UKC

Well goodbye warm 2015, hello snowy 2016!

The first couple of days of ne new year were cold and dry, firming up the surviving snow, putting a good, but thin, base into all the main gully lines. Since monday it has been very stormy in the mountains, with strong Easterly winds and a considerable accumulation of new snow. The snow line was very clear yesterday at around 500 meters.

Climbing conditions are therefore back in. Mixed routes are needing a lot of digging, Louisa Reynolds MIC was on Deep Throat in Coire an Lochain on tuesday and described lots and lots of digging!

Strong winds and lots of snow have also created a 'Considerable' avalanche hazard. Today's avalanche forecast saying: "Unstable windslab will continue to build rapidly in depth on Westerly to Northerly aspects above 950 metres with steep gully exits, corrie back walls and steep convex terrain most affected, here avalanches are likely."

Terrain described is therefore basically winter climbs, especially gullies!
Keep an eye on the avalanche forecast here: http://www.sais.gov.uk/northern-cairngorms/

It is raining heavily in Aviemore now, so more snow arriving.
Looking ahead the weather pattern looks promising, some lighter winds and a dusting more snow over the weekend, freezing levels rising slightly which will help to consolidate the snowpack.

Expect a busy weekend in the Northern Corries, take heed of the avalanche forecast and enjoy!

http://www.stewartmountainskills.com

In reply to ian stewart:

Doesn't look great for the Northern Corries this weekend does it? Although perhaps fiacal buttress will be scoured. E facing crags look to be the best bet for low avalanche risk and scoured / icy ground.

Apologies - 'Fiacaill Buttress', I wonder if Hell's Lum would be worth a look?

In reply to CurlyStevo:
Shelterstone maybe a better option with the Easterlies. But you could get a good look at Hells Lum on the way in.

In reply to drunken monkey:

Hells Lum is ESE, with the recent wet weather there will likely be a lot of seepage freezing up as water ice.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Possibly. Has it been cold enough for decent ice build up.

In reply to drunken monkey:
That was the question really. The strong sub zero Easterly winds will have helped.

It doesn't look to have thawed (much ?) since last Friday when there were 65 mph winds with likely temps of -4 or below at that altitude.

http://www.weatheronline.co.uk/weather/maps/city?LANG=en&WMO=03065&ART=MXMN...

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Was looking at Cairngorm summit temps earlier. -2c. Wind might have helped. I've not seen any recent reports from the cairngorms so unsure if ice is building in the northern corries etc.

In reply to ian stewart:

Some photos from the weekend here
https://www.facebook.com/stewartmountainskills/

The crags are plastered, a lot of digging required on mixed routes. The gullies have filled in with a lot of snow in the last week, but are still quite soft. Mirror direct is formed but quite narrow and thin still.

Lots of unstable snow around, keen an eye on the avalanche forecast. Also testing navigation conditions, don't forget a map and compass!

Looks good and cold with light winds for the next few days, enjoy!

In reply to ian stewart:

Yes, two people got avalanched today out of Jacob's ladder today first thing in the morning....The changed their mind after that...

In reply to ian stewart:

The conditions were highly variable on Saturday but I did see quite a lot of windslab sitting on very icey snow just waiting to go.