In reply to crux_crusader:
Have two grades - an onsight grade and a redpoint (i.e. worked grade). If I were you, I'd onsight dozens and dozens of routes at F5, F6a, F6a+, etc. Build up a pyramid. Do this at different walls, if you can, and on different angles, e.g. overhanging jugfests to crimpy slabs/walls.
This mileage will improve you as a 'rounded' climber, albeit just inside. Additionally, it'll provide good warm-ups. At the end of an onsighting session, I'd have a project, say a 7a or 7a+ to top-rope/learn the moves. Best to do this in lots of sections, at first, then decrease the sections, i.e. link sections. Then lead. Remember a clip is a move (so learn the clips!) and you can have the first quickdraw pre-clipped when leading - so no worries about decking.
At the end of a project session (don't bore your belayer to death!), do some more onsighting to warm down and cos it's good for you.
After a few weeks, you'll have a very definite maximum onsight grade and redpoint grade. Then move the latter up first, followed by the former.
Next year, try to get outside, sport climbing. It's a whole different ballpark! At first, expect to drop several grades for onsighting. But you'll soon build back up again.
And then to trad climbing - which is even more different and another subject entirely.
Be patient. Don't get injured. Have fun. You've got all of your life to get better.
Mick
