UKC

Hi all,

Just thought I would pick the UKC collectives brain.

I am going to be building a training board at home in the next few weeks and have a dillema. The space I have available is in the wife and my bedroom, if I follow the line of the roof the wall will fit in and not block anybof the wardrobes. However this will create an overhang of about 35 degree.

Is this too steep? The alternative is to block one wardrobe and partially block the second, but end up with an angle of about 48 degrees.

I am currently bouldering around 6b/+ after a few tried and have worked 6c+.

I am looking to mainly train endurance and finger strength, with a bit of core thrown in for good measure.

Cheers, Matt

In reply to Nordie_matt:

35 is pretty steep, 48 is ridiculous. Why not make it adjustable so it stows out of the way but is the angle you want in use?

jk

In reply to Nordie_matt:


Of the two I suspect building a wall in the bedroom will be easier.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Poorly worded! Just as well I didn't say I wanted to train fist jamming, would probably needed a different forum then!

In reply to jkarran:

The 35 & 48 are measured from the horizontal plane, to the hypotenuse (not sure on spelling/if that makes sense) so the 48 is less steep than the 35.

The space available is awkward to maneuver in, and once up it would be best to leave the wall in situ. So adjustable may be a problem

In reply to Nordie_matt:

Wow, that makes your board VERY steep. Do you ever (or aspire) to climb that kind of gradient outside?

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Never on rope, but have had a punt at a few very steep problems (definitely steeper than 45) as well killing myself on weed killer traverse (never did link it up )

In reply to Nordie_matt:





Given the above I would suggest only slightly overhanging with poor footholds (screw-ons or thin pieces of wood) and medium first - second finger joint sized holds for hands. Using poor footholds works your core in a very relevant way for climbing outside. Try to arrange the holds so they mirror each other on either side of the board so you can be doing mirror problems to work both left and right side of body equally.

In reply to shark:

Sounds good, but having looked at angles and lengths etc for the last hour, the largest angle I can achieve without losing floor space would be 52.5 degrees, to get 60 I am losing about 50cm of floor space :/

Is 52.5 still a bit steep?

In reply to Nordie_matt:

Dunno, bit without having a clue - could you have 2 angles? I.e. steeper by the cupboard, then shallower away from it? (or whatever). Doesn't need to be a single angle the whole wall

In reply to Nordie_matt:

Angles from vertical are more commonly used, you might cause less confusion using those. 37.5deg is pretty steep, 20-30deg is more reasonable.

If you make it adjustable you don't lose the floor space except when exercising. A friend of mine has an excellent, hugely adjustable wall that concertinas into a tiny shed. If you haven't got room to get in and adjust the angle before use do you really have room to climb?

jk

In reply to jkarran:
Cheers for clearing that up re: angles, I haven't bothered with trigonometry too much the last 15 years.

The reason the angle is dictated as much as it appears is due to the room being a loft room, so the frame of the wall was initially following the line of the roof.

Originally the measurements were going to be 238cm front uprights, 234cm for the hypotenuse (not sure if that is the right term in this context), meeting a 99cm back upright. The floor space between the front and back uprights would be 191cm

Floor space under the wall would be 191cm x 276cm.

Not too sure if that makes things more confusing? But I think then that give an angle of about 65 off vertical...

In reply to Nordie_matt:

Hi Matt,
I think I can picture what you have.
It sounds to me that you may be better to have a shorter vertical wall at the back and build independently of your sloping ceiling. You can then fix struts which secure the board to it. By doing this and keeping the top in the same place you will have a larger climbing surface and it will be less steep.
As has been said splitting the wall into 2 different angles can make it interesting and will give you an arête to play with where you change angles.
I have just built a wall like this in my garage which covers 3 sides of the back half of the garage.

Slopey footholds and reasonable handholds on a steepish wall would seem to suit the area you want to train, and make the longest circuit you can find.

Andy

In reply to Nordie_matt:

What do you know of the structure behind the decorative surface, do you know where the trusses are and were you planning to build off them or build a frame within the room to carry the wall?

Either way, what you're proposing, a very steep panel following the roofline and a big kick panel has a significant strength and a significant weakness. The good thing is you can very effectively vary the apparent steepness by raising or lowering your feet on the kick board. The downside is you will be limited to jugs and pinchy holds on the steep upper wall, moulded slopers will be way too slopey.

I'd consider a panel that hinges from the top and stows against the roof plus a small kick panel hinged to it (there are other good alternatives). Now you can lower the top hinged assembly so it sits on the vertical kick panel which itself sits on the floor giving say a 30deg wall plus 9" kick panel. Alternatively hinge the kick plate up out of the way and the whole thing lowers to the floor giving you a ~20deg wall. The hinge line with multiple hinges adds a lot of stiffness so you can build light. Best bet is draw a section out to scale, sketch in the angles you're interested in then try sketching some options or model it with snapped spaghetti and tape, however your brain works best.

You could build a very good lightweight wall in that space with minimal framing, the key is lots of hinge lines as they add stiffness (think of folded card) and variety. The cleverer/neater it stows away the less trouble you'll be in with your wife too!

jk

In reply to jkarran:

As it's a rented property I was planning on building it on a free-standing frame. I like the hinges idea, I will head back to the drawing board and try to work out how I can make it fit best

In reply to Andrew Wilson:

Sounds really good, but with a limited budget/space that I can take over, it will have wait until I have a bigger space/more cash

In reply to Nordie_matt:

Just so we're clear, when you confirmed this with the wife you didn't just ask her whether she'd like a large woodie in the bedroom did you?

In reply to Nordie_matt:

Along with the issues of floor space, crazy steep angles and cupboard blocking have you considered the filth issue? chalk, rubber, skin, sweat. not really what I'd want in the bedroom.


Well thinking about it, not the chalk.

In reply to gethin_allen:

Liquid chalk an option