UKC

Gwern Pillar - Cadair Idris

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 PanzerHanzler 02 Dec 2015
Looking for a bit local knowledge as I've only visited this area once before. Gwern Pillar looks like an excellent climb well worth doing.

Rather than just slogging up to it are there any sensible mini-enchainments linking some decent together I could do on the way up to get there?

Routes up to VS would be in range - thanks for any help in advance.
 Dave Williams 02 Dec 2015
In reply to PanzerHanzler:

Gwern Pillar is well worth doing, probably the best VS on Cadair and unlike many routes on the mountain, it's very protectable. Gwern Graig's an impressive lump of rock and the whole setting's nice too. It's just a shame that the other routes on the crag are vastly inferior to the Pillar. Admittedly there's a bit of a slog up to it, but it's a short one which takes about 45 mins at most, 30-35 mins if you're particularly determined. It's also an exciting place to be if the Mach Loop (google it) is being used for low flying. Parking could be a bit of a problem on a flying day as spotters and photographers tend to get there very early, particularly if it's a nice sunny day. Unfortunately there's no chance of any enchainments as it's an isolated crag above what's essentially a steep grassy slope.

HTH

Dave
Doug Kerr 03 Dec 2015
In reply to Dave Williams:

Surprised you didn't mention the font grade with the sit start Dave.
f4?
 Pencarth 03 Dec 2015
In reply to PanzerHanzler:
Instead of flogging up direct to the crag, which is hard work, follow the wall/fence upwards until you can traverse across leftwards to the crag. Much easier. I'd wanted to do the route for a long time but found it a bit disappointing. It's nicely positioned but the main pitch is quite short and the quality of the climbing is not that brilliant. Not a 2 star route, maybe 1. It's definitely worth doing because of the situation but I would not go back and repeat it.
I was quite shocked to see how many people were there, and on the opposite hillside, waiting for the jets to fly through the bwlch. Had'nt realised such a hobby existed.
Post edited at 17:35

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