UKC

Replacing a fence post

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 d508934 17 Dec 2015
So how straight forward is this for an averagely competent DIYer, but currently with no fencing tools or fence erecting experience? Just one wooden post that is knackered/rotten at the bottom and now held up by adjacent panels.

If set in concrete how easy to remove the old broken bits and slot in a new one? Presumably easier if one of those metal spikes was used.

Cheers in advance for any tips!
 balmybaldwin 17 Dec 2015
In reply to d508934:
the Metal Spikes are pretty rubbish. Easiest way would be to dig beside the existing post and cement in a small spur post that you then bolt your new post (or the old post if it's still good) to.


Like this: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=fence+spur+post&rls=com.microsoft:en-GB:I...
Post edited at 13:21
 EddInaBox 17 Dec 2015
In reply to d508934:

If it's set in concrete you may want to redo the job if it wasn't done properly in the first place. Posts set in concrete rot if there is no way for the water to drain, there should be course gravel in the bottom and the top should be gently domed, just rising above ground level where the concrete meets the post, to encourage water to run off rather than pool.
In reply to d508934:

> So how straight forward is this for an averagely competent DIYer, but currently with no fencing tools or fence erecting experience? Just one wooden post that is knackered/rotten at the bottom and now held up by adjacent panels.

> If set in concrete how easy to remove the old broken bits and slot in a new one? Presumably easier if one of those metal spikes was used.

Very easy. If the base of the post is rotten and set in concrete you can remove the rotten timber down into the concrete base using a steel bar. You then have a slot left in the concrete into which you can push a new post, with the aid of few whacks from a sledge, and maybe some washing-up liquid as a lubricant on the post-end. However, you need exactly the same size post (in section) as before, and if the existing post is planed, you also need the new one to be planed as the extra few millimetres for a standard sawn section will mean it won't fit.

Of course it'll rot off again within 5 years or so. But it's a quick fix, and i've done multiple times on my boundary fences.

If the concrete base starts rotating as you dig out the rotten timber, then dig out the whole lot and do the job properly.

 DrIan 17 Dec 2015
In reply to d508934:

The previous owners of my house liked to concrete posts in with about 4 times as much concrete as you actually need, when taking out the old posts for the washing line and replacing various fence posts, after mostly digging it out the concrete blocks were physically too big and heavy to pull or lift out.

A sledge hammer and used that to break it up into smaller chunks. I did start off with using a heavy metal spike too but found out just whacking it with the sledge hammer works a lot better to crack it.

A metal lump hammer also works well if you need to get into a small space too.

Remember eye protection

OP d508934 17 Dec 2015
In reply to DrIan:

thanks all for responses. i think if it is set in concrete and can't get new post to fit exactly in the slot I'll get someone in. another 5 years would do me fine!
 ByEek 17 Dec 2015
In reply to d508934:

> thanks all for responses. i think if it is set in concrete and can't get new post to fit exactly in the slot I'll get someone in. another 5 years would do me fine!

When you say set in concrete, is that in a concrete driveway for example or just a lump of concrete set in soil? If the later, it wouldn't be too hard to dig out. You then have a ready made hole in which to set a new post. You can buy bags of fence post ready-mix-concrete. Just buy one bag and follow the instructions. It isn't rocket science. Whoever you pay to do it will be laughing all the way to the bank!
OP d508934 17 Dec 2015
In reply to ByEek:

if it is set in concrete will just be a block surrounded by soil.

i know it's straightforward to set a new one in post crete if you have done it before - but how on earth do you get new post to sit and stay in exactly right position (inline with rest of fence) while you pour in post crete??

I guess there loads of online guides for this, I'll have a look.

my hope though is that current dodgy one is in metal spike that i can remove and replace much easier than messing about with concrete.
 ByEek 17 Dec 2015
In reply to d508934:

> i know it's straightforward to set a new one in post crete if you have done it before - but how on earth do you get new post to sit and stay in exactly right position (inline with rest of fence) while you pour in post crete??

Either you employ wife / girlfriend, chock it with a load of spare bricks and stones you have lying around, or make a temporary wooden thingie-me-bob that will hold it straight whilst the concrete is being poured. I think the stuff I used was poured into the hole and then you add water. It doesn't set right away so you have plenty of time to wiggle the post into the correct position.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...