UKC

So this guy Matyas posted a short video.
This stuff looks top legit and totally next level as far as engineering plays a role in this sport.

He did a new replica of Action Directe however this time it's in one full piece.

vimeo.com/151014192

For me, it got my blood pumpin in my forearms, stuff just motivates hard.

Amazing training technique.

In reply to sixdegrees:

Can you explain the next level engineering to me?
He made some holds and put them on a wall as far as I can see, is there more to it than that?

Also, that's very much not how you use a table saw, yikes!

In reply to Dandan:



Getting that wrong certainty can get the blood pumping...

In reply to sixdegrees:

What an excellent video. Madness and brilliance in one!

In reply to sixdegrees:

Didn't know Action Directe was only 3 metres high?

In reply to sixdegrees:

But can he convert it to the real thing, then it gets impressive

In reply to sixdegrees:

I wonder if there is a market for selling a classic climbs 'hold set', where you buy a set of holds fashioned in the shape of those on some legendary test piece? *

All you'd need to do is screw them to a wall of suitable angle (adjustable angled wall?).

I can supply the holds to the world's hardest slab climb if required.*

In reply to sixdegrees:

Hi Matyas, we know it's you. Good luck with the redpoint!

In reply to Shani:

I'd love it if the local wall started providing named replica routes, it's be a lot of work but I am sure you could get quite close in concept.

e.g. Right wall in 3 stages up the same strip of wall would make a nice set of 6b-cish routes!

In reply to petellis:

you're only allowed to clip the first bolt and the lower off though

In reply to Shani:


I'm sure we've all got some old credit cards about we could put to such a purpose

In reply to petellis:
e.g. Right wall in 3 stages up the same strip of wall would make a nice set of 6b-cish routes!

Superb suggestion. What about a whole room dedicated to the pitches of The Nose of El Cap or the Brandler Hasse?

In reply to sixdegrees: All this guy (or even you) has done is put some holds on an overhanging board. This is not "legit", "next level", "engineering" or even "madness and brilliance", it's just an obvious next step if you want to climb something like AD.

I have made a replica of my local bakery counter so I can be ready when it opens in the morning, so I know where to stand and what to look for insintctively. I'm the boss of next level engineering.

In reply to sixdegrees:

The footholds will be different - AD is fairly flush and not covered in nubbins!

In reply to sixdegrees:

Some time last century, I remember hearing of somone(possibly Ben Moon) taking imprints of holds using tin foil to manufacture holds for their board.

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Didn't Malcolm Smith famously make a replica?

In reply to Dandan:


I've never used a table saw, why is that (more) dangerous?

In reply to 3leggeddog:


Correct, Ben Moon- Around 37.45 onwards in this:

youtube.com/watch?v=TDehyNg7Hp0&

Buoux.

In reply to Shani:


Hubble, if my memory is correct. Which it often isn't....

In reply to Shani:


Yep, there's a video online somewhere about it too.
Why anyone would dislike your post is a mystery too

In reply to Chris Harris:
Thanks for that , not sure I'd seen it before . Don't remember so many of the great and the good having such Cool hair do s. Thought I was watching a Bon jovi promo.
Edit: " oooo ooooo oooo going down in blaze of glory .."
youtube.com/watch?v=MfmYCM4CS8o&

In reply to sixdegrees:

Great video about Action Directe for anybody who's not seen it:

vimeo.com/6848413

In reply to Chris Harris:




It was for a famous project called Le Bombe Bleu. Still unclimbed and 9a+/b apparently.

In reply to Timmd:

When you are cross cutting (cutting across the short dimension of a piece of wood, usually across the grain) like that you use a cross cut sled, a perpendicular guide that runs on a rail parallel to the blade. This keeps the wood square to the blade and greatly minimises the risk of kick back, or having the blade bite into the wood and rip it from your grasp, which in turn greatly minimises the risk of losing a finger or three.
Also there should be a riving (sp) knife behind the blade, a fixed, blunt blade that keeps the materials from closing back up and again causing kick back.
Thirdly there should be a blade guard over the whole blade to stop squishy fingers getting too near it, and finally if the bit of wood is that small then guard or not, you should be using push sticks, a sacrificial stick that you use to guide the wood instead of your non-sacrificial fingers.
It's clearly a home made saw so a lot of this stuff is asking a bit much but there is definitely a safer way to do things, even with that equipment!

In reply to Chris Harris:

God, was this really 23 years ago? Eek, I was old, even then! So many vignettes of yesteryear... Tim at my beloved Tay Street, Gill winsome (in a kimona? ('Two girls in silk kimonos, both beautiful, one a gazelle...)), the alluring cut-glass tones of Fliss Butler (whatever happened to her?), Simon Nadin pissing up Beau Geste (Britain's best climber?), Ian Vickers nonchalantly wandering up some crimpfest (Britain's best climber??)

Somehow the not so far away past seems so much further away than the really old past (e.g. the 60s). Does time curve? Probably.

Mick

'Can analysis be worthwhile...
is the theatre really dead?'

In reply to Mick Ward:

Scary how quick it goes. I still have this on VHS somewhere.

In reply to Dandan:

Interesting, thanks.

In reply to sixdegrees:

Where's Rich Simpson when you need him?

In reply to JJL:

You're too late, see the post at 19:19

In reply to deacondeacon:


Along with a few of us on UKC, I have a 'Downstalker'! I suppose in this instance it might be Malcolm himself...

In reply to Aly:

Ha! It was disguised...