UKC

Hi guys, after the cold snap I've been getting through lots of reports of conditions all over northern Italy. This morning I saw that there have been alpine ascents in the Pale di San Martino and also of Clean Gully on Torre Innerkofler reporting good conditions. https://www.facebook.com/casa.alfredino/posts/970259249712432

Unfortunately it looks as though a Foehn wind bringing high wind and warm temperatures is set to blow for a few days which may make ice which has formed low down recede a bit. Hopefully it won't strip all of it, but it does look like near on a week of warmer than normal temperatures. It does look like that by next wednesday things will start to improve again with the jetstream swinging towards the med which in theory could bring snow, although its a long way off to be making predictions like that... here's hoping! At least the high mountain conditions will most likely improve with some freeze thaw.

On the skiing front, the snow cannons have been blowing snow for well over a week now with many of the ski runs looking complete and they are planning on opening the Sellaronda by the end of the week.

Cheers,

Mike

In reply to Casa Alfredino:

Your picture reference produced Clean Climb on Monte Nero, in the Presanella Group, a granite area to the west of the Dolomites (and a little known paradise for those who like scratching about in winter). In fact if these dry conditions persist the North Face of the Adamello could soon be condition (and the ultra classic north of the Ortler and even the Grande Zebru). In other words for as long as there is virtually no snow we have Alpine Scottish conditions.

I heard that some ice falls have been climbed in Val Malena, and reasonably well formed. That's Cima d'Asta, another granite area in the middle of the general Dolomites territory and one of the most reliable, although unfortunately not a major venue.
It has remained cold since then, but the outlook is for high freezing levels and pleasant sunny weather from this weekend until .... Christmas maybe (they say).

And don't forget the Dolomites "Get Out of Goal Free" card - infinite big wall rock climbing, basking in the sun in Val di Sarca among the olive groves.

In reply to Erstwhile:
Ha what a wally - I misread and saw Clean Gully which IS on Torre Innerkofler...

In reply to Casa Alfredino:

Got an update to the current conditions in the Serrai di Sottoguda Serrai di Sottoguda Absolutely no snow other than manufactured snow on pistes, but the ice has been forming steadily even at quite low altitude. Take a look here: http://www.casa-alfredino.co.uk/uncategorized/serrai-di-sottoguda-condition...

In reply to Casa Alfredino:

So I've just returned from several weeks at the house. As I was leaving the snow finaly was arriving and we've now had some improvement on that front which looks set to continue. As the Jetstream has finally swung south we are beginning to see normal conditions in the Alps and the ice which has formed is set to improve with very cold temperatures forecast over the next weeks. Currently there are the following routes which are in good condition and which I've either seen with my own eyes or have reports from other climbers as being confirmed in condition:

Serrai di Sottoguda:

Excalibur in and fattening.
Catedrale routes - left has seen ascents, central as well with a slightly early escape rightwards. All base routes there to some degree.
Cascata della attraversate - in and fattening
Cascata del Sole - thin on the final section but fattening
Spada nella Roccia - not seen ascents and the top out to the ledge is thin for a metre or so, but this should fill in quickly
Clessidra - in and fattening
Arbre Magique - very close now
All the low volume watercourses have suffered from the lack of rain during October and November, but with the news nows should now begin to form with the extra water provided by melt water on South facing aspects.

Digonera and Laste:
Cascata di Laste - in and seeing regular ascents
Cascata di Digonera - a long way off when we left and needs substantial melt water to form now. May not get there this season?
Adrenalina seen to be formed from a distance leading me to believe that Cascata di Moe and and Rama di destra and Sinistra should also be a possibility.

Val di Gares:
Tre per Tre looked close to being formed about two weeks ago and the extra snow should help it on it's way, meaning that Ringo will also be a goer.

Civetta:
Both Hypercoldai and Paparogia have seen recent ascents with good conditions reported.

Corvara:
Good conditions reported on Spada di Damocles reported and other ascents have been reported.

Val Corpassa: things at the head of the valley were seen to be forming but need more time, and Cascata di Nevere seemed a way off forming yet - the top pitches seemed to be holding ice but with it's lower altitude this is hardly surprising. With the new cold I think it is a matter of weeks before this venue comes good.

Marmolada: Comelle di Boug looked fat from the road and Tre per Tre seemed at least partially complete although it's hard to tell from a distance.

In summary, plenty to be going at. We've got the Ice climbing festival happening on the weekend of the 16th and are running a 20% discount on our prices during January!

In reply to Casa Alfredino:

Just back from a weeks ice climbing and we went to the Serrai quite frequently. Despite unusually warm temperatures, it's been holding up well, and with the new dump of snow happening as we speak, things are set to improve once more. Although the lines are thinner than normal, all the usualy suspects are doing well, with the Catedrale well formed and receiving many ascents, as is Excalibur and Spada nella Roccia. Elsewhere, cascata di Nevere in Val Corpassa was thin at the start but the upper reaches were in good condition. Paparoga and Hypercoldai have also been recieving regular ascents and Alta Badia is also reportedly in good condition. I saw Cascata di Laste from the distance and it looked very good, whilst Cascata di Moe was there but not that extensive.

Skiing, the pistes previous to this week were mainly artificial snow but that has now changed with the current storms taking place - 70-100cm of snow forecast by now and a further storm tomorrow, so things finally seem to be shaping up a little better.