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If you're good enough, daft enough, desperate enough or just plain weird...
...pretty much any route could be climbed in the rain, right?
But what about those routes which are pleasant enough, safe enough and easy enough to actually be enjoyable in bad weather: routes that are fun - rather than just tolerable - in the rain?
Can we make a list of UK routes that can be used to save a wet day and prevent a frustrating retreat to the cafe, pub or gear shop. They could be routes that are actually even more fun in bad weather than in good conditions (and should therefore really only be climbed when it's chucking it down!), or routes that simply stay dry in the rain.
I'll start with one of each from Snowdonia:
Lockwoods Chimney, VD, Clogwyn y Bustach
Hyll Drem Girdle, HVS 5a, Carreg y Hyll Drem
...pretty much any route could be climbed in the rain, right?
But what about those routes which are pleasant enough, safe enough and easy enough to actually be enjoyable in bad weather: routes that are fun - rather than just tolerable - in the rain?
Can we make a list of UK routes that can be used to save a wet day and prevent a frustrating retreat to the cafe, pub or gear shop. They could be routes that are actually even more fun in bad weather than in good conditions (and should therefore really only be climbed when it's chucking it down!), or routes that simply stay dry in the rain.
I'll start with one of each from Snowdonia:
Lockwoods Chimney, VD, Clogwyn y Bustach
Hyll Drem Girdle, HVS 5a, Carreg y Hyll Drem
In reply to A Random Climber:
Good call on the Hyll Drem Girdle, which really does stay dry most of the time, and is an excellent little route - soft for the grade too.
> If you're good enough, daft enough, desperate enough or just plain weird...
> ...pretty much any route could be climbed in the rain, right?
> But what about those routes which are pleasant enough, safe enough and easy enough to actually be enjoyable in bad weather: routes that are fun - rather than just tolerable - in the rain?
> Can we make a list of UK routes that can be used to save a wet day and prevent a frustrating retreat to the cafe, pub or gear shop. They could be routes that are actually even more fun in bad weather than in good conditions (and should therefore really only be climbed when it's chucking it down!), or routes that simply stay dry in the rain.
> I'll start with one of each from Snowdonia:
> Lockwoods Chimney, VD, Clogwyn y Bustach
> Hyll Drem Girdle, HVS 5a, Carreg y Hyll Drem
Good call on the Hyll Drem Girdle, which really does stay dry most of the time, and is an excellent little route - soft for the grade too.
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In reply to A Random Climber:
Welcome To The Cruise - Triple Overhang Buttress
Clachaig Gully
All sorts of things at Kilnsey - until the seepage sets in!
Welcome To The Cruise - Triple Overhang Buttress
Clachaig Gully
All sorts of things at Kilnsey - until the seepage sets in!
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In reply to JJL:
That's not a climb. And would be a miserable day out in the rain.
BAWS Crawl would be my suggestion.
> Snakes and ladders and tunnels
That's not a climb. And would be a miserable day out in the rain.
BAWS Crawl would be my suggestion.
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In reply to Smelly Fox:
No fun in the wet dude - goes against the thread remit!
So much more fun in the dry with rock boots on!
No fun in the wet dude - goes against the thread remit!
So much more fun in the dry with rock boots on!
In reply to A Random Climber:
At Tremadog Striptease VS often stays dry in al but the heaviest rain
As does the first pitch of Void to an insitu belay/abseil sling which makes a nice E1 5b
At Tremadog Striptease VS often stays dry in al but the heaviest rain
As does the first pitch of Void to an insitu belay/abseil sling which makes a nice E1 5b
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In reply to allarms:
Have you done it in the rain? The slab can feel necky when dry
> BAWS Crawl would be my suggestion.
Have you done it in the rain? The slab can feel necky when dry
In reply to A Random Climber:
It depends on how you define fun I guess. Most of it was wet when we did it and it was mostly category 1 fun, with some pitches category 2,
It depends on how you define fun I guess. Most of it was wet when we did it and it was mostly category 1 fun, with some pitches category 2,
In reply to A Random Climber:
Spider's Web at Gogarth, mostly undercover apart from a safe bit at the start and easy bit to finish.
Spider's Web at Gogarth, mostly undercover apart from a safe bit at the start and easy bit to finish.
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In reply to A Random Climber:
Milestone Buttress Direct, followed by a quick shuffle up the north ridge.
I did it on exactly such a day thirty years ago, and it remains a favourite climbing experience. We were in a largish visiting group, and everybody else had sacked the day off and kicked around 'Beris for hours, getting grumpy and bored.
What a day.
Milestone Buttress Direct, followed by a quick shuffle up the north ridge.
I did it on exactly such a day thirty years ago, and it remains a favourite climbing experience. We were in a largish visiting group, and everybody else had sacked the day off and kicked around 'Beris for hours, getting grumpy and bored.
What a day.
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In reply to allarms:
A little tetchy?
Sure it's not strictly a climb, but it's a grand day out in the wet
> That's not a climb. And would be a miserable day out in the rain.
> BAWS Crawl would be my suggestion.
A little tetchy?
Sure it's not strictly a climb, but it's a grand day out in the wet
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In reply to A Random Climber:
Can't say I'd recommend them as wet weather routes but I have enjoyed very rainy days on:
Gimmer Chimney - a friendly waterspout.
Fingal on Foinaven- being lost in the rain and fog is not an issue.
Cioch West and Crack of Doom on Skye in flashes of lightening and booming thunder.
Fionn Buttress - clean, rough gniess
Belle Vue Bastion - surprisingly, not much harder in the wet.
Devils Chimney at Idwal - surprisingly, about 5 grades harder in the wet.
Can't say I'd recommend them as wet weather routes but I have enjoyed very rainy days on:
Gimmer Chimney - a friendly waterspout.
Fingal on Foinaven- being lost in the rain and fog is not an issue.
Cioch West and Crack of Doom on Skye in flashes of lightening and booming thunder.
Fionn Buttress - clean, rough gniess
Belle Vue Bastion - surprisingly, not much harder in the wet.
Devils Chimney at Idwal - surprisingly, about 5 grades harder in the wet.
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In reply to A Random Climber:
Most routes on Heavy Duty wall at New Mills Torrs, or you could always traverse the bridge.
Most routes on Heavy Duty wall at New Mills Torrs, or you could always traverse the bridge.
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In reply to A Random Climber:
Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs - has to be really chucking it down to make climbing up the waterfall masochistic fun; if less rain then do something like Hope.
Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs - has to be really chucking it down to make climbing up the waterfall masochistic fun; if less rain then do something like Hope.
Post edited at 12:35
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In reply to A Random Climber:
I'd go for Corvus or, slightly more left field, Inside Route in Borrowdale. Also the long HVS at New Mills. In fact lots of stuff at New Mills
I'd go for Corvus or, slightly more left field, Inside Route in Borrowdale. Also the long HVS at New Mills. In fact lots of stuff at New Mills
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In reply to A Random Climber:
>But what about those routes which are pleasant enough, safe enough and easy enough to actually be enjoyable in bad weather: routes that are fun - rather than just tolerable - in the rain?
Most of the routes at Awesome Walls.
Sorry, someone had to say it...
>But what about those routes which are pleasant enough, safe enough and easy enough to actually be enjoyable in bad weather: routes that are fun - rather than just tolerable - in the rain?
Most of the routes at Awesome Walls.
Sorry, someone had to say it...
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In reply to A Random Climber:
Much of Wyndcliffe in the Wye Valley stays dry in moderate rain, when there are leaves on the trees, as the trees overhang the cliff. Not so good this time of the year though.
Much of Wyndcliffe in the Wye Valley stays dry in moderate rain, when there are leaves on the trees, as the trees overhang the cliff. Not so good this time of the year though.
In reply to A Random Climber:
If weather is from the west, then Vector stays mostly dry, judging by the amount of chalk on on that is never washed off! Corvus of course. Seamstress in the wet is another favourite, but definitely not Haytor where I copped out the other week.
If weather is from the west, then Vector stays mostly dry, judging by the amount of chalk on on that is never washed off! Corvus of course. Seamstress in the wet is another favourite, but definitely not Haytor where I copped out the other week.
Post edited at 19:34
In reply to A Random Climber:
One that can be fun (for a given definition of fun) in the rain is Troutdale Pinnacle. The crux in wet weather was, from memory, getting up the small wall after you've traversed across the slab beneath the sloping roof. As I reached up, water poured down into my sleeve making me both cold and very wet. But it went well enough otherwise.
Second the recommendation of Cioch West, which we did in all manner of foul weather. More pleasant is Slick on Clogwyn yr Oen, which has just sufficient positive holds to make it enjoyable though the pitch for which it is named can provoke thought as the rain slips down it.
T.
One that can be fun (for a given definition of fun) in the rain is Troutdale Pinnacle. The crux in wet weather was, from memory, getting up the small wall after you've traversed across the slab beneath the sloping roof. As I reached up, water poured down into my sleeve making me both cold and very wet. But it went well enough otherwise.
Second the recommendation of Cioch West, which we did in all manner of foul weather. More pleasant is Slick on Clogwyn yr Oen, which has just sufficient positive holds to make it enjoyable though the pitch for which it is named can provoke thought as the rain slips down it.
T.
alien world in Pembroke. Great adventure where you won't feel the rain until pitch 4. Although you might get wet swimming to the bottom of it. Take a dry bag
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In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Wouldn't go there in the wet. A joy when dry, though.
Mick
> More pleasant is Slick on Clogwyn yr Oen, which has just sufficient positive holds to make it enjoyable though the pitch for which it is named can provoke thought as the rain slips down it.
Wouldn't go there in the wet. A joy when dry, though.
Mick
Post edited at 20:59
In reply to A Random Climber:
Lot of scope on Raven Crag Langdale
middlefell butress, easiest and possibly best option,
in general a good idea to take approach shoes for descent or go up and round
Lot of scope on Raven Crag Langdale
middlefell butress, easiest and possibly best option,
in general a good idea to take approach shoes for descent or go up and round
In reply to A Random Climber:
How about including climbs that are usually wet, so climbing them in real rain just adds to the excitement (bring a snorkel):
Clachaig Gully
Great Gully (Craig yr Ysfa)
Devil's Staircase (Idwal)
How about including climbs that are usually wet, so climbing them in real rain just adds to the excitement (bring a snorkel):
Clachaig Gully
Great Gully (Craig yr Ysfa)
Devil's Staircase (Idwal)
In reply to petegunn:
This could be me! I've lead this in pissing down conditions with a neon pink Edelweiss Performance and it's the first time I've had to abseil on a soaking wet rope. Brilliant day until half of the quarry fell down underneath us as we were climbing the 2 ladders up to Australia. Better during the daytime though, done it a few times in tshirt weather and it makes for a great time.
This could be me! I've lead this in pissing down conditions with a neon pink Edelweiss Performance and it's the first time I've had to abseil on a soaking wet rope. Brilliant day until half of the quarry fell down underneath us as we were climbing the 2 ladders up to Australia. Better during the daytime though, done it a few times in tshirt weather and it makes for a great time.
In reply to A Random Climber:
Chee Dale Girdle is better in the rain as you dont hinder those coming up the routes as you cross them.
Chee Dale Girdle is better in the rain as you dont hinder those coming up the routes as you cross them.
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In reply to A Random Climber:
Doesn't stay as dry as the stuff under the viaduct, but Alcove crack (HVS) at New Mills on the far left of the crag is brilliant in the rain! Big holds, good gear & ever so slighlty overhanging
Doesn't stay as dry as the stuff under the viaduct, but Alcove crack (HVS) at New Mills on the far left of the crag is brilliant in the rain! Big holds, good gear & ever so slighlty overhanging
In reply to Justsomeclimber:
Alcove crack was the one I was trying to remember up thread ! Its a pretty good route even without the escape from the rain factor.
Alcove crack was the one I was trying to remember up thread ! Its a pretty good route even without the escape from the rain factor.
In reply to A Random Climber:
You can't beat a good chimney so its got to be Chasm Route (VD)
Requires wind, rain and a whole lot of banter!
In Scotland in summer Savage Slit or Deep Cut Chimney is also great fun!
You can't beat a good chimney so its got to be Chasm Route (VD)
Requires wind, rain and a whole lot of banter!
In Scotland in summer Savage Slit or Deep Cut Chimney is also great fun!
Post edited at 15:37
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In reply to A Random Climber:
Snakes, ladders and tunnels. Not strictly a route. But a quality wet weather adventure
Snakes, ladders and tunnels. Not strictly a route. But a quality wet weather adventure
In reply to A Random Climber:
Ordinary Route, Idwal Slabs. The closest you'll get to uphill canyoning out of a stream.....
Ordinary Route, Idwal Slabs. The closest you'll get to uphill canyoning out of a stream.....
In reply to Trangia:
Did that on a very wet day once. It was like being a salmon going up a fish ladder.
T.
Did that on a very wet day once. It was like being a salmon going up a fish ladder.
T.
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In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Love it! Perfect description.....
> Did that on a very wet day once. It was like being a salmon going up a fish ladder.
> T.
Love it! Perfect description.....
In reply to A Random Climber:
No. Especially if it's on porous rock. People can do what they like in the mountains as far as I'm concerned but it'll be a disgrace if anybody suggests adding grit and sandstone to this list.
I'm not trying to be a killjoy but climbing isn't a wet weather sport. A day smashing routes indoors will be so much better for your climbing than trashing a classic route in the rain.
> ...pretty much any route could be climbed in the rain, right?
No. Especially if it's on porous rock. People can do what they like in the mountains as far as I'm concerned but it'll be a disgrace if anybody suggests adding grit and sandstone to this list.
I'm not trying to be a killjoy but climbing isn't a wet weather sport. A day smashing routes indoors will be so much better for your climbing than trashing a classic route in the rain.
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In reply to MischaHY:
Er yes, pretty much any route could be climbed in the rain but some routes wouldn't be. Obviously.
You're being pedantic to consider raising this soft-rock argument - that's not the point of the thread mate. Please don't patronise us. And yes, you are being a killjoy by suggesting it. No-one dreams of trashing such routes, so credit the posters on this thread with a modicum of intelligence.
Go back to your plastic!
Anyway, can anyone else suggest any more fun routes in the rain?
Er yes, pretty much any route could be climbed in the rain but some routes wouldn't be. Obviously.
You're being pedantic to consider raising this soft-rock argument - that's not the point of the thread mate. Please don't patronise us. And yes, you are being a killjoy by suggesting it. No-one dreams of trashing such routes, so credit the posters on this thread with a modicum of intelligence.
Go back to your plastic!
Anyway, can anyone else suggest any more fun routes in the rain?
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In reply to A Random Climber:
Quiver Rib, a diff on thre east face of Aonach Dubh goes in the wet; some of the holds are so large and bucket-like that they'll probably still have water in them in a very dry spell. Some great positions on pitch two as well.
T.
Quiver Rib, a diff on thre east face of Aonach Dubh goes in the wet; some of the holds are so large and bucket-like that they'll probably still have water in them in a very dry spell. Some great positions on pitch two as well.
T.
In reply to A Random Climber:
Oh, grow up. As if anything remotely hard could be climbed in wet weather. If you think otherwise you're obviously deluded.
And soft rock is a problem that has resulted in the damaging of several routes and boulders in the past, so hardly 'pedantic'.
Like I say, do what you like - just don't trash the classics.
I would go back to the plastic but I'm training on the system board today and it's all wood.
Oh, grow up. As if anything remotely hard could be climbed in wet weather. If you think otherwise you're obviously deluded.
And soft rock is a problem that has resulted in the damaging of several routes and boulders in the past, so hardly 'pedantic'.
Like I say, do what you like - just don't trash the classics.
I would go back to the plastic but I'm training on the system board today and it's all wood.
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