UKC

Got a week booked in the Ariege in early April. I have the Rockfax guide and obviously understand the star system, but keen for personal recommendations for routes in the Rockfax "Orange Spot" zone (F5 - F6a+). Especially keen on multipitch options (up to around 10 pitches - we're unlikely to be fit and fast enough to consider the 20+ pitch routes on La Dent d'Orlu, probably too early in the season for the high routes anyway).
Ideas for single pitch gems also welcome. Any suggestions of routes/crags outside the scope of the Rockfax would also be great to hear.
Info. on likely conditions in April also valuable, I'm hoping temperatures and precipitation will allow climbing on Auzat, Sinsat and Calamès, what do folks reckon?
Lastly any feedback on the local grading (rumoured to be tough), I was in Mallorca last April and thought the grading there was pretty stiff, but generally just about fell within the specified grade, is Ariege similar or tougher again?
Cheers for any pointers, and Happy New Year! Ivan.

In reply to The Ivanator:
Some personal favourites:

Auzat:

Trajectoire Quartzienne (5c)
Dérouillez-vous (6a) (tough for 6a!)
Glissouille (5c)
Lovely Day (6a)
Soleil d'Automne (5c)
Spitnogoud (5c)
Roxanne (5c)
La Sabine (5c) (totally brilliant!)
Jolie Môme (6a)

Auzat is quite shady: it can be cold in the morning and take a day or so to dry out after rain.

Calames:

Les Neiges du Kilimandjaro (5c)
Le Ratichon Blagueur (6a+)
Voleur de Corde (6a)
and pretty much everything on Sector Papy!

Calames is a sun trap and dries very quickly - should be a good choice for multipitch in April.

I've only ever climbed at the lower sectors at Sinsat and they aren't in the same class as Auzat or Calames, though Le Choix du Roy (5c) is good. Better to head uphill for the multipitch stuff if conditions permit.

Ax les Thermes Rocher de Galline is good for an easy/warm-up day. Pick of the routes are
Bien Joué Philou (5c), Saint Sat (5c) and Nouvelles Profiteroles (6a)

Appy is good too, but may be cold in April. Try Love - toi (5c), Cinq des Familles (5c) and Changement à l'Est (5c)

I find the thin slab routes to be quite toughly graded, but other styles of climbing not so bad.

The Rockfax guide is pretty comprehensive - getting anywhere else involves a fairly long drive but Le Cardou and Falaise de Quès look as though they may be quite worthwhile.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Calames - the multi-pitch routes on the Pilier des Cathares fall smack into your grade band, it was warm enough to climb these after sundown on Christmas Eve, so temperature won't be an issue in April, so long as it's dry!
Sector Col is also good for single pitch at 5-6a+.

Verdun, at the extreme RH end of Sinsat is a good sunny venue with lots of single/two pitch routes in your grade band, and lovely rock.

Genat now has more single pitch at your grades, not in any of the guidebooks. It's a lovely spot, but you may have dismissed it as being too tough.

Lots to do at Auzat of course. Alliat, La Loubetiere worth a look too.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Sector Papy is really nice. I've done most of the routes there below 6 and there's hardly a disappointing line. I've probably commented on most of them in my logbook, if that's any help. It faces south and gets any sun going. First time we climbed there was three inches of snow on the ground but it was still delightful. A 70m rope is pretty much essential. With a bit of ingenuity (and a knot in the end of the rope) you can even do the so-called 45m pitches there on 70m.
I think the grading there is not out of the way at all, in fact some of the routes are quite easy for the grade.
There are multi pitch routes on the neighbouring sector Pilier de Cathares. Some of the easy ones ramble a bit. Take your shoes for walking down. Also some of the pitch grading can be a bit controversial (especially on Pour Lubeline).
I would recommend taking a few slings and wires on these routes as the bolting can be a bit variable.
Elsewhere at Calames I didn't find it suited my lowly abilities. I agree with the comment about the slabby stuff being undergraded by my lights.
Didn't climb at Auzat, but other crags in the area don't seem to have much easy stuff, and if there is any it's often harshly graded.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Visited a few years ago Ivan. Really good trip and we had some great accommodation.

Think too early for Dent d'Orlu. Likely still snow /snow melt.

At Auzat La Sabine, Djinns, and Trajectoire quartzienne were excellent. Auzat was the stand-out single pitch crag I thought and worth a couple of days.

Peppermint at Sinsat was outstanding, although bring some trad gear for the second 6a pitch as the bolts were a bit spaced and it felt quite serious if steep 6a is close to your limit.

The routes I did at Calames were a bit too similar. Enjoyed them at the time but as with a lot of sport slab climbs I can't remember anything about them now.

Personally found slabby stuff above 6a desparate. Failed at every 6a+ I tried. Guess the locals are good at slabs.

In reply to Laramadness:


That's useful to know - are all the new routes in the UKC Logbook?

In reply to The Ivanator:
Another vote for Calames. The multi pitch routes there are very good.
Generally, we found grading on slab sections somewhat under graded, whilst grading on vertical/overhanging pitches were often a bit soft.
Big selection of crags within a small area. Weather should be good. Plenty to do - enjoy

In reply to Laramadness:



Alf mentioned these recently, whereabouts are they and is there any on-line info?

Cheers

Chris

PS Congrats on the full moon Christmas eve ascent of Pillier des Cathares - nice one!

In reply to All:
Thanks everyone for the tips, very interesting reading. I generally regard myself as being more proficient on slabs than other forms of climbing, but sounds like Ariege is the place to test that theory!
The route list in Mark's post looks great, and I will be searching for those comments Rog! Peppermint is high on the "to do" list Lee, will definitely be packing a set of nuts and a few slings to ease nerves.

In reply to The Ivanator:

I wouldn't dismiss getting something done on the Dent d'Orlu completely, the East Face routes can be snow free and dry early in the season if there hasn't been too much snow/rain over the winter.

The weather is a bit of a lottery - you are in the mountains after all. In April we have had every thing from -6C to +28C, and from deep snow in the valley, to too hot climb on south facing cliffs.

The grades are towards the upper end of the spectrum 'solid but fair', not as harsh as Mallorca but a notch (or two!) above Kalymnos.

It is superb part of the world and nearly always amazingly quiet - enjoy!


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Thanks Chris, reassuring to hear that the grades are (at worst) no harsher than Mallorca. I realise that the weather is pot luck to an extent, so wondered if you know of any places within say a 3 hour drive with decent orange spot climbing that might have decent weather if the Ariege crags are wet (we have a fair tolerance for cold).
Cheers, Ivan

In reply to The Ivanator:

When we had a very wet night and day in the Ariege we took the motorway down to Narbonne and climbed in the Massif de la Clape, between Narbonne and the sea. Should fit into your 3hr limit quite easily, though when we went the Aude had flooded most of the roads we needed to use so it took a bit longer. There is a decent local guide which we picked up in tourist info at Gruissan. We decided it was worth the trip, having done 7 routes by the time we left (a bit less than 1 hour in the car per route, so maybe debateable).
Btw, there is a decent local guide for some of the Ariege crags if you want to support local bolting.

In reply to Mark Bull:

Mark, yes, I've added them recently. They seem to be popular already.

In reply to The Ivanator:
Sorry 'The I', when I said sector Col at Calames, what I meant was sector Presse-Puree/Sangria! Second others good opinions on sector Papy and Auzat. You will probably enjoy sector Oasis on Baychon too!

Grading-wise, it tends to be stiffer on the 'old school' crags - Roquefixade, lower cliffs at Sinsat, lower sectors on Calames. Newer areas such as Alliat Grottes des Fees seem to be rather generous.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Hi Chris - the new routes are to the right of Uranus and Palo, ie to the right of the previously furthest right routes on the main section, and continuing up the slope a bit it seems. Info on cafma (not been there myself yet).

In reply to Laramadness:

Great, many thanks! I found the topo at
http://cafma.free.fr/genat/corvus/corvus.pdf

In reply to The Ivanator:

Another vote for Calames esp Le Papy and Cathares.
Peppermint is easily the best day out I've had in Ariege, but also on Sinsat Upper there's fun to be had at Pubis.
Appy is certainly a lovely place to climb ( very gneiss!) and has a nice walk to get to it.
At Auzat we liked Sector Le Far - less trees & leaves but harder grading, we thought.
I don't think anyone's mentioned La Roche Ronde where we liked "Penelope" a 4 pitch 5+ and to it's right some good 1 & 2 pitch climbs. Another nice approach walk too.
Have been only once to Roquefixade and wasn't so keen on it as some other spots.
At Dent d'Orlu, but low down, to the left of the HUGE face, hidden in the trees is Le Pujol where we did a couple of 2 pitch climbs at amenable grades if you fancy sampling the granite. Incidentally the East Face climbs are only about 10pitches, but still high up the hill. Another lovely approach walk.

In reply to Rog Wilko:
Had a little browse of the crags in the La Clape area and they look like a promising alternative if Ariege weather is unco-operative. Any other suggestions for destinations within a 3 hour drive that might be dry when Ariege crags are wet are very welcome.
Think I'm pretty sorted for Ariege targets now, thanks for the pointers everyone, very helpful in putting together this ticklist (I'll be pleased if we get a quarter of these done):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1367
...could easily have doubled the length of that list, clearly enough in the area to justify several visits.

In reply to The Ivanator:

The La Clape guidebook is quite small - could post it to you if you like.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Sorry to add one, but L'homme des Carrières (6a+) should also be on your Auzat hit list!

In reply to Laramadness:


Montcalm upper tier is well worth the trek-in; don't miss out also on Rupicapra (6a+)

In reply to The Ivanator:


If you drive west for 2hrs you can access Luchon valley crags which give ample choice for a a few days adventure. St Pe d'Ardet is valuable for families / mixed activity beacuse its next to a lake - v popular in the heat.

Crag : orientation : rock-type : drivetime from my home (nr Aspet S of St Gaudens) : No. routes : useful grade range : angle-of-dangle

Saint-Pé-d'Ardet (S): Limestone. 20mins. 60 routes. 6a - 8a. Vertical & Steep.

Ore (W): Limestone 40mins. 30 routes. 5c - 7b. Vertical & Steep.

Cierp Gaud (S): Gneiss. 45mins. 60 routes. 4b - 6c. Very diverse in features - all angles.

TroubatTroubat (S+W): Limestone. 45mins. 70 routes. 5a - 8a. Quarry plus Main. All angles.

Thebe (S): Limestone. 50mins. 15 routes. 5b - 6c. Steep slab.

Saint-Beat (S): Limestone. 50mins. 25 routes. 5b - 6c. Vertical.

Bonrepaux (S): limestone. 50mins. 25 routes. 5c - 6c. Slabby + Vertical.

Saint-MametSt Mamet (W): Granite. 1h10mins. 35 routes. 4a - 6b. Slabby + Vertical.

Bagergue (E): Granite. 1h15mins. 30 routes. 6a - 8a. Vertical.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Hi Rog,
That is a very generous and much appreciated offer. I'll PM you my address, obviously happy to refund any postage, look after and return. If you are ever short of a guidebook (UK or Europe) let me know and (if I have it) I would gladly return the favour - I have a ridiculously groaning shelf full of guides!
Cheers, Ivan

In reply to LeeWood:

Fantastic information Lee, much appreciated - is there a local guidebook for these crags?

In reply to Laramadness & LeeWood:

Those additional routes look good, the list probably needs a dose of the 6a+es, so I'll try and find an even 10 to add.

In reply to The Ivanator:

It's on the way. Don't bother with the postage - put the cash in the mountain rescue collection box next time you see one.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Thanks, Rog ...it is stuff like the fantastic responses I have had to this thread that makes the Forums so valuable, despite their frequently spiky flavour. A guidebook loan definitely goes well beyond the most optimistic hopes I held when posting my initial enquiry.