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Why is it so hard to do the Seam

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 rogerwebb 30 Nov 2015
Today, like many days I failed to do the Seam.

I have walked in and found it black, I have walked in and my partner has been sick, I have walked in and I have been sick, we have been blown off our feet, caught up in a rescue and called home by a domestic emergency, we have walked in and failed to start for reasons I no longer can remember. Today all was well, weather ok, conditions ok right up to the point my partner went for a swim in a burn. He got soaked.

A very kind party offered to let us overtake them, (thank you so much), but my partner was to damp for waiting on belays. After a quick run up Fiacaill Couloir ended in swift retreat below the early season chockstone, we met the very competent pair who had been first up the route today. They told us 'it's the best route in the corrie'. Thanks guys.....

The Seam ought not to be a problem, it is only an hour from my house to the car park, it ought to be within my competency but it continues to elude me.

I need some assistance all superstitions, magic spells, hippy stuff, karma gratefully received.



(On the plus side I did meet some very nice people today)
 French Erick 30 Nov 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:
Let's go and do it by night. May be your issue is to try it when it's easy!

 DaveHK 30 Nov 2015
In reply to French Erick:

I'm up for that instead of the wall one week.
OP rogerwebb 30 Nov 2015
In reply to French Erick:

I like your thinking.

 James Edwards 30 Nov 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:
The Seam... Hmm let me think... I think that I have only done that one about 4 times, so I can't remember too much about it, but have you considered that it might just be too hard for you? I read recently that you only do routes where there is at least a difference of 3 between the overall and the technical grade.
Ha ha!
OP rogerwebb 30 Nov 2015
In reply to James Edwards:

It's getting to the start that's the problem James.

Mind you once I get there......
In reply to rogerwebb:

I didn't think it was that hard.
 mike barnard 30 Nov 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:

I have a similar thing going with Hooker's Corner. Once my partner got soaked in a bog, another time I crashed the car, the 'third time lucky' the weather was too wild and a Savage Slit repeat seemed more appealing (though it must have been bad as we only did the bottom half).
 French Erick 30 Nov 2015
In reply to DaveHK:

never done it. How is it to find? We would be late back home...but not against the idea.
OP rogerwebb 30 Nov 2015
In reply to mike barnard:

That is strangely comforting
 DaveHK 30 Nov 2015
In reply to French Erick:

Should be doable but need a good forecast etc.
 John Lyall 30 Nov 2015
In reply to rogerwebb: It must be rubbish if James has done it four times - so probably best not to bother !

 French Erick 30 Nov 2015
In reply to DaveHK:

When is the next full moon? We could check forecast around then and see...
 DaveHK 30 Nov 2015
In reply to French Erick:

It was full last week I think.
OP rogerwebb 30 Nov 2015
In reply to John Lyall:

> It must be rubbish if James has done it four times - so probably best not to bother !

Too late for that!
In reply to French Erick:

If Dave can't make it that night, you could ask Rodger, think he also what's to do it?

Stuart

Ps. Stayed at home yesterday

ian stewart 01 Dec 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:

What do they say in the Guinness adverts, 'good things come to those who wait", something like that.

Sorry to rub it in yesterday, but it is a great route. I'm sure it will be worth it once you finally get there!! Enjoy
 planetmarshall 01 Dec 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:

> Today, like many days I failed to do the Seam.

It took me two attempts. The first time, when leading the initial pitch up to the chimney crack, I fell back down to the belay, twisted my ankle and limped out of the Coire.

The second attempt, I led the whole thing but still found that pitch before the chimney incredibly sketchy - and far harder than the rest of the climb.
 Sophie G. 01 Dec 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:
My problem was the converse: when Henning and I did The Seam in March 2008, the question was not whether we could get to and up the route, it was whether we could get back afterwards. The day started OK but the weather blew up on us. We put the rope back on and slogged through deep drifts in a white out in the dark with 50mph gusts, on a compass-bearing which took us straight over a boulder-field with deep slits between the boulders. Worst walk-out ever. I've never been so glad to see the Cairngorm Mountain Railway.

I'd love to do it again, it is an absolutely brilliant route. Drop me a line if you fancy a new partner for it. I'm a very nice person too.
Post edited at 16:43
OP rogerwebb 01 Dec 2015
In reply to ian stewart:

>

> Sorry to rub it in yesterday

No worries; but you were guilty of flaunting youthful enthusiasm!

OP rogerwebb 01 Dec 2015
In reply to Sophie G.:

>
> I'd love to do it again, it is an absolutely brilliant route. Drop me a line if you fancy a new partner for it. I'm a very nice person too.

Gary and I may well take you up on your kind offer, be warned however my evil side is considering starting with multiple partners so that we can afford to lose a few on the walk in.



 Sophie G. 01 Dec 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:

> my evil side is considering starting with multiple partners so that we can afford to lose a few on the walk in.

I thought everyone did that.

 Lone Rider 03 Dec 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:
Hi Roger you obviously have not asked me! Remember I don't climb if there is a chance of the conditions being crap so if you ask me and I agree it is bound to be just right, this will dramatically increase your chances of getting to the bottom of the route for a start.

Can't remember if I have done the Seam or not so it will be a new experience for us both what ever.

Martin
Post edited at 16:50
 gavmac 03 Dec 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:

My second ever winter route Roger, come to think of it my second ever multi pitch. Great route
 Al Walker 03 Dec 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:

Wouldn't have been the delightful Mr K who fell in the water would it Roger? Just wondering........
OP rogerwebb 03 Dec 2015
In reply to Al Walker:

Correct!
 Timmd 03 Dec 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:
You need to pretend to whatever it is that you don't really want to climb it, and go out for walk with your climbing gear, before the fates realise you'll be most of the way up.
Post edited at 19:35
 Al Walker 03 Dec 2015
In reply to rogerwebb:

Excellent..... will have to watch out for that ploy next time he's here !! May even use it myself !!!!
OP rogerwebb 03 Dec 2015
In reply to Lone Rider:

Good point.

We will conscript you.
OP rogerwebb 03 Dec 2015
In reply to Timmd:

> You need to pretend to whatever it is that you don't really want to climb it, and go out for walk with your climbing gear, before the fates realise you'll be most of the way up.

We were going to try that this morning, got as far as Gary's house before checking the webcams...

I think that may count as another failure
1
 BusyLizzie 03 Dec 2015
In reply to Sophie G.:

... and then you wonder why I won't go winter climbing with you
xx

OP rogerwebb 03 Dec 2015
In reply to gavmac:

> My second ever winter route Roger, come to think of it my second ever multi pitch. Great route

You, Ian and Mr Marshall are all guilty of too much competence, one day your Seam will get you!

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