UKC

I am heading to Glenmore Lodge in January for the 5 day winter lead climbing course. I plan to stay up in Scotland the following week or even longer if possible to consolidate and get some more routes in at the lower-mid grades I guess II-IV, assuming I can find partners.
I have a full summer rack so what would be the minimum additions for such routes so I am not bumming all the gear off of any prospective partners?
I have a single 60m rope and all the general winter mountaineering kit so I am good for that.
Ta.

In reply to Professor Bunsen:

After spending 5 days with the Glenmore Lodge team you will be well clued up and "Winterised." If at the end of your course you manage to hook up with a winter climbing partner or two, "bumming all the gear" doesn't come into it. It is a partnership. The climbing rack is shared. If you don't happen to own specific winter gear I'm sure your rope and general mountaineering kit will contribute to the shared rack. Afterwards you'll have a better idea as to what to buy winterwise.
Weatherwise?.... your guess is as good as mine. Hope you get lucky!

In reply to Professor Bunsen:
Do you mean a single rope or one half rope? You need two halves for winter, preferably dry treated. A single would place too high a load on the gear in the event of a fall and would be too heavy to carry anyway.

Hexes.

Ice screws if you're looking at icy routes - depends on conditions.

In reply to Misha:

Two half ropes - need?.... No. Preferable? Yes.

Climbed plenty in winter on a single, and while not ideal, it ain't gonna rip all your gear out and kill you (maybe). 😀

To heavy to carry? Give over man.

In reply to Professor Bunsen:

My winter rack is usually nuts and hexes, with a bulldog, warthogs, cams or ice screws added depending on conditions. If you do find a partner that has a winter rack, use theirs. It stops your summer rack getting trashed by axes as you hammer it in...

In reply to Professor Bunsen:

If you want to take the plunge on some gear, just declare your summer wires expendable and offer them up to the winter gods. Buy a set of torque nuts (more versatile than hexes) and four or so 60cm slings to create alpine draws (use the wire gates off your existing short quickdraws). A couple of large HMS screw gates are useful for gloved hands and the best are the Petzl Attaché (very light, very wide gate, see UKC latest review). This is going to come in under £100 although you'll eventually want to declare your wires fully winterised and buy a clean set for summer.

If you're around the west coast in the latter half of January have a look at the Skye Winter Festival (see Facebook page) where there'll be potential partners and good company in the evenings.

In reply to BnB:

Do you (and others) have different nuts for summer and winter?

Thanks

Stuart

In reply to Stuart the postie:


No.

In reply to Stuart the postie:

I've got an older set of nuts that I mix and match in winter. I'm also one of the dying breed that that can be heard clanging aboot wi three Hexes in summer

In reply to Professor Bunsen:

You only really need half-ropes if you're doing something more committing and abseiling off is a possibility. The impact force argument isn't all that relevant on easier routes where there is less pro and you won't be falling off.

Chances are if you take your rope or ropes to the party then prospective partners won't be fussed about using their own racks, which is a good learning curve for you as you see what they use. More screws are always welcome, think about a variety of lengths.

You'll get way more good input from 5 days out with a Lodge instructor than you will on here, so I wouldn't stress it too much.

In reply to Stuart the postie:


Yes, mainly because my summer rack has progressed over time to incorporate more specialised wires (super lights, offsets, micros etc) leaving my original wires somewhat redundant (until winter comes).

In reply to Professor Bunsen:

As always, ta for the feedback. Food for thought aplenty.

In reply to BnB:


I find offsets invaluable during Winter - sometimes that's all I'll take.

In reply to planetmarshall:

I agree. My partner brings the alloy offsets and I bring a selection of standard wires. Often we bring two of the red offsets. They go in all over.

In reply to Stuart the postie:


Didn't have when I begun... but now I do. After all, seating them nuts properly with the icetool is often not so nice for summer. Meaning that the worst abused get dedicated for winter (and aid) climbing. And if a wire frays a bit in the summers, it also ends up in the winter rack.