UKC

Is an open-sided squeeze chimney an "off-width"?

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 humptydumpty 17 Dec 2015
Can a crack that you can fit in ever be considered an off-width? I'm thinking of very thin chimneys, too small to back-and-foot, where you might end up arm-bar-and-flailing instead.
 deepsoup 17 Dec 2015
In reply to humptydumpty:
I think if your body fits inside then it isn't an offwidth by definition.
 krikoman 17 Dec 2015
In reply to deepsoup:

> I think if your body fits inside then it isn't an offwidth by definition.

I always thought an offwidth was any crack that you couldn't really get established in, so on which was too small to actually move in.
1
 dagibbs 17 Dec 2015
In reply to humptydumpty:

My understanding is that an "off-width" is the size range that is too large for fists, but too small to get your body into. Once you can fit your body into the crack, that is the start of "squeeze chimney".

Also, "squeeze chimney" is not, necessarily, easier to climb than "off-width", both are awful, ugly, physical, flailing type climbing where you fight and fight and fight for hours on end, and find you've made 3 inches of progress.
cb294 17 Dec 2015
In reply to humptydumpty:

A ladiesĀ“ squeeze chimney is a well built gentlemanĀ“s offwidth.

Differences are gradual, for any person size there will be a crack size that lends itself either to climbing by standard offwidth techniques (armbars, chickenwings, only one leg or hip inside the crack, body at least partly outside) or squeeze chimney technique (body largely inside the crack, knee/heel bridging, arse jams, and general, undignified thrutching).

CB
cb294 17 Dec 2015
In reply to dagibbs:

Both squeeze chimneys and wide offwidths are an acquired taste, but a little bit of technique can make all the difference. One of the logbook comments for the climb linked to by Ivanator mentions getting pumped by chicken winging all the way. I have not done that climb, but it sounded a bit strange to me: If the width is such that you can chicken wing you can typically also use foot/knee locks to give you hands free rests whenever you want, at least as long as the crack is roughly vertical.

CB
 Michael Gordon 17 Dec 2015
In reply to dagibbs:

Would say that squeeze chimneys, though often nasty, are nearly always easier than offwidths. I agree that in general if it's one it's not the other, though of course cracks often change from one to another
 Offwidth 17 Dec 2015
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Way easier unless the offwidth is on a slab... you can just wiggle up a sqeeze chimney whereas an offwidth anywhere near vertical needs skill and more effort. A good test is the V1 offwidth flare at the Roaches Spring Boulders... once you can do it repeat without any footholds on the outside.

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