UKC

I would be very keen to hear from people that know of a boot that can replace the 5.10 Blanco, now that they are discontinued. I have heard that some strong climbers are stashing them...

I found a pair suffering in a muddy ditch at Harrison's Rocks, covered in mud and mess. Asked around, and then lovingly restored them. I lead 40 trad routes at Swanage, Wintour's Leap and some dws in Mallorca in those beauts, but they went the way of all flesh.

What would you recommend as a good and similar shoe?

In reply to jotunscope:

Love mine, you can still find the odd pair for sale if you get lucky with the size.

I heard a rumour they're going to produce another batch, but it could just be an unfounded rumour.

I like the look of the new Verdons but not tried a pair yet.

In reply to jotunscope:

I think they are a great shoe and really good for steep very technical edgy climbing, though they do take a long time to break in. My last pair (yes I bought and stashed a few pairs) are still sitting in the box and I am just thinking about starting to wear them in order to break them in for this summer.

Since they were discontinued I have also been using the La Sportiva Miura VS which are really good, but not quite as precise in my opinion. Obviously, there are the new Verdon Lace which have had positive reviews, but I have not worn them yet. I was going to buy a pair, until the rumour emerged about the Blancos being reintroduced, so will wait a while until that is the case or not.

At the end of the day I try not get too paranoid about a particular shoe. Climbing shoes come and go and, on the whole, they get better over time. When La Sportiva discontinued the Kendo's back in the 90's I struggled to find something to replace them for a while. Then Five Ten brought out the Anasazi range and all was well with the world again. And so it goes on....

TJB.

In reply to jotunscope:

Brilliant shoes, sadly discontinued. I stockpiled but managed to leave my last pair at the bottom of Sharpnose when making a rapid exit when the tide came in

In reply to jotunscope:

I bought the new Anasazi Pinks when the Blancos were discontinued and get on with them very well. I currently use my resoled Blancos for indoor climbing and the new pinks for sport and trad and get on with both shoes very well....

In reply to jotunscope:

Definitely one of the best shoes made recently - mine are reserved for slate routes only!!
I heard as well in V12 the other day that they were going to be reintroduced or a limited production run done. Haven't found any flat shoes that quite compare so I'm currently using some more down turned alternatives - the Scarpa Boostic is my shoe of choice atm!!

In reply to jotunscope:

you're not the first person to think about this...

https://www.facebook.com/bringbacktheanasaziwhite/

In reply to jotunscope:

Loved the Blanco, but I am getting on well with the Verdon

In reply to kyaizawa:



I've heard this rumour a lot now. Is there any substance to it? Do V12 or any other shops have anything official from 5.10?

In reply to jotunscope:

"If you are still mourning the loss of the famous 'Whites' then I think we have found the solution for you. Enter the Verdon.
Ever since I first picked a pair of these up to test a few weeks back I have been incredibly impressed by their all round performance. It took one route to 'bed' them in but to be honest they really do have that 'out-of-the-box comfort' feel.

There were a lot of upset people in the UK when the White Anazasi were discontinued last year. People all over were resorting to stock piling as many pairs as they could, while others accepted the situation and started the transition to the new style Pinks."

http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com.au/2015/06/510-verdon-review.html

In reply to duncan b:

I heard the same through CragX, I'll dig deeper...

In reply to Morgan Woods:


Do they have the same shape as the Blancos though? "Out of the box comfort" depends on boots being the same shape as your feet and so is person dependent! I get "out of the box comfort with" Anasazis, but I know people who simply don't get on with them.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

I'm sure Ethan is a straight up guy but someone saying their sponsor's new product is amazing doesn't hold much weight with me, especially when the "word at the crag" is they're not a patch on the whites.

I actually prefer the new pinks but I'm a punter. Ned Freehally seems to manage everything in a battered pair of moccasyms though so what's everyone else's excuse.......

In reply to jotunscope:
I am on my last pair, sad times : (
All the new shoes don't seam to fit my feet
I did have a few pairs of the the old boosters and stix, the newer versions of these have now been changed and dont fit well, they all seam to be like the sportivas and need a big big toe or something.
Please bring back the whites : )

Heard some good things about the Hiangle but have yet to try these.

In reply to galpinos:

Had a look at the Verdons today.the toe is a very different shape to all the Anasazis, so will fit different people "straight from the box".