UKC

Petzl Dart vs Lynx vs G20

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 SteveJC94 28 Nov 2015
I've had a pair of petzl lynx for 3 years and I'm thinking of upgrading now. I've used them exclusively on monopoint for all types of route so the obvious upgrade is the dart or grivel G20. Boots wise to fit Scarpa Phantom 6000.
Has anyone got any feedback as to whether the reduction in weight is worth the financial hit of upgrading.

Cheers
Steve
 climber34neil 28 Nov 2015
In reply to SteveJC94:

I have had all 3 of those crampons and to be honest I felt I upgraded to the lynx. Personally I would stick with those as I find they are brilliant at everything and the others are just a bit to focused on one thing. Also I had problems with the darts popping off occasionally and the g20 looks like Mr burns from the simpsons! I guess for an ultra light set up then there are advantages but not enough to make a real world difference for me
 Mr. Lee 28 Nov 2015
In reply to SteveJC94:

Would a less bulky boot not improve your performance more?
OP SteveJC94 28 Nov 2015
In reply to Mr. Lee:

Trouble is i get cold feet and the only other option for winter alpine/multi day is the Spantik which is heavier
 TobyA 28 Nov 2015
In reply to SteveJC94:

> Trouble is i get cold feet

A mate was saying his Phantom 6000s climb just as well as his lighter single boots and of course you don't worry about frostbite! I've climbed ice as hard in my Sportiva Baruntses (doubles) as I have in my Trangos. I suspect for most of us not climbing the absolutest hardest stuff, having warm toes is better for doing well than saving 200 grams!
In reply to SteveJC94:
G20s climb brilliantly but they can ball up in some soft snow conditions so would not perhaps be my first choice for really big and serious mountain routes.
Post edited at 22:54
1
OP SteveJC94 29 Nov 2015
In reply to TobyA:

Yep I've found the 6000s great for up to scottish VI and as you said warm toes in a bulkier boot definitely make me climb harder. If only the same was true for gloves!

Cheers for all the feedback guys. Think I'll drop by nevisport next weekend and have a play around with a couple of models before I take the plunge
 CurlyStevo 29 Nov 2015
In reply to TobyA:
> A mate was saying his Phantom 6000s climb just as well as his lighter single boots and of course you don't worry about frostbite! I've climbed ice as hard in my Sportiva Baruntses (doubles) as I have in my Trangos. I suspect for most of us not climbing the absolutest hardest stuff, having warm toes is better for doing well than saving 200 grams!

Its more like 800 grams compared to a light pair of boots, whilst switching crampons would only save 250 grams. Personally I'd stick with what the OP has got on both counts if he is already happy with it, but it seems like a false economy getting lighter crampons on such a heavy boot to me.
Post edited at 13:53
 HeMa 29 Nov 2015
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> but it seems like a false economy getting lighter crampons on such a heavy boot to me.

I do agree, you need to get a really light package (poons & shoes) to get the real advantage.

That said, switching to a lighter crampon might be advised if the fit and point configuration are better...
In reply to SteveJC94:

I'm interested that you're climbing technical stuff in Phantom 6000's, do you have any hot tips on getting a good solid fit? I find my Phantom 6000's a bit sloppy, I can't get my foot locked down properly with just the token power strap above the ankle. I wish they laced all the way up on the outer boot like my Phantom Guides.
OP SteveJC94 29 Nov 2015
In reply to highaltitudebarista:

I've got quite a wide ankle so I think that helps to avoid slipping. The only change I've made is wrapping a thin (2-3mm) piece of accessory cord round the velcro strap and tying it in a reef knot. Seems to keep them on fairly tight as long as I crank the laces up after the walk in
Aldaris 08 Dec 2015
In reply to SteveJC94:

What about a pair of Black Diamond Stingers?

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