UKC

I need to replace my Patagonia Mixmasters with some new trousers for winter climbing. I mainly lean toward mixed routes so they need to be durable. I also don't carry waterproof trousers so they should be fast drying and pretty water resistant (although I am reluctant to go for something with a membrane as I run warm).

I really liked the mixmasters as insulated softshell type trousers with vents for walk ins. Even when they got a bit wet they were warm and dried off really fast.

Anyone have any recommendations for something that fits the bill?

I noticed the Montane Terra Thermo Guide pants which look fairly similar to the Mixmasters, albeit, less insulated but I could use them with thin thermal leggings. Does anyone have any experience of these or with Pertex Equilibrium Stretch (the main fabric they use)?

In reply to Brian Pollock:

I don't think pertex equilibrium will be anywhere near as water resistant as your mixmasters, which had each fibre encapsulated in a coating to stop them absorbing moisture. It's what they use on Rab vapour rise isn't it? That is very good at wicking moisture away but will get wet wet wet in contact with slushy snow.

In reply to Brian Pollock:

The Montane Sabretooth pants are far superior if you can find a pair. All the best winter gear gets discontinued after one season (see Patagonia R1, now happily restored).

In reply to BnB:

I'd love to know what Montane were thinking re: the Sabretooth pants. I checked out a pair and liked them but waited to pick them up in a sale only for them to vanish off the face of the earth.

In reply to nathan79:

They're (for me) a perfect balance of weatherproofing and breathability. And they cinch so well over the boot at the ankle that gaiters are redundant.

In reply to BnB:

Are the Rab Calibre trousers similar?

In reply to Brian Pollock:

Similar but with a slimmer cut and better crampon protection. Those look rather good.

I spent ages trying on softshell pants a the start of last winter.

Almost none of the big brands have insulated versions, as far as I could see.

I ended up going for Haglofs Rando Flex - good tough, stretchy water resistant material, side vents, braces (I like them) and ski-boot compatible cuffs. The waist is a little roomy for me in a medium, but it has good built in belt so it's not too bad. (I'm 6" with 31" waist)

http://www.haglofs.com/gb/en/Pants/RANDO-FLEX-PANT-MEN/p/602224.2AT

I remember also trying on some Arc'teryx pants which didn't have vents, or braces and wouldn't fit over ski boots, but overall had a better cut. Can't remember which ones unfortunately.

Patagonia's new version of the backcountry guide (which I was replacing, basically an unlined mixmaster) was truly awful - baggy and had far too much fully waterproof material - more like a hard shell with some soft shell stretch panels.

I have a Montane Alpine Stretch which I got for Scottish "summer" rock climbing but wore it on the Ben the other day in wind/snow/rain and it did better than expected - not *quite* as weatherproof as my patagnoia ascentionist jacket, or the haglofs pants but not far off.

A agree with othwrs that Pertex Equilibrium might be too lightweight for winter trousers. (I have used a jacket with it for years, again for summer rock climbing, and really like the material - just not weather proof enough.

Have you looked at the ME Ibex? Cheap as chips.

These could be good: http://www.outdoorresearch.com/en/mens-cirque-pants.html


P.S. I always have leggings underneath - thin baselayer style for less brutally cold days, stretch fleece for colder days.

In reply to Fultonius:
Thanks for the advice.

For anyone that's interested, I tried on a couple of the options discussed above, namely, rab calibre and OR cirque.

They both had a good cut for climbing with a good taper at the ankle using zips or drawcords or both to reduce / increase volume. The Rab cut was slightly better as the OR trousers I could see being slightly too tight around the thighs for some, but good.

The OR trousers had better features overall (i.e. loops for braces, velcro waist adjuster tabs so you don't need a belt, lace hooks, grommets for attaching shock cord round your boots, draw cord and zip cuff, more pockets (though hand pockets are very small)). Rab trousers weren't bad but I don't think they had brace loops, they have no lace hooks and the attachments for shock cord at ankle are just fabric loops though probably fine.

Obviously the Rab trousers have a membrane and the OR trousers don't. I would have thought the Rabs would be tougher but they actually felt pretty soft and, apart from the reinforced bits on the inside leg and knee, you could probably put a few holes in them. The OR trousers feel pretty bomb-proof, very stretchy and I reckon they would take some abuse.

Overall, on initial impressions, the OR Cirque feel like a better option for Scottish winter climbing unless you really want a membrane. They are also cheaper and I don't feel like the Rab Calibre really merit the hefty price tag.

I will probably go for the OR Cirque but I want to try on a pair of Patagonia Alpine Guides first as they seem to be about at tough as you can get, which is mostly what I'm after.