UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 457

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 0.5viking 20 Dec 2015
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=630701
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/8169846 an egoistic choice of video. I’m hoping to visit that area next week, although I won’t be trying that route, but I found it an inspiring ascent.

Didn’t get round to checking the stats, so sorry if I missed someone or sentences are unclear. Wish you all a good Christmas!

Dandan82: Hmm torn tendon doesn’t sound good . Good that you’re keeping up with the rehab! For the sleeping with arms straight while asleep, I tend to not move that much after falling asleep, that’s how it works for me, but if you move a lot during sleep it doesn’t work of course.
Robin Brooke: Nice that technique is on level with climbing the thin/balancy routes! For the steep/powerfull routes some bouldering might help?
The Ex-Engineer: Bummer that your outdoor session wasn’t as succesfull as last weeks one! Did you got round to trying the 2 routes again this week?
Biscuit: Always annoying when a sandbag destroys the session! How was the coaching session? Do you have some new goals?
AJM: How is the elbow this week? Did you managed some climbing this week or was the Christmas stuff getting in the way?
James Moyle: Good that FC is motivating you! Nice that you’re climbing with your daughter, always fun to share a hobby. How was this weeks training?
Hokkyokusei: Congrats on the better time this season! Did you recover fully or did the race slowed recovery?
Joyce: Good on your way then with the oranges! Are you planning to put some effort in the remaining 5/6 that you think will go?
Hms: Good comeback to training, despite feeling week on monday! Did you tried the comp problems this week?
Flopsicle: Nope you’re not the only one, I also found it hard to do all the exercises everytime . Congrats on your first 6c! Did you were as active this week?
Ian Bell: Good that you’re rethinking your goals for Tenerife! Did you got back into the core exercises this week?
Ally Smith: Bummer your partner for Spain is injured. Hope he recovers in time! Did you manage to train this week or were the social engagements in the way?
Stevemarkperry: It definitely helped me two years ago, this year I thought I’d be fine, but heavy pack caused some trouble. How was training this week?
Richard Popp: Sounds smart to take a break from climbing while life is being busy! Did you manage get enough sleep and did a fingerboard session?
Mattrm: Good to just focus on ticking over while being busy! Did you climb some this week? And already some less busy period in sight?

Nick Russell: With your structured goals it should be motivating to get back to hard training! How was this week? Did it help with the structured goals?
Humperdink: Congrats on the sub 31! Did you up the mileage again this week? And do you have a new time or mileage goal?
Luke Owens: Welcome back! Do you have any goals to train for this winter? Looks like you had a good week last week!
TonyB: Sounds hard a 40m 7a+! How was the bouldering comp?
Spenser: Good you enjoyed Geyikbayiri and got round to some climbing! How was this week? You planned loads of climbing!
Just Tintin: Bummer that lurgy is still bothering you and also affected this week, hopefully next week will be better!

AWOL: 0.5viking
 spenser 20 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

The the loads of climbing was meant for this week, I only got back from Geyikbayiri on friday evening!
I'll just stick the plan in for this week again, bit more reasonable than the plan I made yesterday:
Sunday: Bouldering
Monday: Swimming before work or bouldering after work
Tuesday: Swimming before work or general training at the wall.
Wednesday: Swimming before work or bouldering after work
Thursday: After work bouldering
Friday: Driving home for christmas, possibly stop off and do some bouldering somewhere on the way home, depends on kicking out time at work.
Saturday/ Sunday: Christmas, anything will depend on family plans.
 Humperdink 20 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

> Humperdink: Congrats on the sub 31! Did you up the mileage again this week? And do you have a new time or mileage goal?

Thanks Viking and thanks for the stats as usual! Still in the nice warm glow of last weeks performance, next goals are below. Coach was nice and let me off a Tuesday session in order to fully recover from the race.

STG's: Dec - another 90M week next week, solid run in 10M race
Jan - top 5 at county XC, top 30 at South of England XC
Feb - top 60 at National XC, another 10K

M: am - 10/11M in 69:45 tried to keep it steady, pm - 4/5M in 29:15 feeling good and still on a high from the race
Tu: am - 10/11M in 70:35 legs a bit sore, pm - 4/5M home in 31:43 tired + sore legs, race finally catching up with me
W: am - 4/5M to work in 31:34, pm - 10M home in 68:27
Th: am - 10/11M in 69:30, pm - works Christmas do, had a a couple of drinks and slunk off early before the drinking got serious!
F: pm - 5M easy with the wife in 40:59
Sa: am - Off-road session in the woods. Did 8 x loop (loop starts with a 50sec pretty steep hill then flat for a couple of mins and then downhill gradually back to the start) 90 seconds recovery between reps. Ran well, feeling good apart from up the hill the last couple of times! Times were: 3:49, 3:49, 3:47, 3:47, 3:47, 3:48, 3:48, 3:45. 10/11M total, pm - 4/5M easy in 31:42 felt tired
Su: am - 55mins easy with the wife then picked it up for the last 70 mins. Total - 17/18M in 2:06:41

Total Mileage ~90M struggled in the early part of the week to recover from the race and do the miles but got there in the end and it should all help for 9 miles in the mud at the end of Jan.

Merry Christmas all!!
 James Moyle 20 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Thanks 0.5Viking

Up to three sessions this week but the Christmas excesses have started to kick in so all cancelled out!

Wed - Run 5.7km 125m ascent
Fri - Bouldering with Neve
Sun - Hilly Cycle - 550m in 23km

Weight - back up a couple of pounds 12st 12
Alcohol: quite good until yesterday...then two meals out (Steak Frites TWICE!!) and over the weekly reccommended amount in one day. I can't imagine it will be any better next week!
 biscuit 20 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks Viking. It was more illness than the hard route tbh.

This week has been: 2 days in college (end of term exam, end of term assignment deadline), a full day of being coached in Kendal, 43 hrs in work, my coaching assessment, an emergency trip to the vets ( all ok in the end ) and a burst water main in the garden. Just 4 hrs to go in work and i'm done for Xmas. No time for any climbing other than what i did at my coaching assessment. Still felt a bit more whacked after that than i feel i should have done but when i look at my week it was quite busy/stressy.

I've got a training plan sorted with a peak in Easter as a tester to see how it's going (I'm considering an on-sighting trip to Chulilla) and then the proper peak in Summer. It is periodised, but not so i'm going to find it stressful if i miss a session here and there, and it's manageable and simple. On the movement side of things John gave me a magic bullet for why i've always been weak on steep stuff with bad holds. Absolute winner. Can't wait to get stuck in.

I've still only got rough notes. I'm going to write it up and flesh the plan out over the next few days. STG's will just be sessions to do each week and anagonist stuff and maybe stick a goal for the Easter trip as a MTG.
Post edited at 17:07
 robbiebrookie 20 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:
> Robin Brooke: Nice that technique is on level with climbing the thin/balancy routes! For the steep/powerfull routes some bouldering might help?

Thanks Viking, and good idea. Rested Sun-Wed to let the shoulder pinch continue to subside which it has. Some progress solving a sequence on the red 7a, and some 7a and 6c+ repeats. Another week of working these then start some focused endurance and strength training in Jan.

M: Rest (and some painting and decorating)

T: Rest. Shoulder ex.

W: Pilates 60min

Th: Leading at Castle (wells). 6c (mint), 6c+ (blue, off at dyno move near top), 6c+ (blue, RP), 7a (Black, RP), 7a (Red, RP attempt to penultimate clip. steep/powerful/dynamic). Warm-ups: 5+, 6a+, 6b

F: Rest

S: Leading at Castle: 6c+ (pink), 7a (black), 7a (red, worked out the final move now), 7a (beige), 6c. Warm-ups: 5+, 6a+, 6b, 6b+.

Su: Rest. Shoulder ex.

STG:
Indoor 6c+ & 7a RP's to new year
Get my Girlfriend recovered from her achilles tendon injury asap! She is weighting it now and the airboot to come off on 30th Dec.
Start six week endurance and strength cycle in January

MTG:
7a & 7a+ RP outdoor in 2016
E2 & E3 HP in 2016
Post edited at 18:16
 TonyB 20 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

> TonyB: Sounds hard a 40m 7a+! How was the bouldering comp?

Thanks. It felt fairly fair for 7a+, but could have been dropable right from the top. I fumbled clipping the anchor as it was surprisingly hard to pull up the rope one handed.

Tue - we had our annual club Christmas bouldering comp. It's a small group but is always fun. I managed to come first in the men by a small margin and my wife came first in the ladies. As I have been behind in my training I also managed to get some aerobic training done afterwards.
Wed - another work Christmas dinner (does everyone else have multiple Christmas dinners?)
Thur - core
Fri - bouldering long rests, weighted pull ups, rings and shoulder stability (long session!)
Sat - core and fingerboard
Sun - bouldering at Burbage West. I tried The Nose (f7A) and Breakfast (f7A) both 7A and didn't manage either. I really do need to get more practice outside.

I'm not really going to set any goals for next week. I should be able to train Mon-Wed but then will be at my mother in law's house and don't have access to any training facilities. I suppose I could at least get some core done though.


 Nick Russell 20 Dec 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:
> Nick Russell: With your structured goals it should be motivating to get back to hard training! How was this week? Did it help with the structured goals?

Hi Viking, thanks for the stats. Yeah, it's good to have something to aim for, we'll see how that pans out in the long term.

I've been getting a bit concerned about a pain in my wrist. Same wrist, different side: this time at the base of my thumb. It mostly bothers me cycling, doing press-ups on rings and kneading dough, so I can probably manage it without impacting my climbing! My shins have been feeling a bit tender, but I'm only trying to maintain some semblance of a base running so again, I can probably manage that.

M - 8.5km run
T - Bouldering, TCA. Worked around remaining blacks (that circuit in the middle of a reset), plus a good green on the Mothership (6C?)
W - Work Christmas social: mountain biking and volleyball.
T - Indoor routes, UCR. Flashed a (soft?) 7a, yellow, by the cupboards. Second go on another, black+green, on the prow.
F - 6k run
S - Bouldering, Bloc. Did a few steep blues, and played around with some hands-free climbing on the slab.

Weight: 66.5kg. I'll call it 'seasonal variation' rather than lack of willpower.

STG - build some strength/fitness
  • 14 climbing sessions by end of Jan (average 2 per week, indoor or out, routes or bouldering. Just keep doing some climbing!) 3/14
  • 7 fingerboard sessions by end of Jan (average 1 per week) 0/7
  • Core set after every indoor climbing session 3/3 100%
  • 70km running by end of January (average 10km per week) 14.5/70

    MTG
  • spring: keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Star Wars (E4 5c), Central Wall (E4 6a), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...
  • summer/autumn sport trip: Ceuse or Frankenjura? Route objectives TBC when I actually plan something

    BHAG
  • The Long Hope Route
  •  AJM 20 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    > AJM: How is the elbow this week? Did you managed some climbing this week or was the Christmas stuff getting in the way?

    Elbow seems to be fine, fingers crossed and touch wood and all that.

    I didn't do any training, but I did get outside yesterday. A few easy routes and a 7a, on which I spent some time pulling far too hard trying my partners beta (little slots I had to crimp the edges of) before unlocking the correct method for me (just go slightly to one side and do big reaches). Not a bad day out.

    I was going to fingerboard today but got sidetracked by Xmas drinks. Otherwise the week was chocabloc with Christmas stuff or catching up on sleep from too much Christmas related jollity.
     AJM 20 Dec 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    Update: decided to man up and do a fingerboard session whilst listening to Randall on TrainingBeta.

    Fingerboard 2 session. Max weight double pull-ups as Ally listed last week. On my 19mm edge I could do 2 pull-ups at +18.5kg (on top of the Xmas drinks and a takeaway curry so total weight of 94.2kg - the real weight measure to track I think). Tried with +20kg and managed 1 pullup and starting to come back up on the second but couldn't finish the second off.

    Once I get the weight a bit higher I will consider switching down to the smaller edges on the beast maker 2000.
    In reply to 0.5viking:
    Unfortunately not a good week. My enthusiasm for rock has finally run out along with the weather and I probably need to start thinking about transitioning to Winter climbing to start in January.

    M - Token Bouldering effort.
    T-S - Nil. Being lazy and lacking in pysche.

    Off to enjoy some sunshine over the Xmas holidays (and probably look at some very old and supposedly impressive pentahedrons in the desert) so I won't do much this coming week either.
     Dandan 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    > Dandan82: Hmm torn tendon doesn’t sound good . Good that you’re keeping up with the rehab! For the sleeping with arms straight while asleep, I tend to not move that much after falling asleep, that’s how it works for me, but if you move a lot during sleep it doesn’t work of course.

    Thanks Viking,
    Some small improvement this week! I did 2 core sessions and a metric tonne of rehab, definitely noticed an improvement in mobility and les pain when performing small actions like doing up buttons, picking up cups and plates, stuff like that.
    I had my dad round on Saturday to cut down a bay tree next to my garage, I'm going to build a new garage and the only thing stopping me is my dodgy elbows so I thought I would rope in my dad to start the work and I would watch! It was more depressing than I expected, turns out I actively enjoy hard work, so watching my dad and being unable to help was really frustrating. I did do a couple of things like putting the sawn branches in a pile and scraping off some ivy from the old garage walls, even though it caused a couple of small tweaks. (I'm too stupid for words sometimes)
    So I was annoyed with myself for once again pushing ahead before my elbows are ready for it, but by mid afternoon the elbows felt ok and by evening they felt better than they had in a long time! Perhaps a little bit of work was good medicine? Just another example of the unpredictability of the issue!

    Plan over crimbo is to just stick with the rehab, maybe attempt a tiny bit of work to see if I can repeat the results from Saturday, but nothing significant. I've been referred to the local orthopaedic team, no doubt they will offer physio or surgery, still not sure I want to go under the knife...
     Ian Bell 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Thanks for the stats Viking and an early happy Xmas to all.

    STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year). Looking tough after about a month off but will keep it as a goal.
    STG = just about managed to restrain the gluttony this week so DONE
    MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
    BHAG = 8a by 40

    Tues – 1,100m swim
    Weds – 30 mins yoga
    Sun - Bouldering. 10-15 routes around V2 ish.

    Abs and everything suffered a bit this week as both gf and I had Xmas lurgy. Still lurking but feeling a bit better. Pleasing that elbows coped OK with the bouldering although required quite a lot of stretching in the midst of it. Still feel like i could probably pull hard (ish) moves despite almost 6 weeks off, I just don't want to in case I damage something more. Hopefully be OK enough to get on some low 7s in Tenerife or at least some 6cs.

    Off to parents on Weds so no climbing for a week then till Tenerife. Aiming to do the abs there (really this time) and maybe get in a couple of swims. Hopefully climbing tomorrow as well.


     Ally Smith 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Like others - struggling with psyche due to the lack of daylight and foul weather recently, this meant the wall sessions i did manage lacked focus and to top it off, my shoulder still refuses to get fully better.

    Looking forward to Spain in a week; blue skies and orange rock should be a good tonic!

    Winter ’15/’16
    Climb 8a on other rock types – conglomerate and/or slate?
    Do 7C in Albarracin at end of Jan.
    Grit 7C – Sole Power?
    The Wire, 8A+, Parisella’s Cave
    Do some progressive headpointing; Janus & Masters Edge for starters.
    Kilnsey/Malham/Orme bolting efforts
    Toadal Recall, f8a – tidy up loose ends.

    S/MTG - New Year in Spain – STOKE IS HIGH!
    La Cara Que No Miente, 8a/+ - need to train pinches, pockets and jumping moves.
    Pat Pa Mi, 8b, Suirana.
    Anabolica, classic Suirana 8a.
    Hidrophobia, R1, 8a, (and maybe R2, 8b/+?), Montsant.
    Try: La Perla, 8b+ at Margalef.

    STG (next week)
    - Continued rehab for various achy/injured bits – TICK – repeat
    - Maintain sub 75 kg – TICK - repeat
    - 2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings – FAIL - repeat
    - Get to the cave this week – FAIL - repeat?

    Last week:
    M - Another slightly random wall session; dozen tie-ins. 2x 7c RP, bunch of stuff up to 7b. The brown Vickers “7b” still eluded me though!
    T - Physio; got a good new exercise to try and strengthen shoulder in its weakest spot. FB1. 5 sets. 16, 14, 12, 11, 9 pull-ups,then some core and shoulder rehab.
    W - Work xmas lunch #1, burnt off the excess mince-pies with another unstructured session; dozen tie-ins up to Vickers “7b” (7c/+?). Double on the other 7b was pumpy fun.
    T - Date night.
    F - Work xmas meal #2. 10hours drinking.
    S - 10hours recovering. Shoulder rehab. Star Wars.
    S - Burbage West & North. Only actually got up 2x 7A’s, but tried lots of other things up to 7C+. Shoulder giving me gipp and psychologically I won’t commit to catching any dynamic moves with left hand
     hms 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    yes the yellow 7a is deemed soft - the 6c+ up the same bit of wall was more of a struggle, and a lot scarier! The black/green I took a long time sorting the clipping as the obvious line pulled the rope across a hold I then needed to heel-hook on. New blue 7a on the corkscrew wall ~opposite the bouldering room is v good but fingery.
    OP 0.5viking 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Missed last week, so stats for 2 weeks.
    I’m off to Ettringen today for 2 days of crack climbing. Goal regarding that is to climb a handcrack clean.

    Week 456:
    Weight: 71.5
    M: rest
    T: final exam, followed by a 4 hour bouldering session, doing problems that one of the setters made for her sister. Lot’s of technical problems, but also some powermoves in the roof. Also did some laps on the handjam boulder as it was my last chance before heading home.
    W: coaching and some autobelay before and routes after, but was quickly pumped due to Tuesdays session.
    T: travel
    F: rest
    S: Drytooling comp, became 23th of 37, was happy with it, having drytooled only once before. I flashed a D7 and slid off the last hold on a D6+, due to the handle getting stuck in my belayloop, if I finished it I would have 11 more points and finishing higher in the rankings.
    S: rest

    Week 457:
    M: rest
    T: indoor climbing, onsighted two 6a’s, something I’d not managed before due to the technical routesetting at the wall in my hometown.
    W: rest
    T: climbing indoors, came past crux on a 6b+ I couldn’t do previously and I almost flashed a 6c and tried a 7a+, in which I fell due to a footslip
    F: rest/ woke up at 3.30 to pick up family from the airport, knackered rest of the day.
    S: climing indoors, indoor routes up to 5c focusing on technique. And a retroflash of a 6b in the roof
    S: climbing indoors, mostly belayed a friends kids, but also needed to show them how to climb the roof, so climbed a 6a+ there.
     hokkyokusei 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Hi, thanks for doing the post. I'm continuing to recover, the phlegm has gone, though not the cough and I'm still wheezing like an accordian. I did manage to get back on my bike for a couple of days though.

    M: 1.5 hours of plyometrics, drills, core & circuits. Last week of the series. We start again on 4th Jan. I've managed a whole year now and do feel stronger for it
    T: 5k commute each way on the bike. 7k trail run
    W: rest (and a session in the pub in the evening)
    T: 5k commute each way on the bike. 10k trail run, not esepcially quick, but I did get a new PR and beat my mate on a Strava segment he created becaise he was good at it.
    F: Works Xmas party, a marathon of booze and thai food.
    S: Hangover
    S: "The Stoop" from Penistone Park in Howarth. Not done it before. Getting on for 8km of pure mud, wearing a mandatory Santa hat. Not quick at 54:59, but don't think that's bad for my first time. Here's some pics of the crazy start: https://www.facebook.com/scott1974/media_set?set=a.10153720101216368.662566...

    My weight has started it's annual winter rise, so need to be careful over xmas!

     hms 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Thanks Viking. I had quite a productive week.

    M - Cycle commute. TCA with D1. The school comp problems had gone. The wkend comp problems were still up but seemed to go very rapidly from ridiculously easy to total & utter impossibility. Went back to the greens I hadn't done - got 3 I hadn't previously tried ticked off, plus 1 which had eluded me before.
    T - rest day
    W - cycle commute. Fingerboard. Thorough warmup, then 10sec x 3 with 10kg added weight. My weight combo is a bit limited, hence doing more repeats. Have put more weights down on my Christmas list.
    T - cycle commute. Bloc with D1. Warmup, then trying problems on comp wall. Shut down by a ridiculously hard 6b. Circuits - about 8, plus some foc.
    F - lots of walking - about 4 miles.
    S - UCR. 14 routes in pairs. Cocked up a new 6c by spectacularly misreading it - had thought the holds up the groove belonged to a different route. New 7a 2nd go - v close to the onsight but missed a splat at the top which turned a tricky clip into a v easy clip. Pleased with the volume.
    S - repeat of Wednesday's fingerboard session.

    so 3 wall sessions and 2 fingerboard sessions in the week, plus quite a bit of other assorted exercise. Happy.
     TonyB 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    > Fingerboard 2 session. Max weight double pull-ups as Ally listed last week. On my 19mm edge I could do 2 pull-ups at +18.5kg.

    This is an interesting measure and something I've never tried. I've been doing weighted pull ups on a bar to try and build a bit of arm strength, but hadn't really considered doing them on an edge. I guess it involves both finger strength and overall upperbody strength. Do you do this on a beastmaker?
     AJM 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to TonyB:

    I think ally does.

    I've got a medium (25mm) campus rung, fitted upside down so its flat (incut edges that sort of size trash my fingers so flat is better). I've then got some 6mm ply behind it to make it 19mm depth.
     mattrm 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Thanks for doing the stats.

    STG - Keep doing some climbing

    Weight - 12st 6lbs - staying the same

    M - Core
    T - Indoor routes
    W - Rest
    T - Core
    F - Core
    S - 2 mile walk
    S - 4k run

    Monthly Avg - 61%
    Yearly Avg - 61%

    Just trying to keep ticking over. Keep the average up. Busy still, visited the family. Only in work for half of the week then, I'm off for a week. Looking forward to maybe spending a day out doing some climbing, finishing off the last of the DIY.

    Just about staying above 60%, should manage to keep that going.
     TonyB 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    I've just read last weeks thread and all is clearer. I think I'll try this on my beastmaker on Wednesday. I like the idea of having something that I can measure periodically and get a quick view of finger strength.
    In reply to 0.5viking:
    Thanks Viking! Lurgy on the way out, 3 sessions is better than nothing and was very surprised to have ticked off an MTG this week so just need to be lucky in Mallorca (fly out on Boxing Day for a week) to get my final MTG for the year: 7a sport.

    M: Boulder Wirksworth WBL
    T-T: lurgy continues
    F: Token autobelay session castling 4+ and 6a+ for stamina
    S: AM Beagling - which as far as I can understand is walking around fields in the rain with people dressed for hunting, looking at dogs running around sniffing things...
    PM Lead Rock and Rapid (Devon) - hoping the grades weren't soft as onsighted 7a just squeaking me in for MTG of 3x7as onsight indoors this year!
    S: nothing much
    Post edited at 15:42
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Thanks Viking.

    Good to know mate, thanks for the tip. Training was a bit on/off this week. Had a tough BJJ nogi class on Monday which included some fast and furious grappling. Ace class but left me rather tired for the rest of the week. Need to look into better recovery. My misses is a veggie so it's easy to skip meat and eat the same as her to save cooking separate meals. Lacking in a bit of protein. Also a bit low on sleep and didn't drink anywhere near enough water on the days post-class. Must try harder.

    Current objectives // limiter(s)
    Be ready for Scottish winter trip (March) // climbing skill, strength & strength endurance, mental strength.
    Get second stripe on white belt in BJJ // consistency.
    Thinking about entering some BJJ (gi and nogi) comps next year but unsure // mental strength.

    This week's targets // targeting limiter
    See how it goes and follow my nose // burnout.

    M: BJJ nogi. Hard class. Full sparring with two blue belts and two purple belts. Got schooled. Learned loads. Bruised nose.
    T: Rest
    W: Rest
    T: Still tired from nogi, must have been hard!
    F: Nothing, being lazy now.
    S: 1hr bouldering in the cave at Awesome Walls. Felt strong and climbed well, flashing up to V3. Some woody and Moon board training.
    S: 2hr mountain bike ride. Social ride at Llandegla. Enjoyed it. Nice cake. Good times.

    Current weight: Didn't check.
     flopsicle 21 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:
    Cheers for doing the thread Viking!

    Tough week this week. But did keep going through it.

    Mon - 2 mile hilly run

    Tues - 2 mile hilly run

    Weds - 2 mile hilly run + lead and ropes night, can't really remember what I did but did fair bit of training exercises and some new routes which I didn't manage to lead. Did finish a feet + one hand on arete project that had the last 3 steps hands free as arete goes out of reach. It's a 9 degree slab so felt like hard work and I was pleased to finish it.

    Thurs - spent the day sorting my Dad out, bit of a nightmare but did still get my run in as he didn't wake till late.

    Fri - Had to work (usually my day off) due to previous day and had worked late into the night on Thurs, also had a cold. Almost didn't climb but went to NCC for the autobelays. I thought it would be nice to just 'polish' climbs I've done so that I'm really happy with each move - just time chillin' and thinking vertical!

    Sat - Still tired, did more bouldering but also spent time watching daughter on NICAS and a bit of chill on autobelays again. Did some hands free (no palming) on a 12 degree slab (Guess who got a whizzy protractor app??).

    Sun - Got a bit pushed (in a good way). Lots of leading, X 4 attempts on the overhanging headwall, 2 successful, 2 not. Scared myself silly, not due to real risk just fear of falling - took one decent fall due to being spread eagled on the steep overhang and running out of steam to sort myself out, I was high and well above my clip so it ended up the biggest fall I've had. I did go back to the head wall after.

    Sunday was hard work physically and mentally. Part of me envies people that aren't quite as wussy but then the upside is that I won't get bored as fast! I'm incredibly lucky with the people I've climbed with and I think I've had the best belayers anyone could ask for with huge encouragement to boot.
    Post edited at 23:24
     Solsbury 22 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:
    Hi and thanks, in some ways a great week, definitely felt like the right thing to take a step back-especially as Sundays TCA session, meant to be an easy one was not really much different.

    Mon-Sat-20-40 mins yoga at home each day, with additional shoulder exercises.
    +
    Tuesday-4.5 miles hilly run
    +
    One fingerboard session for tall skiny climbers who cant keep their feet on.

    Sunday-TCA-was planning to do all the two easiest circuits but ended up drifting on to the greeens-still missing three and then the new F6a-6c circuit, flashed or quickly ticked 6, felt good.

    This week, not pushing myself but aiming to get on a rope for the first time in weeks and get two sessions in, generally feeling chilled having ticked most the stuff that needed ticking at work and home.

    All good.

    Rich
     Joyce 25 Dec 2015
    In reply to 0.5viking:

    Morning Campers,

    Ta muchly Mr V, hope that the crack climbing is going well. Give us some tips when you get back.

    Training Diary WC 14/12/15
    Slopin’ Along/ Due Date!

    Monday – Nowt, felt like a rest was needed.
    Tuesday – TCA with Tom. Ticked a super slopey 6C on the Mothership in 2 goes. Worked a few Oranges (6B – 7B circuit); progress but no joy. Finished with 20 mins 1 on/ 1 off on various circuits.
    Wednesday – Tempo Run: 8.4km in 36:06 at 4:16m/km pace. GAP 4:11m/km as 110m ascent. Good to be out.
    Thursday – TCA – more working moves on 3 tricky Oranges (6C wall, 7A steep crimps and 7A dyno) then 30 mins 1 on/1 off. Working on resting at decent holds and smashing through harder sections to easier spots to recover.
    Friday – DIY
    Saturday – Bambino due date (it doesn’t appear to be cooked yet). DIY all day except for... Tempo/Progression Run with Tom (to start with): 21.1km (half marathon) in 1:35:34 at 4:33m/km pace. GAP 4:25m/km as 343m of ascent. First 5k in 26 mins, 2nd 5k in 22 mins, 3rd 5k in 22 mins and 4th 5k in 21 mins. Furthest I’ve run in a while and could be the last chance that I’ll have to get out for a long ‘un for a while too seein’ as the sproglet’ll be putting in an appearance soon.
    Sunday – DIY all day except for a session at TCA with Tom. Tom gave me the beta for an the Orange 6C wall nemesis (first go with this beta) and worked the 7A steep crimps and 7A dyno as well as a slab too. Got another two Oranges so up to 17/30. No circuits which my elbows thanked me for (hanging on that long on the steep stuff sort of ‘stretches’ them if you know what I mean).
    Short Term Goals
    Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - on it.
    Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks (and other weaknesses) – still improving but lovin’ the slopers. Finding that they’re making my shoulders feel good (working them thar control muscles) and improving my core strength too – whoop whoop!
    Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope - wet).
    Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
    Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – nope – too much DIY to do – have been doing the odd press up after clambering and they feel gooooood!
    I am intending to start a month or so of endurance training to boost climbing fitness but keep getting distracted by boulder problems – on the case – building it up.
    Cuddle my new bambino lots when it lands.
    Build a wall in my Supershed when not cuddling the aforementioned bambino!
    Weight = 69.8kg

    A fine and dandy Chrisimob to all of ya peeps!

    Love from,
    Joyce,
    XXXX

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