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New Year and thinking of some aims for the year. Looking for a few less frequented routes in The Lakes, Wales and the Peak to look forward to over the next few months. Examples of the kind of routes I'm thinking of but have done would be Red Dwarf on Nab Crag,, Red Groove on Pavey, Pyrderi at Tremadoc and Hydro on Craig Y Don. Any suggestions of ones you've enjoyed?
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In reply to tmawer:
Wilfa Corner (HVS 5a)
Only gets HVS in the guide, but E1 is fairer. One of the best short sea cliff routes I've done.
Wilfa Corner (HVS 5a)
Only gets HVS in the guide, but E1 is fairer. One of the best short sea cliff routes I've done.
In reply to tmawer:
Devils Nordwand in Ogwen: http://www.jbmountainskills.co.uk/news/route-of-the-week-number-9
Devils Nordwand in Ogwen: http://www.jbmountainskills.co.uk/news/route-of-the-week-number-9
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In reply to tmawer:
Death Wish (E1 5b) - Reasonably safe, my first E1 in Northumberland so relatively low in the grade I think. While you're there I'd suggest trying Ridsdale Wall (E1 5b), I got a bit lost and fell off, gear's good.
M.I.L. Arete (E1 5b) - Bold but I loved it, the lack of gear probably didn't bother me too much because my belayer was very hungover when I led it so probably wouldn't have caught a big whipper! From what I remember the moves aren't too hard for 5b, just next to very doubtful gear a long way from anything decent. Once you've done this you may as well do Razorback (HVS 5a) which is technically harder but has good gear where it matters.
Both pretty decent routes from what I remember.
If you want a good route in an esoteric area try Bloody Crack (E1 5b), plenty of other stuff to keep an E1 leader occupied around that area too. The reputation the area has for looseness is unfounded.
Death Wish (E1 5b) - Reasonably safe, my first E1 in Northumberland so relatively low in the grade I think. While you're there I'd suggest trying Ridsdale Wall (E1 5b), I got a bit lost and fell off, gear's good.
M.I.L. Arete (E1 5b) - Bold but I loved it, the lack of gear probably didn't bother me too much because my belayer was very hungover when I led it so probably wouldn't have caught a big whipper! From what I remember the moves aren't too hard for 5b, just next to very doubtful gear a long way from anything decent. Once you've done this you may as well do Razorback (HVS 5a) which is technically harder but has good gear where it matters.
Both pretty decent routes from what I remember.
If you want a good route in an esoteric area try Bloody Crack (E1 5b), plenty of other stuff to keep an E1 leader occupied around that area too. The reputation the area has for looseness is unfounded.
In reply to tmawer:
If you're looking for 'less frequented' Peak grit, it could be time for a visit to Agden Rocher. There's a clutch of quality E1's there, I'll stick my neck out a bit and say Pollux (E1 5b) is the best of the bunch.
When you're done for the day, have a cheeky pint in the Nag's Head - you won't find a pub as good as that in Hathersage!
If you're looking for 'less frequented' Peak grit, it could be time for a visit to Agden Rocher. There's a clutch of quality E1's there, I'll stick my neck out a bit and say Pollux (E1 5b) is the best of the bunch.
When you're done for the day, have a cheeky pint in the Nag's Head - you won't find a pub as good as that in Hathersage!
1
In reply to tmawer:
A shout out for Ocean Wall at Standing Stones, and Ricohet Wall (soft) at Shooter's Nab for Peak grit E1 of the highest quality.
A shout out for Ocean Wall at Standing Stones, and Ricohet Wall (soft) at Shooter's Nab for Peak grit E1 of the highest quality.
Post edited at 20:09
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In reply to spenser:
Done the Northumberland ones......like the look of Bloody Crack as haven't climbed there, Cheers.
Done the Northumberland ones......like the look of Bloody Crack as haven't climbed there, Cheers.
In reply to tmawer:
My favourite from the Lakes is probably Banzai Pipeline (E1 5b). It's one of the best routes I've done in the Lakes and deserves more traffic than it gets.
My favourite from the Lakes is probably Banzai Pipeline (E1 5b). It's one of the best routes I've done in the Lakes and deserves more traffic than it gets.
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In reply to tmawer:
You might find the odd one or two on a cliff known as Cloggy, before it went virtually extinct. And then there is always a quite interesting E 1, the Girdle. of Lower Amphi Buttres at Craig yr Ysfa.but the big cliffs of N Wales do involve a bit of walking. (-:
Ps but then looking at your profile you probably do remember these cliffs of yesteryear
You might find the odd one or two on a cliff known as Cloggy, before it went virtually extinct. And then there is always a quite interesting E 1, the Girdle. of Lower Amphi Buttres at Craig yr Ysfa.but the big cliffs of N Wales do involve a bit of walking. (-:
Ps but then looking at your profile you probably do remember these cliffs of yesteryear
Post edited at 20:55
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In reply to tmawer:
Really fantastic Gogarth E1: North West Passage (E1 5b) - but maybe not less frequented. The Wild Rover (E1 5b) is a bit bold, but fantastic wall climbing on good little holds.
Down in Pembroke, these are classics, but perhaps a bit overlooked compared to stuff like The Arrow etc:
Sealhunt (E1 5b) - really great, must do!
Ultravixens (E1 5b)
Wishful Thinking (E1 5b) - better than Rock Idol! (but short)
In the Peak, there are hundred of little E1s that are great. I like stuff like The Irrepressible Urge (E1 5b) and Mitch Pitch (E1 5c) but these aren't everyone's cup of tea being short with no gear. Hen Cloud is a good place to head for E1s, such as Solid Geometry (E1 5b) , Chicken (E1 5b) and Bulwark (E1 5b). Much more easy going than the HVSs!
On the lime, Staden Quarry has good E1s. The Chee Tor classic E1s are excellent too, but when you stray off the 'beaten' (it isn't these days) track, things get quite vegetated and filthy. Still good though! Beeston Tor is great for the E1 climber too.
Really fantastic Gogarth E1: North West Passage (E1 5b) - but maybe not less frequented. The Wild Rover (E1 5b) is a bit bold, but fantastic wall climbing on good little holds.
Down in Pembroke, these are classics, but perhaps a bit overlooked compared to stuff like The Arrow etc:
Sealhunt (E1 5b) - really great, must do!
Ultravixens (E1 5b)
Wishful Thinking (E1 5b) - better than Rock Idol! (but short)
In the Peak, there are hundred of little E1s that are great. I like stuff like The Irrepressible Urge (E1 5b) and Mitch Pitch (E1 5c) but these aren't everyone's cup of tea being short with no gear. Hen Cloud is a good place to head for E1s, such as Solid Geometry (E1 5b) , Chicken (E1 5b) and Bulwark (E1 5b). Much more easy going than the HVSs!
On the lime, Staden Quarry has good E1s. The Chee Tor classic E1s are excellent too, but when you stray off the 'beaten' (it isn't these days) track, things get quite vegetated and filthy. Still good though! Beeston Tor is great for the E1 climber too.
In reply to climbingpixie:
Really want to do this route!
> My favourite from the Lakes is probably Banzai Pipeline (E1 5b).
Really want to do this route!
In reply to tmawer:
The Minstrel at Maeshafn in Clwyd is a cracker of an E1 and you'd be very unlucky to find anyone else on it if you went.
The Minstrel (E1 5b)
The Minstrel at Maeshafn in Clwyd is a cracker of an E1 and you'd be very unlucky to find anyone else on it if you went.
The Minstrel (E1 5b)
In reply to jcw:
Certainly a few here for me to do as haven't done very much at all on Cloggy. Thanks
Certainly a few here for me to do as haven't done very much at all on Cloggy. Thanks
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In reply to tmawer:
The Amphitheatre Girdle on Craig yr Ysfa has been mentioned above. Great route, and definitely recommended, but it's more like E2 than E1. The must-do E1 on that crag is Agrippa***: 100 metres of great climbing, not too hard technically, but a little run out at times. Wait for a warm, dry spell, make an early start, and you'll have a great day, especially if you link it with a climb on the upper wall.
For another good E1, try Funny Bone on Carreg Mianog. Short, steep, enigmatic, and a whopping sandbag at its former grade. Also cleaner than it used to be; maybe the crag cleaning fairies have been there?
The Amphitheatre Girdle on Craig yr Ysfa has been mentioned above. Great route, and definitely recommended, but it's more like E2 than E1. The must-do E1 on that crag is Agrippa***: 100 metres of great climbing, not too hard technically, but a little run out at times. Wait for a warm, dry spell, make an early start, and you'll have a great day, especially if you link it with a climb on the upper wall.
For another good E1, try Funny Bone on Carreg Mianog. Short, steep, enigmatic, and a whopping sandbag at its former grade. Also cleaner than it used to be; maybe the crag cleaning fairies have been there?
In reply to tmawer:
I know, I *know*, that you asked for the Lakes, Peak and Wales.
BUT
the sea cliffs of Pembroke, Devon and Cornwall are the spiritual home of the E1 grade.
Make a pilgrimage. You will want to send a postcard thanking me.
I know, I *know*, that you asked for the Lakes, Peak and Wales.
BUT
the sea cliffs of Pembroke, Devon and Cornwall are the spiritual home of the E1 grade.
Make a pilgrimage. You will want to send a postcard thanking me.
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In reply to mike bailey:
Agree that Funny Bone is a very good route on a fine crag. Climbed it in October. Think I may be your cleaning fairy as I spent some time getting all the grass off the ledge you mantel onto on the exposed P2. But do you really think it justifies E1? Wouldn't argue with HVS but didn't think there was anything technically harder than 5a and found gear OK throughout. Anyway, great positions on both main pitches, and South facing crags in Ogwen are rarities to be cherished!
Agree that Funny Bone is a very good route on a fine crag. Climbed it in October. Think I may be your cleaning fairy as I spent some time getting all the grass off the ledge you mantel onto on the exposed P2. But do you really think it justifies E1? Wouldn't argue with HVS but didn't think there was anything technically harder than 5a and found gear OK throughout. Anyway, great positions on both main pitches, and South facing crags in Ogwen are rarities to be cherished!
Post edited at 17:31
In reply to tmawer:
I've done a couple of memorable E1s (according to the guidebooks I had at the time) over the last couple of years that I think fit your bill, although they appear as E2s in the UKC database and probably justify it. Well worth checking out: Who's Who (E2 5b) on the Lleyn and The Kite Flyer (E2 5c) on Lech Drws Y Coed - a roadside slab of Welsh micro granite! And if you're ever at the far RH end of Tremadog please give Silver Shadow (E2 5c) a go, since I spent some long hours cleaning it in the autumn and would hate to see it fade back into leafy obscurity!
I've done a couple of memorable E1s (according to the guidebooks I had at the time) over the last couple of years that I think fit your bill, although they appear as E2s in the UKC database and probably justify it. Well worth checking out: Who's Who (E2 5b) on the Lleyn and The Kite Flyer (E2 5c) on Lech Drws Y Coed - a roadside slab of Welsh micro granite! And if you're ever at the far RH end of Tremadog please give Silver Shadow (E2 5c) a go, since I spent some long hours cleaning it in the autumn and would hate to see it fade back into leafy obscurity!
In reply to deepsoup:
Good choice,We visited Agden rocher when the tour de Yorkshire was passing through bradfield,in fact we camped on the field just above the crag,it's better than you think it's gonna be,reminds me of rivelin,think it must be the closeness of the trees.never much traffic on it,so some of the routes are a bit dirty,but enjoyable .
Good choice,We visited Agden rocher when the tour de Yorkshire was passing through bradfield,in fact we camped on the field just above the crag,it's better than you think it's gonna be,reminds me of rivelin,think it must be the closeness of the trees.never much traffic on it,so some of the routes are a bit dirty,but enjoyable .
In reply to tmawer:
Here's a few in the northern Lake District I've enjoyed that get overlooked:
Walk Under Ladders - Sandbed Ghyll Crag, St Johns in the Vale
Mark Of Zorro, Zorro Buttress, Buttermere (Banderas is also good, but not as good as M.O.Z)
Flake Out, Moss Crag, Buttermere
Brahma, Grey Crag, Buttermere
Here's a few in the northern Lake District I've enjoyed that get overlooked:
Walk Under Ladders - Sandbed Ghyll Crag, St Johns in the Vale
Mark Of Zorro, Zorro Buttress, Buttermere (Banderas is also good, but not as good as M.O.Z)
Flake Out, Moss Crag, Buttermere
Brahma, Grey Crag, Buttermere
In reply to Dave Cumberland:
gave this a clean last year and agree, a good route
others I have enjoyed and are off the beaten track are:
City of Love and Ashes (E1 5a) a little bold but similar to the sergeant crag slab routes on great rock
Innominate/Sepulchre Combination (E2 5b) well protected and technical
Scrubs up nicely (E2 5b) E1 really as gear is good, lovely gabbro too
Encroacher (E1 5b) a direct version of Cleopatra and great climbing if a bit spooky
Venus (E1 5b) needs a dry spell but very good
Strider (E1 5b) overlooked but clean enough to be worthwhile
Brahma (E1 5b) a great well protected pitch
Bathsheba (E1 5c) technical well protected climbing that looks dirty but holds are clean
> Frankie goes to Kendal was superb but probably needs resurrected?
> DC
gave this a clean last year and agree, a good route
others I have enjoyed and are off the beaten track are:
City of Love and Ashes (E1 5a) a little bold but similar to the sergeant crag slab routes on great rock
Innominate/Sepulchre Combination (E2 5b) well protected and technical
Scrubs up nicely (E2 5b) E1 really as gear is good, lovely gabbro too
Encroacher (E1 5b) a direct version of Cleopatra and great climbing if a bit spooky
Venus (E1 5b) needs a dry spell but very good
Strider (E1 5b) overlooked but clean enough to be worthwhile
Brahma (E1 5b) a great well protected pitch
Bathsheba (E1 5c) technical well protected climbing that looks dirty but holds are clean
In reply to spenser:
Have to disagree here, MIL arete is utter crap. It's not bold either, unless you consider climbing a ladder bold... There's gear by the crux, which is one or two moves off a ledge. Not worth the star it gets in the guide IMO.
> M.I.L. Arete (E1 5b) - Bold but I loved it, the lack of gear probably didn't bother me too much because my belayer was very hungover when I led it so probably wouldn't have caught a big whipper! From what I remember the moves aren't too hard for 5b, just next to very doubtful gear a long way from anything decent. Once you've done this you may as well do Razorback (HVS 5a) which is technically harder but has good gear where it matters.
> Both pretty decent routes from what I remember.
Have to disagree here, MIL arete is utter crap. It's not bold either, unless you consider climbing a ladder bold... There's gear by the crux, which is one or two moves off a ledge. Not worth the star it gets in the guide IMO.
In reply to Andy Clarke:
Good to hear that Funny Bone is getting some attention; a very good route on an under rated crag. When we looked at it about 3 years ago the crux mantel on P1 was pretty much unclimbable - covered in black cornflake lichen, and had probably not been climbed for years. The Paul Williams guide, whilst not giving a detailed description, noted that it was 'usually dirty.' Weeks later it was as clean as a whistle. Perhaps some public spirited person took on the job as a 'Big Society' project. . Whoever it was, they did us all a favour, and the route is now well worth a look. Regarding the grade, I thought the first mantel was initially quite bold and tenuous: it's only when you are already committed that you realise you can get a good nut in, and then only if you can place it from a precarious position. I thought E1 5b was reasonable for the moves, but maybe a taller or stronger leader would think differently. My line of thought would be 'better a soft touch than a sandbag.'
Good to hear that Funny Bone is getting some attention; a very good route on an under rated crag. When we looked at it about 3 years ago the crux mantel on P1 was pretty much unclimbable - covered in black cornflake lichen, and had probably not been climbed for years. The Paul Williams guide, whilst not giving a detailed description, noted that it was 'usually dirty.' Weeks later it was as clean as a whistle. Perhaps some public spirited person took on the job as a 'Big Society' project. . Whoever it was, they did us all a favour, and the route is now well worth a look. Regarding the grade, I thought the first mantel was initially quite bold and tenuous: it's only when you are already committed that you realise you can get a good nut in, and then only if you can place it from a precarious position. I thought E1 5b was reasonable for the moves, but maybe a taller or stronger leader would think differently. My line of thought would be 'better a soft touch than a sandbag.'
In reply to tmawer:
I think Hot Tin Roof at Bosley Cloud fits the bill. Still not that well-known and a really satisfying pitch.
Hot Tin Roof (E1 5a)
I think Hot Tin Roof at Bosley Cloud fits the bill. Still not that well-known and a really satisfying pitch.
Hot Tin Roof (E1 5a)
In reply to tmawer:
A good excuse for new year leaf through my 50 year diary. It came up with these suggestions for you:
Lakes:
Dovedale Groove, Dove Crag
Carnival, Eagle Crag Birkness Comb
Grand Slam, Esk Buttress (as well as the well known classics)
Nebuchadnezzar's Dream & Gethsemane, High Crag (as well as the well known classics)
The Dolorous Stroke, Haskett Buttress (not the best E1 in The Lakes but a candidate for the least frequented?)
Amos Moses, The Napes
The Slant & Angel of Mercy, Gable Crag
Columbia, Stonestar Crag
Panjandrum & Pleasure Zone, Shelter Crag; among others.
The Cutter, Erne Crag
Express Crack, Buckbarrow Crag
Too many to list at eg East Buttress and Pillar!
N Wales:
First of all: Cloggy Cloggy Cloggy!
The Groove, Llech Ddu (and, I believe, Elliw, though I've not done it. Yet.)
Condor, Moelwyns
Keel Haul, Graig Cwm Cowarch
and . . . ? This has just gone to show me how much I've concentrated on the "honeypots" when in Wales so - sorry, only a small contribution here. Did I mention Cloggy?
Peak:
If you MUST climb on sedimentary rocks go to Yorks instead and do:
Carnage Left hand, Malham - Brilliant - with use of the one aid point it's just plain old "Yorkshire VS" (which could mean anything, and usually does!)
Thanks for prompting a nostalgic afternoon. I hope you have half the fun I had on some of these.
A good excuse for new year leaf through my 50 year diary. It came up with these suggestions for you:
Lakes:
Dovedale Groove, Dove Crag
Carnival, Eagle Crag Birkness Comb
Grand Slam, Esk Buttress (as well as the well known classics)
Nebuchadnezzar's Dream & Gethsemane, High Crag (as well as the well known classics)
The Dolorous Stroke, Haskett Buttress (not the best E1 in The Lakes but a candidate for the least frequented?)
Amos Moses, The Napes
The Slant & Angel of Mercy, Gable Crag
Columbia, Stonestar Crag
Panjandrum & Pleasure Zone, Shelter Crag; among others.
The Cutter, Erne Crag
Express Crack, Buckbarrow Crag
Too many to list at eg East Buttress and Pillar!
N Wales:
First of all: Cloggy Cloggy Cloggy!
The Groove, Llech Ddu (and, I believe, Elliw, though I've not done it. Yet.)
Condor, Moelwyns
Keel Haul, Graig Cwm Cowarch
and . . . ? This has just gone to show me how much I've concentrated on the "honeypots" when in Wales so - sorry, only a small contribution here. Did I mention Cloggy?
Peak:
If you MUST climb on sedimentary rocks go to Yorks instead and do:
Carnage Left hand, Malham - Brilliant - with use of the one aid point it's just plain old "Yorkshire VS" (which could mean anything, and usually does!)
Thanks for prompting a nostalgic afternoon. I hope you have half the fun I had on some of these.
1
In reply to Martin Bennett:
Thanks Martin....and everyone else, for all the suggestions; quite a number I have done, but certainly enough that I haven't, to give a busy year....weather permitting!
Thanks Martin....and everyone else, for all the suggestions; quite a number I have done, but certainly enough that I haven't, to give a busy year....weather permitting!
In reply to tmawer:
Bucket Rider (E1 5c) on Pant Ifan is very good. Hey! (E2 5b) just next to it is OK as well though a bit artificial (still not sure if I went right way)
Bucket Rider (E1 5c) on Pant Ifan is very good. Hey! (E2 5b) just next to it is OK as well though a bit artificial (still not sure if I went right way)
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