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So it's December and I'm guessing most people's thoughts are turning to Winter or indoor training for next year.
So how was your 2015 on rock? Reflections on highlights, frustrations, epic tales all welcome.
For me highlights would be:
* The wonderful La ley del deseo (6a) in April Mallorcan sunshine.
* Sunny days on Portland West Coast, Rhossili and Baggy Point.
* A smooth lead of Bludgeon (HVS 5a) at Stennis Head.
* Esoteric adventure finding and climbing Lost Souls (VS 4c) at the Halsewell Bars, Swanage.
* The surprising excellence of Don't Jis on my Sofa (6a+) at Barland Quarry, Gower.
Frustrations ...as expected another year of treading water grade wise, looking after a toddler seems fairly incompatible with investing the time required to make a serious improvement. Just good to keep getting out there though.
So how was your 2015 on rock? Reflections on highlights, frustrations, epic tales all welcome.
For me highlights would be:
* The wonderful La ley del deseo (6a) in April Mallorcan sunshine.
* Sunny days on Portland West Coast, Rhossili and Baggy Point.
* A smooth lead of Bludgeon (HVS 5a) at Stennis Head.
* Esoteric adventure finding and climbing Lost Souls (VS 4c) at the Halsewell Bars, Swanage.
* The surprising excellence of Don't Jis on my Sofa (6a+) at Barland Quarry, Gower.
Frustrations ...as expected another year of treading water grade wise, looking after a toddler seems fairly incompatible with investing the time required to make a serious improvement. Just good to keep getting out there though.
2
In reply to The Ivanator:
No.
Still outdoors on rock.
Keep rocking.
> So it's December and I'm guessing most people's thoughts are turning to Winter or indoor training for next year.
No.
Still outdoors on rock.
Keep rocking.
9
3
In reply to Urgles:
It's still my intention to get out again this year, but with limited weather windows and short daylight I'm not expecting my most memorable days to come in December ...but who knows?
11/12 months have elapsed though, so there may be something worth reflecting on?
It's still my intention to get out again this year, but with limited weather windows and short daylight I'm not expecting my most memorable days to come in December ...but who knows?
11/12 months have elapsed though, so there may be something worth reflecting on?
1
In reply to The Ivanator:
My years stats...
Total routes - 247
Climbing Days - 94
Crags visited - 50
Notable trips - Arolla, Verdon Gorge, Bosigran, Cairngorms Winter, Torridon Summer, North Wales Winter
Favourite climbs of the year - Gargoyle Flake at Bamford, La Grogne at Verdon, Freedom at Wintours Leap, all the routes I managed in Cwm Idwal this winter, 3x mountaineering days on the East face of Tryfan.
Mostly a good year for climbing, grade is improving and generally getting out a lot.
Frustrations...
The wind in the Cairngorms, the rain in North Wales, the rain and lightning in the Swiss Alps, the blistering heat after we decided to give up on our alpine dreams and drive to Verdon instead!
Epic tale...
Hauling my female climbing partner out of the Verdon Gorge after we abseiled in, pulled the ropes down, I led out and she decided she couldnt climb it.
My years stats...
Total routes - 247
Climbing Days - 94
Crags visited - 50
Notable trips - Arolla, Verdon Gorge, Bosigran, Cairngorms Winter, Torridon Summer, North Wales Winter
Favourite climbs of the year - Gargoyle Flake at Bamford, La Grogne at Verdon, Freedom at Wintours Leap, all the routes I managed in Cwm Idwal this winter, 3x mountaineering days on the East face of Tryfan.
Mostly a good year for climbing, grade is improving and generally getting out a lot.
Frustrations...
The wind in the Cairngorms, the rain in North Wales, the rain and lightning in the Swiss Alps, the blistering heat after we decided to give up on our alpine dreams and drive to Verdon instead!
Epic tale...
Hauling my female climbing partner out of the Verdon Gorge after we abseiled in, pulled the ropes down, I led out and she decided she couldnt climb it.
Post edited at 11:08
5
In reply to The Ivanator:
I started of with new year in majorca, thinking It'd be a great place in September for dws, but the grading was harsh.
Malta instead of Reiff because of the weather at the start of June was okay because we could get some dives done too, the trad seemed neglected, which was a shame.
Two weeks in lofoten was the highlight, with west pillaren putting the biggest smile on my face amongst many. Weather dictates the success of a trip, it seemed that the poor Scottish weather was compensated by good weather in Norway.
Scotland had some good days out, Cumming croften, East buttress, the pause again, but in October. The weather never seemed great. .. hopefully next year! (Or a good winter)
I started of with new year in majorca, thinking It'd be a great place in September for dws, but the grading was harsh.
Malta instead of Reiff because of the weather at the start of June was okay because we could get some dives done too, the trad seemed neglected, which was a shame.
Two weeks in lofoten was the highlight, with west pillaren putting the biggest smile on my face amongst many. Weather dictates the success of a trip, it seemed that the poor Scottish weather was compensated by good weather in Norway.
Scotland had some good days out, Cumming croften, East buttress, the pause again, but in October. The weather never seemed great. .. hopefully next year! (Or a good winter)
2
In reply to The Ivanator:
So a good year for me... Climbed a bit last year after about 10 years off, but only sporadically. Started this year really motivated but in an absolutely shocking place with my head - backing off anything and everything. Having to get lowered off straightforward routes when seconding.
Kept plugging away and it started to come back. Couple of noteable evenings in the Wiltons or Windgather - notable as it was about 18 years since I'd been able to climb outdoors outside after work. First time it clicked was on Portfolio (HVS 5a) and then Shivers Arete (E1 5b). Also ticked off a few classics I'd never tried before - things like Gargoyle Flake (VS 4c) and Christmas Crack (HS 4a), plus a few days in the Lakes, Northumberland and Pembroke. Getting out of my Peak-grit-comfort zone seemed to help with my confidence and high point of the year was San Melas (E3 5c), a route I'd always said I'd never lead as it was too bold up there
So definitely a year of progression for me. Still keen to get outside when the conditions allow, but will have a winter of improving my strength and will boulder more than I've done previously.
So a good year for me... Climbed a bit last year after about 10 years off, but only sporadically. Started this year really motivated but in an absolutely shocking place with my head - backing off anything and everything. Having to get lowered off straightforward routes when seconding.
Kept plugging away and it started to come back. Couple of noteable evenings in the Wiltons or Windgather - notable as it was about 18 years since I'd been able to climb outdoors outside after work. First time it clicked was on Portfolio (HVS 5a) and then Shivers Arete (E1 5b). Also ticked off a few classics I'd never tried before - things like Gargoyle Flake (VS 4c) and Christmas Crack (HS 4a), plus a few days in the Lakes, Northumberland and Pembroke. Getting out of my Peak-grit-comfort zone seemed to help with my confidence and high point of the year was San Melas (E3 5c), a route I'd always said I'd never lead as it was too bold up there
So definitely a year of progression for me. Still keen to get outside when the conditions allow, but will have a winter of improving my strength and will boulder more than I've done previously.
2
In reply to The Ivanator:
I think I have had my most satisfying year of rock climbing ever in 2015, with lots of (sport and bouldering) mileage and a variety of new and excellent partners, as well as being lucky enough to keep my old ones. Particular highlights include...
*...coming back to a boulder problem (Bloodlust (V6)) I spent many ambitious, happy but ultimately fruitless sessions on in 2009, to send it in an afternoon! It was a wonderful feeling; surprisingly emotional.
*...racing the Norwegian winter to get my sport projects done; 2 7b routes, which is a grade I never thought I'd climb anywhere near.
*...spending a week on Lofoten; whilst I didn't do any famous routes, it was a spectacular experience.
*(slight cheat)...last Christmas, ground upping Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b) in sleet and howling wind, with my 2 longest standing climbing partners. Flipping wonderful!!
I think I have had my most satisfying year of rock climbing ever in 2015, with lots of (sport and bouldering) mileage and a variety of new and excellent partners, as well as being lucky enough to keep my old ones. Particular highlights include...
*...coming back to a boulder problem (Bloodlust (V6)) I spent many ambitious, happy but ultimately fruitless sessions on in 2009, to send it in an afternoon! It was a wonderful feeling; surprisingly emotional.
*...racing the Norwegian winter to get my sport projects done; 2 7b routes, which is a grade I never thought I'd climb anywhere near.
*...spending a week on Lofoten; whilst I didn't do any famous routes, it was a spectacular experience.
*(slight cheat)...last Christmas, ground upping Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b) in sleet and howling wind, with my 2 longest standing climbing partners. Flipping wonderful!!
3
In reply to Urgles:
Do you have some sort of crag-scale umbrella deployed somewhere?
> No.
> Still outdoors on rock.
> Keep rocking.
Do you have some sort of crag-scale umbrella deployed somewhere?
3
In reply to The Ivanator:
Bit pants this year. Had a few trips, mostly local stuff though. My climbing mainly this year has been focussed on my 8 year old daughter who has started leading, so my grades have dropped to climb with her and my climbing had fallen by the wayside. Such is life! We did do Bosigran Ridge together, that was very good. Now it's winter, and I'm training indoors like a monster so I can start next year a little more focussed on my climbing. At least that's the plan.
Bit pants this year. Had a few trips, mostly local stuff though. My climbing mainly this year has been focussed on my 8 year old daughter who has started leading, so my grades have dropped to climb with her and my climbing had fallen by the wayside. Such is life! We did do Bosigran Ridge together, that was very good. Now it's winter, and I'm training indoors like a monster so I can start next year a little more focussed on my climbing. At least that's the plan.
In reply to The Ivanator:
It's been a good climbing year in some ways. Quality rather than quantity - I can count the number of days on rock on two hands (and a foot).
My wife and I had our first child in January, but after six weeks or so I started going down the wall again once a week and I've tried to fit as much yoga/HIIT/running/core training etc into my lunch breaks as I can. I've been careful about diet too, so even though I'm the least active of my entire adult life I'm the lightest I've ever been - and not just because of the muscle wastage. When you don't have time for training at least you can control what you eat, so I'm enjoying my lowest body fat % for a long time.
The result has been that when I have managed to get out I've not climbed too badly.
Highlights:
Spending my 37th birthday at Cratcliffe, where I onsighted Fern Hill and Five Finger Exercise, routes I'd wanted to do for a while.
Suicide Wall and Thin Wall Special down at Bosigran - stunning routes!
Billy Whizz at Lawrencefield. Again, a much desired route, psyched for the onsight.
A crack at the Stanage VS challenge in May: we did 25 before we had to get back to our wives and kids for dinner.
All of those have been with my brother in law, which has been great.
Oh, I also had a week in Font in June. Didn't log any ticks on here so I forgot about that one. First time there, and with three other families with young kids it sure was an adventure! Really enjoyed it. Didn't climb anything hard but loved it.
So, all things considered, with a new baby and the associated complete life revolution that's been I've enjoyed the year and have nothing to complain about. Next year we're finally going to be achieving a long-held goal of relocating from Suffolk to Sheffield, so hopefully this time next year I'll be reflecting on my E5 onsights
It's been a good climbing year in some ways. Quality rather than quantity - I can count the number of days on rock on two hands (and a foot).
My wife and I had our first child in January, but after six weeks or so I started going down the wall again once a week and I've tried to fit as much yoga/HIIT/running/core training etc into my lunch breaks as I can. I've been careful about diet too, so even though I'm the least active of my entire adult life I'm the lightest I've ever been - and not just because of the muscle wastage. When you don't have time for training at least you can control what you eat, so I'm enjoying my lowest body fat % for a long time.
The result has been that when I have managed to get out I've not climbed too badly.
Highlights:
Spending my 37th birthday at Cratcliffe, where I onsighted Fern Hill and Five Finger Exercise, routes I'd wanted to do for a while.
Suicide Wall and Thin Wall Special down at Bosigran - stunning routes!
Billy Whizz at Lawrencefield. Again, a much desired route, psyched for the onsight.
A crack at the Stanage VS challenge in May: we did 25 before we had to get back to our wives and kids for dinner.
All of those have been with my brother in law, which has been great.
Oh, I also had a week in Font in June. Didn't log any ticks on here so I forgot about that one. First time there, and with three other families with young kids it sure was an adventure! Really enjoyed it. Didn't climb anything hard but loved it.
So, all things considered, with a new baby and the associated complete life revolution that's been I've enjoyed the year and have nothing to complain about. Next year we're finally going to be achieving a long-held goal of relocating from Suffolk to Sheffield, so hopefully this time next year I'll be reflecting on my E5 onsights
Post edited at 12:55
2
In reply to The Ivanator:
This has been one of my worst years on record. Slow start due to a house move in the Spring, a week in S France sports climbing and then a week in the Lakes in July immediately following which I tore some knee ligaments. Other than the odd bit of climbing when I really shouldn't have, that saw me through to the last few weeks when my knee finally feels about 90% ok. Since then, the weekend weather has been pretty appalling but I've slowly been regaining fitness at the wall.
The highlight of that lot was a largely dry week in the Lakes and finally, at long last, ticking Eliminate A on Dow, leading every pitch. Great route. Fortunately, that one route just about makes up for the rest of the year and motivates me to keep going.
Oh yes, shouldn't forget, we climbed (for the umpteenth time) Little Cham in rather cold and (late season) snowy weather in early April on the day of my 50th birthday. Always a pleasure.
This has been one of my worst years on record. Slow start due to a house move in the Spring, a week in S France sports climbing and then a week in the Lakes in July immediately following which I tore some knee ligaments. Other than the odd bit of climbing when I really shouldn't have, that saw me through to the last few weeks when my knee finally feels about 90% ok. Since then, the weekend weather has been pretty appalling but I've slowly been regaining fitness at the wall.
The highlight of that lot was a largely dry week in the Lakes and finally, at long last, ticking Eliminate A on Dow, leading every pitch. Great route. Fortunately, that one route just about makes up for the rest of the year and motivates me to keep going.
Oh yes, shouldn't forget, we climbed (for the umpteenth time) Little Cham in rather cold and (late season) snowy weather in early April on the day of my 50th birthday. Always a pleasure.
Post edited at 13:21
In reply to The Ivanator:
Great thread so far.
My year has been pretty steady, mostly grit and Scottish mountaineering on top of some frustrations in winter (so just like the previous year).
In terms of grade progression best day out was at Rylstone, where the glorious slab climbing saw me venture into HVS with Extraction and The Hot Line. Favourite two routes on grit were Allan's Crack at a scorching hot Brimham and the stunning Byne's Crack at a chilly Burbage South.
In Scotland it just has to be doing the Dubhs for quality but I had wonderful days on the neighbouring southeast ridge of Sgurr a Choire Bhig and the Blabheinn Clach Glas traverse just because I got to do them with my son.
As for winter, I seemed to arrive in Fort William or Aviemore just as a huge dump rendered the mountains unstable. Three times!! So my most enjoyable days out turned out to be the low grade Lakekand classics South East Gully on Great End and Pinnacle Ridge on Gable
All in all much fun was had but I'm well finished with rock for the year because the draw of winter is so damned strong in my heart. The rack has been winterised, slingdraws are slung, tricams are loaded and axes freshly sharpened. Bring it on.
Great thread so far.
My year has been pretty steady, mostly grit and Scottish mountaineering on top of some frustrations in winter (so just like the previous year).
In terms of grade progression best day out was at Rylstone, where the glorious slab climbing saw me venture into HVS with Extraction and The Hot Line. Favourite two routes on grit were Allan's Crack at a scorching hot Brimham and the stunning Byne's Crack at a chilly Burbage South.
In Scotland it just has to be doing the Dubhs for quality but I had wonderful days on the neighbouring southeast ridge of Sgurr a Choire Bhig and the Blabheinn Clach Glas traverse just because I got to do them with my son.
As for winter, I seemed to arrive in Fort William or Aviemore just as a huge dump rendered the mountains unstable. Three times!! So my most enjoyable days out turned out to be the low grade Lakekand classics South East Gully on Great End and Pinnacle Ridge on Gable
All in all much fun was had but I'm well finished with rock for the year because the draw of winter is so damned strong in my heart. The rack has been winterised, slingdraws are slung, tricams are loaded and axes freshly sharpened. Bring it on.
1
In reply to The Ivanator:
Mixed year for me, great 1st half, poor second half.
About 300 or so routes. Highlights were North Tower of Paine in Patagonia (passed difficulties, but didn't top out), 100 routes in a day on grit, a day at The Five Clouds and Hen Cloud where I did Swivel Finger, Finger of Fate and Starlight and Storm LH and finally doing The Toy at Curbar after a bit of a protracted effort. South Ridge Direct on Cir Mor from 1st to penultimate ferry of the day was also cool.
Also a fair few frustrations from a badly sprained ankle, to illness among friends and family have prevented me getting out much over the past 6 months. Still, some you win, some you lose, it's always the way.
Mixed year for me, great 1st half, poor second half.
About 300 or so routes. Highlights were North Tower of Paine in Patagonia (passed difficulties, but didn't top out), 100 routes in a day on grit, a day at The Five Clouds and Hen Cloud where I did Swivel Finger, Finger of Fate and Starlight and Storm LH and finally doing The Toy at Curbar after a bit of a protracted effort. South Ridge Direct on Cir Mor from 1st to penultimate ferry of the day was also cool.
Also a fair few frustrations from a badly sprained ankle, to illness among friends and family have prevented me getting out much over the past 6 months. Still, some you win, some you lose, it's always the way.
1
In reply to The Ivanator:
Not as much climbing this year (330 ish routes) due to landing a full time job at the beginning of February.
Highlights include:
* Climbing on the Ben in winter for the first time, topping out my first route on it (Point five gully) to perfect blue skies. (Then we did a second route and I cried because I was so exhausted).
* A week in Pabbay, phenomenal steep trad climbing, my favourite.
* A week in the Dolomites, expecially climbing the Comici and Lacadelli.
* A week in Mallorca, largely getting over my fear of DWS, then doing Electric Blue as soon as I got back.
* Lots of evening cragging.
* Many weekends away in North Wales.
* Learning to jam a bit better.
Fave routes: Electric Blue, Silly Arete, The Vice, Fear of Infection, Western Front, Charming Crack
Lowlights:
* A few minor-ish injuries.
* Cancelling a week long UK trad trip due to bad weather.
* Frustrations at having to drive almost an hour to get to the closest climbing wall on winter evenings.
* Not summer climbing in Scotland.
All in all a pretty decent year Would like to climb more but can't have it all!
Not as much climbing this year (330 ish routes) due to landing a full time job at the beginning of February.
Highlights include:
* Climbing on the Ben in winter for the first time, topping out my first route on it (Point five gully) to perfect blue skies. (Then we did a second route and I cried because I was so exhausted).
* A week in Pabbay, phenomenal steep trad climbing, my favourite.
* A week in the Dolomites, expecially climbing the Comici and Lacadelli.
* A week in Mallorca, largely getting over my fear of DWS, then doing Electric Blue as soon as I got back.
* Lots of evening cragging.
* Many weekends away in North Wales.
* Learning to jam a bit better.
Fave routes: Electric Blue, Silly Arete, The Vice, Fear of Infection, Western Front, Charming Crack
Lowlights:
* A few minor-ish injuries.
* Cancelling a week long UK trad trip due to bad weather.
* Frustrations at having to drive almost an hour to get to the closest climbing wall on winter evenings.
* Not summer climbing in Scotland.
All in all a pretty decent year Would like to climb more but can't have it all!
1
In reply to The Ivanator:
2014 was best climbing year yet by wide margin so 2015 had a high bar to reach and hasn't but still got out lots. Highlights include the superb Tufa Groove(1 fall near top) at Costa Blanca, Desolation of Smaug in Twyll Mawr, sustained and atmospheric, I had a great day on Dow but was underwhelmed by Eliminate A. I also found Morrocan rock strangely underwhelming though Brizinger is utterly superb.
The Waster at The Chevin is a real standout, varied sustained and safe enough the best hard(for me) Grit route I've done.
2014 was best climbing year yet by wide margin so 2015 had a high bar to reach and hasn't but still got out lots. Highlights include the superb Tufa Groove(1 fall near top) at Costa Blanca, Desolation of Smaug in Twyll Mawr, sustained and atmospheric, I had a great day on Dow but was underwhelmed by Eliminate A. I also found Morrocan rock strangely underwhelming though Brizinger is utterly superb.
The Waster at The Chevin is a real standout, varied sustained and safe enough the best hard(for me) Grit route I've done.
1
In reply to The Ivanator:
sporadic but good year ticking off a few missions:
- Short but fully packed trip to Chamonix for the first time just before it got really hot there. managed 3 epic routes in four days and caught my plane home with literally seconds to spare.
- Canoe and climb trip down the wye valley culminating in an amazing two days at Symonds Yat.
- Wreckers Slab on the Culm Coast has been in my sights ever since I bought the Rockfax West Country guide and finally had the right partner and conditions for it.
- A mini trip to Dartmoor to take some newby mates out on the tors and up the Dewerstone.
- But best part; have turned my once fear stricken, vertigo induced mate into a full on climbing monkey who is still pestering me to go out in these conditions. Can't wait for 2016!
sporadic but good year ticking off a few missions:
- Short but fully packed trip to Chamonix for the first time just before it got really hot there. managed 3 epic routes in four days and caught my plane home with literally seconds to spare.
- Canoe and climb trip down the wye valley culminating in an amazing two days at Symonds Yat.
- Wreckers Slab on the Culm Coast has been in my sights ever since I bought the Rockfax West Country guide and finally had the right partner and conditions for it.
- A mini trip to Dartmoor to take some newby mates out on the tors and up the Dewerstone.
- But best part; have turned my once fear stricken, vertigo induced mate into a full on climbing monkey who is still pestering me to go out in these conditions. Can't wait for 2016!
Post edited at 15:17
In reply to The Ivanator:
The highlight of my year has to be 2 trips to Kalymnos, the lowlight definitely the onset of crippling tennis elbow.
Despite having wet spaghetti for arms for several months this year, I managed my second highest number of routes in a year, bumped my onsight and flash grades up more than once, nearly bumped my redpoint grade and finally ticked off an old nemesis in the form of Zinc Oxide Mountain (7b+)
I also made a lot of new climbing friends this year, more than I have for a good few years, you can never have too many partners to call on!
With luck I can fix my elbows over the winter ready to go bigger and better next year!
The highlight of my year has to be 2 trips to Kalymnos, the lowlight definitely the onset of crippling tennis elbow.
Despite having wet spaghetti for arms for several months this year, I managed my second highest number of routes in a year, bumped my onsight and flash grades up more than once, nearly bumped my redpoint grade and finally ticked off an old nemesis in the form of Zinc Oxide Mountain (7b+)
I also made a lot of new climbing friends this year, more than I have for a good few years, you can never have too many partners to call on!
With luck I can fix my elbows over the winter ready to go bigger and better next year!
In reply to The Ivanator:
Highlight was three days in a row, during the week, no-one around, perfect weather, ticking the bouldering at Cratcliffe Tor. Discovering the stuff like Hueco Wall was excellent. Gave up eating meat and drinking alcohol, lost weight and sent some Font 7s. 56th birthday soon and feeling excellent.
Highlight was three days in a row, during the week, no-one around, perfect weather, ticking the bouldering at Cratcliffe Tor. Discovering the stuff like Hueco Wall was excellent. Gave up eating meat and drinking alcohol, lost weight and sent some Font 7s. 56th birthday soon and feeling excellent.
In reply to The Ivanator:
Interesting year for me. Turned 30 this year so decided I had to lead 30 E points to celebrate. Therefore spent most of the year chasing trad and slowing getting a little bolder. Did it the hard way with lots of E1s but highlights included:
The Curtain on the Ben - Steep
Quartz Icicle at Gogarth - Awesome
The Arête at Tintwistle - very touch and go!
An awesome and pushing adventure on Amstrad don Daiblo on the Bulnes in Picos, soooo bold!
And finally my second, E3 ever, 5 years after the first (Paralell Piped) admittedly an easy one.
Great fun though!
Need to capitalise for next year
Interesting year for me. Turned 30 this year so decided I had to lead 30 E points to celebrate. Therefore spent most of the year chasing trad and slowing getting a little bolder. Did it the hard way with lots of E1s but highlights included:
The Curtain on the Ben - Steep
Quartz Icicle at Gogarth - Awesome
The Arête at Tintwistle - very touch and go!
An awesome and pushing adventure on Amstrad don Daiblo on the Bulnes in Picos, soooo bold!
And finally my second, E3 ever, 5 years after the first (Paralell Piped) admittedly an easy one.
Great fun though!
Need to capitalise for next year
1
In reply to RM199:
I did lots more trad this year and a bit less bouldering. I didn't make it to lots of venues on the list for the year but did do some excellent stuff including
Clogwyn Ddu Left Branch on an awesome sunny day
The Curtain in a storm
North Buttress, again in some pretty wild weather
Hadrian's Wall
After a couple of months of not climbing much I managed my first Peak Lime E1 onsight, Charas at Staden- I hate peak lime and I'm crap at it so that was a good achievement for me.
Making it to Baggy Point was also amazing, really enjoyed that.
I also onsighted my hardest route in October, doing Original Route on the Rivelin Needle and I pulled off my best ever headpoint the other week, also at Rivelin on The Tempest... hopefully I can build on this more next year.
I did lots more trad this year and a bit less bouldering. I didn't make it to lots of venues on the list for the year but did do some excellent stuff including
Clogwyn Ddu Left Branch on an awesome sunny day
The Curtain in a storm
North Buttress, again in some pretty wild weather
Hadrian's Wall
After a couple of months of not climbing much I managed my first Peak Lime E1 onsight, Charas at Staden- I hate peak lime and I'm crap at it so that was a good achievement for me.
Making it to Baggy Point was also amazing, really enjoyed that.
I also onsighted my hardest route in October, doing Original Route on the Rivelin Needle and I pulled off my best ever headpoint the other week, also at Rivelin on The Tempest... hopefully I can build on this more next year.
1
In reply to The Ivanator:
A reawakening of my love for Slipstones
The Almscliff VS challenge in a rather time pressured autumn morning
A few nice days out with friends old and new
Edit: Minions Way, Minions f'ing Way, that wasn't supposed to happen!
Don't think I did much else but I'm happy with that.
jk
A reawakening of my love for Slipstones
The Almscliff VS challenge in a rather time pressured autumn morning
A few nice days out with friends old and new
Edit: Minions Way, Minions f'ing Way, that wasn't supposed to happen!
Don't think I did much else but I'm happy with that.
jk
Post edited at 23:23
In reply to The Ivanator:
Good year for me
Did my first E5s
My first E6's
Climbed El Cap twice
First sport 7's
Final aim for the year- my first font 7's
Good year for me
Did my first E5s
My first E6's
Climbed El Cap twice
First sport 7's
Final aim for the year- my first font 7's
2
1
In reply to The Ivanator:
I managed my first E2, E3 and E4 this year so I'm blown out of the water with how I got on. I attribute it all to heinous amounts of indoor climbing and following the rock prodigy method with mostly good compliance
I managed my first E2, E3 and E4 this year so I'm blown out of the water with how I got on. I attribute it all to heinous amounts of indoor climbing and following the rock prodigy method with mostly good compliance
1
In reply to The Ivanator:
A great topic for a dreary December day.
For me 2015 has been a pretty decent year; with over 100 days out and 400 new ticks/memories accumulated. More quality than quantity this year; consolidating my grades and enjoying some great classics in good company.
Highlights have included:-
Gritstone season head points of Retribution Rib Direct (E5 5c) and Thumper Direct (E5 6a) and my hardest on-sight to date; Blasphemy (E4 6b).
My luck ran out in May, on In Memoriam (E4 6a), with a 20+ foot ground fall from the last real move; resulting in a badly sprained ankle, a long hobble back to the car and several months of painful rehab.
A trip to Mallorca, in March, included an accidental onsight of my hardest sport route to date Ojo clímbico (6c+), after being sandbagged by the locals, and I enoyed a visit to the brilliant Mallorcan crag X, "El Bunker"; also courtesy of the local lads. Seeing Iker Pou smashing a 9a, at Fraguel, while we played on our 6's and 7's, was v. impressive too.
A trip to the Langdales, in July, included onsights of some classic E2's Astra (E2 5c), White Ghyll Eliminate (E2 5c) and Big Dipper/Mirrormere (E2 5b). This flared up my ankle again, but was well worth it. I also enjoyed sharing a belay with the James McHaffie and Emma Twyford climbing machines, who were sending Impact Day (E8 6c), whilst we were climbing Astra.
My first visit to Lundy must rate as the best adventure of the year, with loads of classic E1's bagged and a somewhat scary onsight of a very dirty The Promised Land (E3 6a), above a rapidly encroaching tide (This one needs a lot more cleaning of the upper pitches in order to make it a reasonable prospect at the grade). I also enjoyed cleaning and climbing the much neglected The Ocean (E1 5b), with the help of some of the MoB lads (Trundling the deadly shattered first belay, which some bright spark had previously used an abseil anchor, was quite exciting, but the route should now be good to go if anyone else has it on their list).
With my cankle finally healed, a visit to some of the crags in and around the Costa Blanca area, in November, has fired me up nicely for the coming winter season, in the gym and on the grit, particularly Montesa; which, for some reason, reminded me of the Brimham pinnacles with added sunshine! As it's still fresh in my mind, La Panxa (6b) was a beautiful climb with great variety. It was also nice to see Vick push her onsight sport grade from a 3+ to a 5+ over the course of a few days; keep up the good work Ms Plum (10%er)
So here we are, in damp December and I still have 3 E3's and 2 E4's to do, in order to hit all of my targets for the year. Hey ho, you can't have it all but sometimes what you can have makes it all worthwhile
A great topic for a dreary December day.
For me 2015 has been a pretty decent year; with over 100 days out and 400 new ticks/memories accumulated. More quality than quantity this year; consolidating my grades and enjoying some great classics in good company.
Highlights have included:-
Gritstone season head points of Retribution Rib Direct (E5 5c) and Thumper Direct (E5 6a) and my hardest on-sight to date; Blasphemy (E4 6b).
My luck ran out in May, on In Memoriam (E4 6a), with a 20+ foot ground fall from the last real move; resulting in a badly sprained ankle, a long hobble back to the car and several months of painful rehab.
A trip to Mallorca, in March, included an accidental onsight of my hardest sport route to date Ojo clímbico (6c+), after being sandbagged by the locals, and I enoyed a visit to the brilliant Mallorcan crag X, "El Bunker"; also courtesy of the local lads. Seeing Iker Pou smashing a 9a, at Fraguel, while we played on our 6's and 7's, was v. impressive too.
A trip to the Langdales, in July, included onsights of some classic E2's Astra (E2 5c), White Ghyll Eliminate (E2 5c) and Big Dipper/Mirrormere (E2 5b). This flared up my ankle again, but was well worth it. I also enjoyed sharing a belay with the James McHaffie and Emma Twyford climbing machines, who were sending Impact Day (E8 6c), whilst we were climbing Astra.
My first visit to Lundy must rate as the best adventure of the year, with loads of classic E1's bagged and a somewhat scary onsight of a very dirty The Promised Land (E3 6a), above a rapidly encroaching tide (This one needs a lot more cleaning of the upper pitches in order to make it a reasonable prospect at the grade). I also enjoyed cleaning and climbing the much neglected The Ocean (E1 5b), with the help of some of the MoB lads (Trundling the deadly shattered first belay, which some bright spark had previously used an abseil anchor, was quite exciting, but the route should now be good to go if anyone else has it on their list).
With my cankle finally healed, a visit to some of the crags in and around the Costa Blanca area, in November, has fired me up nicely for the coming winter season, in the gym and on the grit, particularly Montesa; which, for some reason, reminded me of the Brimham pinnacles with added sunshine! As it's still fresh in my mind, La Panxa (6b) was a beautiful climb with great variety. It was also nice to see Vick push her onsight sport grade from a 3+ to a 5+ over the course of a few days; keep up the good work Ms Plum (10%er)
So here we are, in damp December and I still have 3 E3's and 2 E4's to do, in order to hit all of my targets for the year. Hey ho, you can't have it all but sometimes what you can have makes it all worthwhile
4
In reply to The Ivanator:
Mixed. Trad has been a bit of a disappointment. After a promising early trip to Pembroke I was really hoping that this year would be the one where I my sport fitness to use to get on some harder routes but lack of decent weather meant I never quite got enough mileage in to sort my trad head out. Highlights have to be a protracted and soul searching onsight of Fantasia at Gogarth (trad ledge shuffling at its finest) and flashing One Step Beyond at Gouther. Reminding myself how much I like the slate was also good.
Sport wise again it's been mixed. I had a slow start due to a knackered pulley in April that kept me from crimping for a good few months. But I put it to good use by getting fitter, which has improved my climbing a lot. UK sport hasn't been very successful but I've had a few cracking sport climbing trips - Seynes, Ceuse, the Verdon and a coaching holiday to Kalymnos. Highlights were probably Yosemite Wall at Malham, l'Ange en Decomposition in the Verdon (on second and with falls but what a route!!) and the Kaly trip where the combination of great coaching, a positive attitude and some friendly holiday grades meant I upped my onsight grade from 6c+ to 7b/7b+ (depending on which guide you read) in a week. The day at Kalydna when I onsighted Ixion, Nickel and Sickle will probably go down as my greatest sport climbing day ever (so far), especially as Nickel must be one of the best sport routes I've ever done.
Unfortunately I haven't managed to get out since I got back. The combination of illness, a house move and then apocalyptic rain has buggered up my autumn climbing plans but I live in hope that I might get out again this year...
Mixed. Trad has been a bit of a disappointment. After a promising early trip to Pembroke I was really hoping that this year would be the one where I my sport fitness to use to get on some harder routes but lack of decent weather meant I never quite got enough mileage in to sort my trad head out. Highlights have to be a protracted and soul searching onsight of Fantasia at Gogarth (trad ledge shuffling at its finest) and flashing One Step Beyond at Gouther. Reminding myself how much I like the slate was also good.
Sport wise again it's been mixed. I had a slow start due to a knackered pulley in April that kept me from crimping for a good few months. But I put it to good use by getting fitter, which has improved my climbing a lot. UK sport hasn't been very successful but I've had a few cracking sport climbing trips - Seynes, Ceuse, the Verdon and a coaching holiday to Kalymnos. Highlights were probably Yosemite Wall at Malham, l'Ange en Decomposition in the Verdon (on second and with falls but what a route!!) and the Kaly trip where the combination of great coaching, a positive attitude and some friendly holiday grades meant I upped my onsight grade from 6c+ to 7b/7b+ (depending on which guide you read) in a week. The day at Kalydna when I onsighted Ixion, Nickel and Sickle will probably go down as my greatest sport climbing day ever (so far), especially as Nickel must be one of the best sport routes I've ever done.
Unfortunately I haven't managed to get out since I got back. The combination of illness, a house move and then apocalyptic rain has buggered up my autumn climbing plans but I live in hope that I might get out again this year...
2
In reply to The Ivanator:
Spent all my energy through spring and early summer training general fitness and leg strength for a Karakoram trip. Very average climbing on rock as a consequence during the first half of the year. Nearly lost an eye after being struck directly by a block on soft ice from around 150m higher up.
Post Karakoram trip (August) I was particularly weak in the fingers but keen to make the most of the remaining warm months. Put some hard training in to get up to speed quickly. Mainly focused on sport routes harder than I would normally climb and to my surprise managed my hardest redpoints on sport as well as trad through Autumn. Shows what training can achieve. Quite psyched about next year as a consequence, although need to maintain the finger strength through the mixed/ice season.
Spent all my energy through spring and early summer training general fitness and leg strength for a Karakoram trip. Very average climbing on rock as a consequence during the first half of the year. Nearly lost an eye after being struck directly by a block on soft ice from around 150m higher up.
Post Karakoram trip (August) I was particularly weak in the fingers but keen to make the most of the remaining warm months. Put some hard training in to get up to speed quickly. Mainly focused on sport routes harder than I would normally climb and to my surprise managed my hardest redpoints on sport as well as trad through Autumn. Shows what training can achieve. Quite psyched about next year as a consequence, although need to maintain the finger strength through the mixed/ice season.
In reply to The Ivanator:
Rehabbed from a wrist injury and smashed my way back into the 7s in both sport and bouldering. Also took the first step towards gaining my SPA.
That said, I haven't spent close to enough time outdoors due to a newborn, something that I am going to rectify next year!
Rehabbed from a wrist injury and smashed my way back into the 7s in both sport and bouldering. Also took the first step towards gaining my SPA.
That said, I haven't spent close to enough time outdoors due to a newborn, something that I am going to rectify next year!
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