UKC

Are there any reasons why you shouldn't use a climbing wall style draw for the first draw of sports routes/to lower the first person from a sports route?

Inspired by GridNorth's thread regarding revolver carabiners (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=629017)

In reply to Juan S:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=629031

Might qualify for this thread?

There are no rules or laws, just accept the risk of whatever you choose to use

Generally the reason different quick draws are used outside ia that they need to be carried and so are lighter.
Indoor draws are just as safe if not stronger.

In reply to Juan S:

Steel crabs outdoors?

Whatever next!?

In reply to Juan S:

Sounds dangerous to me

In reply to Trangia:



Drilled-out nuts and washing line? Everything goes in cycles.

In reply to Juan S:
Reading rock and ice magazine I see some crags in the USA are being equipped with "perma-draws", steel carabiners linked by swaged steel wire.
This is in response to ropes getting cut by worn carabiners with sharp edges (often at the first bolt).
I can't see this happening here, it's visually obtrusive and someone would probably steal them.

In reply to jimtitt:

Serves me right for not proofreading what I write. I guess I should have asked whether weight was the only downside. The upside obviously being money . I was thinking of getting a few for when I go out with beginners who like to top-rope a lot of routes, as I've had to replace a bunch of draws recently due to wear from the rope.

In reply to Juan S:

I use a steel krab for my grigri, having got bored with having to replace knackered alloy ones.

Do people use softer alloy or thinner anodising these days? I have an old HMS krab that I used for my belay device for years in the 90s and it's barely marked: I have modern ones that have had major grooves within a couple of years. Otoh i mostly did trad climbing in the UK in the 90s, so not much lowering or abbing. Nowadays I mostly do sport climbs and alpine multipitch with lots of lowering & abbing, so maybe that's the difference.

In reply to Juan S:

I iz usin 1s jackd from da Castle innit. Seem sound 2me. Heavy dough.

In reply to Juan S:

Biners cost about 3 quid.