UKC

After a set of nuts for rock and winter for climbing up to HVS/V
Any recommendations or is anyone selling a set?

Many thanks!

In reply to Jonny S:

Dmm wallnuts and offsets are a great way to get started. Wild country likewise have a good set of standard nuts + offsets, plus you get to buy British : )

In reply to Jonny S:

I think DMM Wallnuts are the best for most normal placements and Wild Country Offset Superlights and Superlights for a second set.

In reply to Jonny S:

Which budget? Full set of classic rocks are £50 Metolius Ultralights are double that.

But generally agree with previous statements, Get a full set of either wallnuts or anodised rocks, and then add to that with a half set of the other one. Or the quirky ones, DMM peenuts, WC superlight offsets or DMM alloy offsets.

Thanks folks, Wallnuts then.
Budget around £100 for a full set mate.

In reply to Jonny S:

Those 50 quid classic rock sets are great. Only down side is the lack of color coding but its not a big deal really as your mostly trying to compare the size of the placement to the size of the gear.

If I had the choice of one colored set or two non-coloured if go with the 2 as it gives you're going to end up losing some along the way and you 'll have enough to do some multi pitch when you're ready.

Having said that you'll always be jealous of the pretty colours....

In reply to Jonny S:

My favourite are cashews.

In reply to /tmp:
I'm not a big fan of the classic rocks, the lack of taper / offset on the wider placement is limiting and if you loose a nut you can't get singles of the classic rocks any more. I certainly wouldn't get two sets of these nuts either a choice that would be regretted in the long run IMO ( as climbing partner of mine has exactly that and not only do I think he now regrets that to some extent but I find climbing on his rack a pain and pretty limiting as well as noticing the lack of colour coding when you want to make a fast placement)

In reply to Jonny S:
The way I see it wallnuts are the best single set of nuts out there. However if you are getting two sets (which most people want in the long run) I do think that one set of DMM offsets is the way to go they are the best nuts in flaring placements where other nuts often just don't work very well. Sideways wallnuts can work ok in these placements but overall they aren't as good and in thinner flaring cracks they are poor. Given that rocks better complement offsets than wallnuts do as they are more of a different shape I'd personally go for a second set of rocks in this case (offsets do have quite a lot of similarity to wallnuts they both have a groove in the middle and are quite wide nuts) .

So in summary if you think you'll only ever want one set of nuts (think winter climbing only, or easy routes like VDiff, or I guess short not that hard routes) then wallnuts are best, otherwise get offsets and the new rocks - I'd start with the new rocks in this case.

In reply to ModerateMatt:

Personally I have superlights and I just don't believe the minor weight saving is worth it for a bit of kit you use for a typical days trad climbing. Its a pretty minimal weight saving but quite a large decrease in strength of the kit.

In reply to Jonny S:

V12 outdoor doing the Wallnut set plus the offsets for under a ton.
This is the best value for what you're after. Combo (Nut set 1)

In reply to Dell:

Or you could get 1-10 anodised rocks from outside for 69 quid with a free crab and the alloy offsets from v12 for 39 quid works out a little more but the nuts are better balanced for a wider range of placements IMO.

In reply to Jonny S:
BTW don't bother with nuts above size 11 IMO. the torque nuts are better and lighter for this size range.

Appreciate all the replies, very helpful.
I've just gone for the Starter Nut Set which includes the Wallnuts, offsets and Torque nuts. £135 delivered from V12, bargain!

Have a good one everybody....

In reply to CurlyStevo:


Never had a problem replacing lost or damaged individual rocks, from the first search I did I found;
http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/Anodised+Rock

In reply to jim jones:


I said the CLASSIC rocks Jim not the anodised ones, they are a different shape.

In reply to Jonny S:

Still a good combo and one I've used in the past, I personally think the rocks work slightly better with the offsets but hey.... Enjoy!

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Dunno what I've been using for thirty odd years but mine are all the same profile.

http://www.rockrun.com/wild-country-classic-rock-set?gclid=Cj0KEQiAqemzBRDh...

In reply to jim jones:

Just realised you're referring to the slight taper on Anodised rocks, sorry my mistake!