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Northumberland bouldering conditions

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 timjamesmedley 30 Dec 2015
I'm going to be based in Alnwick between the 9th and 19th of January and am hoping to get out bouldering. I've been to kyloe in the woods before and loved it. Is it climbable or a bit soggy at this time of year? If not any suggestions for dry spots in the area? Obviously I'm presuming that half the Atlantic isn't going to be dropped on us again over the next week!!!
 JDal 31 Dec 2015
In reply to timjamesmedley:

If the weather's been iffy Goatscrag is always worth a look, S facing, a nice airy position on the hillside and good hard sandstone . You should be leaving the Bowdens/Kyloes for a couple of days after a wet spell in winter - they are getting badly trashed.
 The Ivanator 31 Dec 2015
In reply to timjamesmedley:

I believe most highballs have become DWS routes.
In reply to JDal:

Ah, hadn't thought about that, thanks for the heads up!
 SteveSBlake 31 Dec 2015
In reply to timjamesmedley:

In general it's not a good idea to climb on sandstone for a couple of days after a soaking and anything with small flakey crimps should be avoided, along with soft slopers and anything where the patina is broken and 'scooping' is visible. It's tough advice to follow, but if there's any doubt about the condition you should walk away

But, that said there are a number of options that dry quicker than others.

John mentioned Goat Crag. The right hand section around Breath Alert tends to stay dry, and gets what sun and breeze is going with loads of variations.

All of Shitlington is South Facing, and sections stay dry. By the time you are here the bouldering guide will have been uploaded to ISSUU.

The quarry wall area at Kyloe Out is quick drying and pretty durable. The traverse and it's variations beneath the overhanging buttress usually stays dry (However, the roof problems above are a good example of what not to try if there's even a sniff of damp.) The rest of Kyloe Out tends to stay damp a while after rain.

The right hand side of Bowden, the Red Wall area, catches both sun and any breeze going, and the nature of the holds is such they are more robust, the Bat Cave area at Back Bowden catches winter sun and has a good range of roof problems.

Another South facing option that dries quickish is Titlington, the low traverse on the main wall is both hard and good.

Parts of Berryhill are sun traps, particularly the Furrow Wall.

Steve
In reply to SteveSBlake:

Thanks Steve, awesome advice!

Shitlington?
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 02 Jan 2016
In reply to timjamesmedley:
There is also a useful climbing wall in Alnwick. Thirty minutes south you will find The excellent Climb Newcastle. The beaches are fantastic in any weather.

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