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Following on from the best climbs thread, what is the single most scary thing you have ever done on rock? (and lived !). Just one entry each please.
Mine: Lands End long jump. No protection, just had to go for it
Post edited at 09:33
2
In reply to Trangia:
Respect. I looked at it recently and climbed round without even hesitating!
> Mine: Lands End long jump. No protection, just had to go for it
Respect. I looked at it recently and climbed round without even hesitating!
2
In reply to Trangia: Froggatt Pinnacle to the ground. No broken bones but a lot of pain and bruises. Nearly fell backwards into the gully!
Look at it every time I go there and think "What a f***ing idiot!"
Look at it every time I go there and think "What a f***ing idiot!"
1
In reply to johncook:
Do you mean Cook's leap? I did it with no ill effects when egged on by Les Ainsworth.
Do you mean Cook's leap? I did it with no ill effects when egged on by Les Ainsworth.
2
In reply to Trangia:
My first HVS lead, Secretaries' Super Direct (HVS) on Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis. Run out slab a long, long way above a small cam. Could feel myself peeling off as I finally summoned up the courage to make the crucial move.
A vastly more experienced friend reckoned it was an E2 sandbag. Don't know about that, but it was certainly a baptism of fire.
My first HVS lead, Secretaries' Super Direct (HVS) on Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis. Run out slab a long, long way above a small cam. Could feel myself peeling off as I finally summoned up the courage to make the crucial move.
A vastly more experienced friend reckoned it was an E2 sandbag. Don't know about that, but it was certainly a baptism of fire.
3
In reply to Trangia:
Foot slipped at the end of the runout on Dire Straights at Diabaig. Thought I was going for a BIG ride.
It was E1 in the guidebook at the time, but is far more runout and definitely no easier than the Pillar.
Foot slipped at the end of the runout on Dire Straights at Diabaig. Thought I was going for a BIG ride.
It was E1 in the guidebook at the time, but is far more runout and definitely no easier than the Pillar.
1
In reply to Trangia:
Before I even called myself a climber, as a teenager, I used to walk the dog along the bottom of the local cliffs in Dunbar. Each cove has a path out, but there was one bit where, half way out, of the tide was wrong you couldn't get any further. I worked out a way of scrambling up what I now call a slab, traversing across a vertical section then moving up another slab. The dog would swim round and I would come down next path and we'd continue on. One day, after about a year of doing this, the key handhold on the traverse came away in my hand. I remember looking down to make sure it didn't hit the dog as I dropped it and realising for the first time how high up I was (probably 'only' 15 metres, but with the tide coming in and only a dog for company, aged about 15, that's a lot). There was no way I could reverse what I'd done so I had no option but to use the hole the hold has left as a handhold and keep going. I never did it again, but I stood under it on New Years Day this year. If it had gear, it would make a chossy diff, with the most difficult bit being the first slab. But it has no gear, and I was soloing in trainers, with only a labrador as a spotter. Nothing since has been so scary.
Before I even called myself a climber, as a teenager, I used to walk the dog along the bottom of the local cliffs in Dunbar. Each cove has a path out, but there was one bit where, half way out, of the tide was wrong you couldn't get any further. I worked out a way of scrambling up what I now call a slab, traversing across a vertical section then moving up another slab. The dog would swim round and I would come down next path and we'd continue on. One day, after about a year of doing this, the key handhold on the traverse came away in my hand. I remember looking down to make sure it didn't hit the dog as I dropped it and realising for the first time how high up I was (probably 'only' 15 metres, but with the tide coming in and only a dog for company, aged about 15, that's a lot). There was no way I could reverse what I'd done so I had no option but to use the hole the hold has left as a handhold and keep going. I never did it again, but I stood under it on New Years Day this year. If it had gear, it would make a chossy diff, with the most difficult bit being the first slab. But it has no gear, and I was soloing in trainers, with only a labrador as a spotter. Nothing since has been so scary.
Post edited at 10:52
18
In reply to Trangia:
Solstice Direct (E2 5c)
A big pre-crux (albeit not an especially hard crux) ledge a good way above gear. Plenty of time to contemplate life. Also if the gear behind the infamous "wobbly" flake were to blow, you would probably become quickly acquainted with the ground.
Solstice Direct (E2 5c)
A big pre-crux (albeit not an especially hard crux) ledge a good way above gear. Plenty of time to contemplate life. Also if the gear behind the infamous "wobbly" flake were to blow, you would probably become quickly acquainted with the ground.
In reply to Trangia:
Silica at Stanage. In my guide it was HVS 5c and I thought it must be a hard, well protected pull onto the slab, then easy padding up the arete. *Wrong*
Silica at Stanage. In my guide it was HVS 5c and I thought it must be a hard, well protected pull onto the slab, then easy padding up the arete. *Wrong*
2
In reply to Trangia:
Primate (E2 5b) - E2 - Gogarth South Stack
This nearly had me in tears, never in my life been so gripped climbing.
Primate (E2 5b) - E2 - Gogarth South Stack
This nearly had me in tears, never in my life been so gripped climbing.
1
In reply to Trangia:
I did once scare myself silly winter climbing on Craig Lloer but on rock?
This:
Big Business (E3 5b)
I did once scare myself silly winter climbing on Craig Lloer but on rock?
This:
Big Business (E3 5b)
In reply to Trangia:
Went off route in the Dolomites once and ended up doing two 60m pitches of some horrendous disintegrating gully. Everything I touched moved, and the half way "belay" was of the comedy nut behind wobbly block variety.
Oddly I didn't feel that bad about it until I was actually safe.
Went off route in the Dolomites once and ended up doing two 60m pitches of some horrendous disintegrating gully. Everything I touched moved, and the half way "belay" was of the comedy nut behind wobbly block variety.
Oddly I didn't feel that bad about it until I was actually safe.
Post edited at 11:45
3
In reply to planetmarshall:
It's c.25 years since I did this but I remember thinking that it was a lot more demanding than HVS should have been and I was probably leading E2 on a good day then. iirc it did have reputation for being bold and not one to push your grade on, so good effort!
OP: Probably on P1 of The Clearances, out of my depth too far above gear trying not to 'greet for ma maw'. I was a jelly seconding P2 and 3 and not much better on the unpleasant terrace.
> My first HVS lead, Secretaries' Super Direct (HVS) on Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis. Run out slab a long, long way above a small cam. Could feel myself peeling off as I finally summoned up the courage to make the crucial move.
> A vastly more experienced friend reckoned it was an E2 sandbag. Don't know about that, but it was certainly a baptism of fire.
It's c.25 years since I did this but I remember thinking that it was a lot more demanding than HVS should have been and I was probably leading E2 on a good day then. iirc it did have reputation for being bold and not one to push your grade on, so good effort!
OP: Probably on P1 of The Clearances, out of my depth too far above gear trying not to 'greet for ma maw'. I was a jelly seconding P2 and 3 and not much better on the unpleasant terrace.
In reply to Trangia:
Doorpost on Bosi, piece of pie to you lot on here but first sea cliff, first multi pitch and first (wet) traverse for me. Was only seconding but the fear of heights I was trying to control took over as soon as I hit the first belay point and turned around.
Feet still tingle now.
Doorpost on Bosi, piece of pie to you lot on here but first sea cliff, first multi pitch and first (wet) traverse for me. Was only seconding but the fear of heights I was trying to control took over as soon as I hit the first belay point and turned around.
Feet still tingle now.
5
7
In reply to Asleep in the backs:
I'm with you here, this turned me to jelly too - and I was leading VS pretty comfortably at the time and had breezed through Right Angle that morning. It was something to do with the change in rock type and the way the cliff begins half way up a cliff miles above those turquoise blue seas...I spent the whole climb convinced everything was going to rip and we'd fall to our deaths. Not my scariest experience on rock but I can see exactly what you mean!
I'm with you here, this turned me to jelly too - and I was leading VS pretty comfortably at the time and had breezed through Right Angle that morning. It was something to do with the change in rock type and the way the cliff begins half way up a cliff miles above those turquoise blue seas...I spent the whole climb convinced everything was going to rip and we'd fall to our deaths. Not my scariest experience on rock but I can see exactly what you mean!
2
In reply to Trangia:
Got totally sandbagged by Puffrisset (n6) at the beginning of this year. I'm pretty useless at slabs at the best of times, but the grade in my book suggested it was doable, despite only having climbed sport for a year or so.
3rd pitch features a huge run-out above a very suspect flake/spike. The rock was steep and filthy and I got very stuck, slightly out of position just below the crux, so that I couldn't utilise a much desired hold. Worming my way out of that, on the verge of a 15 m (probably more) swingy and scrapey fall, was terrifying. Normally after edgy stuff I get a bit giggly with adrenaline. It was all I could do not to puke after this.
Got totally sandbagged by Puffrisset (n6) at the beginning of this year. I'm pretty useless at slabs at the best of times, but the grade in my book suggested it was doable, despite only having climbed sport for a year or so.
3rd pitch features a huge run-out above a very suspect flake/spike. The rock was steep and filthy and I got very stuck, slightly out of position just below the crux, so that I couldn't utilise a much desired hold. Worming my way out of that, on the verge of a 15 m (probably more) swingy and scrapey fall, was terrifying. Normally after edgy stuff I get a bit giggly with adrenaline. It was all I could do not to puke after this.
4
In reply to Trangia:
The Almighty at Blackchurch, although more of the most frightening thing I didn't do as I bottled the lead of pitch 2 off the pinnacle. Scary enough just seconding it!
The Almighty at Blackchurch, although more of the most frightening thing I didn't do as I bottled the lead of pitch 2 off the pinnacle. Scary enough just seconding it!
In reply to Trangia:
Nice one! Hope you had a moustache.
youtube.com/watch?v=GfUHpYzDhlk&
Nice one! Hope you had a moustache.
youtube.com/watch?v=GfUHpYzDhlk&
Post edited at 12:18
1
In reply to Trangia:
Was climbing on Rannoch Wall and had abseiled down a couple of times after routes, leaving a sling and crab in place on Agags. At the end of the day we decided to head to the summit and come down the path. I decided to solo Agags in trainers with all my gear and a rack in my rucsac to get the sling back. It started raining just before the crux, so I tried to rush it. Mid crux I could feel my trainers slipping, didn't think I could go forward or back, so painstakingly slowly and carefully, took off my rucsac, put harness on, took out the gear and made a belay, relaxed slightly, put stickies on, stripped the gear and finished the route. Gave myself a stern talking too on top.
Interestingly, I didnt gibber, I knew what the next thing I wanted to do was, and focused fully on that, blocking out all panic, but I could feel it banging on the door the whole time. I reckon making stupid mistakes like that in the past and dealing with them let me focus like that.
Was climbing on Rannoch Wall and had abseiled down a couple of times after routes, leaving a sling and crab in place on Agags. At the end of the day we decided to head to the summit and come down the path. I decided to solo Agags in trainers with all my gear and a rack in my rucsac to get the sling back. It started raining just before the crux, so I tried to rush it. Mid crux I could feel my trainers slipping, didn't think I could go forward or back, so painstakingly slowly and carefully, took off my rucsac, put harness on, took out the gear and made a belay, relaxed slightly, put stickies on, stripped the gear and finished the route. Gave myself a stern talking too on top.
Interestingly, I didnt gibber, I knew what the next thing I wanted to do was, and focused fully on that, blocking out all panic, but I could feel it banging on the door the whole time. I reckon making stupid mistakes like that in the past and dealing with them let me focus like that.
1
In reply to Trangia:
Getting the completely wrong hand sequence free soloing 60 meters off the deck, good thing it was only a HVS 5a or i would have been in serious trouble.
Getting the completely wrong hand sequence free soloing 60 meters off the deck, good thing it was only a HVS 5a or i would have been in serious trouble.
6
In reply to Trangia:
Saxon in Cornwall had me....couldn't get any gear below the break, and my previous runner had come out. It was a bloody long way down to that stone beach.
Needed a rescue top rope for the first and only time, much to the amusement of the sick b...std belaying it....
Saxon in Cornwall had me....couldn't get any gear below the break, and my previous runner had come out. It was a bloody long way down to that stone beach.
Needed a rescue top rope for the first and only time, much to the amusement of the sick b...std belaying it....
1
In reply to davidbeynon:
Done that too in the Dolomites. A full rope length of unprotected death choss. The only positives that day were we got so off route what we eventually ended up a really nice, well protected pitch not in any guidebook that topped out in sight of the continuation via ferrata.
Done that too in the Dolomites. A full rope length of unprotected death choss. The only positives that day were we got so off route what we eventually ended up a really nice, well protected pitch not in any guidebook that topped out in sight of the continuation via ferrata.
In reply to Mike-W-99:
Putting a peg in at Millstone.Totally unexpected rabid dog response.Far scarier than soloing Edge Lane at the same crag.
Of course,we need to manage our fear and try to be true to ourselves.
Putting a peg in at Millstone.Totally unexpected rabid dog response.Far scarier than soloing Edge Lane at the same crag.
Of course,we need to manage our fear and try to be true to ourselves.
12
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In reply to Trangia:
Soloing up the 'escape route' out of Ramming Hole (Pembroke) as described in the guidebook - though calling it 'rock' is a bit generous - 'bits of rock sitting on and sticking out of a steep decaying slope of mud' would be more accurate!
Chris
Soloing up the 'escape route' out of Ramming Hole (Pembroke) as described in the guidebook - though calling it 'rock' is a bit generous - 'bits of rock sitting on and sticking out of a steep decaying slope of mud' would be more accurate!
Chris
1
In reply to Trangia:
Anvil chorus at Bosi.
I hadn't been climbing long, and was told I couldn't use cams on it. (some weird rule of my uncle). I was almost crying at the top of the layback pitch, I didn't have a single runner on it.
My uncle never led anything, but he had all the gear, including a full set of friends. He tried pulling the same daft rule when we did dream of white horses. I told him where to go this time. He thanked me for using them, when he pulled over the top shaking like a shi**ing dog. He dropped the "no cams rule" after that.
Anvil chorus at Bosi.
I hadn't been climbing long, and was told I couldn't use cams on it. (some weird rule of my uncle). I was almost crying at the top of the layback pitch, I didn't have a single runner on it.
My uncle never led anything, but he had all the gear, including a full set of friends. He tried pulling the same daft rule when we did dream of white horses. I told him where to go this time. He thanked me for using them, when he pulled over the top shaking like a shi**ing dog. He dropped the "no cams rule" after that.
10
In reply to Trangia:
Brush Off on Bleak How, Borrowdale. There isn't much gear after the triangular miniature sentry box near the start and I managed not to see the only half-decent placement in the middle section so was climbing with a ground fall potential for about 50% of the route. I seem to remember lots of gear in the last few metres where the climbing is easy. I don't think I panicked but I did concentrate.
Brush Off on Bleak How, Borrowdale. There isn't much gear after the triangular miniature sentry box near the start and I managed not to see the only half-decent placement in the middle section so was climbing with a ground fall potential for about 50% of the route. I seem to remember lots of gear in the last few metres where the climbing is easy. I don't think I panicked but I did concentrate.
1
In reply to Trangia:
Soloing Sandbed Ghyll in slippy work boots on the way home.
Apart from the parked car, nobody had a clue where I was, glad to get out at the top.
or possibly soloing Great Gully on the Screes a year later, same situation but at least I was wearing Walshes.
Quite humbling, makes you realise how tough the pioneers were in the " Gully Era " .
Soloing Sandbed Ghyll in slippy work boots on the way home.
Apart from the parked car, nobody had a clue where I was, glad to get out at the top.
or possibly soloing Great Gully on the Screes a year later, same situation but at least I was wearing Walshes.
Quite humbling, makes you realise how tough the pioneers were in the " Gully Era " .
1
In reply to Trangia:
Scratching my way up Tveitaisen Tveitaisen (WI-4) last winter was pretty much the spiciest experience I've had on rope. A fully 50 m run out on a few centimetre thick ice and loose powder snow coated rock, was not my ideal start to the day.
Brought up my second to a belay consisting of a single axe and tied off stubby screw that was creaking, to the tune of don't you f*cking dare fall off!
We abandoned that and made for a very quick return to the car.
Of course none of this epic was made any easier by having a massive audience of passing skiiers eagerly awaiting your demise.
Scratching my way up Tveitaisen Tveitaisen (WI-4) last winter was pretty much the spiciest experience I've had on rope. A fully 50 m run out on a few centimetre thick ice and loose powder snow coated rock, was not my ideal start to the day.
Brought up my second to a belay consisting of a single axe and tied off stubby screw that was creaking, to the tune of don't you f*cking dare fall off!
We abandoned that and made for a very quick return to the car.
Of course none of this epic was made any easier by having a massive audience of passing skiiers eagerly awaiting your demise.
6
In reply to Trangia:
The scramble route on Grosser Biberkopf (Lechtal Alps) in the rain. Easyish but death fall terrain, with the clay dirt on the limestone rocks getting so slippery that you simply start sliding when standing on an even mildly sloping foot step.
CB
The scramble route on Grosser Biberkopf (Lechtal Alps) in the rain. Easyish but death fall terrain, with the clay dirt on the limestone rocks getting so slippery that you simply start sliding when standing on an even mildly sloping foot step.
CB
In reply to planetmarshall:
I did that one December when it was below zero and got the worst hotaches ever. There was no feedback on the route whatsoever from my feet as I couldn't feel anything from the ankle down.
I did that one December when it was below zero and got the worst hotaches ever. There was no feedback on the route whatsoever from my feet as I couldn't feel anything from the ankle down.
In reply to Trangia:
Erroneously abseiled over and edge and into space in the Dolomites. The guidebook said that all abseil anchors were in a line so I didn't think to check and assumed I would find one over the edge. Instead I found an overhanging face and the knot in the end of my rope.
I've never felt so alone and like I'd f*cked up in my entire life. I was still about 80m up and my partner was completely out of view.
I managed to swing myself across and into the face 5m to the left (that horrible sound of rope running along an edge) and put my finger through a bolt, clip into it (I used 2 quickdraws for absolutely no rational reason), and then had to take my weight off the rope and onto the bolt for my partner to ab down to me with the other rope (the plan was for him to clip into the bolt above and I would change ropes and continue down). He abbed down, stood on a lip about 7m above me, looked over, and pointed out that the anchor was 'just there'....
Erroneously abseiled over and edge and into space in the Dolomites. The guidebook said that all abseil anchors were in a line so I didn't think to check and assumed I would find one over the edge. Instead I found an overhanging face and the knot in the end of my rope.
I've never felt so alone and like I'd f*cked up in my entire life. I was still about 80m up and my partner was completely out of view.
I managed to swing myself across and into the face 5m to the left (that horrible sound of rope running along an edge) and put my finger through a bolt, clip into it (I used 2 quickdraws for absolutely no rational reason), and then had to take my weight off the rope and onto the bolt for my partner to ab down to me with the other rope (the plan was for him to clip into the bolt above and I would change ropes and continue down). He abbed down, stood on a lip about 7m above me, looked over, and pointed out that the anchor was 'just there'....
11
In reply to Rog Wilko:
I remember Fancy Free at the same crag being even more worrying!
> Brush Off on Bleak How, Borrowdale.
I remember Fancy Free at the same crag being even more worrying!
In reply to Trangia:
Probably abseiling off saplings to claim gear booty spotted on a crag in Ennerdale. I can't be alone in having done ridiculous stuff just to get a couple of free carabiners that you subsequently don't trust anyway.
Probably abseiling off saplings to claim gear booty spotted on a crag in Ennerdale. I can't be alone in having done ridiculous stuff just to get a couple of free carabiners that you subsequently don't trust anyway.
2
In reply to Trangia:
I've mentioned this many times: Jericho Wall on the Cromlech in 1970, when I got the ropes crossed round a (poor) flake (my last piece of v poor protection about 60+ feet below the top) which caused huge rope drag. My arms were starting to give out about 30 feet below the top. I don't think I've ever been so afraid on a lead (even in Norway!). I somehow made it, because I just had to.
I've mentioned this many times: Jericho Wall on the Cromlech in 1970, when I got the ropes crossed round a (poor) flake (my last piece of v poor protection about 60+ feet below the top) which caused huge rope drag. My arms were starting to give out about 30 feet below the top. I don't think I've ever been so afraid on a lead (even in Norway!). I somehow made it, because I just had to.
4
In reply to Mike-W-99:
This happened on my honeymoon. I remember reaching a via ferrata at the top of the second gully pitch. The conversation I had with her went like this:
Me: "I have good news and bad news. What do you want to hear first?"
Her: "The bad news."
Me: "I have no idea where we are on this mountain."
Her: *looks close to tears* "And the good news?"
Me: "I've got you belayed to a Via Ferrata"
Her: "I LOVE YOU DAVE!"
Most romantic moment of the week
This happened on my honeymoon. I remember reaching a via ferrata at the top of the second gully pitch. The conversation I had with her went like this:
Me: "I have good news and bad news. What do you want to hear first?"
Her: "The bad news."
Me: "I have no idea where we are on this mountain."
Her: *looks close to tears* "And the good news?"
Me: "I've got you belayed to a Via Ferrata"
Her: "I LOVE YOU DAVE!"
Most romantic moment of the week
23
In reply to AlanLittle:
Yes, bolder (in places) than the Pillar but less sustained I'd say. Both great routes.
> Foot slipped at the end of the runout on Dire Straights at Diabaig. Thought I was going for a BIG ride.
> It was E1 in the guidebook at the time, but is far more runout and definitely no easier than the Pillar.
Yes, bolder (in places) than the Pillar but less sustained I'd say. Both great routes.
1
In reply to Trangia:
We dressed up as vampires and ghouls and did a Welsh multi pitch at night. There were three pairs of us on parallel routes. Even thought we knew it was each other in the costumes, it was scary as hell when you caught the others in your head torch.
We dressed up as vampires and ghouls and did a Welsh multi pitch at night. There were three pairs of us on parallel routes. Even thought we knew it was each other in the costumes, it was scary as hell when you caught the others in your head torch.
9
In reply to Trangia:
Only remember experiencing true terror on abseils; especially aerial ones. Have spiralled, eyes closed, waiting for the rope to snap down Tatra at Swanage, Space buttress in Pembroke, Demerara Wall at Carn Gowla and off the Old Man of Stoer. All horrible, but perhaps the worst was spinning inches above the gruel sea at Ogmore, unable to reach the rock and waiting for the water to suck me down.
I lassoed a spike in the end.
Only remember experiencing true terror on abseils; especially aerial ones. Have spiralled, eyes closed, waiting for the rope to snap down Tatra at Swanage, Space buttress in Pembroke, Demerara Wall at Carn Gowla and off the Old Man of Stoer. All horrible, but perhaps the worst was spinning inches above the gruel sea at Ogmore, unable to reach the rock and waiting for the water to suck me down.
I lassoed a spike in the end.
2
In reply to alan moore:
Nearly in the soup?
> All horrible, but perhaps the worst was spinning inches above the gruel sea at Ogmore,
Nearly in the soup?
10
In reply to Trangia:
Not climbing myself, but belaying Dave MacLeod on To Hell and Back, watching the skyhook fall out ...
Not climbing myself, but belaying Dave MacLeod on To Hell and Back, watching the skyhook fall out ...
3
In reply to Trangia: jumped the gap at Huntsman's Leap in 1984, fell off the top of Moat Buttress in WCJ without a rope, nearly abseiled off the wrong edge of the rope from the very top of Wintour's Leap whilst on a cleaning trip in 1985, abseiled off the end of rope at Central Buttress WCJ - more daft than scary. Do they count?
4
In reply to GarethSL: i remember watching you, and thinking it looked very exciting.
Offroute on the Aiguille de Praz Torrent and knowing a mistake on some fairly thin climbing would likely equal a dead team
Offroute on the Aiguille de Praz Torrent and knowing a mistake on some fairly thin climbing would likely equal a dead team
In reply to wbo:
Eep! But its still on my to do list, if you're available in early February do you fancy helping me try it again?
Eep! But its still on my to do list, if you're available in early February do you fancy helping me try it again?
In reply to Trangia:
Forgetting to close the hauling device whilst high on El Cap SE face
I'll never forgot the bang when the bags were lowered out
Saved by my backup of 5mm chord, which I didn't know was clipped in
Don't rush
Forgetting to close the hauling device whilst high on El Cap SE face
I'll never forgot the bang when the bags were lowered out
Saved by my backup of 5mm chord, which I didn't know was clipped in
Don't rush
1
In reply to Trangia:
Slip n slide onsight in the drizzle, on my own, deserted crag, above a beer mat
Slip n slide onsight in the drizzle, on my own, deserted crag, above a beer mat
3
In reply to Trangia:
The dangler,Lower Falcon. A chossy, insecure feeling crag and a fall onto a joke of a bolt with ground fall as the consequence should it fail. Terrifying
The dangler,Lower Falcon. A chossy, insecure feeling crag and a fall onto a joke of a bolt with ground fall as the consequence should it fail. Terrifying
In reply to Pedro50:
It may have been him the egged me on. He persuaded me to headstand Tedgness Pinnacle the week before. (He did a handstand on it!) A long time ago and memory is poor these days. (possibly from all the stupid impacts it has taken in it's life!)
It may have been him the egged me on. He persuaded me to headstand Tedgness Pinnacle the week before. (He did a handstand on it!) A long time ago and memory is poor these days. (possibly from all the stupid impacts it has taken in it's life!)
In reply to Trangia:
Pig Dogs on Parade on the Chief at Squamish. 2 pitches of very run-out smearing with no positive holds at all.
Pig Dogs on Parade on the Chief at Squamish. 2 pitches of very run-out smearing with no positive holds at all.
In reply to Trangia: (damn! You said on rock...ho hum...carry on regardless). Traversing onto a frozen 100 m high waterfall at half height, convinced it would 'go'. Me a complete newbie, totally alone on a big mountain in Italy. Primitive crampons, one walker's ice axe. The more I progressed up the ice, the more obvious it was I was a walker way out of my depth, until, wholly convinced that downclimbing had become impossible, and that my only option was to 'escape upwards', I struck the ice at head height, only to watch in utter horror as it started crazing and disintegrating and the water flowing beneath started to gush out and over me...
I remember telling myself "OK...If i want to live, I'm going to have to downclimb...but i don't think it's possible...'
It took a while, but I reversed my steps, traversed back off and descended to the base, before sitting down and giving myself 'a damn good talking to..' And wishing I hadn't given up smoking.
I remember telling myself "OK...If i want to live, I'm going to have to downclimb...but i don't think it's possible...'
It took a while, but I reversed my steps, traversed back off and descended to the base, before sitting down and giving myself 'a damn good talking to..' And wishing I hadn't given up smoking.
10
In reply to Trangia:
West Window Groove (HVS 5a)
i got completely off route and had zero usable gear 20 meters above belay on near vertical grass. horrible experience
West Window Groove (HVS 5a)
i got completely off route and had zero usable gear 20 meters above belay on near vertical grass. horrible experience
1
In reply to Gary Gibson:
No, Gary, I'm afraid they don't. You're simply not trying hard enough!
Mick
> jumped the gap at Huntsman's Leap in 1984, fell off the top of Moat Buttress in WCJ without a rope, nearly abseiled off the wrong edge of the rope from the very top of Wintour's Leap whilst on a cleaning trip in 1985, abseiled off the end of rope at Central Buttress WCJ - more daft than scary. Do they count?
No, Gary, I'm afraid they don't. You're simply not trying hard enough!
Mick
4
In reply to Trangia:
Nearly falling off at Bellhagg while soloing as a teenager by myself, I probably wouldn't have died but breaking something seemed possible. I said 'F*ck' quite a lot.
Jumping Adam & Eve was just exciting, oh to be a nearly-fearless teen again.
Nearly falling off at Bellhagg while soloing as a teenager by myself, I probably wouldn't have died but breaking something seemed possible. I said 'F*ck' quite a lot.
Jumping Adam & Eve was just exciting, oh to be a nearly-fearless teen again.
In reply to Trangia:
Using a handkerchief as a 'sling' to ab off after failing on a route in the Lakes. We were 14, skint and as stupid as they come. Neither of us would leave a precious sling behind. Thank God we were also scrawny kids and weighed next to nothing soaking wet. I've never been able to identify that route since but it must have been a slab otherwise a hankie tied with, I suspect, a reef knot would never have held us. When we were very, very young.........
Using a handkerchief as a 'sling' to ab off after failing on a route in the Lakes. We were 14, skint and as stupid as they come. Neither of us would leave a precious sling behind. Thank God we were also scrawny kids and weighed next to nothing soaking wet. I've never been able to identify that route since but it must have been a slab otherwise a hankie tied with, I suspect, a reef knot would never have held us. When we were very, very young.........
7
In reply to Trangia:
Only one? Impossible
Superdirect on Mot, my fingers always seemed to be in the runner placements so climbed from the big runner on Diagonal to the end of the pitch without runners.
Great and Bow, soloing with a sack, I seemed to wake up half way across the leftwards traverse.
Probably top, soloing Dream of White Horses, was held up half way across the slab for nearly an hour while another party faffed about, that was the day when I probably should have died
Only one? Impossible
Superdirect on Mot, my fingers always seemed to be in the runner placements so climbed from the big runner on Diagonal to the end of the pitch without runners.
Great and Bow, soloing with a sack, I seemed to wake up half way across the leftwards traverse.
Probably top, soloing Dream of White Horses, was held up half way across the slab for nearly an hour while another party faffed about, that was the day when I probably should have died
2
In reply to Kean:
Just reminded me of a winter solo up the Idwal Slabs, in bendy walking boots. Half way up it started to be a bit icy, by the top I was cutting steps in inch thick ice with a pen knife, why don't I ever turn back
Just reminded me of a winter solo up the Idwal Slabs, in bendy walking boots. Half way up it started to be a bit icy, by the top I was cutting steps in inch thick ice with a pen knife, why don't I ever turn back
3
In reply to Trangia:
Had a few scary moments over the years, usually unplanned, but in terms of deliberately doing something scary, soloing Rat Race at Gogarth is certainly up there.
I had some dark days after my first marriage failed (my fault) not helped by too much Jack Daniels and other substances.
One of those days found me half way up the chimney pitch just as it began to rain, and I began to sober up!
Can't recall what followed in any detail, but I do remember when I did finally reach the top, I was so scared that I was shaking like a leaf, and sobbing like a child.
Had a few scary moments over the years, usually unplanned, but in terms of deliberately doing something scary, soloing Rat Race at Gogarth is certainly up there.
I had some dark days after my first marriage failed (my fault) not helped by too much Jack Daniels and other substances.
One of those days found me half way up the chimney pitch just as it began to rain, and I began to sober up!
Can't recall what followed in any detail, but I do remember when I did finally reach the top, I was so scared that I was shaking like a leaf, and sobbing like a child.
7
In reply to Trangia:
After some thought I think I've been most scared on Elegy at the Roaches, where my newly resoled shoes were woefully inadequate for the style of climbing. I sketched my way up to the heathery break, not without some deep breaths and talking to myself a lot, before dicovering it was filthy dirty, sloping and that I couldn't get any gear in it or in the vertical crack above because I'd used that size cam already. In the end, after shuffling around deciding what to do I traversed a bit right and finished up the arete....still bold but better than the crack!
The next day, I watched someone fall off from the heathery break, ripping all of his cams out of the flake in the process which I thought were bomber and decking out on stretch. The only thing that saved him was his really high side runner, which I hadn't used out of (misguided) ethical considerations. In the end he 'only' got a broken akle I think. I still get the shivers thinking about what would have happened had I fallen off up there.
After some thought I think I've been most scared on Elegy at the Roaches, where my newly resoled shoes were woefully inadequate for the style of climbing. I sketched my way up to the heathery break, not without some deep breaths and talking to myself a lot, before dicovering it was filthy dirty, sloping and that I couldn't get any gear in it or in the vertical crack above because I'd used that size cam already. In the end, after shuffling around deciding what to do I traversed a bit right and finished up the arete....still bold but better than the crack!
The next day, I watched someone fall off from the heathery break, ripping all of his cams out of the flake in the process which I thought were bomber and decking out on stretch. The only thing that saved him was his really high side runner, which I hadn't used out of (misguided) ethical considerations. In the end he 'only' got a broken akle I think. I still get the shivers thinking about what would have happened had I fallen off up there.
Post edited at 13:24
2
In reply to GarethSL:
If it's in better shape than the last time
Momentary diversion - are you going to Ian's drytooling thing at Sørmarka on Sunday. I plan to go , but will have the kids with me.
If it's in better shape than the last time
Momentary diversion - are you going to Ian's drytooling thing at Sørmarka on Sunday. I plan to go , but will have the kids with me.
10
4
In reply to Trangia:
In 2008, my buddy Dave and I were on Squamish Chief for the first time, stood on a ledge having just come up Calculus Crack (5.8). Above I saw this incredible layback flake, the kind of line that just HAS to be climbed.
The route was Karen's Math (5.10a), not that we knew this at the time as we didn't have a guide. It looked like biggish gear might be helpful, which was unfortunate as, having come up Calculus, we only had a very thin rack of mostly small/med gear. Despite this, I decided to quest up. I placed my one suitably sized cam at about half-height in the flake and pressed on. The flake ended but (amusingly - in retrospect) I hadn't given any thought to where the route went after, or that the laybacking might not be the main event. It was all of a sudden looking a bit more techy. With a completely unjustified sense of confidence, I committed to the traverse out left and was suddenly balls deep, 6-8m maybe above my lone cam, doing moves that felt right at my limit. I remember entering a calm state of "I absolutely MUST NOT fall here".
Thankfully I didn't and in a few moves' time was able to wriggle in a small wire in the final crack but those minutes had been gripping.
When Dave seconded he called up from the start of the traverse, "Why didn't you clip this bolt up here?"!
Couple of lessons learnt that day...
In 2008, my buddy Dave and I were on Squamish Chief for the first time, stood on a ledge having just come up Calculus Crack (5.8). Above I saw this incredible layback flake, the kind of line that just HAS to be climbed.
The route was Karen's Math (5.10a), not that we knew this at the time as we didn't have a guide. It looked like biggish gear might be helpful, which was unfortunate as, having come up Calculus, we only had a very thin rack of mostly small/med gear. Despite this, I decided to quest up. I placed my one suitably sized cam at about half-height in the flake and pressed on. The flake ended but (amusingly - in retrospect) I hadn't given any thought to where the route went after, or that the laybacking might not be the main event. It was all of a sudden looking a bit more techy. With a completely unjustified sense of confidence, I committed to the traverse out left and was suddenly balls deep, 6-8m maybe above my lone cam, doing moves that felt right at my limit. I remember entering a calm state of "I absolutely MUST NOT fall here".
Thankfully I didn't and in a few moves' time was able to wriggle in a small wire in the final crack but those minutes had been gripping.
When Dave seconded he called up from the start of the traverse, "Why didn't you clip this bolt up here?"!
Couple of lessons learnt that day...
10
In reply to Trangia:
Climbing Us on the Ramp in Avon gorge which is a steep E2 and getting pumped out of my tiny mind. I put in gear and kept resting on it too pumped to commit until I finally did. I then climbed the wall after the overhanging section but was too pumped to hang on to put in gear nd reached a final moved to get to the belay ledge which was a tough little move bearing in mind I could hardly close my hand I was so far gone. I could see gear right in front of me but knew if I placed it I'd fall off and take a 50 foot fall and hit the deck which was solid rock and bust myself up badly. So I just made the move... could hardly breathe...
Climbing Us on the Ramp in Avon gorge which is a steep E2 and getting pumped out of my tiny mind. I put in gear and kept resting on it too pumped to commit until I finally did. I then climbed the wall after the overhanging section but was too pumped to hang on to put in gear nd reached a final moved to get to the belay ledge which was a tough little move bearing in mind I could hardly close my hand I was so far gone. I could see gear right in front of me but knew if I placed it I'd fall off and take a 50 foot fall and hit the deck which was solid rock and bust myself up badly. So I just made the move... could hardly breathe...
2
1
In reply to Trangia:
Bludgers Revelation (HVS 5a)
Climbed harder routes but nothing quite as scary as being up on Slime Wall feeling all alone.
Thought I'd be a smart arse and run the two first pitches together but realised half way up the "2nd" corner pitch that I was quite far above my gear with my belayer way below me and laybacking when I should have been bridging. Never felt that close to peeling off and would have gone for miles as I couldn't stop to place gear I was feeling so pumped. Some how managed to get through and placed a good runner and relaxed for a bit, very relieved to reach the belay ledge and have a sit down.
Ended up lost somewhere on the 4th pitch and had to abseil down Shibboleth due to the lateness of the day, now I've got to go back and climb the bastard again! Realised from below that I actually knew where we were but couldn't match the topo with what I was looking at while on the wall, a superb adventure!
Did enjoy when I watched the Edge afterwards with Jimmy Marshall talking about it and saying; "If you're a fit and muscular climber you can just layback your way up it"!
Bludgers Revelation (HVS 5a)
Climbed harder routes but nothing quite as scary as being up on Slime Wall feeling all alone.
Thought I'd be a smart arse and run the two first pitches together but realised half way up the "2nd" corner pitch that I was quite far above my gear with my belayer way below me and laybacking when I should have been bridging. Never felt that close to peeling off and would have gone for miles as I couldn't stop to place gear I was feeling so pumped. Some how managed to get through and placed a good runner and relaxed for a bit, very relieved to reach the belay ledge and have a sit down.
Ended up lost somewhere on the 4th pitch and had to abseil down Shibboleth due to the lateness of the day, now I've got to go back and climb the bastard again! Realised from below that I actually knew where we were but couldn't match the topo with what I was looking at while on the wall, a superb adventure!
Did enjoy when I watched the Edge afterwards with Jimmy Marshall talking about it and saying; "If you're a fit and muscular climber you can just layback your way up it"!
1
5
1
2
In reply to Trangia:
There's an obvious selection effect in all these stories. The ones that were really scary people can't post because they didn't make it back...
There's an obvious selection effect in all these stories. The ones that were really scary people can't post because they didn't make it back...
4
1
In reply to airborne:
Yep, got my mate to ab off a rope clipped to me sitting on the grass at the top of Craig y Forwen for a rock 6
Yep, got my mate to ab off a rope clipped to me sitting on the grass at the top of Craig y Forwen for a rock 6
1
In reply to wbo:
Sure
Unfortunately not, I'm back in Barteby now until Feb, I'll drop you a PM nearer to the time.
Sure
Unfortunately not, I'm back in Barteby now until Feb, I'll drop you a PM nearer to the time.
In reply to Trangia:
Descending the Hornli Ridge after an Italian soloist fell off and died in front of us.
Descending the Hornli Ridge after an Italian soloist fell off and died in front of us.
In reply to highaltitudebarista:
Horrible.
It's a shock when you witness someone die. I know, I've seen it. It shakes your confidence.
Horrible.
It's a shock when you witness someone die. I know, I've seen it. It shakes your confidence.
In reply to Trangia:
Abbing off the top of lost arrow spire and noticing half way down that the previous abseiler had carelessly pulled one of the rope tails far enough through that the shorter tail didn't reach the gap (we'd neglected to knot the ends...)
Cue enough adrenaline release to outrun a cheetah, some VERY careful adjustments and stern words to the previous abseiler.
Abbing off the top of lost arrow spire and noticing half way down that the previous abseiler had carelessly pulled one of the rope tails far enough through that the shorter tail didn't reach the gap (we'd neglected to knot the ends...)
Cue enough adrenaline release to outrun a cheetah, some VERY careful adjustments and stern words to the previous abseiler.
In reply to Trangia:
Conclusion 1 after reading this good thread: triple your care and attention while abseiling, or it could be your last day on earth. I thought everyone knew how deadly abseils can be, but apparently not.
Conclusion 2: many of us including me are lucky to be alive.
Conclusion 1 after reading this good thread: triple your care and attention while abseiling, or it could be your last day on earth. I thought everyone knew how deadly abseils can be, but apparently not.
Conclusion 2: many of us including me are lucky to be alive.
3
In reply to Goucho:
We have a winner, ye gads.
> soloing Rat Race at Gogarth is certainly up there.
> Can't recall what followed in any detail, but I do remember when I did finally reach the top, I was so scared that I was shaking like a leaf, and sobbing like a child.
We have a winner, ye gads.
3
In reply to Trangia:
Posted before:
"My scariest ever climbing moments were on a route called Pathos on Cilan Head. Myself and Rod Haslam had spotted a parallel line running above Jack Streets route Lime Street and decided to give it a go. Now, Lime Street follows a big horizontal line about 15ft above a huge roof which is itself about 40ft above the sea. Our line was about 15ft above that. I started off up what looked like a fairly solid corner and indeed turned to be ok, but no runners. After about 40ft I placed an 'ok' peg and set off to traverse the break. The further I went the worse the rock got. No real handholds and eventually I was just kicking footholds in this strange rock like badly stuck together pineapple chunks. Finally I got to the ledge we had been aiming for completely gripped and emotionally drained. Now things started to turn serious. No belay. Well I got 2 knife blades about three quarters of an inch upwards into a thin crack in the roof above the ledge. Well there was no way I was going back along that traverse so I shouted to Rod that I would just jump off into the sea. You can tell how gripped I was.
Rod would have none of it and insisted he would come up and join me. He got to the peg unclipped it and we now had 40ft of rope out with no runners between us, an imaginary belay, and Rod about to climb the loosest traverse I'd ever done to join me. As he climbed towards me I watched in horror as the rock showered down from under his feet. Rod just coolly complained about the state of the gardening I'd done. When he saw the belay I could tell from his face that until then he hadnt believed how bad it was.I was totally gripped. We were in the middle of this huge unclimbed face about 70ft above the sea, no real belay, no way were either of us going back along the traverse and not knowing if we could climb out of the thing. Plus side was the rock had got better!
I hatched a plan, "Rod, this is what we do, I'll lower you down to Lime Street where we know there are good pegs. You belay and take in the rope, brace yourself and I'll jump off, then prussik up to you and we'll escape up Lime Street."
"Al, you've gone mad."
So plan B, Rod continues along the traverse for about 15ft. Whoops of joy as he finds a crack that takes a Leeper up to the hilt. Above is a long corner leading to a tree. Rod sets of up this, complaining about the lack of pro, so he is slow and careful. I see him finally arrive at the tree and put a sling round it, I'm happy now but Rod is still strangely quiet. He traverses about 15 ft left and finds a good crack in a corner which takes a big Hex belay. Fab.
By now its rapidly going dark so throwing caution to the wind with the big tree runner directly above me I blast up the crack. Its about 35 ft and probably only 4c but with no runners and considering the position it was a bloody good lead. Seeing me nearly fall off a couple of times through the carelessness of speed. Rod implores me to be careful. I arrive at the 'tree', its the biggest sea cabbage plant I've ever seen and might have just about held a squirrel monkey!! I traverse across to Rod. I look happily at Rod's stonking belay and we've only got about 25ft of perfect layback crack to the top and safety. For the first time in several hours I begin to see survival as a real option. I set off up the layback crack happily and its only as I get halfway up do I realise that what was a parallel crack when I set off is now distinctly wider towards the top.Just as I'm about to think hand jamming might be a better option Chris Jackson and Jack Street appear at the top of the crag and suss out that flake I'm climbing up is about to head for a dip. They brace themselves and grab hold of the flake holding onto the crag until I make the top. Anyway its a great route, Pathos HVS 4c 200ft, get out there and do it!"
Posted before:
"My scariest ever climbing moments were on a route called Pathos on Cilan Head. Myself and Rod Haslam had spotted a parallel line running above Jack Streets route Lime Street and decided to give it a go. Now, Lime Street follows a big horizontal line about 15ft above a huge roof which is itself about 40ft above the sea. Our line was about 15ft above that. I started off up what looked like a fairly solid corner and indeed turned to be ok, but no runners. After about 40ft I placed an 'ok' peg and set off to traverse the break. The further I went the worse the rock got. No real handholds and eventually I was just kicking footholds in this strange rock like badly stuck together pineapple chunks. Finally I got to the ledge we had been aiming for completely gripped and emotionally drained. Now things started to turn serious. No belay. Well I got 2 knife blades about three quarters of an inch upwards into a thin crack in the roof above the ledge. Well there was no way I was going back along that traverse so I shouted to Rod that I would just jump off into the sea. You can tell how gripped I was.
Rod would have none of it and insisted he would come up and join me. He got to the peg unclipped it and we now had 40ft of rope out with no runners between us, an imaginary belay, and Rod about to climb the loosest traverse I'd ever done to join me. As he climbed towards me I watched in horror as the rock showered down from under his feet. Rod just coolly complained about the state of the gardening I'd done. When he saw the belay I could tell from his face that until then he hadnt believed how bad it was.I was totally gripped. We were in the middle of this huge unclimbed face about 70ft above the sea, no real belay, no way were either of us going back along the traverse and not knowing if we could climb out of the thing. Plus side was the rock had got better!
I hatched a plan, "Rod, this is what we do, I'll lower you down to Lime Street where we know there are good pegs. You belay and take in the rope, brace yourself and I'll jump off, then prussik up to you and we'll escape up Lime Street."
"Al, you've gone mad."
So plan B, Rod continues along the traverse for about 15ft. Whoops of joy as he finds a crack that takes a Leeper up to the hilt. Above is a long corner leading to a tree. Rod sets of up this, complaining about the lack of pro, so he is slow and careful. I see him finally arrive at the tree and put a sling round it, I'm happy now but Rod is still strangely quiet. He traverses about 15 ft left and finds a good crack in a corner which takes a big Hex belay. Fab.
By now its rapidly going dark so throwing caution to the wind with the big tree runner directly above me I blast up the crack. Its about 35 ft and probably only 4c but with no runners and considering the position it was a bloody good lead. Seeing me nearly fall off a couple of times through the carelessness of speed. Rod implores me to be careful. I arrive at the 'tree', its the biggest sea cabbage plant I've ever seen and might have just about held a squirrel monkey!! I traverse across to Rod. I look happily at Rod's stonking belay and we've only got about 25ft of perfect layback crack to the top and safety. For the first time in several hours I begin to see survival as a real option. I set off up the layback crack happily and its only as I get halfway up do I realise that what was a parallel crack when I set off is now distinctly wider towards the top.Just as I'm about to think hand jamming might be a better option Chris Jackson and Jack Street appear at the top of the crag and suss out that flake I'm climbing up is about to head for a dip. They brace themselves and grab hold of the flake holding onto the crag until I make the top. Anyway its a great route, Pathos HVS 4c 200ft, get out there and do it!"
14
In reply to Trangia:
The first pitch of Buccaneer at Swanage - loose, sandy, damp, poorly protected and above lethal boulders. When I got to the belay it was crumbling and the best alternative was 'occupied' by rotting in situ wires, and so I had to take a hanging alternative. I was sick with fear and with a mouth as dry as a pharaoh's sock by the time I got to that point, but at least I felt vaguely secure once I was belayed. By the time my partner had climbed up I had just about retained my composure (but I probably still had a bad case of the manic stares). He then set off over the roof. By the time he'd belayed I was almost together. I climbed up to the roof but the rope started to pull me out backwards. Every time I moved anything there was another tug backwards on the rope - the fear surged back again. I just hurled myself at it in the end, gibbering. It was one of those "How did my life lead to this?" moments. I did get to the top, and flat earth never felt so good.
Three stars? My a***!
The first pitch of Buccaneer at Swanage - loose, sandy, damp, poorly protected and above lethal boulders. When I got to the belay it was crumbling and the best alternative was 'occupied' by rotting in situ wires, and so I had to take a hanging alternative. I was sick with fear and with a mouth as dry as a pharaoh's sock by the time I got to that point, but at least I felt vaguely secure once I was belayed. By the time my partner had climbed up I had just about retained my composure (but I probably still had a bad case of the manic stares). He then set off over the roof. By the time he'd belayed I was almost together. I climbed up to the roof but the rope started to pull me out backwards. Every time I moved anything there was another tug backwards on the rope - the fear surged back again. I just hurled myself at it in the end, gibbering. It was one of those "How did my life lead to this?" moments. I did get to the top, and flat earth never felt so good.
Three stars? My a***!
Post edited at 12:11
4
In reply to Trangia:
Very early on in my climbing, 'freezing' on Allans slab at Froggat as the November sun sank over the horizon and the temperature started to drop.Took an eternity to tip toe away from the foot level gear and across to safety.
Done loads more dangerous stuff than this but this was the most scary.
Very early on in my climbing, 'freezing' on Allans slab at Froggat as the November sun sank over the horizon and the temperature started to drop.Took an eternity to tip toe away from the foot level gear and across to safety.
Done loads more dangerous stuff than this but this was the most scary.
1
In reply to GuyVG:
Too right, just the thought of losing it solo above mid-height on the Rat Race is enough to give me nightmares (never mind actually soloing it)...
> We have a winner, ye gads.
Too right, just the thought of losing it solo above mid-height on the Rat Race is enough to give me nightmares (never mind actually soloing it)...
In reply to GrahamD:
Funnily it's not the stuff I should have been scared on (but clearly wasn't that badly shaken up by) that I remember for that reason.
I "should" have been scared when after around 6 monhs off climbing due to an injury I jumped on Ratbag at Froggatt as my second route (warmed up on something like Allans Slab) for a look see, placed the last gear, ran it out to the crux just below the top, suddenly realised why it got E2, laughed to myself and rather calmly made the move. Bearing in mind that was my top lead grade even when on form.
On the other hand, I've been scared witless a number of times on safer and easier grit routes. I recall getting to the half way ledge on a bit of a sandbag VS at Burbage North and finding it covered in damp loose grit which was threatening to throw me off into deck out territory. Even my trusty belayer thought it was heading into broken leg territory and was trying to work out how to either save me or get out of the way....
I think the only time I really thought I might die a rather lonely death was abseiling of an alpine route in a rather remote area, going over an overlap into space, failing to find any anchors, messing around with stuff using little common sense and almost managing to kill myself. Eventually managed to prussik back up and found an alternate way off. I hate abseiling and only do it if necessary.
The mind is a strange thing.
Funnily it's not the stuff I should have been scared on (but clearly wasn't that badly shaken up by) that I remember for that reason.
I "should" have been scared when after around 6 monhs off climbing due to an injury I jumped on Ratbag at Froggatt as my second route (warmed up on something like Allans Slab) for a look see, placed the last gear, ran it out to the crux just below the top, suddenly realised why it got E2, laughed to myself and rather calmly made the move. Bearing in mind that was my top lead grade even when on form.
On the other hand, I've been scared witless a number of times on safer and easier grit routes. I recall getting to the half way ledge on a bit of a sandbag VS at Burbage North and finding it covered in damp loose grit which was threatening to throw me off into deck out territory. Even my trusty belayer thought it was heading into broken leg territory and was trying to work out how to either save me or get out of the way....
I think the only time I really thought I might die a rather lonely death was abseiling of an alpine route in a rather remote area, going over an overlap into space, failing to find any anchors, messing around with stuff using little common sense and almost managing to kill myself. Eventually managed to prussik back up and found an alternate way off. I hate abseiling and only do it if necessary.
The mind is a strange thing.
Post edited at 13:07
In reply to Trangia:
I've had a few moments, any of which could have been the end but somehow weren't. By far the most stupid was the time I soloed Wrinkle in the Pass. I was in a bad place emotionally, and had resorted to smoking large quantities of weed as a means of coping.
I hitched up the pass, smoked a fat one and then set off up the classic VD. The climbing felt easy and I was nicely relaxed as I reached the bit of the route, high up, with the funky hexagonal pipes. Grabbing the broken end of one of these as a handhold, as I stood up it smoothly pivoted away from the rock and I barn doored out into space. Time stood still, angels sang and my head filled with a strange roaring noise. Fortunately for me, the other end of the rock pipe stayed keyed in. Regaining some kind of equilibrium, I slotted it back into place, continued to the top and lay down looking up at the sky. I can remember feeling the texture of the grass on my hands as I lay there, shaking uncontrollably, thinking how lucky I was to get away with it.
I stopped soloing after that until I'd sorted my head out and grown up a bit. Whenever I'm in the Pass and I look up and see that distinctive band of rock up high, it gives me a little shiver and a reminder of what could so easily have been.
I've had a few moments, any of which could have been the end but somehow weren't. By far the most stupid was the time I soloed Wrinkle in the Pass. I was in a bad place emotionally, and had resorted to smoking large quantities of weed as a means of coping.
I hitched up the pass, smoked a fat one and then set off up the classic VD. The climbing felt easy and I was nicely relaxed as I reached the bit of the route, high up, with the funky hexagonal pipes. Grabbing the broken end of one of these as a handhold, as I stood up it smoothly pivoted away from the rock and I barn doored out into space. Time stood still, angels sang and my head filled with a strange roaring noise. Fortunately for me, the other end of the rock pipe stayed keyed in. Regaining some kind of equilibrium, I slotted it back into place, continued to the top and lay down looking up at the sky. I can remember feeling the texture of the grass on my hands as I lay there, shaking uncontrollably, thinking how lucky I was to get away with it.
I stopped soloing after that until I'd sorted my head out and grown up a bit. Whenever I'm in the Pass and I look up and see that distinctive band of rock up high, it gives me a little shiver and a reminder of what could so easily have been.
15
In reply to Trangia:
Climbing Devil's Chimney at Stanage one new years' day. I'd done it before and found it a tight squeeze but not too bad. It was damp, windy and just above freezing but I had to take my warm coat off to ensure being able to squeeze through. On getting into the narrow bit, the wind was being funneled fiercely into the chimney and I was rapidly losing body heat, I quickly lost the feeling in my hands and my arms were starting to lose their strength. At the point where you have to jam your body in a horizontal position and thrutch through the gap I felt the irresistible pull of gravity trying to jam my body into the V-shaped slot below me and my inability to fight it. I suddenly became terrified that I would die of hypothermia and be stuck in there forever, the surge of adrenalin came and the only option was an all out fight to exit the slot.
Much scarier than any fall I've ever contemplated (or taken).
Climbing Devil's Chimney at Stanage one new years' day. I'd done it before and found it a tight squeeze but not too bad. It was damp, windy and just above freezing but I had to take my warm coat off to ensure being able to squeeze through. On getting into the narrow bit, the wind was being funneled fiercely into the chimney and I was rapidly losing body heat, I quickly lost the feeling in my hands and my arms were starting to lose their strength. At the point where you have to jam your body in a horizontal position and thrutch through the gap I felt the irresistible pull of gravity trying to jam my body into the V-shaped slot below me and my inability to fight it. I suddenly became terrified that I would die of hypothermia and be stuck in there forever, the surge of adrenalin came and the only option was an all out fight to exit the slot.
Much scarier than any fall I've ever contemplated (or taken).
1
In reply to Al Evans:
That's what you get if you go to Cilan Head Al.
Did Vulture once, and that was enough to put me off permenantly.
New routing on sight there, utter madness
That's what you get if you go to Cilan Head Al.
Did Vulture once, and that was enough to put me off permenantly.
New routing on sight there, utter madness
1
In reply to Goucho:
Rat race is a great solo providibg the chimney is avoided by climbing right from the belay to enter the corner from below. Always wanted to solo the crux so scoped that variation out from gogarth.
Two experiences jump to mind for me, the first being a close call soloing millstones great arete on a warm sunny day. Edge lane and green death, being positive and secure, had felt fine, the balancey great arete not so. My hand slipped about an inch on the arete but i held it. Met my maker and told him i was having none of it. Was traumatised for a while after that.
Ive never told anyone about the second as i found it quite embarrassing (massive ego fail - no such thing was involved in great arete). I went for a training run on a cold windy day this feb/ march around burbage. Felt really unfit and my ego didnt like it so it decided a good consolation would be nosferatu, onsight solo. Something that had been on my mind though it was for totally the wrong reasons that day. Everything else was wet so i got straight on it, after a bit of up and down i committed with totally numb hands until just below the break. Unable to guage whether the holds were any good i couldn't move up or down. The wind was strong and the clock was ticking. It became a matter of where best to jump, which i did without much control. Thankfully the ground was muddy and slipping onto my arse on landing probably absorbed a lot of the impact. I hobbled home with my tail between my legs, thankful that my idiocy hadnt ruined my forthcoming trip to Alaska. That was the first and last time i tried to solo something for ego's sake.
Rat race is a great solo providibg the chimney is avoided by climbing right from the belay to enter the corner from below. Always wanted to solo the crux so scoped that variation out from gogarth.
Two experiences jump to mind for me, the first being a close call soloing millstones great arete on a warm sunny day. Edge lane and green death, being positive and secure, had felt fine, the balancey great arete not so. My hand slipped about an inch on the arete but i held it. Met my maker and told him i was having none of it. Was traumatised for a while after that.
Ive never told anyone about the second as i found it quite embarrassing (massive ego fail - no such thing was involved in great arete). I went for a training run on a cold windy day this feb/ march around burbage. Felt really unfit and my ego didnt like it so it decided a good consolation would be nosferatu, onsight solo. Something that had been on my mind though it was for totally the wrong reasons that day. Everything else was wet so i got straight on it, after a bit of up and down i committed with totally numb hands until just below the break. Unable to guage whether the holds were any good i couldn't move up or down. The wind was strong and the clock was ticking. It became a matter of where best to jump, which i did without much control. Thankfully the ground was muddy and slipping onto my arse on landing probably absorbed a lot of the impact. I hobbled home with my tail between my legs, thankful that my idiocy hadnt ruined my forthcoming trip to Alaska. That was the first and last time i tried to solo something for ego's sake.
2
In reply to Trangia:
First ever visit to Gimmer, first ever time with a double rope. Started late on, one September evening, mid 70's. Did a couple of routes then went for the Classic Rock 'Crack' tick. All smooth till the light was fading at about 15' above the Bower which I didn't use as a stance, thinking about the dusk. Somehow my wish to get out of there before dark deflected my attention from the ropes which were knitted like an uncle's cardy . Result: a stuck fast climber. I should've unclipped the nearest gear and reversed it and the next couple of badly placed kit as well to sort it. For a (still) unaccountable reason though I unroped and soloed to the top, from where I took Junipall Gully back to near the foot of the route; my mate (even less experienced than me) thought I was as bonkers as this story now feels: I asked him to throw one of the ropes down and I soloed up to get it....from whence I reascended the route (nothing so flash as a head-torch I might say) to the top of the crack and then tipped the spare rope down to my mate (who, for some odd reason, ceased to be so friendly after the episode). We got back down to ODG just as the towels were going on the pumps. Scary muppetry indeed. Subsequent reading of James McHaffie's episode on the minor classic that is Great Wall had no effect on me: I'd been there and done that on a real hard route. And I have reconfirmed my status as a prize t*sser every subsequent time I set foot on Gimmer.
First ever visit to Gimmer, first ever time with a double rope. Started late on, one September evening, mid 70's. Did a couple of routes then went for the Classic Rock 'Crack' tick. All smooth till the light was fading at about 15' above the Bower which I didn't use as a stance, thinking about the dusk. Somehow my wish to get out of there before dark deflected my attention from the ropes which were knitted like an uncle's cardy . Result: a stuck fast climber. I should've unclipped the nearest gear and reversed it and the next couple of badly placed kit as well to sort it. For a (still) unaccountable reason though I unroped and soloed to the top, from where I took Junipall Gully back to near the foot of the route; my mate (even less experienced than me) thought I was as bonkers as this story now feels: I asked him to throw one of the ropes down and I soloed up to get it....from whence I reascended the route (nothing so flash as a head-torch I might say) to the top of the crack and then tipped the spare rope down to my mate (who, for some odd reason, ceased to be so friendly after the episode). We got back down to ODG just as the towels were going on the pumps. Scary muppetry indeed. Subsequent reading of James McHaffie's episode on the minor classic that is Great Wall had no effect on me: I'd been there and done that on a real hard route. And I have reconfirmed my status as a prize t*sser every subsequent time I set foot on Gimmer.
3
In reply to Trangia:
Tank Quarry, Malvern. Nowhere near vertical, but falling from the top would be like tumbling down a cheese grater for 300'. Climbed it when I was 17, was within 20' of the top when everything I was standing on and holding just collapsed. Still don't know how I got to the top - by climbing faster than it crumbled away I suppose.
Tank Quarry, Malvern. Nowhere near vertical, but falling from the top would be like tumbling down a cheese grater for 300'. Climbed it when I was 17, was within 20' of the top when everything I was standing on and holding just collapsed. Still don't know how I got to the top - by climbing faster than it crumbled away I suppose.
2
In reply to Trangia: sorry but have to put two. First, abbing 50 feet off a sideways placed no. 4 Rock while escaping a dripping Kangaroo Wall at Wintours Leap, then flicking the rock out afterwards. Second, soloing doorpost at Bosigran on a scorching hot day having just led Thin Wall Special. Seemed a good idea at the time but it's a long way to the top and there is not much between you and the ground that wouldn't hurt.
In reply to nniff: but what an adventure. I have only good memories of this root, despite a large chunk of Swanage coming off in my hand and reminding me how steep it was as I flew off into space.
In reply to Gary Gibson:
Anything to do with abseiling at Wintours is terrifying. My mate Dave, who's 9 feet tall and weighs the same as a car, made me ab off a collection of saplings from someone's garden once. I was about 18 at the time and although I followed him so his 'redundancy' theory held true, I don't think I have ever descended so quickly.
Anything to do with abseiling at Wintours is terrifying. My mate Dave, who's 9 feet tall and weighs the same as a car, made me ab off a collection of saplings from someone's garden once. I was about 18 at the time and although I followed him so his 'redundancy' theory held true, I don't think I have ever descended so quickly.
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:
Climbed the lovely tank quarry only on Friday just gone. Boy, not fun. Well, it was: but it also could have been quite serious.
In fact I'm considering carrying stakes/mini ice aces for similar situations where hand holds consist of mud and drying grass.
Climbed the lovely tank quarry only on Friday just gone. Boy, not fun. Well, it was: but it also could have been quite serious.
In fact I'm considering carrying stakes/mini ice aces for similar situations where hand holds consist of mud and drying grass.
In reply to blackmountainbiker:
Perfect, no gear lost!
> abbing 50 feet off a sideways placed no. 4 Rock while escaping a dripping Kangaroo Wall at Wintours Leap, then flicking the rock out afterwards.
Perfect, no gear lost!
3
In reply to Trangia:
Crag Point. Seaton Sluice. There's some old war caves that you used to be able to access if you climbed about 10 foot up the crag. We used to hang out there quite a lot. One time, instead of climbing back down to sea level my mate decided we would climb to the top of the crag instead. Easily the most terrifying experience I've ever had. Damp sloping ledges and holds covered in sand with a guaranteed hospital visit if we fell. Took what seemed a lifetime to make each move. Up till then I'd never really considered the potential consequences of soloing.
Crag Point. Seaton Sluice. There's some old war caves that you used to be able to access if you climbed about 10 foot up the crag. We used to hang out there quite a lot. One time, instead of climbing back down to sea level my mate decided we would climb to the top of the crag instead. Easily the most terrifying experience I've ever had. Damp sloping ledges and holds covered in sand with a guaranteed hospital visit if we fell. Took what seemed a lifetime to make each move. Up till then I'd never really considered the potential consequences of soloing.
In reply to graeme jackson:
Crag point was my first climbing experience and our crag of choice given we had no transport! Climbed there all year round , even tried bivvying on a ledge above the sea just to see what it would be like! Loads of near misses with loose rock and vertical sand and home made gear, but a couple of really good routes too. Used an old poker with a ring top as a belay stake til it snapped....
Crag point was my first climbing experience and our crag of choice given we had no transport! Climbed there all year round , even tried bivvying on a ledge above the sea just to see what it would be like! Loads of near misses with loose rock and vertical sand and home made gear, but a couple of really good routes too. Used an old poker with a ring top as a belay stake til it snapped....
In reply to Trangia:
Berlin at Brownspear Point in North Devon; a whole month's supply of adrenaline used on one pitch but an amazing experience. The sea long ago shuffled the pack (see guide book) so it is no more.
Berlin at Brownspear Point in North Devon; a whole month's supply of adrenaline used on one pitch but an amazing experience. The sea long ago shuffled the pack (see guide book) so it is no more.
In reply to Gerry:
I love that place: Mainsail, Up the Ante and The Wager were all brilliant! Hotpoint on the north slope gave a very special experience; most of the pegs missing, felt like a thousand feet of exposure and crimping hard on little stuck on quartz intrusions and seeing great dishes of the parent rock flexing and lifting out as you went breathlessly past....
I love that place: Mainsail, Up the Ante and The Wager were all brilliant! Hotpoint on the north slope gave a very special experience; most of the pegs missing, felt like a thousand feet of exposure and crimping hard on little stuck on quartz intrusions and seeing great dishes of the parent rock flexing and lifting out as you went breathlessly past....
In reply to Trangia:
A hot summer’s day at Bosigran. The first half of the first pitch of Thin Wall Special had unfolded quite nicely with interesting moves by reasonable small gear. Halfway was a small triangular roof with a good stonking gear placement – a Moac, I think. I tried the next move up the thin crack above but it seemed very hard. The guide described a variant, The Chicken Run, so I set off on that without thinking too much about the name. I moved up right into a shallow scoop, which had no gear, but surely the next groove would have something? I managed to teeter into it, but no, nothing. The heat was getting to me, I didn’t feel great, and the tension was ratcheting up. Tim, belaying me down below, was talking to friends. I considered shouting ‘Watch me!’ but thought that if I did I might lose it. And so it went on, insecure climbing with no gear above half height, until I pulled gratefully onto a ledge and sidled sideways to the belay. As my vision telescoped in I just managed to sink a large hex in the crack.
A hot summer’s day at Bosigran. The first half of the first pitch of Thin Wall Special had unfolded quite nicely with interesting moves by reasonable small gear. Halfway was a small triangular roof with a good stonking gear placement – a Moac, I think. I tried the next move up the thin crack above but it seemed very hard. The guide described a variant, The Chicken Run, so I set off on that without thinking too much about the name. I moved up right into a shallow scoop, which had no gear, but surely the next groove would have something? I managed to teeter into it, but no, nothing. The heat was getting to me, I didn’t feel great, and the tension was ratcheting up. Tim, belaying me down below, was talking to friends. I considered shouting ‘Watch me!’ but thought that if I did I might lose it. And so it went on, insecure climbing with no gear above half height, until I pulled gratefully onto a ledge and sidled sideways to the belay. As my vision telescoped in I just managed to sink a large hex in the crack.
3
In reply to Nigel Coe:
Yes I remember it well, and I recall a reachy move to get to safety that gave me a long pause for thought. I think I fiddled a tiny RP in somewhere near the top but it was purely for psychological support.
> And so it went on, insecure climbing with no gear above half height, until I pulled gratefully onto a ledge and sidled sideways to the belay. As my vision telescoped in I just managed to sink a large hex in the crack.
Yes I remember it well, and I recall a reachy move to get to safety that gave me a long pause for thought. I think I fiddled a tiny RP in somewhere near the top but it was purely for psychological support.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Belayed to a single poor friend in a vertical icy crack and watching it walk around/down whilst Tom Proctor prussicked up with the rucksacs. Time to watch and get more and more scared, as opposed to a sudden scary moment.
Dragged of fixed ropes by an avalanche on K2 and buried, luckily not too deeply
Belayed to a single poor friend in a vertical icy crack and watching it walk around/down whilst Tom Proctor prussicked up with the rucksacs. Time to watch and get more and more scared, as opposed to a sudden scary moment.
Dragged of fixed ropes by an avalanche on K2 and buried, luckily not too deeply
In reply to rocksol:
I did not think a " like " was an appropriate reaction to this post, Phil.
Is this the winner ?
A lot of readers may not appreciate the position of this scenario.
( Rolo's Patagonia Vertical guide is my toilet reading of choice ATM )
> Belayed to a single poor friend in a vertical icy crack and watching it walk around/down whilst Tom Proctor prussicked up with the rucksacs. Time to watch and get more and more scared, as opposed to a sudden scary moment.
I did not think a " like " was an appropriate reaction to this post, Phil.
Is this the winner ?
A lot of readers may not appreciate the position of this scenario.
( Rolo's Patagonia Vertical guide is my toilet reading of choice ATM )
Post edited at 12:08
In reply to Rick Graham:
There is no winner, it's not a competition. Let's face it, most of these stories are because we f***ed up and got away with it.
Mark Twain — 'Good judgement is the result of experience and experience the result of bad judgement.'
There is no winner, it's not a competition. Let's face it, most of these stories are because we f***ed up and got away with it.
Mark Twain — 'Good judgement is the result of experience and experience the result of bad judgement.'
3
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Well that makes three of us with the same experience on Thin Wall Special's "Chicken Run". No doubt there are many more in the club. What possibly makes my own experience noteworthy is that it was my first E1. It was around 1980. I placed a very early model micro-nut that wouldn't have held anything I fear.
Martin
Well that makes three of us with the same experience on Thin Wall Special's "Chicken Run". No doubt there are many more in the club. What possibly makes my own experience noteworthy is that it was my first E1. It was around 1980. I placed a very early model micro-nut that wouldn't have held anything I fear.
Martin
In reply to Trangia:
Probably leading the top pitch of The Verger at Blackchurch, I can understand it getting E2 5a in the original guide....there is good gear in the initial crack then face climbing of no great difficulty, with no positive gear...I hung around for ages before stepping left to the arete.... wasn't worried about my climbing ability, just thought something would come away...at the worse part it could have been a 60 - 80 footer if I had lobbed off, although I wouldn't have hit anything on the way down...also, the approach, the isolation, the sea, the vegetation and looseness all adds to the intimidating experience...it's a hell of a crag....quite unique I would say.....
Probably leading the top pitch of The Verger at Blackchurch, I can understand it getting E2 5a in the original guide....there is good gear in the initial crack then face climbing of no great difficulty, with no positive gear...I hung around for ages before stepping left to the arete.... wasn't worried about my climbing ability, just thought something would come away...at the worse part it could have been a 60 - 80 footer if I had lobbed off, although I wouldn't have hit anything on the way down...also, the approach, the isolation, the sea, the vegetation and looseness all adds to the intimidating experience...it's a hell of a crag....quite unique I would say.....
1
In reply to Trangia:
I forget the route, but it was descending (by means of multipe abseils) something big in the Dolomites. Pulling the ropes through at the belay station, with one out of sight, it was clear the other had become stuck.
After attempts to free it, I drew the short straw and climbed back up to the anchor with a tibloc on the free rope. Not hard climbing (I think the descent was down a French 5-something route) but very high, and very lonely.
I forget the route, but it was descending (by means of multipe abseils) something big in the Dolomites. Pulling the ropes through at the belay station, with one out of sight, it was clear the other had become stuck.
After attempts to free it, I drew the short straw and climbed back up to the anchor with a tibloc on the free rope. Not hard climbing (I think the descent was down a French 5-something route) but very high, and very lonely.
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