UKC

Formula for New Canadian Ice Grading System

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mikebarter387 17 Nov 2015
So I have been getting a lot of questions about the exact formula for grading using the Picked Out (PO) floating grading system.
Well here is how it works. A full picked out grade is worth a .5 subtraction from the routes original grade. For example say you climbed Moonlight Gr4+ but it had a picked out PO-3 rating you would subtract ( 3 X -.5) + 4+ = 3 or other wise -1.5 + 4.5 = 3. So if you climber rainbow Serpent but it was in a PO-4 grading it would work out to -2 + 6 = GR4.
So to make it even simpler; Just be sure to remember that the PO grade is a negative grade that is to be subtracted from the grad in the guide book. This will give a better reference to the historical difficulty. To a certain point it compensates for the modern tools and screw and but’s a grade three climber jumping into the head space of a 1980’s climber.

PO-1 = - .5
PO-2 = - 1
PO-3 = -1.5
PO-4 = -2
PO-5 = -2.5

Now there can be a plus or minus grade to the PO grade for example a 2+. In this case the + grade is worth .25 but the difference goes to the house in this case the waterfall. so it would be rounded off to the lower PO grade. That way we will reduce sand bagging.
If you a snowboarder or boulder we have a youtube tutorial to help you with the math. So just one more example. Louise Falls is often PO-4 by mid season in reality is only a 2+. this is hard to believe but if your being honest with yourself and subtract the multi-pitch exposure it is no harder then climbing a ladder from bottom to the top.
There is a problem however. If we give something a PO-5 on something like “This House of Sky” which is only a three to start with. -2.5 + 3 = .5 . Is it possible to have grades this low in ice climbing. Now we are talking about the technical climbing with todays equipment. All I can say is that the forefathers of ice climbing in their wisdom saw fit to leave that buffer of Grades 1 to 2. They somehow knew that climbing would one day require the possibility of negative grading.




TL;DR One full PO grade is a minus.5 from the guidebook grade.
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 ColdWill 27 Nov 2015
In reply to mikebarter387:

Like it. This is brilliant and so true. Fearful Symmetry should just be called Symmetry after the first ascent of the season. Every body knows this though, I always ask when a route was climbed when someone sprays a bit, late/mid season = loose a grade.
Same in Scotland to some extent, if a route was climbed the day before and conditions are stable it's easier to find gear.
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