree with you, they are poor for tiny edges, but as per my post, I genuinely find that on 99% of indoor routes/blocs and 90+% of outdoor routes there really is not much advantage in having a shoe with a really high performance (i.e. tight) fit.
BTW how many pairs of shoes have you got on the go currently?
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Maybe they just don't fit me very well. I preferred the slightly stiffer Valor, which I used on a trip to the States.
1 - Knackered, resoled Scarpa Vapour Velcros that I use indoors.
2 - Very comfy Scarpa Vapour Lace. Now on their 4th resole.
3 - Very Comfy Sportiva TC pros. My one shoe to rule them all. Hopefully will last many resoles.
4 - Ocun Ozone Plus - nearing the end of their life. Mainly used on grit.
5 - Ocun Ozone. For my hardest leads normally on limestone or slate.
6 - Old pair of rockjock, rarely used but great for alpine stuff.
7 - I've also got another pair of brand new Vapour Vs...
P.S: Don't tell my wife...
> They just fit me really really well (fairly narrow as anorher poster highlighted) and that 'straight out the box' comfort is exactly why I've used them for around 8 years. I've even stocked up on another pair as I've heard they may be discontinued.
Maybe they just don't fit me very well. I preferred the slightly stiffer Valor, which I used on a trip to the States.
> BTW how many pairs of shoes have you got on the go currently?
1 - Knackered, resoled Scarpa Vapour Velcros that I use indoors.
2 - Very comfy Scarpa Vapour Lace. Now on their 4th resole.
3 - Very Comfy Sportiva TC pros. My one shoe to rule them all. Hopefully will last many resoles.
4 - Ocun Ozone Plus - nearing the end of their life. Mainly used on grit.
5 - Ocun Ozone. For my hardest leads normally on limestone or slate.
6 - Old pair of rockjock, rarely used but great for alpine stuff.
7 - I've also got another pair of brand new Vapour Vs...
P.S: Don't tell my wife...
In reply to grabrail:
Wear them around your house continuously for a bit. If gangrene hasn't set in after an hour then they're probably too loose.
Wear them around your house continuously for a bit. If gangrene hasn't set in after an hour then they're probably too loose.
3
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Lol, I knew you'd have far more pairs than me.
I'm down to just the two pairs currently in use having finally given up on an older pair of Defy after the holes in the toes got to about 2cm wide.
1) Current pair of Defys.
1a) New spare pair of the same.
2) Evolv Pontas Lace.
I'm down to just the two pairs currently in use having finally given up on an older pair of Defy after the holes in the toes got to about 2cm wide.
1) Current pair of Defys.
1a) New spare pair of the same.
2) Evolv Pontas Lace.
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
In fairness two of the pairs came from work and probably wouldn't have been purchased otherwise (though I have been really impressed, with the fit, performance and build quality of Ocun shoes) and I'm not sure the rockjocks really count.
That would leave me with a far more manageable three pairs, but I imagine I'd have brought an additional pair of tight lace up of velcros.
I bet there are some on here who have, far, far more pairs of shoes than me...
In fairness two of the pairs came from work and probably wouldn't have been purchased otherwise (though I have been really impressed, with the fit, performance and build quality of Ocun shoes) and I'm not sure the rockjocks really count.
That would leave me with a far more manageable three pairs, but I imagine I'd have brought an additional pair of tight lace up of velcros.
I bet there are some on here who have, far, far more pairs of shoes than me...
In reply to grabrail:
Hi - there's a lot of talk, too much talk (U2ref) about shoe size. I think if you've bought shoes bigger than your "street size" of 8, I'd GUESS they are probably ok...tho it may be that the shape of that brand doesn't suit you. Try wearing around the house for 20 min at a time, if you can do that, all may be well. You are wearing them without socks, right? If climbing indoors, have a sneaky try of the wall's hire shoes if poss, or go toa climbing shop and try on some.
It is one area where a live shop really beats the internet - size number is only a starting point.
It's also true that some shoes are pretty uncomfy. I think that Boreal Jokers are very comfy indeed (I can wear them all day) so that's another option (I have Evolv Bandits for hardest climbs, but not so comfy, and Scarpa Vapours, bought smaller than street size, that I've rarely used).
Many climbers obsess about getting their feet into the tiniest shoes, but I get distracted by extreme foot pain and don't enjoy the climbing then! Long-term, you could also be looking at v deformed feet if you get really serious, so think on...
My final comment: my feet are slightly different sizes, so with the Jokers I wear a thin sock on one foot only. Has made a big difference to how secure I feel when climbing, without sacrificing comfort. Amazed more folk don't do this, and I do get comments cos it looks silly. But it works.
Hope this helps! If it turns out you've got the wrong size, you're not alone at - eBay is full of nearly-new shoes for sale!
Hi - there's a lot of talk, too much talk (U2ref) about shoe size. I think if you've bought shoes bigger than your "street size" of 8, I'd GUESS they are probably ok...tho it may be that the shape of that brand doesn't suit you. Try wearing around the house for 20 min at a time, if you can do that, all may be well. You are wearing them without socks, right? If climbing indoors, have a sneaky try of the wall's hire shoes if poss, or go toa climbing shop and try on some.
It is one area where a live shop really beats the internet - size number is only a starting point.
It's also true that some shoes are pretty uncomfy. I think that Boreal Jokers are very comfy indeed (I can wear them all day) so that's another option (I have Evolv Bandits for hardest climbs, but not so comfy, and Scarpa Vapours, bought smaller than street size, that I've rarely used).
Many climbers obsess about getting their feet into the tiniest shoes, but I get distracted by extreme foot pain and don't enjoy the climbing then! Long-term, you could also be looking at v deformed feet if you get really serious, so think on...
My final comment: my feet are slightly different sizes, so with the Jokers I wear a thin sock on one foot only. Has made a big difference to how secure I feel when climbing, without sacrificing comfort. Amazed more folk don't do this, and I do get comments cos it looks silly. But it works.
Hope this helps! If it turns out you've got the wrong size, you're not alone at - eBay is full of nearly-new shoes for sale!
1
In reply to BrendanO:
Just thought I'd update as your post seemed a direct reply to mine. Although the toe pain was excruciating at first with my new shoes (red chili matadors) even walking round the kitchen, I persevered and gradually wore them for longer periods around the house until they didn't hurt as much.
Then I took them to the wall and just put them on while climbing a tech problem and took them straight off again. A few sessions of doing this and I'm now at the stage I can leave them on and laced up between a few problems, and can even walk about in them without too much discomfort, though if I'm heading over the other side of the wall or having a long rest I'll take them off to give my feet a break.
Because of the downturn they still hurt if I jump off and have a heavy landing, but I'm hoping in time that will stretch out a bit too.
I think I'm only going to keep these shoes for the more tech boulder problems, and keep my Jokers for warming up, routes and everything else.
I'm not condoning squeezing into shoes that are too small for you as I've read a bit on the subject and it seems a bad idea, but if like me, you've bought some shoes in your street shoe size and are worried you've made a massive mistake and should've gone a size larger, then I'd encourage you to give them a try. It's not an easy process but my shoes are starting to feel snug rather than too tight and I can already appreciate the better power transfer through my toes on steep stuff. Although my Jokers are lovely to get back on they don't feel like climbing shoes at all now!
Just thought I'd update as your post seemed a direct reply to mine. Although the toe pain was excruciating at first with my new shoes (red chili matadors) even walking round the kitchen, I persevered and gradually wore them for longer periods around the house until they didn't hurt as much.
Then I took them to the wall and just put them on while climbing a tech problem and took them straight off again. A few sessions of doing this and I'm now at the stage I can leave them on and laced up between a few problems, and can even walk about in them without too much discomfort, though if I'm heading over the other side of the wall or having a long rest I'll take them off to give my feet a break.
Because of the downturn they still hurt if I jump off and have a heavy landing, but I'm hoping in time that will stretch out a bit too.
I think I'm only going to keep these shoes for the more tech boulder problems, and keep my Jokers for warming up, routes and everything else.
I'm not condoning squeezing into shoes that are too small for you as I've read a bit on the subject and it seems a bad idea, but if like me, you've bought some shoes in your street shoe size and are worried you've made a massive mistake and should've gone a size larger, then I'd encourage you to give them a try. It's not an easy process but my shoes are starting to feel snug rather than too tight and I can already appreciate the better power transfer through my toes on steep stuff. Although my Jokers are lovely to get back on they don't feel like climbing shoes at all now!
3
Tried my shoes out for the first time last night, and they were great.
We went bouldering for about an hour and half, and i was surprised how good they felt on the wall. They were a little tight, but I had been wearing them in the house to stretch them slightly, which is something I would highly recommend for new shoes.
By the end of the session, my big toes were killing me and I was struggling to walk in them. I put this down to first time use, toes need to get used to the cramped position, and me being generally unfit and new to climbing.
Thanks to all the comments and advice in this thread.
We went bouldering for about an hour and half, and i was surprised how good they felt on the wall. They were a little tight, but I had been wearing them in the house to stretch them slightly, which is something I would highly recommend for new shoes.
By the end of the session, my big toes were killing me and I was struggling to walk in them. I put this down to first time use, toes need to get used to the cramped position, and me being generally unfit and new to climbing.
Thanks to all the comments and advice in this thread.
1
In reply to grabrail:
Best to have two pairs.A tightish pair for rock that needs tight boots,with tiny footholds.As the uk has 6 months of winter,have a pair that will accommodate thickish socks,which will keep your feet warm.I have seen so many climbers in tight boots,no socks,wussing off home because their feet are freezing.
Best to have two pairs.A tightish pair for rock that needs tight boots,with tiny footholds.As the uk has 6 months of winter,have a pair that will accommodate thickish socks,which will keep your feet warm.I have seen so many climbers in tight boots,no socks,wussing off home because their feet are freezing.
1
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