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headlamp buying

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vasandra 16 Dec 2015
Hey everyone,
I’m a beginner, but I’m buying some equipment and gear now. Winter climbing is not for me, so I’m waiting for summer. I’m puzzled with the headlamp now. Anyway, it is more convenient than flashlight. I do not want to buy law-quality headlamp. What brands are more preferred among mountain climbers?
Thanks
 Wingnut 16 Dec 2015
In reply to vasandra:

Not a recommendation for a brand as such, but try to avoid getting one where the batteries are round the back on the end of a cable. I've had several of these from various manufacturers, and they've invariably ended up developing a loose connection.
3
 alasdair19 16 Dec 2015
In reply to vasandra:

petzl or black Diamond are the t op brands. Alpkit is the best value. frankly modern headlamps are amazing.
 StuDoig 17 Dec 2015
In reply to vasandra:

You won't go far wrong with Petzl or BD as folk above have said. LED Lensor torches are also good quality. I'm not a fan of the Alpkit torches - the quality seems lower and from my group of friends, we've seen a much higher failure rate than amongst "name" brands. Alpkit do replace very quickly and almost without question if you do have a problem though.

I don't agree with avoiding separate battery packs - for climbing / mountaineering I've never only ever had these and never once had a problem with a connector failing, even with pretty harsh regular use.

Be wary of power / duration quotes - they are normally extremely misleading. The standard most companies apply allows them to keep the clock running in their test until the light output has dropped to 10% of it's starting value (e.g. 200lumens for 4 hrs would only be running at 20 lumens by the time you reached 4 hrs.). If you search individual torches then you'll find reviews where the light output over time is measured independently.

Petzl are a notable exception to this - if you buy a torch with their "constant lighting" sticker then you get the claimed value for the quoted duration.

Batteries are the other thing to think about. Are you going to be out for days at a time, when a rechargeable battery will start to be a problem? If so stick to AA or AAA batteries, if your unlikely to have a problem charging batteries (and mostly people wont - it's rare you need to run on full whack for hours at a time.....) then rechargeable cell torches can be handy (my running / cycling torches are all usb rechargeable and it's much less hassle and waste than non-rechargeables I used to have!)

Personal favourites would be
Petzl Myo RXP - great balance of power/duration/weight - my current personal torch.
Black Diamond Icon - heavier but longer run times and very robust.
Petzl Tikka RXP - great for running, but lithium ion batteries which I prefer to avoid for mountaineering torch (personal opinion though - others will disagree I'm sure!).
I've used LED Lenser 14.2, good torch but heavy - the 7.2 would be a better one I think.
Petzl Pixa3. Designed as a "working" torch, but really good general purpose / walking torch! Very robust, great switch for use with gloved hands and a mechanical locking mechanism (twisting the torch body 180 degrees) that prevents it being accidentally switched on.

As Alasdair said, most modern torches are pretty awesome pieces of kit, you won't go far wrong if you by from a reputable brand.

Cheers and hopefully useful!

Stuart
vasandra 17 Dec 2015
In reply to StuDoig:

Thanks Stuart and other guys
I have decided with the brand, I’ll take Pitzel. I have not made up my mind as for the model yet, but I want to choose anything that will not be bulky. For example I had this one https://www.mrosupply.com/lighting/emergency-lighting/flashlights/1750335_6... when we were camping. I liked its size and brightness, but I can not find it (possibly it is lost).
 climbwhenready 17 Dec 2015
In reply to vasandra:

I don't know what your budget is, but I would avoid the cheapest ones on the market because it's one of the most safety-critical things you take into the mountains (if there's any chance you'll be there post-sunset).

I like the Petzl Tikka XP.

Always take a spare set of batteries!
 andrewmc 17 Dec 2015
In reply to climbwhenready:

> Always take a spare set of batteries!

Arguably, take a spare headtorch (e.g. Petzl E-lite, probably weighs less than a spare set of AAs...). The David Coley/AK book also suggests tying your headtorch on with a bit of thin accessory cord.

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