UKC

I am keen to get a 3 or 4 day trip away somewhere , probably March / April 2016. I like big multi pitch stuff , and whilst I am essentially a trad climber, bolts go well on this type of climb as you can climb and gain height quickly. Just looking for long pleasant romps, nothing too hard, probably around VS. I have been on the Penon, Puig Campana and Sa Gubia, several times on each, and really enjoyed it. So where else is similar? Not sure where to go next, for a change. I am not keen on Verdon, although it would doubtless be very good.
Because it is a relatively short trip, don't want to spend hours and hours driving / walking into the crag, also the post climb bar, cold beers, nice seafood, Mediterranean cuisine etc is very important! Hence Alicante / Costa Blanca, Palma / Sa Gubia works so well. So anybody got any suggestions - Sardinia, Italy?
Any comments welcome, ta....

In reply to HappyTrundler:

Villanova de Meaya or how ever it is spelled. A tad north for Lleida. Mostly mixed protection as far as I know.

A bunch of other full trad multipitch around there as well.

Another option might be Arco and especially all the stuff in Sarca Valley. Should already be warm enough.

Majority of the classic Plaisir routes will still be buried under snow in the proper alps though.

In reply to HeMa:

Sarcatal definitely meets the spec and should be no problem with climate in March/April.

Probably lots of great stuff on Sardinia too, but quite spread out and likely to require a fair bit of driving around.

In reply to HappyTrundler:

Oh, even Montserrat just outside of Barcelona has some interesting (semi) bolted multibitch stuff... But buyers beware though, some bolting is interesting to say the least (and still might not have any place for gear either).

And if you'll be climbing around Lleida, then it's a nice stop on the way there or the way back.

In reply to HappyTrundler:

I can second HeMa re Vilanova de Meia, especially since it now has a direct connection (on tarmac) to Terradets. Loads and loads to go at. Necronomicon, for instance, on the shorter right hand end of Roca dels Arc, is 4 pitches and 3* and has the best sport pitch I've ever done!
Drawback comes in the sybaritic department - it's not on the Med, and isn't really a jolly holiday area so a bit short in the gaity and café society departments. Having said that, the local bar gets very exciting when the Madrid/Barca match is on telly, and it's a short drive to town for a decent restaurant.
The local "climber's bar" type doss is the quaintest place I've ever stayed, though I understand there are better choices these days.

In reply to Martin Bennett:
Which route now connects Vilanova directly to Terradets on tarmac ?

In reply to HappyTrundler:

Lots of great long multi pitch routes in Paklenica. (Some of the routes are quite hard for the given grade though)

Sardinia might be a good option too, although generally most of the stuff we did was a bit shorter, and the climbing areas are quite spaced out.

Lots of amazing long multi-pitch in Corsica including some trad, but it's a bit higher so might be a bit chilly in April.

Check out Sicily, some big multi pitch sport there at near sea level up in the NW. Not sure about the weather. In reply to HappyTrundler:

In reply to IPPurewater:

It's too long ago to describe it to you, but I recall the first time we drove from one to the other it was a dirt road so pretty slow. Not that bad mind - we did it twice in the week so not too onerous obviously. A couple of years later we went back and - lo and behold - they'd tarmac'd it. Happy days.
This would be about 15 years ago. it comes out somewhere to the North of Terradets Gorge. I wish I could remember the name of the village we diverted to off that road that provided us with one of the most bizarre post climbing beer stops I've ever experienced. Gothic, it was!

In reply to Martin Bennett:

I believe it's this road...
https://goo.gl/maps/Lhs86W3XSoE2

Keep in mind though, that while it is indeed tarmac... it's still quite narrow and at places full of holes.

A better road from Terradets to Meia goes via Termps and Artesa de Segre... It's much longer though.

In reply to HappyTrundler:

I enjoyed Surtana on Sardinia.

In reply to HappyTrundler:

Flights to Marseille would bring you close enough to Le Grand Parcours, Mt St Victoire. 17 pitches.

Le Grand Parcours (5c)

Dave

In reply to HappyTrundler:

some 5+ pitch stuff in Montserrat. Furnicular up to the base of the climbs, back to barcalona for seafood dinner and get your stuff nicked on Las Ramblas whilst drunk.

In reply to HappyTrundler:

Still in the Costa Blanca area but feeling very different, the Murcia region has some interesting (brilliant!) multi pitch, particularly Leyva, which contrasts well with the routes around Redovan/Orihuela.

In reply to HappyTrundler:

Vilanova de Meia (Meya) is a great site and one of the best for multi-pitch in the Lleida zone. The grades (or style) are hard, so you can add at least a plus to those stated.

If you're in this area and want a change from Vilanova / Terradets then there are many multi-pitch in the Collegats gorge - perhaps with a stronger trad bias.

http://lanochedelloro.com/resencata/lleid_colle1.html

Some spanish would be handy but the topos are mostly self-explanatory. A local guidebook gives further comprehensive cover (spanish).