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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=629839
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2877 Not much climbing action, but some nice images/interviews.
Spenser: Good news that you can start bouldering and leading again! Did you led some routes this week? Good luck with your MSc essay!
Tyler: How is/was Margalef? Did you gave a couple of 7bs an OS try?
Robin Brooke: Congrats on ticking the 7a and on the almost onsight of the red 7a. Did it go this week? And the other new routes? What a pity that your girlfriend is injured, will she recover in time for the roadtrip?
Mattrm: Good you climbed indoors again and climbed well. Did you climb outside this week?
Nick Russell: I understand that the walls in the US are weird then. Did you got some core sessions done this week?
TonyB: Bummer that it’s often flooded. With regards to it being muddy we’re using tarps under the pads sometimes to keep them clean, could be worth a try. Nice set of goals for December! Already (partly) ticked some of them?
The Ex-Engineer: Congrats on the 7b flash! Did you manage to step things up this week? And got round to an outdoor session?
Hokkyokusei: Sounds like you’ve taken good steps on injury prevention. That’s quite some mileage in the month! Do you have any special goals regarding that?
Biscuit: Nice you got round to some climbing during the holiday! Back training wise this week or were you having a jetlag?
Ian Bell: Did you go climbing this week? If so, how was it on the elbows?
Dandan82: Good you could avoid stuff that’s making your elbows worse! How was this week, still doing the core program?
Richard Popp: Bummer that you felt ill. Did you feel better this week and managed to do some climbing?
Stevemarkperry: Welcome back! Good you started climbing again. Are you aiming for quantity when you’re climbing outdoors or are you also having some goal routes?
AJM: Nice that you’ve already got some new trips planned! Already been thinking of goals on those trips? Pity that your arm played up in Chulilla. How was training this week?
Ally Smith: Sounds like a pretty good 4 days in Chulilla, especially doing MM 1st RP and trying an unintended 8b OS! Managed to tick this weeks goals as well?
Hms: Congrats with the 7as onsight! Bummer that the cold was stopping you from climbing harder routes. Did you train this week or did the cold also interfere with this weeks climbing?
Flopsicle: 3 out of 3 is a really good score, that means you’re doing something well (mine is 0.5/1 and some others I took for a day and they liked it, but didn’t want to invest in learning to belay)! Good to hear your knee isn’t as bad as in July. Did you get round to more hard routes this week?
Humperdink: Impressive amount of miles again this week! How was this weekends XC league race (if I recall correct it was this weekend)?
James Moyle: Welcome back! Which route are planning to climb on the Matterhorn? And is it a goal for summer 2016?
Joyce: Looks like a nice trainingstructure for coming winter! Also a really good week for recovering from a cold! Did you get around thinking of next years goals or are you waiting until 2016 with them?
Exile: Congrats on linking the PE route! Are going completely over to power now? If so, how long will your power phase be?
Just Tintin: Nice that one of the kids got 2nd at the comp! Is it a competition climbers training group? Were you pleased with your own training this week?
0.5viking: One more exam to go! Do some more jamming before leaving to the Netherlands!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=629839
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2877 Not much climbing action, but some nice images/interviews.
Spenser: Good news that you can start bouldering and leading again! Did you led some routes this week? Good luck with your MSc essay!
Tyler: How is/was Margalef? Did you gave a couple of 7bs an OS try?
Robin Brooke: Congrats on ticking the 7a and on the almost onsight of the red 7a. Did it go this week? And the other new routes? What a pity that your girlfriend is injured, will she recover in time for the roadtrip?
Mattrm: Good you climbed indoors again and climbed well. Did you climb outside this week?
Nick Russell: I understand that the walls in the US are weird then. Did you got some core sessions done this week?
TonyB: Bummer that it’s often flooded. With regards to it being muddy we’re using tarps under the pads sometimes to keep them clean, could be worth a try. Nice set of goals for December! Already (partly) ticked some of them?
The Ex-Engineer: Congrats on the 7b flash! Did you manage to step things up this week? And got round to an outdoor session?
Hokkyokusei: Sounds like you’ve taken good steps on injury prevention. That’s quite some mileage in the month! Do you have any special goals regarding that?
Biscuit: Nice you got round to some climbing during the holiday! Back training wise this week or were you having a jetlag?
Ian Bell: Did you go climbing this week? If so, how was it on the elbows?
Dandan82: Good you could avoid stuff that’s making your elbows worse! How was this week, still doing the core program?
Richard Popp: Bummer that you felt ill. Did you feel better this week and managed to do some climbing?
Stevemarkperry: Welcome back! Good you started climbing again. Are you aiming for quantity when you’re climbing outdoors or are you also having some goal routes?
AJM: Nice that you’ve already got some new trips planned! Already been thinking of goals on those trips? Pity that your arm played up in Chulilla. How was training this week?
Ally Smith: Sounds like a pretty good 4 days in Chulilla, especially doing MM 1st RP and trying an unintended 8b OS! Managed to tick this weeks goals as well?
Hms: Congrats with the 7as onsight! Bummer that the cold was stopping you from climbing harder routes. Did you train this week or did the cold also interfere with this weeks climbing?
Flopsicle: 3 out of 3 is a really good score, that means you’re doing something well (mine is 0.5/1 and some others I took for a day and they liked it, but didn’t want to invest in learning to belay)! Good to hear your knee isn’t as bad as in July. Did you get round to more hard routes this week?
Humperdink: Impressive amount of miles again this week! How was this weekends XC league race (if I recall correct it was this weekend)?
James Moyle: Welcome back! Which route are planning to climb on the Matterhorn? And is it a goal for summer 2016?
Joyce: Looks like a nice trainingstructure for coming winter! Also a really good week for recovering from a cold! Did you get around thinking of next years goals or are you waiting until 2016 with them?
Exile: Congrats on linking the PE route! Are going completely over to power now? If so, how long will your power phase be?
Just Tintin: Nice that one of the kids got 2nd at the comp! Is it a competition climbers training group? Were you pleased with your own training this week?
0.5viking: One more exam to go! Do some more jamming before leaving to the Netherlands!
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking, another mystifying week, good days and bad days with no obvious way of divining the reason behind the difference!
By Thursday things felt great, ROM was the most pain free it had been for a while, things were going well, then Friday morning everything felt super sore again, for no reason that I can discover.
I'm reasonably sure that there is now some swelling at the elbow which wasn't there before, as bad as it sounds, I think this might be a good thing, it means my body is giving the area some attention at least.
I just did one core session Tuesday (finally moved onto week 10 of the plan, beasted) and an elbow friendly S+C on Wednesday, nothing else aside from a great deal of heating, massaging, ROM and stretching.
My only remaining suspicion is that my elbow friendly S+C isnt all that elbow friendly, but things were improving the day after the S+C session and didn't get worse until the following day, might be worth skipping it for a few weeks in case.
Thanks Viking, another mystifying week, good days and bad days with no obvious way of divining the reason behind the difference!
By Thursday things felt great, ROM was the most pain free it had been for a while, things were going well, then Friday morning everything felt super sore again, for no reason that I can discover.
I'm reasonably sure that there is now some swelling at the elbow which wasn't there before, as bad as it sounds, I think this might be a good thing, it means my body is giving the area some attention at least.
I just did one core session Tuesday (finally moved onto week 10 of the plan, beasted) and an elbow friendly S+C on Wednesday, nothing else aside from a great deal of heating, massaging, ROM and stretching.
My only remaining suspicion is that my elbow friendly S+C isnt all that elbow friendly, but things were improving the day after the S+C session and didn't get worse until the following day, might be worth skipping it for a few weeks in case.
In reply to 0.5viking: Thanks again for doing the weekly post.
M - Boulder @ Iffley. Bit of a token session, ticked a couple of problems over about an hour.
T - Boulder @ Brookes. Ticked the last red tag I hadn't tried relatively quickly then spent the rest of session making slow progress on the last two reds.
W - rest
T - being lazy
F - rest
S - Sport @ Winspit
A good session. As hoped, the very left-hand end of Quarryman's Wall was almost out of the wind.
Ancient Order of Freemarblers (7a) onsight
Avenging the Halsewell (7b) 2nd go
S - TBC. Feeling tired but the plan is a light session this evening; Boulder @ Brookes plus some stretching, core and antagonist work.
The mild temperatures seem set to continue a bit longer so hopefully another couple of days on rock will be possible before the end of the year.
> Did you manage to step things up this week?
No, not really, pysch dropped off mid-week.> And got round to an outdoor session?
Yes, some of us braved the wind at Winspit yesterday and had another decent day.M - Boulder @ Iffley. Bit of a token session, ticked a couple of problems over about an hour.
T - Boulder @ Brookes. Ticked the last red tag I hadn't tried relatively quickly then spent the rest of session making slow progress on the last two reds.
W - rest
T - being lazy
F - rest
S - Sport @ Winspit
A good session. As hoped, the very left-hand end of Quarryman's Wall was almost out of the wind.
Ancient Order of Freemarblers (7a) onsight
Avenging the Halsewell (7b) 2nd go
S - TBC. Feeling tired but the plan is a light session this evening; Boulder @ Brookes plus some stretching, core and antagonist work.
The mild temperatures seem set to continue a bit longer so hopefully another couple of days on rock will be possible before the end of the year.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking. All routes re-set this last week, so starting to work the new ones. 3x7a's and 2x6c+. Got three good indoor sessions in, making progress trying to make bigger links. Started doing daily 15mins theraband exersizes for shoulder stablisation which seems to have helped manage and reduce a pinch I've been getting in my left shoulder. Its a 4-6 month recovery for my girlfriend from 10 Nov, so just need to be positive and encourage her. Target is weighted walking by new year, then swimming, then gentle climbing, then vigorous climbing
M: Leading at Castle (wells). Warm-ups: 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6c Pink (powerful OS), 6c Mint (technical OS). RP: 7a Beige (new project, 2nd try got the moves dialled now just need to link). 7a+ Red (still working moves, can do all except last 2 moves - powerful shoulder/gaston - not linked) plus Shoulder ex.
T: Pilates 60mins + Shoulder ex.
W: Rest. Shoulder ex.
Th: Leading at Castle (wells). Warm-ups: 5+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+ (Black), 6b+ (Orange Slab awkward mantle). OS: 6c (Orange, thin). RP: 7a (Beige, to half way then off/pumped, then completed).
F: Rest. Shoulder ex.
S: Leading at Castle (upstairs). Warm-ups: 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b (orange, thin holds steep), 6b+ (yellow, roof), 6c (red). RP: 6c+ (pink, did last was too tired to do clean), 7a (black, thin vertical technical, off twice). Plus Shoulder ex.
Su: Rest. Shoulder ex.
> Robin Brooke: Congrats on ticking the 7a and on the almost onsight of the red 7a. Did it go this week? And the other new routes? What a pity that your girlfriend is injured, will she recover in time for the roadtrip?
Thanks Viking. All routes re-set this last week, so starting to work the new ones. 3x7a's and 2x6c+. Got three good indoor sessions in, making progress trying to make bigger links. Started doing daily 15mins theraband exersizes for shoulder stablisation which seems to have helped manage and reduce a pinch I've been getting in my left shoulder. Its a 4-6 month recovery for my girlfriend from 10 Nov, so just need to be positive and encourage her. Target is weighted walking by new year, then swimming, then gentle climbing, then vigorous climbing
M: Leading at Castle (wells). Warm-ups: 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6c Pink (powerful OS), 6c Mint (technical OS). RP: 7a Beige (new project, 2nd try got the moves dialled now just need to link). 7a+ Red (still working moves, can do all except last 2 moves - powerful shoulder/gaston - not linked) plus Shoulder ex.
T: Pilates 60mins + Shoulder ex.
W: Rest. Shoulder ex.
Th: Leading at Castle (wells). Warm-ups: 5+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+ (Black), 6b+ (Orange Slab awkward mantle). OS: 6c (Orange, thin). RP: 7a (Beige, to half way then off/pumped, then completed).
F: Rest. Shoulder ex.
S: Leading at Castle (upstairs). Warm-ups: 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b (orange, thin holds steep), 6b+ (yellow, roof), 6c (red). RP: 6c+ (pink, did last was too tired to do clean), 7a (black, thin vertical technical, off twice). Plus Shoulder ex.
Su: Rest. Shoulder ex.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Best way of getting over the post-trip downer.....
I'm not sure I've got anything firm in really in terms of actual problems, done some flicking through guides/videos though.
It would be nice to tick V6/7 (7A/+) in a few places over the course of the winter. I did try a 7B over the summer, which had one move on it I couldn't do - it would be good to put some time into something at that sort of level. Tom told me out and out strength is a bit of a limiting factor for me so some strength training and bouldering over the winter will hopefully address that.
Very quiet week, give everything a bit of a break. Nothing until today - done some continuity and a fingerboard session. Up to 11 pull-ups max on my 19mm edge, up one.
Arm seems ok at the minute, fingers crossed - going to work on the rehab and the plan starts to up volume again next week.
> AJM: Nice that you’ve already got some new trips planned! Already been thinking of goals on those trips?
Best way of getting over the post-trip downer.....
I'm not sure I've got anything firm in really in terms of actual problems, done some flicking through guides/videos though.
It would be nice to tick V6/7 (7A/+) in a few places over the course of the winter. I did try a 7B over the summer, which had one move on it I couldn't do - it would be good to put some time into something at that sort of level. Tom told me out and out strength is a bit of a limiting factor for me so some strength training and bouldering over the winter will hopefully address that.
> Pity that your arm played up in Chulilla. How was training this week?
Very quiet week, give everything a bit of a break. Nothing until today - done some continuity and a fingerboard session. Up to 11 pull-ups max on my 19mm edge, up one.
Arm seems ok at the minute, fingers crossed - going to work on the rehab and the plan starts to up volume again next week.
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
thanks for the stats Viking. I did absolutely nothing this week due to still feeling crap and having zero psyche. Managed to cycle commute on Friday (extra day in the office to make up for having not been there on Mon or Tues - the thrill), plus few miles urban walking. No attempt at any climbing though, for which I think my body breathed a sigh of relief and thanked me.
thanks for the stats Viking. I did absolutely nothing this week due to still feeling crap and having zero psyche. Managed to cycle commute on Friday (extra day in the office to make up for having not been there on Mon or Tues - the thrill), plus few miles urban walking. No attempt at any climbing though, for which I think my body breathed a sigh of relief and thanked me.
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks 0.5viking. Matterhorn via the tourist route up the Hornli ridge. Was hoping to do it this summer but need to get my act together.
This week saw my first Bouldering session for a long time (@UCR). Mostly did easy circuits but did pull off a 6c slab which felt fantastic. Some soreness in hands and forearms still lingering today - planning to stick to big holds and develop stamina for the meantime.
Nothing else this week.
Thanks 0.5viking. Matterhorn via the tourist route up the Hornli ridge. Was hoping to do it this summer but need to get my act together.
This week saw my first Bouldering session for a long time (@UCR). Mostly did easy circuits but did pull off a 6c slab which felt fantastic. Some soreness in hands and forearms still lingering today - planning to stick to big holds and develop stamina for the meantime.
Nothing else this week.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Climb outside again...
Weight - 12st something (don't know at all tbh)
M - T - Rest
W - Core
T - F - Rest
S - Lifting lots of wood
S - 150 dish tucks
Monthly Avg - 50%
Yearly Avg - 60%
Getting back to some kind of normal. I guess. I've been able to do a bit more exercise. I was going to the wall on Thursday, but the session was cancelled. Done a bit of DIY over the weekend. Finished off some christmas presents. I'm going to now try to keep my averages at 60%. Don't want to end up under that.
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Climb outside again...
Weight - 12st something (don't know at all tbh)
M - T - Rest
W - Core
T - F - Rest
S - Lifting lots of wood
S - 150 dish tucks
Monthly Avg - 50%
Yearly Avg - 60%
Getting back to some kind of normal. I guess. I've been able to do a bit more exercise. I was going to the wall on Thursday, but the session was cancelled. Done a bit of DIY over the weekend. Finished off some christmas presents. I'm going to now try to keep my averages at 60%. Don't want to end up under that.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Still one more exam to go. Started some jamming practice, because I hope to visit Ettringen while being at ‘home’ for Christmas.
Weight: 71.1kg
M: rest/school
T: Exam/ indoor bouldering, trained on the handjam boulder.
W: indoor bouldering, managed to do a 6B+ comp problem that I struggled with previous week.
T: rest
F: indoor climbing, focused on the crack (grade 7), felt I got better at jamming compared to before the summer holiday. Also did a crimpy 7 in the overhang second go and worked the moves on a 7+
S: rest
S: climbing indoors, did some bouldering ‘flashed’ two 6As that I couldn’t do the start move off last year and never bothered trying the rest. Also made some progress on the crack, managed two sections I couldn’t do on Friday.
Still one more exam to go. Started some jamming practice, because I hope to visit Ettringen while being at ‘home’ for Christmas.
Weight: 71.1kg
M: rest/school
T: Exam/ indoor bouldering, trained on the handjam boulder.
W: indoor bouldering, managed to do a 6B+ comp problem that I struggled with previous week.
T: rest
F: indoor climbing, focused on the crack (grade 7), felt I got better at jamming compared to before the summer holiday. Also did a crimpy 7 in the overhang second go and worked the moves on a 7+
S: rest
S: climbing indoors, did some bouldering ‘flashed’ two 6As that I couldn’t do the start move off last year and never bothered trying the rest. Also made some progress on the crack, managed two sections I couldn’t do on Friday.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks again for the thread! My 3 starters have all bought harnesses and shoes now so I reckon I can claim the 3/3 score for real!
My week has been a bit hard, actually quite a lot of a bit hard!
Mon - Nowt, had training at work that clashed with my flexi time for a run.
Tues - 2 mile hilly run.
Weds - 2 mile hilly run, 2 hours lead climbing, nothing really exciting to report except got my scardey bum back on the overhanging head wall.
Thurs - nowt, training at work again!
Fri - Dayus horribilus. Physio in the morning and I'm still amazed by it. The physio spent about an hour, asking shed loads of questions, shed loads of 'do this' 'push that', lots of prodage around my neck and shoulders. The upshot was something called 'Double Crush', he thought I had a compressed nerve in my neck, tennis elbow and carpal tunnel (all left arm elbow). I was a bit confused and am not sure if everything above was separate or part of each other (if you know what I mean). I googled bits but backed off when it got scary - I'll wait for a natter wit my nursey mate - she'll figure it out.
Whilst being prodded my dad had rung to say he'd had a cataract op the previous day (didn't tell me!) and couldn't look after mum so I set about arranging care - because social care have my own and work number I turned my work phone on (day off). Work phone and own phone then went back to back relay! In the end I just took both phones and went climbing. Climbed for about an hour, lots of laps, couple of harder boulder problems - felt crap. I did get a run in but only 1 mile to daughter's school.
Sat - Dad had cancelled the care I'd set up so I took shopping sorted parents, then had 2 hrs playing climbing (bit the same as Fri except got 2 harder routes on the auto belay). Daughter then decided she wanted to go on a night run but as time was short just did 1 mile up a steep hill - daughter managed to sprint off the top after the hill so I felt silly proud (and a bit slow!).
Sun - 3.5 hilly run (Hmmmmph!! Bloody 10 mile target, could have done with just a 2 miler). Biked into town and back to buy a batwing jumper for 80s climbing night. 3 hrs climbing - did some decent climbs, really pleased as proper avoiding 'owt unpleasant ont left!
Overall a very strange week. I knew my arm was not great as most of the time I've got pins and needles in my left hand but physio thought a referral for more physio should help and my grades are getting back where they were even with it. I've also got a stretching and exercise routine emailed to me - to my shame I haven't started it! Meep!
Thanks again for the thread! My 3 starters have all bought harnesses and shoes now so I reckon I can claim the 3/3 score for real!
My week has been a bit hard, actually quite a lot of a bit hard!
Mon - Nowt, had training at work that clashed with my flexi time for a run.
Tues - 2 mile hilly run.
Weds - 2 mile hilly run, 2 hours lead climbing, nothing really exciting to report except got my scardey bum back on the overhanging head wall.
Thurs - nowt, training at work again!
Fri - Dayus horribilus. Physio in the morning and I'm still amazed by it. The physio spent about an hour, asking shed loads of questions, shed loads of 'do this' 'push that', lots of prodage around my neck and shoulders. The upshot was something called 'Double Crush', he thought I had a compressed nerve in my neck, tennis elbow and carpal tunnel (all left arm elbow). I was a bit confused and am not sure if everything above was separate or part of each other (if you know what I mean). I googled bits but backed off when it got scary - I'll wait for a natter wit my nursey mate - she'll figure it out.
Whilst being prodded my dad had rung to say he'd had a cataract op the previous day (didn't tell me!) and couldn't look after mum so I set about arranging care - because social care have my own and work number I turned my work phone on (day off). Work phone and own phone then went back to back relay! In the end I just took both phones and went climbing. Climbed for about an hour, lots of laps, couple of harder boulder problems - felt crap. I did get a run in but only 1 mile to daughter's school.
Sat - Dad had cancelled the care I'd set up so I took shopping sorted parents, then had 2 hrs playing climbing (bit the same as Fri except got 2 harder routes on the auto belay). Daughter then decided she wanted to go on a night run but as time was short just did 1 mile up a steep hill - daughter managed to sprint off the top after the hill so I felt silly proud (and a bit slow!).
Sun - 3.5 hilly run (Hmmmmph!! Bloody 10 mile target, could have done with just a 2 miler). Biked into town and back to buy a batwing jumper for 80s climbing night. 3 hrs climbing - did some decent climbs, really pleased as proper avoiding 'owt unpleasant ont left!
Overall a very strange week. I knew my arm was not great as most of the time I've got pins and needles in my left hand but physio thought a referral for more physio should help and my grades are getting back where they were even with it. I've also got a stretching and exercise routine emailed to me - to my shame I haven't started it! Meep!
In reply to 0.5viking:
TonyB: Bummer that it’s often flooded. With regards to it being muddy we’re using tarps under the pads sometimes to keep them clean, could be worth a try. Nice set of goals for December! Already (partly) ticked some of them?
- It's fine. Living close to the Peak I'm pretty spoiled for climbing opportunities. So there are certainly other places that I can go.
I was travelling for part of this week, so couldn't get all the training I'd like done.
Mon - bouldering mileage + rings
Tue - continuous climbing + shoulder stability
Wed - weighted pull ups (new best for 2 rep max with 33.75kg)
Thur - work travel
Friday - work travel
Sat - bouldering mileage, bouldering short rests, shoulder stability
Sun - core
The bouldering mileage on Saturday was fantastic. I got 22 problems of the V4/V5 circuit done in 23 minutes (December goal ticked). I'm really pleased with this. I rested for 5 minutes then climbed 24 problems on the V3/V4 circuit in 22 mins. Next weekend I'll be in El Chorro, so really keen to get some routes done. I plan to get at least a couple of days training in beforehand.
Dec goals
Sessions on rock 0/5, Sessions on a rope 0/5, 7a onsights 0/3
20x V4/V5 problems in 25 mins - done
TonyB: Bummer that it’s often flooded. With regards to it being muddy we’re using tarps under the pads sometimes to keep them clean, could be worth a try. Nice set of goals for December! Already (partly) ticked some of them?
- It's fine. Living close to the Peak I'm pretty spoiled for climbing opportunities. So there are certainly other places that I can go.
I was travelling for part of this week, so couldn't get all the training I'd like done.
Mon - bouldering mileage + rings
Tue - continuous climbing + shoulder stability
Wed - weighted pull ups (new best for 2 rep max with 33.75kg)
Thur - work travel
Friday - work travel
Sat - bouldering mileage, bouldering short rests, shoulder stability
Sun - core
The bouldering mileage on Saturday was fantastic. I got 22 problems of the V4/V5 circuit done in 23 minutes (December goal ticked). I'm really pleased with this. I rested for 5 minutes then climbed 24 problems on the V3/V4 circuit in 22 mins. Next weekend I'll be in El Chorro, so really keen to get some routes done. I plan to get at least a couple of days training in beforehand.
Dec goals
Sessions on rock 0/5, Sessions on a rope 0/5, 7a onsights 0/3
20x V4/V5 problems in 25 mins - done
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for the stats 0.5viking.
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year). Doubtful with dodgy elbows but will leave it here.
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Tues – 750m swimming. Nice to swim again after hardly doing so in years.
Thurs - 750m swimming
Sat - 6 routes mostly c6a ish at Westway. Elbows held up OK although the last 6a+ felt as hard as it was sensible to do. Felt OK Sunday and this morning though.
Kept the 10 mins abs workout ticking along at least every other day as well.
Elbows felt OK, hopeful they'll have recovered by 3 weeks or so when I'm in Tenerife. Another physio appointment this week and hopefully 1x climbing again. Feels like swimming is probably a better use of the time than climbing at present, would rather get to Tenerife a bit more climbing unfit but with totally recovered elbows than wall fit but broken!
Thanks for the stats 0.5viking.
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year). Doubtful with dodgy elbows but will leave it here.
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Tues – 750m swimming. Nice to swim again after hardly doing so in years.
Thurs - 750m swimming
Sat - 6 routes mostly c6a ish at Westway. Elbows held up OK although the last 6a+ felt as hard as it was sensible to do. Felt OK Sunday and this morning though.
Kept the 10 mins abs workout ticking along at least every other day as well.
Elbows felt OK, hopeful they'll have recovered by 3 weeks or so when I'm in Tenerife. Another physio appointment this week and hopefully 1x climbing again. Feels like swimming is probably a better use of the time than climbing at present, would rather get to Tenerife a bit more climbing unfit but with totally recovered elbows than wall fit but broken!
In reply to 0.5viking:
8b was an accidental OS attempt; not success - i'd have been shouting a lot louder about that!
Good recovery week with lots of sleep and plenty of good food. I should rein that in slightly though, as still have a routes trip at New Year to stay slim for.
Winter ’15/’16
Climb 8a on other rock types – conglomerate and/or slate?
Do 7C in Albarracin at end of Jan
Do some progressive headpointing; Janus & Masters Edge for starters.
Kilnsey/Malham/Orme bolting efforts
Toadal Recall, f8a – tidy up loose ends.
S/MTG - New Year in Spain – STOKE IS HIGH!
La Cara Que No Miente, 8a+ - need to train pinches, pockets and jumping moves.
Pat Pa Mi, 8b, Suirana.
Anabolica, classic Suirana 8a.
Hidrophobia, R1, 8a, (and maybe R2, 8b/+?), Montsant.
Try: La Perla, 8b+ at Margalef.
STG (next week)
- Sleep more – TICK – no need for a repeat
- Continued rehab for various achy/injured bits – TICK - Physio pokey magic; now keep doing the exercises/stretches
- Maintain sub 75 kg – FAIL - repeat
- 2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings – FAIL – repeat
- Get to the cave this week
Last week:
M - As per last week. 4th day on. 7a+ OS, epic 55m 7b 7c+ OS. Late night travelling home.
T - Nowt - Highly caffeinated day working in London and driving back to the NW very late/early.
W - Nowt
T - AWS lunchtime boulder. Lots of V5 flashes. Few of the V6 circuit. Dismal failure on any of the harder stuff as it all involves stupid jumping.
F - Physio pokey. Tried FB1 but felt wiped out from the having the squits (probably last nights Nandos?).
S - Gentle/muddy walk.
S - FB5. An-cap way down (-20%) from autumn levels. 6x 120s on/60s off FOC. Failed at 100s on last set; good pump.
8b was an accidental OS attempt; not success - i'd have been shouting a lot louder about that!
Good recovery week with lots of sleep and plenty of good food. I should rein that in slightly though, as still have a routes trip at New Year to stay slim for.
Winter ’15/’16
Climb 8a on other rock types – conglomerate and/or slate?
Do 7C in Albarracin at end of Jan
Do some progressive headpointing; Janus & Masters Edge for starters.
Kilnsey/Malham/Orme bolting efforts
Toadal Recall, f8a – tidy up loose ends.
S/MTG - New Year in Spain – STOKE IS HIGH!
La Cara Que No Miente, 8a+ - need to train pinches, pockets and jumping moves.
Pat Pa Mi, 8b, Suirana.
Anabolica, classic Suirana 8a.
Hidrophobia, R1, 8a, (and maybe R2, 8b/+?), Montsant.
Try: La Perla, 8b+ at Margalef.
STG (next week)
- Sleep more – TICK – no need for a repeat
- Continued rehab for various achy/injured bits – TICK - Physio pokey magic; now keep doing the exercises/stretches
- Maintain sub 75 kg – FAIL - repeat
- 2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings – FAIL – repeat
- Get to the cave this week
Last week:
M - As per last week. 4th day on. 7a+ OS, epic 55m 7b 7c+ OS. Late night travelling home.
T - Nowt - Highly caffeinated day working in London and driving back to the NW very late/early.
W - Nowt
T - AWS lunchtime boulder. Lots of V5 flashes. Few of the V6 circuit. Dismal failure on any of the harder stuff as it all involves stupid jumping.
F - Physio pokey. Tried FB1 but felt wiped out from the having the squits (probably last nights Nandos?).
S - Gentle/muddy walk.
S - FB5. An-cap way down (-20%) from autumn levels. 6x 120s on/60s off FOC. Failed at 100s on last set; good pump.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the thread again.
Jet lag would have been nice. Landed at 6am, collected dogs, went to college!
Worse was the fact that last Tuesday (day before coming home) i got the worst case of food poisoning ever. It was touch and go for making the flight back. End result is i still feel wasted a week later. Really tired, muscles cramping etc. So nothing done. I was considering a session tomorrow and/or Wednesday but have decided against it and am going to rest. Got an important deadline week next week, and my coaching session, so don't want to mess those up. I may try something later in the week if i'm feeling up to it.
Thanks for doing the thread again.
Jet lag would have been nice. Landed at 6am, collected dogs, went to college!
Worse was the fact that last Tuesday (day before coming home) i got the worst case of food poisoning ever. It was touch and go for making the flight back. End result is i still feel wasted a week later. Really tired, muscles cramping etc. So nothing done. I was considering a session tomorrow and/or Wednesday but have decided against it and am going to rest. Got an important deadline week next week, and my coaching session, so don't want to mess those up. I may try something later in the week if i'm feeling up to it.
In reply to biscuit:
Tonsai tummy? I got rinsed a few years ago. Took me out for 48 hours, but the weight loss aided climbing!
Take it easy - all that puking/pooing can really screw with your electrolyte balance.
Tonsai tummy? I got rinsed a few years ago. Took me out for 48 hours, but the weight loss aided climbing!
Take it easy - all that puking/pooing can really screw with your electrolyte balance.
In reply to 0.5viking:
All that said I'm not whinging too much, I had a good time with a good mate, missed some torrential weather here, ticked some quality routes and saw Alex Megos try First Round, First Minute at close quarters. Psyche for the winter training remains high - a murete!
> Tyler: How is/was Margalef? Did you gave a couple of 7bs an OS try?
A difficult post for me to write as, from a performance point of view, my week was a complete failure! I got high on a couple of 7b attempts but in truth I was nowhere near. I fell off as many 7a's as I flashed which means I climbed worse than on most similar holidays in the last 25 years! The worst thing was my session fitness, after warm ups I only seemed to have one, at best two, goes in me and I'm not sure why that is, I've not been doing much routes volume lately but I'm usually better than that regardless. To add injury to insult I've come back 2lbs heavier at 11 8.5.All that said I'm not whinging too much, I had a good time with a good mate, missed some torrential weather here, ticked some quality routes and saw Alex Megos try First Round, First Minute at close quarters. Psyche for the winter training remains high - a murete!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Think it was from a railay breakfast buffet 😒
I think the electrolyte balance that's what's giving me the cramps and pins and needles. Turns out a lot of the water over there is distilled so has no minerals etc in it. Just gonna take it easy until I feel right again.
Think it was from a railay breakfast buffet 😒
I think the electrolyte balance that's what's giving me the cramps and pins and needles. Turns out a lot of the water over there is distilled so has no minerals etc in it. Just gonna take it easy until I feel right again.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking. At the moment I'm just enjoying it without too much focus on goals, hence keeping them quite loose. It was too much emphasis on goals that drove me away from it in the first place so my aim is to just follow the flow and enjoy what I'm doing. No doubt some goals will begin to surface as time goes on as that's how I'm wired. Although I have booked a week in Scotland at the beginning of March to do some winter mountaineering / climbing so keeping general fitness high for the walk-ins and bringing back some upper body strength would be nice. Legs are pretty good at the moment from quite a lot of biking and hill walking.
Goals: Fun and mental clarity. Maintain fitness. Improve upper body strength and climbing technique. Get on some ropes in prep for March.
M: Rest
T: 1.5hrs bike sweetspot intervals
W: Rest
T: Indoor bouldering at Awesome Walls (Stoke). Worked technique, easy circuits and then some harder problems in the cave and on the woody. Really enjoyed this but feel quite weak after the time away from climbing.
F: Rest
S: 2hr walk with the misses and the dog up to and around Llyn Elsi from Betws y Coed.
S: 4hr walk with the misses and the dog from Ogwen Cottage, up through Devil's Kitchen (some easy scrambling) to Y Garn and back down via the northern ridge. Great day out.
Current weight: 141 lbs
Thanks Viking. At the moment I'm just enjoying it without too much focus on goals, hence keeping them quite loose. It was too much emphasis on goals that drove me away from it in the first place so my aim is to just follow the flow and enjoy what I'm doing. No doubt some goals will begin to surface as time goes on as that's how I'm wired. Although I have booked a week in Scotland at the beginning of March to do some winter mountaineering / climbing so keeping general fitness high for the walk-ins and bringing back some upper body strength would be nice. Legs are pretty good at the moment from quite a lot of biking and hill walking.
Goals: Fun and mental clarity. Maintain fitness. Improve upper body strength and climbing technique. Get on some ropes in prep for March.
M: Rest
T: 1.5hrs bike sweetspot intervals
W: Rest
T: Indoor bouldering at Awesome Walls (Stoke). Worked technique, easy circuits and then some harder problems in the cave and on the woody. Really enjoyed this but feel quite weak after the time away from climbing.
F: Rest
S: 2hr walk with the misses and the dog up to and around Llyn Elsi from Betws y Coed.
S: 4hr walk with the misses and the dog from Ogwen Cottage, up through Devil's Kitchen (some easy scrambling) to Y Garn and back down via the northern ridge. Great day out.
Current weight: 141 lbs
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for the stats Viking. I did one core session, which is better than nothing. Feeling pretty low on psyche at the moment. I think I need to start training with other people more often. Well, at all really. Anybody up for TCA tomorrow (Tuesday) evening? Or somewhere in/near Bristol another evening this week?
M - Nothing (travel back from DC, got on the redeye)
T - Nothing (still travelling/tired/jetlagged)
W - Bouldering at Bloc, followed by core. Managed 2 yellows, and a purple 6C on the comp wall. I was struggling with this then saw Hannah (GB Youth team) do it. No new beta or anything, but I could see that she was actually trying. So I tried a bit harder. Apparently that works.
T - Rest (I was planning to do something but the jetlag kicked in with a vengeance and I only managed about 2 hours sleep)
F - 8.1km run. (Another shoddy night's sleep but I couldn't sack of training two days in a row.)
S - Nothing.
S - 8.3km run
Ok, reading back over that it does seem like the jetlag had some part to play in my perception of a poor week.
> Nick Russell: I understand that the walls in the US are weird then. Did you got some core sessions done this week?
Thanks for the stats Viking. I did one core session, which is better than nothing. Feeling pretty low on psyche at the moment. I think I need to start training with other people more often. Well, at all really. Anybody up for TCA tomorrow (Tuesday) evening? Or somewhere in/near Bristol another evening this week?
M - Nothing (travel back from DC, got on the redeye)
T - Nothing (still travelling/tired/jetlagged)
W - Bouldering at Bloc, followed by core. Managed 2 yellows, and a purple 6C on the comp wall. I was struggling with this then saw Hannah (GB Youth team) do it. No new beta or anything, but I could see that she was actually trying. So I tried a bit harder. Apparently that works.
T - Rest (I was planning to do something but the jetlag kicked in with a vengeance and I only managed about 2 hours sleep)
F - 8.1km run. (Another shoddy night's sleep but I couldn't sack of training two days in a row.)
S - Nothing.
S - 8.3km run
Ok, reading back over that it does seem like the jetlag had some part to play in my perception of a poor week.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing Fit Club Viking, I didn't get any leading in but did get 2 bouldering sessions in.
Monday: Bouldering for 2 hours, got frustrated at having gone back to my previous standard (6Aish) because I simply can't do rock overs to the right anymore.
Tuesday: Essay writing
Wednesday: 1km swim before work, Much baking after work
Thursday: Essay writing
Friday: Bouldering for 2 hours, still frustrated
Saturday: Essay writing
Sunday: Essay writing (nearly finished thankfully).
Monday: Bouldering, did a couple of problems in the 6A+-6B+ range so pretty happy about that, I think they just weren't dependent on my right foot too much.
Plan for next week:
Tuesday: 1km breast stroke before work, maybe some bouldering after work if essay is finished and packing happens.
Wednesday: 1km breast stroke before work
Thursday: Drive down to Loughborough in the evening.
Friday-Friday: Drive down to Gatwick and catch plane to Antalya for 1 week trip to Geyikbayiri, should be mega, been looking at the guidebook and I feel super psyched, hopefully my ankle holds up, if not I'll have my kindle with me and I won't be in the office which will be cool.
Short Term Goal (During Antalya trip): Lead 6a+ onsight (revised down heavily due to physio advice), I will try some 6bs if they look good with clear fall zones.
Medium Term Goal (Next 6 months): Redpoint F7a, headpoint E4
Long Term Goal (Next year - 18 months): Onsight F7a, Onsight E4
Thanks for doing Fit Club Viking, I didn't get any leading in but did get 2 bouldering sessions in.
Monday: Bouldering for 2 hours, got frustrated at having gone back to my previous standard (6Aish) because I simply can't do rock overs to the right anymore.
Tuesday: Essay writing
Wednesday: 1km swim before work, Much baking after work
Thursday: Essay writing
Friday: Bouldering for 2 hours, still frustrated
Saturday: Essay writing
Sunday: Essay writing (nearly finished thankfully).
Monday: Bouldering, did a couple of problems in the 6A+-6B+ range so pretty happy about that, I think they just weren't dependent on my right foot too much.
Plan for next week:
Tuesday: 1km breast stroke before work, maybe some bouldering after work if essay is finished and packing happens.
Wednesday: 1km breast stroke before work
Thursday: Drive down to Loughborough in the evening.
Friday-Friday: Drive down to Gatwick and catch plane to Antalya for 1 week trip to Geyikbayiri, should be mega, been looking at the guidebook and I feel super psyched, hopefully my ankle holds up, if not I'll have my kindle with me and I won't be in the office which will be cool.
Short Term Goal (During Antalya trip): Lead 6a+ onsight (revised down heavily due to physio advice), I will try some 6bs if they look good with clear fall zones.
Medium Term Goal (Next 6 months): Redpoint F7a, headpoint E4
Long Term Goal (Next year - 18 months): Onsight F7a, Onsight E4
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers Viking, best of luck for your last exam and make sure you celebrate (I'm sure you won't forget)
This week was indeed a XC league race well remembered!
M: am - 5M in 33:15, pm - 9M in 62:52
Tu: lunchtime - road session of 2 x (5 x 2:30) off 1min and 2 min between the sets, pretty windy but managed a good pace on the reps, 10M total, pm - 4/5M home in 28:11 going well
W: pm - 9/10M home in 62:05
Th: am - 4/5M to work in 31:05, pm - 4/5M home in 32:40
F: am - 25mins easy
Sa: pm - XC league - pretty cold due to very strong winds which made running into the wind hard. Warmed up ok but didn't start very well and found myself further back than normal around 15th. Completed the first small lap and started to go a bit better and moved up through into the top 10. Then set about catching people ahead and after the medium sized 2nd lap I was up into 5th just behind 4th with the big lap still to go. Got into 4th and put in a real effort to catch 3rd before the start of a long section into the wind. Got on just in time and then sneakily sat behind 3rd for the next mile into the wind. As soon as we turned I surged past and concentrated on going hard for the next 1min or so and when I looked up I realised I was catching 2nd! Caught 2nd just before the last 800m and despite moving into second on the last hill with 200m to go I ran out of steam and got out sprinted but 3rd wasn't bad and at least I paced the race well! 11/10M total. pm - got home and did another 5M in 33:04 feeling ok.
Su: easy 2:08:05 most of it with the wife (who was 2nd in her race on Sat) 17/18M.
Approx 82M total - pleased with the race on Sat despite a poor start as didn't really taper for it so managed to keep the miles high. This week will be more of a taper for road 10k on Sunday. fingers crossed for good weather with no wind!
Cheers Viking, best of luck for your last exam and make sure you celebrate (I'm sure you won't forget)
This week was indeed a XC league race well remembered!
M: am - 5M in 33:15, pm - 9M in 62:52
Tu: lunchtime - road session of 2 x (5 x 2:30) off 1min and 2 min between the sets, pretty windy but managed a good pace on the reps, 10M total, pm - 4/5M home in 28:11 going well
W: pm - 9/10M home in 62:05
Th: am - 4/5M to work in 31:05, pm - 4/5M home in 32:40
F: am - 25mins easy
Sa: pm - XC league - pretty cold due to very strong winds which made running into the wind hard. Warmed up ok but didn't start very well and found myself further back than normal around 15th. Completed the first small lap and started to go a bit better and moved up through into the top 10. Then set about catching people ahead and after the medium sized 2nd lap I was up into 5th just behind 4th with the big lap still to go. Got into 4th and put in a real effort to catch 3rd before the start of a long section into the wind. Got on just in time and then sneakily sat behind 3rd for the next mile into the wind. As soon as we turned I surged past and concentrated on going hard for the next 1min or so and when I looked up I realised I was catching 2nd! Caught 2nd just before the last 800m and despite moving into second on the last hill with 200m to go I ran out of steam and got out sprinted but 3rd wasn't bad and at least I paced the race well! 11/10M total. pm - got home and did another 5M in 33:04 feeling ok.
Su: easy 2:08:05 most of it with the wife (who was 2nd in her race on Sat) 17/18M.
Approx 82M total - pleased with the race on Sat despite a poor start as didn't really taper for it so managed to keep the miles high. This week will be more of a taper for road 10k on Sunday. fingers crossed for good weather with no wind!
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking.
The kids I coach is a mixture of basic instruction to performance coaching, so I have to muddle through as can't do anything properly at once, and only get an hour a week. The best one is competitive, and the rest are mostly beginners with various levels of drive! My own climbing last week was pretty rubbish (only 3 poor quality sessions), and sadly the lurgy has taken full hold so I am pathetic and grumpy about it right now.
M - coaching, but no personal climbing.
T - Boulder Big Rock - a couple of easy ticks on the WBL and some technical work
W - rest
T - rest
F - Brookes attempt at autobelay 4x4s but gave up after one set
S - Bath Christmas Market with mother and grandmother. Complete **** show.
S - Boulder Big Rock - some more middle ticks on WBL and then collapsed.
I go to Mallorca in a fortnight and have developed no stamina and am losing my existing strength. ARGH.
Thanks Viking.
The kids I coach is a mixture of basic instruction to performance coaching, so I have to muddle through as can't do anything properly at once, and only get an hour a week. The best one is competitive, and the rest are mostly beginners with various levels of drive! My own climbing last week was pretty rubbish (only 3 poor quality sessions), and sadly the lurgy has taken full hold so I am pathetic and grumpy about it right now.
M - coaching, but no personal climbing.
T - Boulder Big Rock - a couple of easy ticks on the WBL and some technical work
W - rest
T - rest
F - Brookes attempt at autobelay 4x4s but gave up after one set
S - Bath Christmas Market with mother and grandmother. Complete **** show.
S - Boulder Big Rock - some more middle ticks on WBL and then collapsed.
I go to Mallorca in a fortnight and have developed no stamina and am losing my existing strength. ARGH.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks, but like I said, last week wasn't a typical week and it skewed the month a bit! No special goals, just to try and keep it up do about 30km/week.
Unfortunately, last week was a dead loss, was off ill on Mon & Tue (chest infection) and very under the weather for the rest of the week, to the extent that I did NOTHING
> Hokkyokusei: Sounds like you’ve taken good steps on injury prevention. That’s quite some mileage in the month! Do you have any special goals regarding that?
Thanks, but like I said, last week wasn't a typical week and it skewed the month a bit! No special goals, just to try and keep it up do about 30km/week.
Unfortunately, last week was a dead loss, was off ill on Mon & Tue (chest infection) and very under the weather for the rest of the week, to the extent that I did NOTHING
In reply to 0.5viking:
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly, Mr V, glad someone's keeping us rabble in some sort of semblance of order!
Training Diary WC 30/11/15
Picking up the Pieces
Monday – Easy/Tempo Run – 8.9km in 41:04 at 4:36m/km pace. GAP 4:30m/km as 134m of ascent. Picked up speed as it went on. DIY.
Tuesday – TCA – ticked another seven Oranges (6B to 7B circuit) including 4 onsights/flashes – one of them a 7A (it says on the door) which I’m quite proud of. Got a bit closer on a super slopey one too… Finished with a cruise around a 6a+/6b on the steep circuit board and it the easiest a circuit has felt, which is great after more than two hours of giving it the beans on hard (for me) boulder problems.
Wednesday – Easy/Tempo Run with Tom – 10.2km in 46:27 at 4:32m/km pace. GAP 4:28m/km as 130m of ascent. Legs and lungs felt good.
Thursday – TCA – on the Mothership. Fell off of a superb slopey 7A a lot as well as a few other bits and bobs around the 6C – 7A+ mark.
Friday – Rest.
Saturday – DIY all day except for...Intevals – 8 x 400m at 84s w/1min rests. Up by up to 8s on each one. Felt fab to be out in the daylight, the dry and to actually have some speed in my legs again after the last few weeks.
Sunday – DIY all day except for a session at Bloc with Tom. Repeated a yellow (6C+ ish) and fell off of lots of things at around 6C+ on the comp wall before falling off of some circuits once tired out. Great fun.
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - nope.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) – still improving.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope - wet).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – nope – too much DIY to do.
Weight = 70.0kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly, Mr V, glad someone's keeping us rabble in some sort of semblance of order!
Training Diary WC 30/11/15
Picking up the Pieces
Monday – Easy/Tempo Run – 8.9km in 41:04 at 4:36m/km pace. GAP 4:30m/km as 134m of ascent. Picked up speed as it went on. DIY.
Tuesday – TCA – ticked another seven Oranges (6B to 7B circuit) including 4 onsights/flashes – one of them a 7A (it says on the door) which I’m quite proud of. Got a bit closer on a super slopey one too… Finished with a cruise around a 6a+/6b on the steep circuit board and it the easiest a circuit has felt, which is great after more than two hours of giving it the beans on hard (for me) boulder problems.
Wednesday – Easy/Tempo Run with Tom – 10.2km in 46:27 at 4:32m/km pace. GAP 4:28m/km as 130m of ascent. Legs and lungs felt good.
Thursday – TCA – on the Mothership. Fell off of a superb slopey 7A a lot as well as a few other bits and bobs around the 6C – 7A+ mark.
Friday – Rest.
Saturday – DIY all day except for...Intevals – 8 x 400m at 84s w/1min rests. Up by up to 8s on each one. Felt fab to be out in the daylight, the dry and to actually have some speed in my legs again after the last few weeks.
Sunday – DIY all day except for a session at Bloc with Tom. Repeated a yellow (6C+ ish) and fell off of lots of things at around 6C+ on the comp wall before falling off of some circuits once tired out. Great fun.
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - nope.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) – still improving.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope - wet).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – nope – too much DIY to do.
Weight = 70.0kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
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