UKC

Have you seen this. I would like to hear about it. Thanks. Is it interesting, discerning, inspiring, pc, motivating, captivating?
Is there too much ground covered in too little time?

In reply to howifeel:

I loved it.

In reply to howifeel:

Have a look at http://eveningsends.com/climbing/valley-uprising-nostalgic/ for something a touch beyond the previous reply.

In reply to howifeel:

Well-made, entertaining, and worth watching. Much of it as historicaly accurate as Braveheart or other Hollywood fantasies, in particular the section beatifiying Dean Potter, a minor figure in Yosemite climbing unless your only perspective is ADHD TV.

Fuller review here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6004.msg463589.html#msg463589

In reply to duncan:

What an absurd and insensitive comment. Fortunately being such a minor figure I don't think anyone will take any heed of your view.

to the OP

Its one of the best climbing films I've seen, well worth purchasing.

In reply to alex_arthur:


Why exactly? Because he has died since the film was made? Not really sure that you do much to bolster your case by then insulting (admittedly in an odd way) the reviewer in your next sentence. Play the ball, not the man etc.

In reply to TobyA:

Great film. One of the best if not the best climbing movies I've seen. Enjoy.

In reply to TobyA:
Absurd - because Potter is clearly a major figure in Yosemite history.
Insensitive - of course because he has recently died.

I wasn't making a case, I was expressing my opinion. I don't understand your football analogy it seems odd.

In reply to alex_arthur:

Major figure? What major routes did he put up?

In reply to John2:

2002 Supercanaleta, Cerro Fitz Roy, Patagonia. First solo of route.[23]
2003 Concepcion 5.13+ (67m), Day Canyon, Moab, Utah. First ascent.[24]
2006 Heaven (5.12d/13a) Glacier Point, Yosemite Valley. First solo ascent.[25]
2006 Southern Belle (V 5.12d R/X), Half Dome, Yosemite Valley. Second ascent with Leo Houlding.[26]
2008 Deep Blue Sea (5.12+), Eiger, Bernese Alps, Switzerland. First FreeBASE ascent of the Eiger.[27]
2010 The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite. Fastest ascent (2:36:45)[

Plus Easy Rider/Free Rider and fastest time on Reticent Wall in 2006.

Looks good to me.

In reply to howifeel:

I really liked it. I generally struggle with a lot of American climbing films because of the 'taking it to a another level', 'problem for the next generation', 'nowhere you'd rather be at that moment in time', 'one slip and you were dead' type throw-away phrases but this film I really enjoyed. The style of production is quirky and fun. The 'it's where it all began' line I thought was a little contentious, although I know are referring to America without actually saying so.

In reply to John2 and Co1in H


So none then?

In reply to alex_arthur:


Well, in 1984 Duncan did climb the NIAD, in fact he climbed it in 9:30, the record at the time, before records were really created and is thought that it wasn't beaten till 1990. He's also far more a part of the "scene" than I am so I'd say, for me it's worth considering his point of view?

Have you done much in Yosemite?

In reply to alex_arthur:

I read Duncan's slightly longer comments on UKB and he states quite clearly who doesn't get mentioned in the film despite their major contributions to Yosemite history, and why in the larger scheme of things Potter's contributions were only part, arguably a small part, of that history.

Your comment about Duncan being a "minor figure" and therefore his views not worth listening to, was what I took exception to. As far as I can see he hasn't claimed to be any sort of figure, major or minor, he just gave his opinion and if you click on the link he backs it up with reasoned argument. If you don't like the football analogy, have a playground one instead - insulting people you disagree with like that comes over as childish.

I can see why after Potter's recent death arguably it would be nice to not speak ill of dead, but it was interesting how his obits did not shy away from his more controversial decisions or his at times prickly character. But, besides, the film was made (and Duncan reviewed it) before his death.

In reply to Co1in H:

We're talking about in Yosemite. You list a first solo ascent, a second ascent and a since superseded fastest ascent of the Nose. Not a single first ascent.

In reply to TobyA:

Duncan was actually one of the first UK climbers to climb some of the major Yosemite routes. If you look at Wikipedia, in 1984 he made the then fastest ascent of the Nose.

In reply to howifeel:

Probably the best climbing film I've seen, and I've seen quite a few.

In reply to howifeel:

Regardless of what Dean Potter actually climbed, to a lot of people Dean was super inspirational so easily deserves a place in Yosemite history, as I'm sure many others do who weren't featured in the video.

I thought it was great, a proper psych fest!

In reply to howifeel:

Here's an interesting review: http://www.mountainsandwater.com/2015/01/valley-uprising-review.html

It's a little negative, and tries to give some balance where it feels Valley Uprising was lacking it, so worth watching the film first - it's very entertaining.

In reply to howifeel:

Be warned.. if you watch this film you will want to go and climb. Straight after. Even if it's midnight. And your drunk. With a broken leg. And you're not even really a climber.. it will make you want to climb.

And for what it's worth.. I couldn't care less if Dean didn't put any new routes up.. the dude is a legend in my eyes. He's one of the reasons I decided to book my aff skydive licence for next year

In reply to howifeel:

I remember enjoying it but thinking there wasn't a lot of footage of climbing in it, I guess because it's mainly telling the story of the history of Yosemite climbing and there's limited footage available.

In reply to alex_arthur:

Others have beat me to it but....
Duncan took the Nose record off Bridwell, Long & Bachar.
Maybe you should show people respect before spouting off on internet forums

http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm

In reply to John2:
Thanks John, I'm aware of Duncan as being one of the uber-dark horses of British climbing BUT he made no claim to that at all in reviewing the film he just pointed out what wasn't in it. That's why I thought Alex's reply seemed particularly unfair.

But anyway, this is becoming a bit of pile-on with regards to Alex's original comment now, I'm sure he has got the point by this point that Duncan made his comments from a position of know quite a lot about Yosemite climbing, so I at least will leave it at that.

BTW I remember reading an inspiring article of Andy Hyslop about how to climb the Nose in a day in one of the first OTEs I bought - maybe 92ish? I wonder how many other Brits had done it between Duncan's ascent and Andy's?

In reply to TobyA:

To be honest, Duncan's place in the history of Yosemite climbing is pretty much up there with Dean Potter's.

The real question is where are people like the Huber brothers, with a string of first ascents and speed records.

In reply to John2:

Eric Kohl!

In reply to jezb1:


I've not seen the film but would agree with your sentiment. There was a really good tribute to DP in Rock & Ice a few months ago, worth seeking out and reading.

In reply to alex_arthur:

Anyone remotely interested in Yosemite climbing should see the film, but it is a myth, not a history, and the prominence it gave to Potter is a big part of that myth-making.

Of course Potter is a minor figure in Yosemite climbing. He didn’t invent granite big-wall climbing like John Salathe, Ax Nelson and Allen Steck. He didn’t take aid climbing out of the cracks and corners and onto the blank wall A5 horror-shows like Charlie Porter. He didn’t raise free-climbing and bouldering standards like Chuck Pratt, Frank Sacherer, Ron Kauk or Ray Jardine. He didn’t free big walls like Jim Ericson, Max Jones, Mark Hudon, Todd Skinner, Paul Piana, Alex Huber, or Lynn Hill. He wasn’t the first to free-solo walls like Peter Croft. He didn’t raise free climbing standards again like Beth Rodden or Tommy Caldwell. He didn’t keep breaking The Nose speed record for two decades like Hans Florine. All these achievements are far greater than Potter’s Yosemite climbs yet none of their authors are given more than a cursory mention in Valley Uprising. Mostly they don’t fit the climber-as-rebel archetype the film portrays. Dean Potter fulfilled the need for this kind of figure in the era of climbing as a mainstream consumerist activity. It’s a profound need for some and he satisfied it very well, as some responses here illustrate. That doesn’t make him significant in the history of Yosemite climbing. Andrew Bisharat and Ed Hartouni (on supertopo) also touch on this in their reviews, both well worth reading.

Myths can be useful and have always been popular, a modern myth is doing quite well in the cinemas right now, but it’s good to be able to differentiate between myth and history. I’ll leave my final word to the wise Lynn Hill who says in the film (before Potter’s death): “If you start believing your own myth, that can mess you up.”

In reply to duncan:

I'm sorry you feel the film under represented the individuals you've described above. I'd certainly been keen to see another film documenting their achievements.

However I'm surprised you have chosen to highlight the achievement of others at the same time as belittling Potters.

He is already a major part of Yosemite history, the countless films, TV segments and magazine articles he has featured in assure this. I don't care how much you feel this is deserved. Clearly we differ on this.

In reply to ashtond6:
A fantastic achievement but irrelevant to my opinion of his comment.

In reply to duncan:

The problem with myth and history is that they soon become so tangled as to be inseparable. I've no beef with the main thrust of your argument - especially AS I HAVEN'T SEEN the film - but would counter that by drawing up a list of the most significant ascents you are equally likely to end up with an incomplete picture. Ascents do not usually spring out of nowhere; they are typically spawned and informed by a wider scene. In many ways I find that dynamic to be the most interesting part of the story - not so much how they did the climb as how they got to start up it. I hope the focus on Dean tells a fuller story from that perspective.

For the last twenty years Dean has been the prime figure of the inner Yosemite scene - 'the Monkeys' as they call themselves - very much as Bridwell was with the Stonemasters. Dean might not have done the hardest route on paper but his position in that scene was absolutely based on climbing prowess. He did push soloing beyond even Croft's limits and (as with Bachar and now Honnold) that sort of competence is historically accorded more respect within the valley scene than elsewhere. And his projects that didn't come off (like the triple in a day) were pointers to the next generation. Like you I suspect BASE was a tangent that history will have mixed opinions on, but again his influence was huge.

I'm sure Honnold's 'no big deal' approach is in part a reaction to Dean's spiritual approach, and the scene has obviously now moved on. But if I was a film-maker I know which would make the more entertaining tv, especially to an American audience.

In reply to alex_arthur:


I think the general point is that his contribution is less than his media profile might suggest and there are others who, due to their persona not fitting with the forced narrative of the film, played significantly larger roles in the history of climbing in Yosemite. That's not doing down his achievements, it's putting them in context.

That said, I've not seen the film but am keen to.

In reply to galpinos:

Someone else has probably already pointed this out, but you can download or stream the film here http://senderfilms.com/productions/details/809/Valley-Uprising . It's well worth a watch and contains fabulous archive footage - no one is denying that.

In reply to alex_arthur:


Current media profile is not (especially in this this era) necessarily proportionate to historical significance (unless media profile is seen as a sort of self-fulfilling end in itself). Just commenting, not taking sides (not qualified to do so!). Interesting dioscussion.

In reply to howifeel: I guess everyone knows the film has been on Discovery a few times and that's where they saw it.

It's pretty good and absolutely worth watching tho' I am surprised anyone thinks it's the best climbing film they've ever seem , I preferred the parts about the early days and the Stonemasters to that on more recent history.

In reply to duncan:

You are an a*****e. Purely because of the ADHD comment. Arguing whether Potter was a major figure in the Yos scene is beside the point. Mocking someone for for a mental disorder really is low. I suppose you'll have Andy Kirkpatrick in your sights next? Honestly..

In reply to jsmcfarland:


He didn't mock anyone for anything. He simply used ADHD as a metaphor for a style of TV. By all means criticise that if you object to it, but don't make stuff up.

In reply to jsmcfarland:

Wow, talk about reading something that's not there.....

In reply to alex_arthur:

your comment? Suggesting Duncan could not discuss Dean Potter because he had no achievements in Yosemite? Sounds relevant

Don't think Duncan is dumbing down Deans achievements, more just saying Croft, Hubers etc had bigger achievements which are not covered

In reply to John2:


Well that's a bit of a non-sequitur. As others have pointed out, Potter may not have made the most significant ascents but that doesn't make him a minor figure in Yosemite history, any more than Stephen Hawking is a minor figure in late 20th century Physics.

I'm sure many would prefer that media profile correlated more closely with significant climbing firsts, however that is not the way the world works. People are far more interested in good stories than they are in an accurate history ( take a look at "The Imitation Game" for an exercise in modern myth making ).

In reply to planetmarshall:

1) If other people hadn't put up Yosemite routes that he climbed subsequently he wouldn't have had a Yosemite career.

2) What the hell is the equivalent in physics of a first ascent in climbing?

In reply to John2:


Well you can't possibly know that. We're not talking about some talentless also-ran here - I don't think anyone disputes Potter's ability. I'm not disputing that others made more significant ascents, but that doesn't necessarily make them major figures. Charisma and media profile play a part, like it or not.


It was an analogy, so I'm not going to stretch it out. But you don't have to look far to find people who resent Hawking's media profile because others made more significant contributions but lack the public recognition.

In reply to howifeel:

Surprised there's been no review on here yet.

Although the history of the Valley climbing wasn't something I was especially interested in I nevertheless thought this was a really great film. It's very well put together and weaves together the different periods in the Valley's evolution. Whilst it certainly covered the big ascents what I liked most was that it also covered the anarchic spirit of climbers. Climbing is about much more than just climbing. It's about a certain way of looking at life or even living life. This aspect comes across really well in the film. One of the climbers covered was in their purely because of his ability to hide from, and outwit the Park rangers: an interesting and amusing story but also one that captures the essence of what it is to be a climber: individualistic, anti authoritarian, playful, refusing to be intimidated, anarchic. This aspect is echoed throughout the film so it's much, much more than just a history lesson.

All in all a top film and can't think of a climbing doc I'd recommend more, regardless of one's interest in Yosemite.

In reply to howifeel:

I have seen part of the film (the section on the competition between Harding and Robbins). I would say it very much concentrates on people rather than the climbing itself. I found it interesting and mildly entertaining but don't think the style of film would withstand multiple viewings. I could be wrong but it seemed overly simplistic in its approach, zeroing in on the relationship between the two in a very black and white manner.

In reply to ashtond6:
I didn't suggest anything of the sort. I described him as a 'minor figure' albeit in a petulant way as he had just described Potter as the same.

In reply to duncan:

If you view the film as a definitive history of Yosemite I think your comments about Potter may be valid. However to me, while the film obviously covers the history of Yosemite, this was secondary to its portrayal of the character of climbers. Potter was pushing things in a completely new direction with his soloing with paragliders and slacklining feats. He was a renegade doing things his own way. That's his significance and that individualism fitted right in with others covered in the film, all the way back to Harding and Robbins.

If the film makers were only interested in the climbing history they wouldn't have included the story about that guy who evaded the park rangers for years, or the story about the crashed plane loaded with cannabis. Neither of these stories are about raising climbing standards or the history of development.

I saw it more as a portrayal of the climbing character and the history of Yosemite was a framework on which to illustrate that. Seen like that I think the inclusion of Potter makes perfect sense. I think the word 'Uprising' in the title points towards this intent. I don't think it is or was ever intended to be, a straightforward history of Yosemite climbing doc. And that's exactly why I really liked it.

In reply to John2:


Einstein's General General Theory of Relativity might be the equivalent to, say, Warren Harding's first ascent or Lynn Hill's first free ascent of The Nose; groundbreaking achievements that have withstood the test of time. Speed ascents are like relatively minor related work such as Hawking Radiation. A Grand Unified Theory of Quantum Gravity would be the equivalent of an onsight free solo.

In reply to howifeel:

Is there anything about Dave Turner in there, or Charlie Porter? Love reading about the exploits of those nutters, though I know they're decades apart.

In reply to Robert Durran:

A grand unified theory of quantum gravity would be like an onsight free solo of la dura dura

In reply to Liamhutch89:


And then down climbing it

In reply to Liamhutch89:


But string theory would be like Cesen's ascent of the the south face of Lhotse.

In reply to stp:

Wow, thanks guys and girls, so much to read. I do enjoy myth and drive and obviously as we all do the desire to feel for the ascents and top climbers.

It probably is easier to follow one party on a big wall as it is so emotional and this seems lost here but that would be unavoidable, so big is the wall and story to tell. I gather perhaps it has partially happened after all as long as said party is Dean Potter.
It is amazing how the right to climb as a recreation instead of escape has been won, to relax, enjoy and suffer the pain as the rewards are so valuable and real to us. I look forward to these cultural insights.

In reply to Robert Durran:


<feeling-proud>
I did one if these on Sunday! I await my invitation to next year's Nobel prize for physics ceremony with bated breath, and I'm already planning on what to do with the 10 million SEK.
</feeling-proud>

In reply to Robert Durran:

OK I think I've got it. And Dean Potter jumping off something in his wing suit is double physics with Mr Hughes.