UKC

Hi has anyone been or got the new guidebook? Looking for new winter venues.......does oman have much for the vs/ 5c sports climber? Any recommendations re where to stay, must do multi pitch routes, flights, when to go?
Thanks

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:
How new is this new guidebook. I got one about 4 years ago. Is there one out since then?

we camped at Wonderwall, which is great camping.
Also camped a Hatta, not so good.
Camped at the DWS place near Muscat, can't remember the name.

We didn't do any multi pitch really.

First time I flew Lufthansa, which was cheaper but hard work. Second time I flew overnight from Manc with Etihad/Emerates. This was ultra efficient but exhausting as I landed around 3am UK time. But managed 4 days climbing, including 2 days DWS in late November/December from only 2 days annual leave. Which was frankly stunning.
It cost around £320 LHansa and just under £400 with Emerates.

Go October onwards unless you like hot. Like I say, we DWSd in November and it was toasty.

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

I think there was a new guidebook in sept 2014. See climb europe website for more details

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

Is this the book by Jakob Oberhauser? If so, it's not too good for the cragging venues as it assumes you already know your way around. Apparently it's not so bad for the multi pitch routes though, but I have no direct experience.

There is a website, climbingOman, that has lots of good topos on it though. Most of the areas have climbing from f5 upwards in some lovely locations. We also found that you could camp wild everywhere that there was climbing. The nicest spot was at the top of snake canyon, right next to the entrance to the claiming area - little abandoned terraces with a freshwater stream beneath.

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

we spent time at wadi daykah and kubrah canyon in 2011, both max 1,5 hours from muscat (opposite directions) sport in your grades 2-3 days each ... used oman climbing site for topos. climbing was great in a very special environment. camped free in both places.

trad tends to be serious, and with hard grading. we did a route on nizwa towers, which was wonderful, but something like 1 peg / 3 slings on 150m of climbing. in most places you are kind of off - so you should be very sure of what you do.

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

dont forget snorkel gear - sea life is a real pleasure in Oman even if visibility is not great.

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:


I've just got back from Jordan (Wadi rum) and the temperature was perfect.

In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:

I have the 2014 Jakob Oberhauser guide. It is a slim volume for the considerable cost but it does the job. I was there over last Christmas and New Year (I would only go mid winter!) and the guide was fine for the multipitch stuff we were interested in (I don't know about sport and single pitch - it's wasn't what I went for!). The climbing can be as adventurous as you want (Jebel Misht is huge!), but we did some shady multipitch climbing across the valley on immaculate limestone.

There is a Climbing In Oman facebook group - I occasionally look at it and it seems to be mostly locals going cragging but might be good for contacts.

Oman is a stunningly, fabulously beautiful and welcoming country and I don't think I've ever felt so safe just travelling on my own anywhere. The coast and deserts are stunning and the people wonderfully helpful and hospitable. Getting around in a hire car is easy on excellent roads though a 4WD would certainly be useful if you can afford it.

I just camped roadside or up tracks or backpacked. As long as you are away from houses, this was absolutely fine.

Last time I looked Turkish Airlines from the UK to Muscat were not much over £300 for some dates (with a free 40kg baggage allowance if you fly from Edinburgh!).

I'm hoping to go back next Christmas if I can find a climbing partner who can escape the "festive season" here for the sunny Islamic world! Anyone interested?!

In reply to David Coley:


I've also (not entirely coincidentally) just got back from Wadi Rum!

Climbers (and tourists) have largely deserted the place, presumably put off by the general Middle East situation. A glance at a map of the countries surrounding Jordan might, understandably, be discouraging........ It was nevertheless just as welcoming and apparently safe (and the climbing and the desert just as fabulous!) as on all my previous visits over the last 12 years. Your tourist pounds would be very welcome.

It is worth noting that Turkish airlines (with their 40kg baggage allowance if you fly from Edinburgh!) now fly to Aqaba. The airport is only 50 mins by taxi from Rum (as opposed to about 4 hrs from Amman) and, since this is a special economic zone, you also escape the £40 charge for a visa on entry. Petra is also much closer to Aqaba than to Amman (and, if it bothers you, Syria is much further away).

Rum is cooler that Oman. Whereas I'd only go to Oman mid winter, Rum is great from November to Easter and can be pretty cold (sub zero at night) but perfect in the sun in winter. The desert is at its most beautiful with flowers in the spring though.

In reply to Robert Durran:

Let me add to the chorus - did a week long trip to Oman in late Feb. 2014 & so only did the French Pillar. Very friendly people (never had such an easy time hitching a ride back to our car....though they seem to love tailgating - a bit exciting at 140km/h). Really want to go back. Some of the routes look incredible, eg. Wadi Tiwi walls or stuff on Nizwa Towers.

In reply to rpc:


ONLY! Very envious! It's only one of the finest looking lines in the world........ Yes, when I hitched round to retrieve a preplaced car after abandoning our attempt on the French Pillar (I'll be back......the second pitch of perfect rough limestone would get three stars in Pembroke) my first lift offered to take me to feed his camels and the second invited me to his village for coffee. Unfortunately I had limited time so declined both offers.

Camping near Misht, a local policeman stopped by, offered to bring me water and gave me his private phone number in case I had any trouble or needed anything. The true spirit of desert hospitality lives on in Oman.


Yes. can't wait to get back there!

In reply to Robert Durran:

…so true!! When my wife & I came off the backside of the Misht we were not exactly looking too inviting. Having slept on the route, we were parched and less than fresh. While waiting for a coffee shop in the village to open to buy drinks, a couple of couple villagers stopped by and just gave us water. Another guy in a shiny new pick up (and even cleaner white robe) gave us a lift back to the other side where our camp was (insisted that we join him inside the pristine, air conditioned cabin) …not only that, he offered to take us through the boulder filled river bed all the way to our camp. We declined seeing how new his car was…so he gave us his cell # with a standing offer of help should we need it. One of the best trips of our lives – amazing place, amazing people, stunning limestone. Daydreaming about a trip back.

PS we were lucky with the climbing working out well in the short amount of time we had. You should definitely go back.