UKC

Lately I've been experiencing wildly different hang times on my beastmaker board during training sessions. The atmosphere is the same temperature and I'm only fingerboarding when fresh. I think the problem is down to having quite glassy skin on some days. Has anybody else had this problem? It's really frustrating and difficult to achieve any consistancy with my training. I've read a few posts where people have found their wooden boards to experience an increase in friction when used, so I'm doubting that the board is the culprit. Any ideas welcomed.

In reply to robhowell:

If you've got glassy skin just run a skin file gently over your tips pre session. Should get rid of it.

In reply to robhowell:

Spit on your fingers and give them a good rub before each hang - should improve contact friction.

In reply to robhowell:
I find giving the slopers a brush along the length of the board between sets makes a difference

In reply to robhowell:

Thanks guys, will gives those suggestions a try.

In reply to robhowell:



My experience suggests that it's not so much temperature but humidity that influences grip , although obviously the two are related. Could you measure that? I have no idea what the underlying mechanism might be though.

In reply to robhowell:

I definitely suffer from glassy skin. Seems to be intermittent and doesn't really cause a problem when I manage to climb on rock on a regular basis. I've found the best solution is to use a file or sandpaper to give your fingers a general rub over. Seems to take away the glassy smoothness that causes a problem.

Hope this helps.

In reply to robhowell:

james1978 is right - spit works well for glassy skin

To cover all the bases

- Wash your hands and scrub fingers with a nail brush before the session to get all grease off
- Spit and chalk to break skin up
- Cool fingers in front a fan
- Vigorously brush the holds between hangs
- Try friction labs expensive chalk

In reply to shark:

Awesome, thanks all.

In reply to robhowell:

Just an update for anyone reading this thread in future, after trying all of the above I found a significant increase in friction on my Beastmaker board, which has enabled far more consistent training. Thanks again for the ideas.