UKC

Hi

I've got planning permission to build a small rear extension and Im thinking about incorporating climbing holds on the inside walls and flat roof. Instead of adding a typical layer of sleepers and plywood, Im just wondered if there is a way to build a new wall and to attach climbing holds straight onto it? I don't think breezeblocks will suffice, so Im wondering if there any other options??

In reply to MidhurstAndy:

why will [breezeblocks] not do?? lots of diff density

In reply to MidhurstAndy:


What happens when you get bored and want to change the holds about?

In reply to MidhurstAndy:

If the breeze blocks are the heavier sort, you could attach bolt on holds with expansion bolts but if they are the more commonly used lightweight breeze blocks (soft enough to be cut with a hand saw) they wouldn't have the strength to take expansion bolts.
Even assuming the former, it would be a lot of work to drill enough expansion bolts to make a decent wall and it would be vertical so not of as much training value as an overhanging wall, 10 to 15 degrees is the optimum for most climbers.
A wall with holds bolted straight into the masonry would also be difficult to alter and move holds around to reset boulder problems in future.

The building inspector might also raise an eyebrow since it won't have a plastered finish if its covered in bolt on holds so you might have trouble getting a completion certificate (needed when selling the house).

It might actually be easier just to make a standard plywood wall once the extension is finished, perhaps hinged at the base so it can be pushed up vertically out of the way when not in use and removed when selling in future.

In reply to Name Changed 34:
and any one else



Oh what to do on a wet Sunday afternoons?

For my benefit, those of us considering a build may take this on board ;


[[[[[[[[[[[I've got planning permission to build a small rear extension]]]]]]]]]]
Is it PP or building regs approval? if PP you will need regs , why you needed PP is questionable, permitted development rights would [normally] allow a sing story extension I guess single story as you talk of flat roof ?

If you have regs approval the type of wall /s will be stated. however departure are common and BI, on the whole are helpful,

what is the Ex for utility? I guess its not the daughters bed room or the wall idea is not a good one }}but it's one way to get them to move OUT{{
Are the walls to be plastered ? the BI, could Question the U value with out plaster but unlikely
is a dry lining proposed ? if so you need a re think
lookinto hard wall plasters if you plaster

what I would do is ;
use a concrete solid of at least 7Kn density you can get up to 17KN thickness depending on the build requirements but nominally 4'' you may have 3'' on specks
have it built as finished work [not to plaster] get a neat block layer.
Now assuming you have some manual skill Resin fix your self in the following fashion
1 drill into NOT through inside wall from inside keep 50mm ish from corner of blocks depending on density
2cleen
3resin hole and leave a test sample to had
4have a SET bolt of the same gauge and diameter of the hold fixing bolts [ set bolt is fully threaded the whole length] a bolt is part threaded.
GREASE it, lightly
5 place into resin hole
6 this is the hard part [so keep one or two blocks back from the build] as it starts to ''gel'' unscrew the bolt a half turn Note the sample and the hole gel at slightly different times. as it gels more / firmer unscrew
7 repeat for all wall
8 leave to set fully
9 bolt on hold
10 remove holds as you have mastered that route and replace with diff hold or drill again
11 when selling house plaster wall [remove holds first!!!!!!!!!!!!!]
12 do not pay heed to the so sayer's that tell you about resin being compromised by the grease, first it will be fine one work, dictum meum pactum
second, if you do fall how far?
third try pulling out the test block!!

Ceiling this is harder as you are more likely to compromise the fire sound and insulation of the build so prepare to have a lower ceiling height say up to 70mm

I love the building advise on ukc thankfully the climbing advise is on the whole better -------ish!


Edit if a hole fails re drill same hole same size and re resin
unlike expansion bolts this is easy, moreover the integrity of the wall is less compromised

love the dislike

In reply to MidhurstAndy:

Why not just build a timber framed extension ? The outside can be whatever your house is,while the inside would be much easier to make into a climbing wall. P.s I'm a builder so anymore information I provide will be charged at an hourly rate

In reply to MidhurstAndy:

Not sure if I understand but it sounds like the new wall will be vertical? You really want the wall to be overhanging: preferably in the region of 20 - 45 degrees, depending on one's ability and goals. I think that's why plywood is a near universal solution to indoor walls. Vertical walls just aren't much use for training on.

In reply to MidhurstAndy:

The plywood solution has a lot going for it: it's easy, cheap, can be modified trivially and repeatedly with diy tools and you can remove it if and when you want to.

If you just want a few holds scattered around the vertical walls of your room to play on occasionally then my advice would be don't bother, you'll use them a few times at most. No training value and no fun.

jk

In reply to Name Changed 34:


So if its not to much to ask how's about some feed back to justified the dislikes,

Wrong tone of post
wrong type of wall
wrong type of fix
all the above and more?

In reply to Name Changed 34:

I was surprised that after spending all that time writing it you got so many, I don't think there's anything wrong with it, although I got a dislike for mentioning a timber framed building. But then again I'm used to dislikes anyway. Just for the record I'm not one of the dislikers.

In reply to Name Changed 34:

Another 'non-disliker' here, but maybe folk thought it was overkill....and kind of the wrong (or at least inappropriate) solution. And of course, it being UKC, the typos! Sorry, you did ask!

In reply to Name Changed 34:


*Over complicated. Why go to the hassle of casting your own rather substandard 'inserts' when you could glue in robust inserts ready made in metal for a few quid.
*Wrong solution. How long is a vertical wall scattered with a few hard to move bolt on holds really going to entertain a climber for. A tilting plywood board is trivial to build and has much greater training and entertainment value plus you can tilt, re-set, modify or remove it as goals and life change.
*Smug final flourish mocking other contributors.

If it helps I'm not one of your 'dislikes'.
jk

In reply to Fraser:


. And of course, it being UKC, the typos! Sorry, you did ask!

no not Typos just crap spelling

In reply to Wsdconst:

A timber frame would be easy to lay in to a angle and would have a solid feel

In reply to jkarran:

Its not the fact the post has a dislike, it was about why, and what was wrong with the proposed.
yes it had it pejorative elements.
I am not saying the advise on this post is not sound, but on others that I have seen the advise that beggars belief, sometimes.

However, walls that overhangs are better, but the op talks of small Ex and including the ceiling; a 90 overhang, but yes I take the point a off plum wall is would be preferable.

Part of my asking is that I have the opposition of fixing to a plum outside wall, and was thinking of how and what to do. My line [For my benefit] was intended.
So a Q. to the Gods of training walls, is it really so bad if the wall is plum, given the choice plum wall, or no wall, witch would it be?


jk
Re the resin fix I do see your point, against, my proposed would be outside so stainless would be needed, and it is a cement rendered stock brick wall, so I would want any fixing to be just a little longer.
Do you know of a supply of such? a quick Google only had short type stuff or helicoils -- not cheep;

In reply to Name Changed 34:




First it seems like false dichotomy. Plywood is not that expensive and if too much then worth saving up for. In the mean time it would be better to train with weights, pull up bar, mini campus board or fingerboard.

I agree with JK that a small indoor vert wall is largely a waste of time for training purposes.

In reply to Name Changed 34:


I covered the why or at least what I disagreed with in your post. I can only guess at what others found to dislike. It's clearly a considered post from a specific perspective but to me it misses the point a little: build the extension, build a wall in it. Two separate builds minimally connected to each other makes everything easier and better.


UKC is a broad church, you do have to filter the responses you get to most questions but there's usually someone who knows what you're after or can point you in the right direction even for the most obscure information.


Plumb vertical basically means training on tiny crimps or hideous slopes. You can simulate an overhang with roof holds but they end up being jugs at funny angles or weird pinches, not especially specific unless you spend most of your time climbing tufa in caves. I've trained on walls like this and it can be made to work but why would you choose to if starting with a blank slate.


Outdoor walls in the uk are in my opinion at least as someone well past the first flush of mad enthusiasm for climbing a waste of time. Too miserable in winter. Better things to do in summer.


None. I'd Spend the money at my local wall or do it right. You can build a great training wall in a tiny space with some creativity and basic skills/tools.


M10 Threaded rod joiners spring to mind at ~20p each. Add a few nicks with the grinder to boost pull out resistance if needed and you're good to go. You can probably buy designed for the job glue in sleeves with a bit of googling.

In reply to Name Changed 34:


For using pretentious Latin phrases on a building thread!



(I didn't dislike for the record)

In reply to jkarran:

well that's clear, thanks and I'm sure you and others [STP] will have spent a lot more wall time than I have


I'm not right your not wrong, how the hold is stuck is secondary to whether it should be there at all.

In reply to Lusk:

I give you my word not to do it again

unless its Sunday and raining