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Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=631744
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis& old school Sharma powergrunts, and what music!
Posters:
biscuit - becoming the king of fitness. Did you do as well against this weeks goals as last weeks?
Robin Brooke - feeling better & picking up the pace this week?
Joughton - welcome back. How did that VSTG go? Plenty you can do to get fit at a boulder wall, although it does require some discipline I guess to avoid getting sucked into boulder problems
Richard Popp - looks like a fair amount of stuff for just ticking over. How did you go against this weeks plan?
Si dH - welcome back. Good self-analysis. I reckon if the bouldering ticks fall in the spring, the route ticks will be a formality by the autumn - isn't Eastwood Traverse considered to be about route 8a in its own right?
James Moyle - I find I just really like good bread as well. Training books, picture books, biographies...?
hms - solid week. What are you deadhanging on with +15kg, out of interest? Did you get much done around the family plans?
TonyB - your continuous route climbing stuff could be aerocap depending on the rests between routes I guess (and your base fitness of course). Sounds like good commitment on the 7b+. If you're back down that neck of the woods again then do let me know, I'm not far away (Poole). We'll have to a lattice comparison some point - I'm always curious how other people's stats look!
Nick Russell - is it a big extension at Redpoint? Sounds like a good lead wall for training!
The Ex-Engineer - back on it this week?
AJM
spenser - no problem on the stats. I've always been quite cautious about lumpy landings after a bad ankle sprain years ago. How did this week go?
Joyce - I'm willing you extra zzzs through the ether.
Just Tintin - nice job on the 7a! Did our goal-based whitterings give you any thoughts?
Dandan82 - fingers crossed for your rehab!
hokkyokusei - oof sounds like a nasty bug. Any improvements?
stevemarkperry - sounds like an interesting book. How did you get on this week - a good mix?
Ian Bell - glad the elbow is holding out - did you get to put a bit more time into a route before you left?
planetmarshall - from what little I know of hands, I'm not sure thats how they normally look! Hope the rehab is going well.
Humperdink - sounds like a decent time on a tough course, nice one. Your Saturday sounds like hard work too.
alexm198 - must have been a bad hangover! Still, a lesson learnt...
mattrm - fair enough. Psyche comes and goes, and its definitely linked to the sun for me too.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis& old school Sharma powergrunts, and what music!
Posters:
biscuit - becoming the king of fitness. Did you do as well against this weeks goals as last weeks?
Robin Brooke - feeling better & picking up the pace this week?
Joughton - welcome back. How did that VSTG go? Plenty you can do to get fit at a boulder wall, although it does require some discipline I guess to avoid getting sucked into boulder problems
Richard Popp - looks like a fair amount of stuff for just ticking over. How did you go against this weeks plan?
Si dH - welcome back. Good self-analysis. I reckon if the bouldering ticks fall in the spring, the route ticks will be a formality by the autumn - isn't Eastwood Traverse considered to be about route 8a in its own right?
James Moyle - I find I just really like good bread as well. Training books, picture books, biographies...?
hms - solid week. What are you deadhanging on with +15kg, out of interest? Did you get much done around the family plans?
TonyB - your continuous route climbing stuff could be aerocap depending on the rests between routes I guess (and your base fitness of course). Sounds like good commitment on the 7b+. If you're back down that neck of the woods again then do let me know, I'm not far away (Poole). We'll have to a lattice comparison some point - I'm always curious how other people's stats look!
Nick Russell - is it a big extension at Redpoint? Sounds like a good lead wall for training!
The Ex-Engineer - back on it this week?
AJM
spenser - no problem on the stats. I've always been quite cautious about lumpy landings after a bad ankle sprain years ago. How did this week go?
Joyce - I'm willing you extra zzzs through the ether.
Just Tintin - nice job on the 7a! Did our goal-based whitterings give you any thoughts?
Dandan82 - fingers crossed for your rehab!
hokkyokusei - oof sounds like a nasty bug. Any improvements?
stevemarkperry - sounds like an interesting book. How did you get on this week - a good mix?
Ian Bell - glad the elbow is holding out - did you get to put a bit more time into a route before you left?
planetmarshall - from what little I know of hands, I'm not sure thats how they normally look! Hope the rehab is going well.
Humperdink - sounds like a decent time on a tough course, nice one. Your Saturday sounds like hard work too.
alexm198 - must have been a bad hangover! Still, a lesson learnt...
mattrm - fair enough. Psyche comes and goes, and its definitely linked to the sun for me too.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. My fingerboard is a BM1000. With +15kg I've been deadhanging on the 4 & 3 fingers edges onthe bottom row which are 19mm, with the 3 finger on the top row for occasional light relief (25mm?). I really struggle hanging the smallest holds even unweighted so haven't been near them.
Got a surprisingly large amount done despite the family shizzle:
M - cycle commute. Can't remember what I did in the evening - possibly should rehab stuff?
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening. had a concerted attack on the remaining greens. Now down to a hard-core of 5 - 1 mantle onto a ball thing which just isn't going to go ever, 1 weird rockover ditto, 1 involving a greasy volume which I managed to get to the last hold of after various monkeying around to reach volume to give it a darn good brush, 1 which is just brutally hard (got to last move once) and once which has a rockover the other way from something crap to something a long way away.
W - cycle commute. Cycled on to Bloc, new circuits. No grades up when I tried them which was amusing, although the list was stuck up after I had finished. OS of 5,6a,6a+,6b+,6c+. Tried a 7b+ and got shut down around ~23. Tried a 7a+ but rather late in the day - pieced together to ~30. That one is definitely worth more work.
T - cycle commute. 12 mins of planks, 80 (girly) pressups. Birthday meal.
F - 3miles urban walking. Redpoint to try auto-belays. only 6 routes available, mainly far far too easy. Did the (crimpy) black core route 3 times on the trot. Failed to make any headway on the 7a+ which seems to have 2 very distinct cruxes. Then tried their circuits but at 20 moves they are too short. Then lots of bouldering.
S - S&C x 3 with static dishes in place of the planks.
S - Redpoint to try the new leading wall. Warmed up on the auto-belays (6 routes), then 11 full height routes including 7 goes altogether on 2 7a lines. Finding the clipping in particular rather awkward. Not tempted to try the sole 7b after I saw someone on it - there is a jump move before the 2nd clip!! Another 6 auto-belay routes to warm down. Now feeling very tired.
Thanks Andy. My fingerboard is a BM1000. With +15kg I've been deadhanging on the 4 & 3 fingers edges onthe bottom row which are 19mm, with the 3 finger on the top row for occasional light relief (25mm?). I really struggle hanging the smallest holds even unweighted so haven't been near them.
Got a surprisingly large amount done despite the family shizzle:
M - cycle commute. Can't remember what I did in the evening - possibly should rehab stuff?
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening. had a concerted attack on the remaining greens. Now down to a hard-core of 5 - 1 mantle onto a ball thing which just isn't going to go ever, 1 weird rockover ditto, 1 involving a greasy volume which I managed to get to the last hold of after various monkeying around to reach volume to give it a darn good brush, 1 which is just brutally hard (got to last move once) and once which has a rockover the other way from something crap to something a long way away.
W - cycle commute. Cycled on to Bloc, new circuits. No grades up when I tried them which was amusing, although the list was stuck up after I had finished. OS of 5,6a,6a+,6b+,6c+. Tried a 7b+ and got shut down around ~23. Tried a 7a+ but rather late in the day - pieced together to ~30. That one is definitely worth more work.
T - cycle commute. 12 mins of planks, 80 (girly) pressups. Birthday meal.
F - 3miles urban walking. Redpoint to try auto-belays. only 6 routes available, mainly far far too easy. Did the (crimpy) black core route 3 times on the trot. Failed to make any headway on the 7a+ which seems to have 2 very distinct cruxes. Then tried their circuits but at 20 moves they are too short. Then lots of bouldering.
S - S&C x 3 with static dishes in place of the planks.
S - Redpoint to try the new leading wall. Warmed up on the auto-belays (6 routes), then 11 full height routes including 7 goes altogether on 2 7a lines. Finding the clipping in particular rather awkward. Not tempted to try the sole 7b after I saw someone on it - there is a jump move before the 2nd clip!! Another 6 auto-belay routes to warm down. Now feeling very tired.
In reply to hms:
STG - Easter
- V6/7 in Albarracin, Bishop and at home. Try a local V8
- short trip 8a send (Mediterraneo (8a)?)
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight back down.
MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals.
BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)
4/1 - god going back to work is tough. Went to the wall after work, found it all being reset. Did some wide grip pullup sets. Also did a 7:3 fingerboard aerocap session which was even grimmer than I remember it being. 75.7kg weigh-in probably does the trick - a few kg weight belt over last time. Did 7 sets, then a 3 min rest, then another 2 sets before my shoulders started getting sore.
5/1 - finger feeling better. Hurrah! Sufferfest turbo trainer session: The Hunted. Hard work!
6/1 - wall session. Good progress on several problems. Too busy to do stamina and had forgotten good shoes for the board. Some pullups.
7/1 - wall session. More problems worked out for ancap circuit. Some time on the board. Tried some triples bit couldn't really make it work, have to try different problems. Pullups to finish.
8/1 - wall session. Too busy for stamina, again. Frustrating. I need to find a solution to this. Worked out more problems for the AnCap circuit
9/1 - wall session. Thin skin. Pushed on and did the boulder circuit ancap session - first circuit felt fairly steady but shuffled the order round a bit and felt very worked by the end of the second set. Skin too trashed to do anything else.
10/1 - Cuttings. Couple of warmups, then 2 burns on Hall of Mirrors (7c). Linked in 2 overlapping halves which is good. Would have had another go but knee was very sore from a few times slipping out of the kneeler.
A good week. Didn't manage everything on the plan but with the reset and the sore finger I think I did all I could.
Good progress with HoM today too.
Weight started at 75kg, trailed down to just over 74kg by yesterday, although with a solid start and a stationary reading later in the week as work stress caused me to eat more chocolate and cake.
STG - Easter
- V6/7 in Albarracin, Bishop and at home. Try a local V8
- short trip 8a send (Mediterraneo (8a)?)
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight back down.
MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals.
BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)
4/1 - god going back to work is tough. Went to the wall after work, found it all being reset. Did some wide grip pullup sets. Also did a 7:3 fingerboard aerocap session which was even grimmer than I remember it being. 75.7kg weigh-in probably does the trick - a few kg weight belt over last time. Did 7 sets, then a 3 min rest, then another 2 sets before my shoulders started getting sore.
5/1 - finger feeling better. Hurrah! Sufferfest turbo trainer session: The Hunted. Hard work!
6/1 - wall session. Good progress on several problems. Too busy to do stamina and had forgotten good shoes for the board. Some pullups.
7/1 - wall session. More problems worked out for ancap circuit. Some time on the board. Tried some triples bit couldn't really make it work, have to try different problems. Pullups to finish.
8/1 - wall session. Too busy for stamina, again. Frustrating. I need to find a solution to this. Worked out more problems for the AnCap circuit
9/1 - wall session. Thin skin. Pushed on and did the boulder circuit ancap session - first circuit felt fairly steady but shuffled the order round a bit and felt very worked by the end of the second set. Skin too trashed to do anything else.
10/1 - Cuttings. Couple of warmups, then 2 burns on Hall of Mirrors (7c). Linked in 2 overlapping halves which is good. Would have had another go but knee was very sore from a few times slipping out of the kneeler.
A good week. Didn't manage everything on the plan but with the reset and the sore finger I think I did all I could.
Good progress with HoM today too.
Weight started at 75kg, trailed down to just over 74kg by yesterday, although with a solid start and a stationary reading later in the week as work stress caused me to eat more chocolate and cake.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers for the stats AJM. I think it's added a lot: ~ doubled the bouldering, new campus board. Only 2-3 lines on the 30' wall, but 5-6 new lead lines in total. A bit of new toproping + autobelays.
M - 8.3km run. Not very fast, a couple of decent hills.
T - Fingerboard: back 3. Discovered that 6/4 repeaters on the top pockets of BM1000 are too easy.
W - 6km run (in the sun!). Bouldering, TCA. One orange, 2x6C on Mothership. The blue 6C+ I was trying should go next time, too late in the session this week. Core.
T - Rest day.
F - Trampolining. Well, attempted to. Felt sick. Too much chocolate.
S - UCR. Flashed black+green 7a+ (near the loos, opposite the soft yellow 7a). 2x up the mint 7b (opposite tea hatch). Will go next time. Core.
S - Fingerboard: back 3 (again). Discovered that 7/3 repeaters on the top pockets of BM1000 are too easy. Will up intensity again next time! 8km run. A bit faster this time, 4:30/km, only one decent hill.
Strong week. Still calibrating the intensity for the fingerboard, but that's part of the process I suppose. Feeling good about my indoor climbing. Maybe the mint 7b is just soft, or plays to my strengths, but I've never felt close to that grade at UCR before (and the one 7a+ I've done got promptly downgraded). The 6C+ at TCA is not in my usual style: crimps coming round the lip of the roof but feels like it will go fine next time.
The major disappointment of the week was finding that the Snowdonia marathon had filled up. When I last tried to enter (2013, I think), I'm sure there were still places in early February. I think they went within a day this year so I was well out of the running (so to speak) when I pitched up on the 5th. Since it's more about that marathon than just running the distance, I've decided not to enter a different one this year and just focus on getting a better time in my half. I can try again next year! (October 2017 seems like a very long way off.)
Weight: 66.6kg (coming down a bit, but not as quickly as I'd expected. Still on track for sub-66 by end of Jan.)
STG - build some strength/fitness
14 climbing sessions by end of Jan (average 2 per week, indoor or out, routes or bouldering. Just keep doing some climbing!) 7/14
7 fingerboard sessions by end of Jan (average 1 per week) 4/7
Core set after every indoor climbing session 7/7, 100%
70km running by end of Jan (average 10km per week) 43/70
Weight below 66kg again by end of Jan.
MTG
spring: keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Central Wall (E4 6a), Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...
summer/autumn sport trip: Ceuse or Frankenjura? Route objectives TBC when I actually plan something.
Sub-90 half marathon (Bristol half, September). Benchmark 10k (Bristol, May, would be a good bet).
LTG
Varied E5 onsights
Snowdonia marathon. I'll be up at midnight next New Year!
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
> Nick Russell - is it a big extension at Redpoint? Sounds like a good lead wall for training!
Cheers for the stats AJM. I think it's added a lot: ~ doubled the bouldering, new campus board. Only 2-3 lines on the 30' wall, but 5-6 new lead lines in total. A bit of new toproping + autobelays.
M - 8.3km run. Not very fast, a couple of decent hills.
T - Fingerboard: back 3. Discovered that 6/4 repeaters on the top pockets of BM1000 are too easy.
W - 6km run (in the sun!). Bouldering, TCA. One orange, 2x6C on Mothership. The blue 6C+ I was trying should go next time, too late in the session this week. Core.
T - Rest day.
F - Trampolining. Well, attempted to. Felt sick. Too much chocolate.
S - UCR. Flashed black+green 7a+ (near the loos, opposite the soft yellow 7a). 2x up the mint 7b (opposite tea hatch). Will go next time. Core.
S - Fingerboard: back 3 (again). Discovered that 7/3 repeaters on the top pockets of BM1000 are too easy. Will up intensity again next time! 8km run. A bit faster this time, 4:30/km, only one decent hill.
Strong week. Still calibrating the intensity for the fingerboard, but that's part of the process I suppose. Feeling good about my indoor climbing. Maybe the mint 7b is just soft, or plays to my strengths, but I've never felt close to that grade at UCR before (and the one 7a+ I've done got promptly downgraded). The 6C+ at TCA is not in my usual style: crimps coming round the lip of the roof but feels like it will go fine next time.
The major disappointment of the week was finding that the Snowdonia marathon had filled up. When I last tried to enter (2013, I think), I'm sure there were still places in early February. I think they went within a day this year so I was well out of the running (so to speak) when I pitched up on the 5th. Since it's more about that marathon than just running the distance, I've decided not to enter a different one this year and just focus on getting a better time in my half. I can try again next year! (October 2017 seems like a very long way off.)
Weight: 66.6kg (coming down a bit, but not as quickly as I'd expected. Still on track for sub-66 by end of Jan.)
STG - build some strength/fitness
MTG
LTG
BHAG
Thanks Andy,
- The continuous route stuff was supposed to be AeroCap. I normally do this on the bouldering wall here in Loughborough, but was down South over Christmas and this felt like a similar way to get the same effect. My parents live halfway between Bournemouth and Southampton, so I'm down every few months. I'll be there in February and we have a couple of days planned in Portland in Feb. I'd be very happy to compare lattice reports.
Monday - It was pretty cool to be back in the Climbing Station after a couple of weeks away. The circuit board was completely reset, so it was good to get the rare opportunity to try and onsight the circuits. I didn't try anything harder than 7a but managed to onsight both the two 7a circuits. I followed this with training on the systems board. I haven't really used this before, and have been warned about it being ferocious and so made up as easy problems as possible. It went fairly well and I'll start making them a little harder each week. Followed up by continuous climbing.
Tuesday - First attempt at double 7a circuits. I see this as my priority area and am optimistic about making some improvements here. My first attempts weren't great, failing half way through the second lap on both circuits. I'm not too worried at this stage, but lets see how it goes in the following weeks. Followed with core and a very short shoulder stability session.
Wednesday - rest
Thursday - fingerboard
Friday - antagonist exercises in the gym.
Saturday - family bouldering at the miniworks. It was a really fun session, but couldn't really count as training.
Sunday - rest
Goals for next week.
Similar sessions to last week on Monday and Tuesday - would like to see improvements in both
I'm off to El Chorro on Friday for a long weekend. I plan to try some very quick 7b redpoints and possibly try some 7a+ onsights. Any suggestions would be great. I was at Sector Suizo of Frontales last time, and thought that the Judea del Frente Popular looked like a good one at 7a+. I won't be able to get to Makinodromo as I'll be based at sectors with a good spread of grades as I'll be with my wife. I was thinking of Suizo, Arab Steps and possibly Desplo.
> TonyB - your continuous route climbing stuff could be aerocap depending on the rests between routes I guess (and your base fitness of course). Sounds like good commitment on the 7b+. If you're back down that neck of the woods again then do let me know, I'm not far away (Poole). We'll have to a lattice comparison some point - I'm always curious how other people's stats look!
- The continuous route stuff was supposed to be AeroCap. I normally do this on the bouldering wall here in Loughborough, but was down South over Christmas and this felt like a similar way to get the same effect. My parents live halfway between Bournemouth and Southampton, so I'm down every few months. I'll be there in February and we have a couple of days planned in Portland in Feb. I'd be very happy to compare lattice reports.
Monday - It was pretty cool to be back in the Climbing Station after a couple of weeks away. The circuit board was completely reset, so it was good to get the rare opportunity to try and onsight the circuits. I didn't try anything harder than 7a but managed to onsight both the two 7a circuits. I followed this with training on the systems board. I haven't really used this before, and have been warned about it being ferocious and so made up as easy problems as possible. It went fairly well and I'll start making them a little harder each week. Followed up by continuous climbing.
Tuesday - First attempt at double 7a circuits. I see this as my priority area and am optimistic about making some improvements here. My first attempts weren't great, failing half way through the second lap on both circuits. I'm not too worried at this stage, but lets see how it goes in the following weeks. Followed with core and a very short shoulder stability session.
Wednesday - rest
Thursday - fingerboard
Friday - antagonist exercises in the gym.
Saturday - family bouldering at the miniworks. It was a really fun session, but couldn't really count as training.
Sunday - rest
Goals for next week.
Similar sessions to last week on Monday and Tuesday - would like to see improvements in both
I'm off to El Chorro on Friday for a long weekend. I plan to try some very quick 7b redpoints and possibly try some 7a+ onsights. Any suggestions would be great. I was at Sector Suizo of Frontales last time, and thought that the Judea del Frente Popular looked like a good one at 7a+. I won't be able to get to Makinodromo as I'll be based at sectors with a good spread of grades as I'll be with my wife. I was thinking of Suizo, Arab Steps and possibly Desplo.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Yes you're right about Eastwood Traverse, considered to be about F8a. It's still not quite the same though - you can work any move on it from the ground for one thing
Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [so far T Crack and A Case of Mistaken Identity.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. After Font, do Moffatrocity if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).
This week:
M - 2.5 hrs at Climbing Unit. Warmed up then spent about 1-1.5 hrs on the right hand end of the comp wall (45 degrees relaxing gradually to vertical). Repeated a blue that had changed slightly (is about V6) and then worked the moves on a black from the previous month's comp that was about V8. Did all the moves but no link and stopped as the crux was tweaking a tendon in my right index finger, very crimpy. Then spent an hour working a yellow on the main comp wall (about 40 degrees relaxing to 30?) It's probably V8+. I've done all the moves but the crux is really hard, right at the top, and every move is powerful. Was trying to do it from half-way up (ie after yarding up the lower half on big jugs). That would mean overlapping halves.
T - 2.5 hrs at Climbing Unit. Warmed up then spent about an hour on the same yellow again. No further progress but felt stronger on it and closer to doing the link I wanted. Then spent about an hour on the woodie. Good session.
W - rest
T - rest (as the monthly comp was on Friday, so I climbed Friday in stead of Thursday).
F - Climbing Unit comp. Scored 234 points, not quite my highest (have scored in the 240s a couple of times) but it was fairly hard this month so am happy with that. Not seen the overall results yet.
S - rest
S - bouldering at Baslow. Did Hot Ziggerty (highball Ft 6C/7A) then spetn a few hours working Flatworld (Ft 7B+). No tick but got through the crux twice and don't quite move decisively enough to carry on. Should go if I get on it again soon in good conditions and I'm fresh. Not done 7B+ so this was really encouraging (and it used to get 7C!) Need to train left arm lock-offs.
Weight last Sunday night was 11 stone 1 lb.
Good week overall. Monday/Tuesday were really good training-wise and performance Friday/Sunday pretty good.
Si
Cheers Andy. Yes you're right about Eastwood Traverse, considered to be about F8a. It's still not quite the same though - you can work any move on it from the ground for one thing
Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [so far T Crack and A Case of Mistaken Identity.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. After Font, do Moffatrocity if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).
This week:
M - 2.5 hrs at Climbing Unit. Warmed up then spent about 1-1.5 hrs on the right hand end of the comp wall (45 degrees relaxing gradually to vertical). Repeated a blue that had changed slightly (is about V6) and then worked the moves on a black from the previous month's comp that was about V8. Did all the moves but no link and stopped as the crux was tweaking a tendon in my right index finger, very crimpy. Then spent an hour working a yellow on the main comp wall (about 40 degrees relaxing to 30?) It's probably V8+. I've done all the moves but the crux is really hard, right at the top, and every move is powerful. Was trying to do it from half-way up (ie after yarding up the lower half on big jugs). That would mean overlapping halves.
T - 2.5 hrs at Climbing Unit. Warmed up then spent about an hour on the same yellow again. No further progress but felt stronger on it and closer to doing the link I wanted. Then spent about an hour on the woodie. Good session.
W - rest
T - rest (as the monthly comp was on Friday, so I climbed Friday in stead of Thursday).
F - Climbing Unit comp. Scored 234 points, not quite my highest (have scored in the 240s a couple of times) but it was fairly hard this month so am happy with that. Not seen the overall results yet.
S - rest
S - bouldering at Baslow. Did Hot Ziggerty (highball Ft 6C/7A) then spetn a few hours working Flatworld (Ft 7B+). No tick but got through the crux twice and don't quite move decisively enough to carry on. Should go if I get on it again soon in good conditions and I'm fresh. Not done 7B+ so this was really encouraging (and it used to get 7C!) Need to train left arm lock-offs.
Weight last Sunday night was 11 stone 1 lb.
Good week overall. Monday/Tuesday were really good training-wise and performance Friday/Sunday pretty good.
Si
1
In reply to TonyB:
Is judea the groove line? If so that's amenable 7a+. Most of the stuff on that steep wall by Alicia is good - sex drugs and flamenco and so on.
The one to do, imho, is anack suleman (momia, I think it is). Excellent route, basically long stamina. Couple of good 7a-ish sort of things there too.
I am not sure I did any 7a+/bs at desplo (and I didn't get on with Arab steps), but I found liron careto was a 7c which I ticked bafflingly quickly.
Is judea the groove line? If so that's amenable 7a+. Most of the stuff on that steep wall by Alicia is good - sex drugs and flamenco and so on.
The one to do, imho, is anack suleman (momia, I think it is). Excellent route, basically long stamina. Couple of good 7a-ish sort of things there too.
I am not sure I did any 7a+/bs at desplo (and I didn't get on with Arab steps), but I found liron careto was a 7c which I ticked bafflingly quickly.
In reply to Nick Russell:
I disliked that 7b with a vengence - floundered up to the main lip, clip-to-clip, then failed utterly on the huge move from the angular block, which seemed to have nothing much to hold on it and rubbish feet!
I disliked that 7b with a vengence - floundered up to the main lip, clip-to-clip, then failed utterly on the huge move from the angular block, which seemed to have nothing much to hold on it and rubbish feet!
In reply to AJM:
I've heard great things about Anack Sunamum, but there isn't much at Momia that my wife could do. I'd like to give it a go, perhaps I should warm up somewhere else, give it one go and see what happens.
I'd thought about Liron Careto. The problem is I will probably only get one day at Desplo and 7c in a day will be pretty ambitious.
Have you done Alicia at Suizo? I've done a few things there (bienvenue al circo, and que leche que tengo). My wife was keen to try the first pitch of que leche que tengo, so Alicia could fit the bill quite well.
Why didn't you like Arab Steps? I've done Arabesque which I thought was really good. The top 50 6c beside it was pretty bad though. Did you try the routes that come directly off the steps? I've only walked past them but thought they looked worthwhile.
I've heard great things about Anack Sunamum, but there isn't much at Momia that my wife could do. I'd like to give it a go, perhaps I should warm up somewhere else, give it one go and see what happens.
I'd thought about Liron Careto. The problem is I will probably only get one day at Desplo and 7c in a day will be pretty ambitious.
Have you done Alicia at Suizo? I've done a few things there (bienvenue al circo, and que leche que tengo). My wife was keen to try the first pitch of que leche que tengo, so Alicia could fit the bill quite well.
Why didn't you like Arab Steps? I've done Arabesque which I thought was really good. The top 50 6c beside it was pretty bad though. Did you try the routes that come directly off the steps? I've only walked past them but thought they looked worthwhile.
In reply to TonyB:
I don't know what grade she is after but there are some 5s and 6s around there from memory as well as some new ones that probably aren't in the guide.
Yes, I did Alicia several years ago. I had quite a lot of quite short sessions on it during a winter trip - nipped up there late in the day a few days running. It's good!
I just didn't get along with it. I can't remember the exact reasons, but I remember that 6c and didn't like it, I seem to remember some of the stuff was pretty slick, things like that. Maybe just a bad day but it gave me little incentive to return.
I don't know what grade she is after but there are some 5s and 6s around there from memory as well as some new ones that probably aren't in the guide.
Yes, I did Alicia several years ago. I had quite a lot of quite short sessions on it during a winter trip - nipped up there late in the day a few days running. It's good!
I just didn't get along with it. I can't remember the exact reasons, but I remember that 6c and didn't like it, I seem to remember some of the stuff was pretty slick, things like that. Maybe just a bad day but it gave me little incentive to return.
In reply to AJM:
If you're going to have a BHAG then Tom et je Ris is a good one I think, it would be amazing
You're doing a lot of mileage in a week! Trying to climb 7c outside 5th day on must be pretty tough...
If you're going to have a BHAG then Tom et je Ris is a good one I think, it would be amazing
You're doing a lot of mileage in a week! Trying to climb 7c outside 5th day on must be pretty tough...
1
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM. Tom et Je Ris by Bruno in Verdon is a phenomenal looking route and such a spectacular setting. Inspiring BHAG, whilst totally outside my long term dream, makes me think I need to set some BHAG's!
First week in a month I've felt good (i.e. no xmas lurgy lingering), still quite light, but good to be feeling stronger.
M: 60 mins strength and core
T: Leading at Castle for Fun. 6c+, 6c, 7a, 7a. Warm-up 6a. Climbed as a three.
W: Rest & Shoulder antagonistics.
Th: Rest & Shoulder antagonistics.
F: Endurance - aero cap routes (climb up and down). 2 x 25mins 6a/6b with 15mins break in-between.
S: Outdoor swim 1.5km
S: Leading at Castle for fun. 6b+, 6c, 7a, 7a. Warm-ups: 5+, 6a+, 6b (fun climbing as a three). Finished recent red 7a project clean, felt smooth and fluid and much less strenuous than the prior RP burns which was a great feeling.
STG:
Start four week endurance phase of 12 week periodized plan
Indoor consolidate 7a RP's during fun lead sessions
Get my Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap! Airboot came off on 31/12, walking and swimming now, goal get her to start climbing by 1st Feb
MTG:
7a & 7a+ RP outdoor in 2016
E2 & E3 HP in 2016
Euro road-trip start in 11th April
> Robin Brooke - feeling better & picking up the pace this week?
Thanks AJM. Tom et Je Ris by Bruno in Verdon is a phenomenal looking route and such a spectacular setting. Inspiring BHAG, whilst totally outside my long term dream, makes me think I need to set some BHAG's!
First week in a month I've felt good (i.e. no xmas lurgy lingering), still quite light, but good to be feeling stronger.
M: 60 mins strength and core
T: Leading at Castle for Fun. 6c+, 6c, 7a, 7a. Warm-up 6a. Climbed as a three.
W: Rest & Shoulder antagonistics.
Th: Rest & Shoulder antagonistics.
F: Endurance - aero cap routes (climb up and down). 2 x 25mins 6a/6b with 15mins break in-between.
S: Outdoor swim 1.5km
S: Leading at Castle for fun. 6b+, 6c, 7a, 7a. Warm-ups: 5+, 6a+, 6b (fun climbing as a three). Finished recent red 7a project clean, felt smooth and fluid and much less strenuous than the prior RP burns which was a great feeling.
STG:
Start four week endurance phase of 12 week periodized plan
Indoor consolidate 7a RP's during fun lead sessions
Get my Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap! Airboot came off on 31/12, walking and swimming now, goal get her to start climbing by 1st Feb
MTG:
7a & 7a+ RP outdoor in 2016
E2 & E3 HP in 2016
Euro road-trip start in 11th April
In reply to AJM:
Hi,
Having another attempt at posting regularly here. Sorry for previous flakiness.
Very low level grades, I know - I couldn't get up 4's indoors to start with.
This year I'd like to lead 6c indoors, VS outdoors, and boulder V3 indoors.
Last year I only did trad twice; whatever grade I manage, I'd like to do a lot more of it. The expectation at home is that I will only climb away about twice so I need to sort this out.
The past week:
M: top-roped, failed on a 6b which I could do before Christmas. Led with a new partner which was promising.
T: nothing.
W: long session at White Spider. Led a bit; bouldered a lot, not sure of the grade. Fell of something and screamed, terribly embarrassing; got back on it after a cafe break and finished it (I'm scared of falling off when bouldering).
Th: nothing
Friday: good lead session. Got up a 6a+ but not without wussing about on it. Practised falling.
Saturday: very short run; yoga
Sunday: bouldered without warming up after work at the wall, made a mess of it; then an hour's walk.
Plan for next week (lock-off &lowers each day - can't do pull-ups yet):
M: leading & bouldering; strength ex's
Tues: short run
Wed: bouldering; strength ex's
Thurs: auto-belay stamina
Fri: leading; strength ex's
Sat: short run
Sun: rest (actually work all day at the wall)
Hi,
Having another attempt at posting regularly here. Sorry for previous flakiness.
Very low level grades, I know - I couldn't get up 4's indoors to start with.
This year I'd like to lead 6c indoors, VS outdoors, and boulder V3 indoors.
Last year I only did trad twice; whatever grade I manage, I'd like to do a lot more of it. The expectation at home is that I will only climb away about twice so I need to sort this out.
The past week:
M: top-roped, failed on a 6b which I could do before Christmas. Led with a new partner which was promising.
T: nothing.
W: long session at White Spider. Led a bit; bouldered a lot, not sure of the grade. Fell of something and screamed, terribly embarrassing; got back on it after a cafe break and finished it (I'm scared of falling off when bouldering).
Th: nothing
Friday: good lead session. Got up a 6a+ but not without wussing about on it. Practised falling.
Saturday: very short run; yoga
Sunday: bouldered without warming up after work at the wall, made a mess of it; then an hour's walk.
Plan for next week (lock-off &lowers each day - can't do pull-ups yet):
M: leading & bouldering; strength ex's
Tues: short run
Wed: bouldering; strength ex's
Thurs: auto-belay stamina
Fri: leading; strength ex's
Sat: short run
Sun: rest (actually work all day at the wall)
In reply to Si dH:
I'm always lurking. Ace effort on T-Crack. If you're getting on well with the Flatworld crux, I wouldn't have thought Tetris would pose you too many issues. The Fin sit start is really good at 7B at Gibb Tor if you're over in that direction.
I'm always lurking. Ace effort on T-Crack. If you're getting on well with the Flatworld crux, I wouldn't have thought Tetris would pose you too many issues. The Fin sit start is really good at 7B at Gibb Tor if you're over in that direction.
Post edited at 20:57
In reply to Si dH:
Yeah Toms plans are usually quite high volume and it was all compressed a bit this week due to the resetting (they don't reset in stages, they pull down every problem and start fresh, so Monday the walls were basically empty).
Hopefully this week I might be able to fit a little more rest in!
And yes, I've been hoping that an 8a+/b version of Tom et je Ris would turn up and rate equally high on my inspirationometer as that would make for a slightly less big and hairy goal but I haven't found one so I'm just going to put it out there and see if it helps motivate me for the big picture!
Yeah Toms plans are usually quite high volume and it was all compressed a bit this week due to the resetting (they don't reset in stages, they pull down every problem and start fresh, so Monday the walls were basically empty).
Hopefully this week I might be able to fit a little more rest in!
And yes, I've been hoping that an 8a+/b version of Tom et je Ris would turn up and rate equally high on my inspirationometer as that would make for a slightly less big and hairy goal but I haven't found one so I'm just going to put it out there and see if it helps motivate me for the big picture!
2
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy!
I missed last week, I did stuff but procrastinated posting till there was no point. Nothing exciting happened though. So this week:
Mon - 2 mile hilly run
Tues - 2 mile run, 6 mile bike on hills to get to gym where I had a 1 day free intro, swam 50 lengths - 10 at a time between steam room and sauna! Finally went climbing but dossed about and belayed more than climbed, did bits though. Sucked the marrow from 1 day of annual leave!
Weds -2 mile hilly run. Lead night, worked hard but nothing new.
Thurs - cycled to work but nowt else due to rain!
Fri - 2 mile run, 2 hours climbing, didn't feel like I worked hard enough. My Friday partner struggles a bit so spend more time belaying - can't complain though as belayer on weds doesn't climb at all!
Sat - Bouldered really hard, got s couple of 'blacks', hardest circuit at notts but can't remember the grade in new money - UK tech they were 6a -6c.
Sun - Did easy half of comp problems at Depot, cycled there and back. Then had to take my Dad to see my Mum and home again - lots of driving but got home by 4 so went climbing again at notts! And then this happened.... this is big...
When I started climbing there was a 60 + guy with a very, very busted knee (I can add another very on without overkill!). He used to make me pull that 'How the *&^$*??' face you do when someone floats up something on one leg that that you just did a Michael Flatly impression on before falling on your backside! He never seemed to break a sweat and appeared to use witchcraft in his footwork with a sort to toe tickling the wall levitation thingy. Anyway, years ago I would point him out as the one that climbs like I want to.
3.5 year later and we've climbed together or in a group when we're all about, he still climbs a shed load better than me! But, wait for it, (the way I rattle on like you have a choice!), this evening he said I should work on strength because he wished he had my technique!!! (!!!!)! OK, he's clearly unaware how he climbs and that he's almost certainly forgotten more than I'll figure out of I climb till I'm 85 but WTF!!! Just that he said it, and I think meant it.
I think the insane amounts of time practising, sometimes a single move, polishing climbs even hurting myself - they added up to something. Now I need to take the advice, pull my finger out, and get going again with strength training.
Cheers Andy!
I missed last week, I did stuff but procrastinated posting till there was no point. Nothing exciting happened though. So this week:
Mon - 2 mile hilly run
Tues - 2 mile run, 6 mile bike on hills to get to gym where I had a 1 day free intro, swam 50 lengths - 10 at a time between steam room and sauna! Finally went climbing but dossed about and belayed more than climbed, did bits though. Sucked the marrow from 1 day of annual leave!
Weds -2 mile hilly run. Lead night, worked hard but nothing new.
Thurs - cycled to work but nowt else due to rain!
Fri - 2 mile run, 2 hours climbing, didn't feel like I worked hard enough. My Friday partner struggles a bit so spend more time belaying - can't complain though as belayer on weds doesn't climb at all!
Sat - Bouldered really hard, got s couple of 'blacks', hardest circuit at notts but can't remember the grade in new money - UK tech they were 6a -6c.
Sun - Did easy half of comp problems at Depot, cycled there and back. Then had to take my Dad to see my Mum and home again - lots of driving but got home by 4 so went climbing again at notts! And then this happened.... this is big...
When I started climbing there was a 60 + guy with a very, very busted knee (I can add another very on without overkill!). He used to make me pull that 'How the *&^$*??' face you do when someone floats up something on one leg that that you just did a Michael Flatly impression on before falling on your backside! He never seemed to break a sweat and appeared to use witchcraft in his footwork with a sort to toe tickling the wall levitation thingy. Anyway, years ago I would point him out as the one that climbs like I want to.
3.5 year later and we've climbed together or in a group when we're all about, he still climbs a shed load better than me! But, wait for it, (the way I rattle on like you have a choice!), this evening he said I should work on strength because he wished he had my technique!!! (!!!!)! OK, he's clearly unaware how he climbs and that he's almost certainly forgotten more than I'll figure out of I climb till I'm 85 but WTF!!! Just that he said it, and I think meant it.
I think the insane amounts of time practising, sometimes a single move, polishing climbs even hurting myself - they added up to something. Now I need to take the advice, pull my finger out, and get going again with strength training.
Post edited at 21:38
3
In reply to JayK:
Cheers
I'm thinking if we can only get a few more good condition days like today, grit 7B+ should happen soon which would be a great confidence boost ahead of Font too.
Cheers
I'm thinking if we can only get a few more good condition days like today, grit 7B+ should happen soon which would be a great confidence boost ahead of Font too.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the round -up. Succumbed to bread twice this week! The books have rolled in: Swiss Alps, The 4000m summits (Moran) Scrambles in Snowdonia (Ashton) - bought after a great thread on UKC, and Another 100 greatest cycling climbs (Warren). Should provide inspiration for a while!
Had a great week despite the weather and being back to work:
Last Sunday (after posting) - RUN - 6km - 150m ascent
Monday - CYCLE - 18.5km - 500m ascent
Tuesday - CYCLE - 19.5km - 500m ascent
Wednesday - RUN - 6.9km - 180m ascent
Thursday - Nothing; worked late
Friday - BOULDER - Improvement but tried some harder problems before properly warmed up. still have slightly sore wrist and forearm. I literally never learn!
Saturday - CYCLE - 42km - 800m ascent
Sunday - RUN - 4.2km - 80m ascent (Early morning run - body very stiff)
Weight is down by at least 2lb to 12st12.Target is 12st. I'm going to use 13st as the baseline (headline?) for the year. Alcohol - 4.5 pints and two glasses of bubbly due to a work meal and family birthday.
Overall, feeling quite smug this week!
> I find I just really like good bread as well. Training books, picture books, biographies...?
Thanks for the round -up. Succumbed to bread twice this week! The books have rolled in: Swiss Alps, The 4000m summits (Moran) Scrambles in Snowdonia (Ashton) - bought after a great thread on UKC, and Another 100 greatest cycling climbs (Warren). Should provide inspiration for a while!
Had a great week despite the weather and being back to work:
Last Sunday (after posting) - RUN - 6km - 150m ascent
Monday - CYCLE - 18.5km - 500m ascent
Tuesday - CYCLE - 19.5km - 500m ascent
Wednesday - RUN - 6.9km - 180m ascent
Thursday - Nothing; worked late
Friday - BOULDER - Improvement but tried some harder problems before properly warmed up. still have slightly sore wrist and forearm. I literally never learn!
Saturday - CYCLE - 42km - 800m ascent
Sunday - RUN - 4.2km - 80m ascent (Early morning run - body very stiff)
Weight is down by at least 2lb to 12st12.Target is 12st. I'm going to use 13st as the baseline (headline?) for the year. Alcohol - 4.5 pints and two glasses of bubbly due to a work meal and family birthday.
Overall, feeling quite smug this week!
Post edited at 22:21
In reply to AJM:
The VSTG went okay, in that I tried a 7c+ and onsighted it - but it wasn't really 7c+.
Mon - frustrating day. Warmed up on a 6c+ at Sex Shop then did a burly 7b called Los Cantolobos. Wanted to get on El Ramalar (7c+) for an onsight go but there was a three person queue (which I thought was ridiculous) so was instead offered the option of doing a first ascent. Pedro Pons had bolted it a while back, never got round to leading it and said I could have a go at around 7b+. Unfortunately I got mid crux and bits of it kept falling off on me so no first ascent - it wasn't very good anyway. Finished off doing another 7b at Sex Shop.
Tue - quick half day. Warmed up on a 7a (its good to feel strong again!) then onsight of Los Caminantes (L1+L2) (7c) - 50m! First half was 7b and tricky but it went okay, then just 30m of wide bridging, chicken wings, chimneying, kneebars and laybacking. Needless to say a full body pump was endured, but it just didn't feel like 7c+ and the UKC comments agree around easy 7c.
Awesome trip though, got a load of 7b/7b+ onsights and a couple of 7cs so I'm glad to feel like I'm not too out of practice.
Wed- Sun - Cramming! Exam tomorrow, fingers crossed I won't regret going climbing the week before...
Cheers, Jake
The VSTG went okay, in that I tried a 7c+ and onsighted it - but it wasn't really 7c+.
Mon - frustrating day. Warmed up on a 6c+ at Sex Shop then did a burly 7b called Los Cantolobos. Wanted to get on El Ramalar (7c+) for an onsight go but there was a three person queue (which I thought was ridiculous) so was instead offered the option of doing a first ascent. Pedro Pons had bolted it a while back, never got round to leading it and said I could have a go at around 7b+. Unfortunately I got mid crux and bits of it kept falling off on me so no first ascent - it wasn't very good anyway. Finished off doing another 7b at Sex Shop.
Tue - quick half day. Warmed up on a 7a (its good to feel strong again!) then onsight of Los Caminantes (L1+L2) (7c) - 50m! First half was 7b and tricky but it went okay, then just 30m of wide bridging, chicken wings, chimneying, kneebars and laybacking. Needless to say a full body pump was endured, but it just didn't feel like 7c+ and the UKC comments agree around easy 7c.
Awesome trip though, got a load of 7b/7b+ onsights and a couple of 7cs so I'm glad to feel like I'm not too out of practice.
Wed- Sun - Cramming! Exam tomorrow, fingers crossed I won't regret going climbing the week before...
Cheers, Jake
Post edited at 22:45
In reply to TonyB:
Depends on your strengths. Arab steps is steep and short in the 7b range. But has loads of grades to go at. For desplo I'd suggest fran sin natra at 7b. Crimpy start and once you've got that worked out the rest is easy. DONT try either of the 5+'s nearby ( next to Liron de care to) they're awful. The 6's at Buena sombra are s bit stiff(cruxy). To the left ( towards the pylon) is s wall of good sixes before you turn the corner, where there are some more decent sixes and low sevens. May be chilly in the shade depending on weather.
Depends on your strengths. Arab steps is steep and short in the 7b range. But has loads of grades to go at. For desplo I'd suggest fran sin natra at 7b. Crimpy start and once you've got that worked out the rest is easy. DONT try either of the 5+'s nearby ( next to Liron de care to) they're awful. The 6's at Buena sombra are s bit stiff(cruxy). To the left ( towards the pylon) is s wall of good sixes before you turn the corner, where there are some more decent sixes and low sevens. May be chilly in the shade depending on weather.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing the stats AJM.
Really good week this week.
Monday: 1 km breast stroke before work, 2.5 hours at the wall, 60% bouldering, 40% routes. Making some good progress on some steep stuff.
Tuesday: Bouldering at the wall, further progress on the steepness.
Wednesday: Nothing
Thursday: Climbing Station Competition (Score of 53 in their intermediate comp which was V2-V5), made some silly mistakes
Friday: Climbing unit competition (Score of 134, put in a really good effort here, I'll probably manage to crack 1 or 2 more over the next couple of weeks)
Saturday: Nothing
Sunday: Bouldering at the roaches, highlight of the day was doing Joe's Arete (f6A), when I got the jug at the top I was so surprised I nearly fell off! First day of outdoor bouldering since I broke my ankle back in september, foot jamming is not going to be pleasant without some serious physio effort on my behalf.
Plan:
Monday: Bouldering at the climbing unit, maybe some top roping/ leading. I'll be introducing a friend to climbing so probably quite a sociable evening.
Tuesday: Bouldering at the climbing unit, work on projects
Wednesday: 2km swim (work allowing, got a bit of a deadline on friday which I should probably meet)
Thursday: Swim before work
Friday: Nothing
Saturday: Bouldering/ trad somewhere, venue will depend on weather.
Sunday: Bouldering/ trad somewhere, venue will depend on weather.
Thanks for doing the stats AJM.
Really good week this week.
Monday: 1 km breast stroke before work, 2.5 hours at the wall, 60% bouldering, 40% routes. Making some good progress on some steep stuff.
Tuesday: Bouldering at the wall, further progress on the steepness.
Wednesday: Nothing
Thursday: Climbing Station Competition (Score of 53 in their intermediate comp which was V2-V5), made some silly mistakes
Friday: Climbing unit competition (Score of 134, put in a really good effort here, I'll probably manage to crack 1 or 2 more over the next couple of weeks)
Saturday: Nothing
Sunday: Bouldering at the roaches, highlight of the day was doing Joe's Arete (f6A), when I got the jug at the top I was so surprised I nearly fell off! First day of outdoor bouldering since I broke my ankle back in september, foot jamming is not going to be pleasant without some serious physio effort on my behalf.
Plan:
Monday: Bouldering at the climbing unit, maybe some top roping/ leading. I'll be introducing a friend to climbing so probably quite a sociable evening.
Tuesday: Bouldering at the climbing unit, work on projects
Wednesday: 2km swim (work allowing, got a bit of a deadline on friday which I should probably meet)
Thursday: Swim before work
Friday: Nothing
Saturday: Bouldering/ trad somewhere, venue will depend on weather.
Sunday: Bouldering/ trad somewhere, venue will depend on weather.
In reply to AJM:
Morning Campers,
The sleep vibes are working, AJM - I got seven hours straight last night!
The wall in Supershed is nearing completion. It should be ready for setting by Wednesday which is handy as that's when most of the holds should be landing on the front porch, then it's game on for circuits, board work and getting the good lady wife back clambering again.
Training Diary WC 04/01/16
Building A Climb Wall = No Actual Climbing!
Monday – DanDan’s Core Workout Wk 2.3. Sheddage
Tuesday – Run – tried out a ‘flat’ 10K course, turned out it was quite flat but only 8.7km, a shame as I was on for a 10K PB too! 8.6km in 33:48 at 3:55m/km pace. GAP at 3:51m/km as 63m of ascent. Cold and crisp and on a winding lane in a tranquil valley – it doesn’t get better!
Wednesday – DanDan’s Core Workout Wk 3.1. Sheddage.
Thursday – Daddage and Sheddage.
Friday – DanDan’s Core Plan Wk3.2. Sheddage.
Saturday – Sheddage.
Sunday – DanDan’s Core Workout – Wk 3.3. Also: run – 8 x 400m Progression Intervals: 1 x 84s, 3 x 80s, 2 x 78s and 2 x 76s. Up, on, or within 2s on all – form went for the last 2 but within a metre when the timer beeped to end the last one – beans given! Need to do more speed work to build for a 5K in a month or so. Finally: sheddage.
Short Term Goals
Be awesome bambino and good lady wife support crew. Other than that, slip in short bursts of climbing/running/finishing off the Supershed wall while we’re all asleep – still on it!
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - still wall building.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks, heel to hand matches, getting feet up and onto hand holds following a cut loose on overhangs (and other weaknesses) – they’re in the post – will put them on the wall this week and get on with it.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope – more interested in ‘The Poop’ than ‘The Loop’ just now).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – yup.
Cuddle my new bambino lots – mucho mucho!
Build a wall in my Supershed when not cuddling the aforementioned bambino – on it.
Weight = 69.2kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
The sleep vibes are working, AJM - I got seven hours straight last night!
The wall in Supershed is nearing completion. It should be ready for setting by Wednesday which is handy as that's when most of the holds should be landing on the front porch, then it's game on for circuits, board work and getting the good lady wife back clambering again.
Training Diary WC 04/01/16
Building A Climb Wall = No Actual Climbing!
Monday – DanDan’s Core Workout Wk 2.3. Sheddage
Tuesday – Run – tried out a ‘flat’ 10K course, turned out it was quite flat but only 8.7km, a shame as I was on for a 10K PB too! 8.6km in 33:48 at 3:55m/km pace. GAP at 3:51m/km as 63m of ascent. Cold and crisp and on a winding lane in a tranquil valley – it doesn’t get better!
Wednesday – DanDan’s Core Workout Wk 3.1. Sheddage.
Thursday – Daddage and Sheddage.
Friday – DanDan’s Core Plan Wk3.2. Sheddage.
Saturday – Sheddage.
Sunday – DanDan’s Core Workout – Wk 3.3. Also: run – 8 x 400m Progression Intervals: 1 x 84s, 3 x 80s, 2 x 78s and 2 x 76s. Up, on, or within 2s on all – form went for the last 2 but within a metre when the timer beeped to end the last one – beans given! Need to do more speed work to build for a 5K in a month or so. Finally: sheddage.
Short Term Goals
Be awesome bambino and good lady wife support crew. Other than that, slip in short bursts of climbing/running/finishing off the Supershed wall while we’re all asleep – still on it!
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ - still wall building.
Slopers, slopers, slopers, heel hooks, heel to hand matches, getting feet up and onto hand holds following a cut loose on overhangs (and other weaknesses) – they’re in the post – will put them on the wall this week and get on with it.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope – more interested in ‘The Poop’ than ‘The Loop’ just now).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability - nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff - nope. At least one BM session a week – nope. Core stuff: 3 core sessions – yup.
Cuddle my new bambino lots – mucho mucho!
Build a wall in my Supershed when not cuddling the aforementioned bambino – on it.
Weight = 69.2kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
2
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Looks like you're getting your psyche back too
LAst weeks goals:
Fingerboard X 1 - DONE
Aero cap X 2 - DONE
Fun session x 1 probably steep bouldering - DONE
Shoulder physio X 7 - 4x DONE
Lose 1lb and .5% fat - DONE
2 X rings sessions - NOT DONE
Easy core X 7 - NOT DONE
Lose 1 lb and .5% BF - DONE 154.2 and 19.4% current score
Again this week didn't really start until Thursday as i had assignments and an exam to do. Then had the kids at the weekend BUT i got all the important stuff done. Just need to get a litle bit more disciplined and get 100% of antagonists done. Not feeling any tweaks etc yet but they will come if i don't get on it.
two good aerocap sessions ( for good read BORING!) definetly fitting more higher grades in during the workouts. Managed upto 40mins in one go on the autobelays and it feels like the technique pointers i was given are coming together.
Tried the BM2000 at work. Whilst i wasn't anywhere near adding weight it was a whole lot easier than my home board, which is quite common. Again the session didn't feel all that hard, but my fingers feel worked today. Noticeably weaker in half crimp than drag - no surprise as i try to open hand most things.
Had an AMAZING session at the Depot. I suppose it's OK if you like your boulderig centres modern, clean, mahoosive, with a huge range of holds and problems that all seem to be really good quality, with a variety of angles. I will grudgingly admit it just edges out the bouldering at work I had a great session. Not too focussed as i was a bit like a kid in a sweet shop. The red circuit (V3-5) seemed to be where i got stuck on the odd steep problem. Nearly got a yellow (V6-8) and got two purples (V5-7) one of which was an amazing mantel followed by an all points off sideways dyno. Not my style at all but got the dyno first go after a few goes on the mantel. Well chuffed.
Had a go on the ciurcuit board after. That's massive too with grades up to 8a+ that i saw. Fell off the last move of the 7a on the on-sight as i got my hands the wrong way round. I didn't feel pumped at all. Maybe the aero cap is working
This weeks goals are same as above.
STG's
I'm not setting indoor route targets as its training not performance and while I'm on aero cap it may get worse.
Bringing in an cap in Feb then an pow in March for a small first cycle before Easter.
Mtg
Chulilla at Easter - 7a+/b on sight. Re-assess where I'm at then before assembling next training cycle to peak end of summer. 12% bf or lower.
Cheers Andy. Looks like you're getting your psyche back too
LAst weeks goals:
Fingerboard X 1 - DONE
Aero cap X 2 - DONE
Fun session x 1 probably steep bouldering - DONE
Shoulder physio X 7 - 4x DONE
Lose 1lb and .5% fat - DONE
2 X rings sessions - NOT DONE
Easy core X 7 - NOT DONE
Lose 1 lb and .5% BF - DONE 154.2 and 19.4% current score
Again this week didn't really start until Thursday as i had assignments and an exam to do. Then had the kids at the weekend BUT i got all the important stuff done. Just need to get a litle bit more disciplined and get 100% of antagonists done. Not feeling any tweaks etc yet but they will come if i don't get on it.
two good aerocap sessions ( for good read BORING!) definetly fitting more higher grades in during the workouts. Managed upto 40mins in one go on the autobelays and it feels like the technique pointers i was given are coming together.
Tried the BM2000 at work. Whilst i wasn't anywhere near adding weight it was a whole lot easier than my home board, which is quite common. Again the session didn't feel all that hard, but my fingers feel worked today. Noticeably weaker in half crimp than drag - no surprise as i try to open hand most things.
Had an AMAZING session at the Depot. I suppose it's OK if you like your boulderig centres modern, clean, mahoosive, with a huge range of holds and problems that all seem to be really good quality, with a variety of angles. I will grudgingly admit it just edges out the bouldering at work I had a great session. Not too focussed as i was a bit like a kid in a sweet shop. The red circuit (V3-5) seemed to be where i got stuck on the odd steep problem. Nearly got a yellow (V6-8) and got two purples (V5-7) one of which was an amazing mantel followed by an all points off sideways dyno. Not my style at all but got the dyno first go after a few goes on the mantel. Well chuffed.
Had a go on the ciurcuit board after. That's massive too with grades up to 8a+ that i saw. Fell off the last move of the 7a on the on-sight as i got my hands the wrong way round. I didn't feel pumped at all. Maybe the aero cap is working
This weeks goals are same as above.
STG's
I'm not setting indoor route targets as its training not performance and while I'm on aero cap it may get worse.
Bringing in an cap in Feb then an pow in March for a small first cycle before Easter.
Mtg
Chulilla at Easter - 7a+/b on sight. Re-assess where I'm at then before assembling next training cycle to peak end of summer. 12% bf or lower.
Post edited at 06:59
In reply to AJM:
Hey AJM, thanks for doing the stats. Yeah it was pretty savage, but it was NYE after all!
M: Core routine warm up followed by general strength circuits.
T: 9km Z1/2 (poor discipline with the HR here).
W: Core routine warm up followed by general strength circuits.
T: 9km Z1, much better HR. All about the nose breathing. Literally got a headache from the fumes, running through the city. Horrible!
F:Rest (pullups & pushups)
S: Rest (pullups & pushups)
S: Core routine warm up followed by general strength circuits.
A good week all in all. Have plans to get out climbing this coming week which will be long overdue... Hopefully I'll remember what to do haha. I'm also off skiing on Thursday so that will interrupt training a little but it's definitely time I learnt how to ski properly...first step on a long journey!
Last week's goals: Five training sessions. tick HR Zone discipline. yep, this is going better Actually go climbing again! (Indoor session). going on Tuesday
STG (this week): 3 workout sessions before leaving for the Alps. 10 leads on Tuesday night, not bothered about standard, just get moving again, get pumped, fall off etc. Some sort of skiing goal - 5 reds in good style?!
Hey AJM, thanks for doing the stats. Yeah it was pretty savage, but it was NYE after all!
M: Core routine warm up followed by general strength circuits.
T: 9km Z1/2 (poor discipline with the HR here).
W: Core routine warm up followed by general strength circuits.
T: 9km Z1, much better HR. All about the nose breathing. Literally got a headache from the fumes, running through the city. Horrible!
F:Rest (pullups & pushups)
S: Rest (pullups & pushups)
S: Core routine warm up followed by general strength circuits.
A good week all in all. Have plans to get out climbing this coming week which will be long overdue... Hopefully I'll remember what to do haha. I'm also off skiing on Thursday so that will interrupt training a little but it's definitely time I learnt how to ski properly...first step on a long journey!
Last week's goals: Five training sessions. tick HR Zone discipline. yep, this is going better Actually go climbing again! (Indoor session). going on Tuesday
STG (this week): 3 workout sessions before leaving for the Alps. 10 leads on Tuesday night, not bothered about standard, just get moving again, get pumped, fall off etc. Some sort of skiing goal - 5 reds in good style?!
In reply to Joyce:
Are you enjoying the Core workouts? I love them.
I feel I need to point out it's by no means MY Core workout, it was actually introduced to me by Creedence late of the fitclub, so it should be his really!
Are you enjoying the Core workouts? I love them.
I feel I need to point out it's by no means MY Core workout, it was actually introduced to me by Creedence late of the fitclub, so it should be his really!
In reply to Dandan:
could I have a copy? Apparently the route I'll be trying in CB relies on getting a good kneebar rest, so rather suspect I need to perk my core up!
could I have a copy? Apparently the route I'll be trying in CB relies on getting a good kneebar rest, so rather suspect I need to perk my core up!
In reply to Joyce:
wondered if your sheddage & bambino cuddling would leave you any time free next week? I'm being abandoned by hubbie 16-23. Circuits are all ok, but it would be really good to get a routes session in.
Nick - same query to you about availability (but without the sheddage/bambino complications!)
wondered if your sheddage & bambino cuddling would leave you any time free next week? I'm being abandoned by hubbie 16-23. Circuits are all ok, but it would be really good to get a routes session in.
Nick - same query to you about availability (but without the sheddage/bambino complications!)
In reply to AJM:
8a+/b version of TeJR? How about some of the longer stuff at Cabezon de Oro? Maybe Superrocinante (8b)??
> And yes, I've been hoping that an 8a+/b version of Tom et je Ris would turn up and rate equally high on my inspirationometer as that would make for a slightly less big and hairy goal but I haven't found one so I'm just going to put it out there and see if it helps motivate me for the big picture!
8a+/b version of TeJR? How about some of the longer stuff at Cabezon de Oro? Maybe Superrocinante (8b)??
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM, another quiet week but another gradual improvement in the elbows!
1 core workout, I went back to week 9/10 as week 10/10 is nails, but I completed all reps on week 9 so I'm not doing as bad as I thought!
I also did a leg/hip stretching session, I have been reading my gymnastic/bodyweight exercise book again and it seemed like my lower body flexibility is something I could try and improve on while posing absolutely no risk to my elbows. Here's a question for you, I've always been notoriously inflexible, but I've realised that when I try and touch my toes, it's not my hamstrings that hurt, its the top of my calves. If I bend my knees a tiny bit and really concentrate on relaxing my calves, I can actually stretch my hamstrings a lot further, any clues what that is all about?
I had some encouraging progress on Fri/Sat/Sun too, each day I did a little bit of manual work, fixing drainpipes, trimming up some branches, moving some small slabs and shifting some logs, each day my elbows felt well worked and little sore, getting more sore towards the evening, making me think I had slightly overdone it. Then each morning I would wake up and the elbows would feel better than the previous day, so today (Monday) they feel great!
It's nice to finally have a consistent, positive result and it's also nice to get a good result from actually doing something instead of just resting.
I trimmed up some branches for firewood a couple of weeks ago, not a hugely taxing job, but then did the same thing this Saturday and the difference in what I could do pain-free was significant, a real noticeable improvement.
I might go for my first climb this coming Saturday, I'll barely use my arms, staying on slabby walls, but it will be good to give it a try.
> Dandan82 - fingers crossed for your rehab!
Thanks AJM, another quiet week but another gradual improvement in the elbows!
1 core workout, I went back to week 9/10 as week 10/10 is nails, but I completed all reps on week 9 so I'm not doing as bad as I thought!
I also did a leg/hip stretching session, I have been reading my gymnastic/bodyweight exercise book again and it seemed like my lower body flexibility is something I could try and improve on while posing absolutely no risk to my elbows. Here's a question for you, I've always been notoriously inflexible, but I've realised that when I try and touch my toes, it's not my hamstrings that hurt, its the top of my calves. If I bend my knees a tiny bit and really concentrate on relaxing my calves, I can actually stretch my hamstrings a lot further, any clues what that is all about?
I had some encouraging progress on Fri/Sat/Sun too, each day I did a little bit of manual work, fixing drainpipes, trimming up some branches, moving some small slabs and shifting some logs, each day my elbows felt well worked and little sore, getting more sore towards the evening, making me think I had slightly overdone it. Then each morning I would wake up and the elbows would feel better than the previous day, so today (Monday) they feel great!
It's nice to finally have a consistent, positive result and it's also nice to get a good result from actually doing something instead of just resting.
I trimmed up some branches for firewood a couple of weeks ago, not a hugely taxing job, but then did the same thing this Saturday and the difference in what I could do pain-free was significant, a real noticeable improvement.
I might go for my first climb this coming Saturday, I'll barely use my arms, staying on slabby walls, but it will be good to give it a try.
3
In reply to hms:
Of course:
https://www.necc.mass.edu/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/ath-swissball.pdf
link to pdf download
> could I have a copy? Apparently the route I'll be trying in CB relies on getting a good kneebar rest, so rather suspect I need to perk my core up!
Of course:
https://www.necc.mass.edu/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/ath-swissball.pdf
link to pdf download
In reply to Ally Smith:
I think having gone out there with the BHAG I shouldn't back down from it quite so quickly!
However it would be good to start looking at some stepping-stone routes at some point to start plotting me a route from here to there - its many years off so the intermediate drool-worthy objectives will be helpful I should think.
I think having gone out there with the BHAG I shouldn't back down from it quite so quickly!
However it would be good to start looking at some stepping-stone routes at some point to start plotting me a route from here to there - its many years off so the intermediate drool-worthy objectives will be helpful I should think.
1
In reply to hms:
Toms suggestion was just to find a kneebar and practise sitting in it, do some reps and whatever.
Toms suggestion was just to find a kneebar and practise sitting in it, do some reps and whatever.
In reply to AJM:
Hi all
STG = 1x swimming and 2x climbing this week. Elbow rehab. Coaching on Thursday.
MTG = 7b by end of Easter France trip (either France or UK)
LTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Decided to make my STG a bit shorter as hopefully that'll give a bit more focus.
A 2 week catch up from me after Tenerife, rather than detail every day I’ll just do the highlights such as they are.
- managed to onsight 2 6cs (La placa paranoia & No hay peida pa' los godos) and 1 6b+ (La diosa Tara), Came close to another couple of 6b+ as well and a 6c+.
- had 3 goes on a brilliant 7a+ in Guaria (Haceros inoxidables) and came close but no cigar. Ultimately the elbows needed a day or 2s rest after that so didn't redpoint it again.
- got on a couple of 7as which were also good
- most importantly had a good time in the winter sun with friends and some nice new crags. Onsighted lots of stuff 6b & below. Would definitely recommend Tenerife as a winter destination, it was pretty cheap, the weather was great, the crags were nice and it was even warm enough to swim in the sea on new years day. Best crag was Guaria although you need a cloudy day to go there as its south facing and very hot.
Elbows did better than feared and although I didn't get any 7s ticked I was pleased to still be onsighting 6cs after the best part of 2 months off. The 7a+ felt achievable but maybe only at the risk of breaking myself so decided discretion was the better part of valour. If I can get (& stay) healthy then goals for this year definitely feel achievable.
Looking forward aim is to take it easy on climbing in Jan, do more swimming and hopefully heal elbows up completely. Can then try and start training again from Feb. I also have a coaching session on Thursday so will see how that goes. Next trip is Easter so actually only 10 weeks or so.
Hi all
STG = 1x swimming and 2x climbing this week. Elbow rehab. Coaching on Thursday.
MTG = 7b by end of Easter France trip (either France or UK)
LTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Decided to make my STG a bit shorter as hopefully that'll give a bit more focus.
A 2 week catch up from me after Tenerife, rather than detail every day I’ll just do the highlights such as they are.
- managed to onsight 2 6cs (La placa paranoia & No hay peida pa' los godos) and 1 6b+ (La diosa Tara), Came close to another couple of 6b+ as well and a 6c+.
- had 3 goes on a brilliant 7a+ in Guaria (Haceros inoxidables) and came close but no cigar. Ultimately the elbows needed a day or 2s rest after that so didn't redpoint it again.
- got on a couple of 7as which were also good
- most importantly had a good time in the winter sun with friends and some nice new crags. Onsighted lots of stuff 6b & below. Would definitely recommend Tenerife as a winter destination, it was pretty cheap, the weather was great, the crags were nice and it was even warm enough to swim in the sea on new years day. Best crag was Guaria although you need a cloudy day to go there as its south facing and very hot.
Elbows did better than feared and although I didn't get any 7s ticked I was pleased to still be onsighting 6cs after the best part of 2 months off. The 7a+ felt achievable but maybe only at the risk of breaking myself so decided discretion was the better part of valour. If I can get (& stay) healthy then goals for this year definitely feel achievable.
Looking forward aim is to take it easy on climbing in Jan, do more swimming and hopefully heal elbows up completely. Can then try and start training again from Feb. I also have a coaching session on Thursday so will see how that goes. Next trip is Easter so actually only 10 weeks or so.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers - it remains to be seen if I start having trouble getting through airport security....
Bit of a lame week, but perked up a bit with an impromptu trip to the Cairngorms at the weekend.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Rest
Thu - Rest
Fri - Was offered a lift up to the Cairngorms so took advantage of it.
Sat - Walk from Loch Morlich over to Helm's Lum and back to the Ski Centre. 13km/1000m ascent. Didn't weigh my pack but probably < 10kg.
Sun - Walk from Ski Centre over to Coire an Lochain and back. oStensibly to take some photos but visibility was quite poor. 9km/900m ascent.
STG
Get out for a run during the week and do at least 2 strength sessions/rehab.
> planetmarshall - from what little I know of hands, I'm not sure thats how they normally look! Hope the rehab is going well.
Cheers - it remains to be seen if I start having trouble getting through airport security....
Bit of a lame week, but perked up a bit with an impromptu trip to the Cairngorms at the weekend.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Rest
Thu - Rest
Fri - Was offered a lift up to the Cairngorms so took advantage of it.
Sat - Walk from Loch Morlich over to Helm's Lum and back to the Ski Centre. 13km/1000m ascent. Didn't weigh my pack but probably < 10kg.
Sun - Walk from Ski Centre over to Coire an Lochain and back. oStensibly to take some photos but visibility was quite poor. 9km/900m ascent.
STG
Get out for a run during the week and do at least 2 strength sessions/rehab.
In reply to AJM:
yep, and that's the bit I struggle on. They do exist at indoor walls I'm sure, but are pretty rare beasties at the moment. Can't use the bottom of the campus board - don't remember any of the ones in Bristol walls being the right shape to allow this. So it's a case of looking for volumes...
yep, and that's the bit I struggle on. They do exist at indoor walls I'm sure, but are pretty rare beasties at the moment. Can't use the bottom of the campus board - don't remember any of the ones in Bristol walls being the right shape to allow this. So it's a case of looking for volumes...
In reply to AJM:
This is pretty famous and looks a great position. Not an easy crag IIRC and in full sun
Dinosaure (8a+)#overview
This is pretty famous and looks a great position. Not an easy crag IIRC and in full sun
Dinosaure (8a+)#overview
1
In reply to Tyler:
In the same vein - we went up to Coma Closa one evening after climbing at Finestra - this looks boss No match for climb id:290547 (also known as Meconi in the local topo?)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/spikeyhelen/11008825053
I'm quite psyched for this...
...and by extension, BHAG'ing TeJR
In the same vein - we went up to Coma Closa one evening after climbing at Finestra - this looks boss No match for climb id:290547 (also known as Meconi in the local topo?)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/spikeyhelen/11008825053
I'm quite psyched for this...
...and by extension, BHAG'ing TeJR
In reply to hms:
Most sets we have something, albeit not usually hands off.
In reply to Tyler:
Yes a very cool line although tough on conditions I think, either its too hot or its the time of year when its vulnerable to seepage. Cool crag though!
In reply to Ally Smith:
I feel a logbook wishlist coming on. Although I don't think you can claim it as a BHAG - you could probably do it this year!
Most sets we have something, albeit not usually hands off.
In reply to Tyler:
Yes a very cool line although tough on conditions I think, either its too hot or its the time of year when its vulnerable to seepage. Cool crag though!
In reply to Ally Smith:
I feel a logbook wishlist coming on. Although I don't think you can claim it as a BHAG - you could probably do it this year!
In reply to hms:
Morning Camper,
The arrival of the bambino has put going climbing at a proper wall on hold for a couple of months (hence building one in the shed) so, unfortunately, I can't come out and play next week. After half term, however...
Joyce
Morning Camper,
The arrival of the bambino has put going climbing at a proper wall on hold for a couple of months (hence building one in the shed) so, unfortunately, I can't come out and play next week. After half term, however...
Joyce
In reply to hms:
> I disliked that 7b with a vengence - floundered up to the main lip, clip-to-clip, then failed utterly on the huge move from the angular block, which seemed to have nothing much to hold on it and rubbish feet!
Probably just played to my strengths then. A bit of height helps on the big move, and I'm normally ok when I know I'm going to a good hold (which this one is).> Not tempted to try the sole 7b after I saw someone on it - there is a jump move before the 2nd clip!!
I didn't find a jump that low down! The only jump was by the 5th clip. Quite nice route actually, not that I managed to do the whole lot in one.> Nick - same query to you about availability
I could plan for a late afternoon/evening next week, except Tuesday. Which day suits you? In reply to hms:
Actually, Monday isn't good either. I'm supposed to be giving blood in the afternoon so it's probably best not to commit to climbing straight after.
Actually, Monday isn't good either. I'm supposed to be giving blood in the afternoon so it's probably best not to commit to climbing straight after.
In reply to Nick Russell:
er no, probably not. I used to have a lie a bit about the fact I was going to cycle 5 miles home afterwards! I'll email you.
er no, probably not. I used to have a lie a bit about the fact I was going to cycle 5 miles home afterwards! I'll email you.
In reply to AJM:
UKC massive. I'm having a bit of shoulder trouble this week. Never had any shoulder problems before so this is new to me - normally its my elbows causing trouble. Any thoughts or links to good websites etc?
It originally started at some time over xmas and I think was probably from doing pressups rather than climbing, but has now started bothering me while climbing too, on some move types (I'm not sure exactly what yet but i think it's more prevalent when I have a wide left arm.
The pain is sort of on the top of the shoulder in the middle.
Thanks!
UKC massive. I'm having a bit of shoulder trouble this week. Never had any shoulder problems before so this is new to me - normally its my elbows causing trouble. Any thoughts or links to good websites etc?
It originally started at some time over xmas and I think was probably from doing pressups rather than climbing, but has now started bothering me while climbing too, on some move types (I'm not sure exactly what yet but i think it's more prevalent when I have a wide left arm.
The pain is sort of on the top of the shoulder in the middle.
Thanks!
In reply to AJM:
Not much. I managed to do some training in the gym on Monday, and cycled to and from work on Tuesday, but that laid me low again and I was off work Wed. Went for a short hike on Sunday, and that was the sum total of my week
> hokkyokusei - oof sounds like a nasty bug. Any improvements?
Not much. I managed to do some training in the gym on Monday, and cycled to and from work on Tuesday, but that laid me low again and I was off work Wed. Went for a short hike on Sunday, and that was the sum total of my week
In reply to Si dH:
Does it mainly hurt at full extension? Could be some sort of impingement perhaps? I hurt my shoulder in 2014 and things like pulling out slack when belaying hurt as I reached the limit of my reach.
Does it mainly hurt at full extension? Could be some sort of impingement perhaps? I hurt my shoulder in 2014 and things like pulling out slack when belaying hurt as I reached the limit of my reach.
1
In reply to Si dH:
I was going to guess at possible impingement as AJM has said, might be worth a google to see if symptoms match up with your issue.
I was going to guess at possible impingement as AJM has said, might be worth a google to see if symptoms match up with your issue.
In reply to AJM:
Hi, can I play please?
I've been vaguely trying to get better at this climbing malarkey, mostly unsuccessfully. A few months abroad recently and unable to climb regularly seems to have obliterated the progress I made over the previous year or so. The main problems are my shoddy foot-work (especially on anything vertical or slabby), my seriously massive wussiness, and the fact that I'm a bit heavier than I would prefer to be at the moment. Nick, who you guys know, pointed out that imposing some more structure on my efforts to improve would help a lot, and suggested for the umpteenth time that maybe posting here would help with that. This time I've decided to buy it, so here I am! I occasionally stalk his posts / lurk a bit, so I know roughly what you lot get up to and am pretty intimidated; I hope I'm not too off-the-scale rubbish to join in.
By way of a small introduction: I'm 26, female. Grew up doing competitive swimming (though haven't raced since 2012), so I'd like to think I have a decentish "base level" of fitness and strength, some rudimentary understanding of how training ought to work, and not too much aversion to putting some effort in. Figuring out how to apply any of that to climbing is easier said than done though, I'm finding. I don't swim much any more, but I climb a bit, sometimes do some yoga, and am a very fickle, fair-weather runner. I quite like picking up heavy (for me) stuff in the gym and throwing it around, too, but I've found weights hard to combine with climbing in a way that allows for progress in both, and stagnation is never very motivating. My best sport climbs are around 6c if you accept some very generous grading; more realistically, I'm always very happy and surprised to make it up a 6a if leading outdoors. I tend to find indoor climbs (and steep stuff) vastly easier at the "equivalent" grade. Trad is terrifying, probably the less said about that the better.
Any advice on becoming less rubbish and scared is always welcome.
Here's what I did last week:
Monday - nothing, still getting over a cold
Tuesday - nothing, cold excuse probably not valid any more
Wednesday - bouldering at TCA, trying out some of the yellow (I think?) circuit. Then managed to flash a 6A+ (probably overgraded), and worked on a 6B that definitely wasn't happening
Thursday - nothing
Friday - trampolining. Hadn't done this for a few months, but had a go at (assisted) forward somersaults for the first time since I was about 12. Apparently still got the tendency to come out of them twisting sideways as though for a tumbleturn in the pool
Saturday - climbing at UCR. Bit of a rubbish session in which I dogged virtually everything except my warm-ups. Got scared and gave up on 6a+s that I'd have breezed up six months ago
Sunday - short but hardish core session (inc lunges, squats, planks, pull ups, press ups, hanging leg raises, back hypers)
Hi, can I play please?
I've been vaguely trying to get better at this climbing malarkey, mostly unsuccessfully. A few months abroad recently and unable to climb regularly seems to have obliterated the progress I made over the previous year or so. The main problems are my shoddy foot-work (especially on anything vertical or slabby), my seriously massive wussiness, and the fact that I'm a bit heavier than I would prefer to be at the moment. Nick, who you guys know, pointed out that imposing some more structure on my efforts to improve would help a lot, and suggested for the umpteenth time that maybe posting here would help with that. This time I've decided to buy it, so here I am! I occasionally stalk his posts / lurk a bit, so I know roughly what you lot get up to and am pretty intimidated; I hope I'm not too off-the-scale rubbish to join in.
By way of a small introduction: I'm 26, female. Grew up doing competitive swimming (though haven't raced since 2012), so I'd like to think I have a decentish "base level" of fitness and strength, some rudimentary understanding of how training ought to work, and not too much aversion to putting some effort in. Figuring out how to apply any of that to climbing is easier said than done though, I'm finding. I don't swim much any more, but I climb a bit, sometimes do some yoga, and am a very fickle, fair-weather runner. I quite like picking up heavy (for me) stuff in the gym and throwing it around, too, but I've found weights hard to combine with climbing in a way that allows for progress in both, and stagnation is never very motivating. My best sport climbs are around 6c if you accept some very generous grading; more realistically, I'm always very happy and surprised to make it up a 6a if leading outdoors. I tend to find indoor climbs (and steep stuff) vastly easier at the "equivalent" grade. Trad is terrifying, probably the less said about that the better.
Any advice on becoming less rubbish and scared is always welcome.
Here's what I did last week:
Monday - nothing, still getting over a cold
Tuesday - nothing, cold excuse probably not valid any more
Wednesday - bouldering at TCA, trying out some of the yellow (I think?) circuit. Then managed to flash a 6A+ (probably overgraded), and worked on a 6B that definitely wasn't happening
Thursday - nothing
Friday - trampolining. Hadn't done this for a few months, but had a go at (assisted) forward somersaults for the first time since I was about 12. Apparently still got the tendency to come out of them twisting sideways as though for a tumbleturn in the pool
Saturday - climbing at UCR. Bit of a rubbish session in which I dogged virtually everything except my warm-ups. Got scared and gave up on 6a+s that I'd have breezed up six months ago
Sunday - short but hardish core session (inc lunges, squats, planks, pull ups, press ups, hanging leg raises, back hypers)
2
In reply to Si dH:
I'm definitely not an expert and able to diagnose your shoulder, but, I had some shoulder discomfort in early December (top of shoulder, center), and used some theraband exercises daily to work on antagonistics and shoulder stability. It's helped alleviate my issues, just need the discipline to keep it up and avoid future problems.
Have a look at this article for more info.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=119
> UKC massive. I'm having a bit of shoulder trouble this week. Never had any shoulder problems before so this is new to me - normally its my elbows causing trouble. Any thoughts or links to good websites etc?
I'm definitely not an expert and able to diagnose your shoulder, but, I had some shoulder discomfort in early December (top of shoulder, center), and used some theraband exercises daily to work on antagonistics and shoulder stability. It's helped alleviate my issues, just need the discipline to keep it up and avoid future problems.
Have a look at this article for more info.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=119
In reply to robbiebrookie:
Would second what Robin said, I try and do the theraband exercises 3 times a week and 2 or 3 times in the days when I'm doing them. Seems to keep it under control but if I miss a couple of sets the shoulder does start to grumble.
Would second what Robin said, I try and do the theraband exercises 3 times a week and 2 or 3 times in the days when I'm doing them. Seems to keep it under control but if I miss a couple of sets the shoulder does start to grumble.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers AJM.
Not a very good mix this last week and I suffered for it. Mostly bike work which, although is needed, has left me a bit un-satisfied with a lack of bouldering and/or BJJ training. Will mix it up a bit more this week. Still, good training none-the-less and feeling strong for my first race in Feb.
Starting to pencil in some goals. Not here yet as these might change and my focus is still very much on having a stronger mindset with more clarity and a focus on mixing it up / fun.
Thoughts from this week:
I really get tons of satisfaction from training strength and skill based activities such as bouldering and BJJ, even weight training. But I can't help but take part in some XC races again this year on the bike because they are just so much fun. I can't juggle all three activities without really suffering for it in terms of energy, ability and time so something will have to give especially with running my own business as well. I'll see.
M: Rest
T: 1.5hrs 18 miles, hill reps on mountain bike.
W: 1hr steady spin on the bike, flushing the legs out. Rest.
T: 1hr bike on turbo, sweetspot intervals.
F: Rest
S: 25 mins warmup on turbo. Pullups, bicep curls and shrugs.
S: Turbo session. 10 second starts into 4 mins sweetspot. Repeated 6 times.
Plus an hour walking the dog most days, longer at the weekend.
Current weight: about 143 lbs
Cheers AJM.
Not a very good mix this last week and I suffered for it. Mostly bike work which, although is needed, has left me a bit un-satisfied with a lack of bouldering and/or BJJ training. Will mix it up a bit more this week. Still, good training none-the-less and feeling strong for my first race in Feb.
Starting to pencil in some goals. Not here yet as these might change and my focus is still very much on having a stronger mindset with more clarity and a focus on mixing it up / fun.
Thoughts from this week:
I really get tons of satisfaction from training strength and skill based activities such as bouldering and BJJ, even weight training. But I can't help but take part in some XC races again this year on the bike because they are just so much fun. I can't juggle all three activities without really suffering for it in terms of energy, ability and time so something will have to give especially with running my own business as well. I'll see.
M: Rest
T: 1.5hrs 18 miles, hill reps on mountain bike.
W: 1hr steady spin on the bike, flushing the legs out. Rest.
T: 1hr bike on turbo, sweetspot intervals.
F: Rest
S: 25 mins warmup on turbo. Pullups, bicep curls and shrugs.
S: Turbo session. 10 second starts into 4 mins sweetspot. Repeated 6 times.
Plus an hour walking the dog most days, longer at the weekend.
Current weight: about 143 lbs
In reply to Ian Bell:
Thanks guys.
It's not aggravated by extending the arm as such, I've realised it is definitely worst when my shoulder is rolled forwards/inwards and then weighted.
More research needed...
Thanks guys.
It's not aggravated by extending the arm as such, I've realised it is definitely worst when my shoulder is rolled forwards/inwards and then weighted.
More research needed...
In reply to Si dH:
Leah Crane told me not to roll my shoulders forward, especially in climbing but in pretty much all training too; there is never really any requirement to roll the shoulders forward and its a very weak position, it caused her no end of issues from being imbalanced and hunching forward. Maybe some investigation of your posture and shoulder position during climbing and exercise would help things?
Leah Crane told me not to roll my shoulders forward, especially in climbing but in pretty much all training too; there is never really any requirement to roll the shoulders forward and its a very weak position, it caused her no end of issues from being imbalanced and hunching forward. Maybe some investigation of your posture and shoulder position during climbing and exercise would help things?
Post edited at 22:49
In reply to AJM:
Rather belated and short update due to lack of internet access. Finally got to Scotland on Friday and things have been going great
M-T - Faff, sort tax return, pack kit, faff some more, pack more kit.
F - drive to Scotland.
S - Crypt Route (winter) (V 6)
S - Evening Citizen (V 7)
M - Lost The Place (V 6)
T - Cutlass (VI 7)
Rather belated and short update due to lack of internet access. Finally got to Scotland on Friday and things have been going great
M-T - Faff, sort tax return, pack kit, faff some more, pack more kit.
F - drive to Scotland.
S - Crypt Route (winter) (V 6)
S - Evening Citizen (V 7)
M - Lost The Place (V 6)
T - Cutlass (VI 7)
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing the stats again Andy:
M: am - discovered our fridge freezer was broken - dam! 5M in 33:56, pm - 6/7M in 45:03
Tu: am - 5M in 34:24, pm - road session 5x5min off 90seconds jog. Felt pretty good but hamstrings tight. 10/11M
W: lunchtime - 9M easy in 62:46, got the new fridge freezer delivered
Th: am - 5/6M easy in 40:15
F: pm - 4/5M easy in 31:02
Sa: 15mins jog + strides
Su: pm - County XC Champs. First target race of the winter. Weather was ok and course was very wet but had lots of concrete paths to run across which wasn't ideal whilst wearing spikes. Race didn't go out very quick so I went to the front (unheard off!) and sure enough a group of 5 of us got away. My training partner put in a surge after 2 miles which I didn't go with but the others did. This played into my hands as over the next 2 miles I slowly worked my way past them so that after 2 of the 3 laps I was only 20m behind my training partner in 1st. For the rest of the lap the gap yo-yo'e until with about half a mile to go I finally caught him. Unfortunately at this point he ha other ideas and picked it up again and I couldn't stay with him. End result: 2nd, 12K in 40:08, 8 seconds off the win. At least I knew he'd tried hard as he was throwing up in a bush afterwards!!! 12/13M total
Total: ~60M total and good to pick up a county medal at the weekend. Need to hold form now for the south of england champs in a couple of weeks time.
Thanks for doing the stats again Andy:
M: am - discovered our fridge freezer was broken - dam! 5M in 33:56, pm - 6/7M in 45:03
Tu: am - 5M in 34:24, pm - road session 5x5min off 90seconds jog. Felt pretty good but hamstrings tight. 10/11M
W: lunchtime - 9M easy in 62:46, got the new fridge freezer delivered
Th: am - 5/6M easy in 40:15
F: pm - 4/5M easy in 31:02
Sa: 15mins jog + strides
Su: pm - County XC Champs. First target race of the winter. Weather was ok and course was very wet but had lots of concrete paths to run across which wasn't ideal whilst wearing spikes. Race didn't go out very quick so I went to the front (unheard off!) and sure enough a group of 5 of us got away. My training partner put in a surge after 2 miles which I didn't go with but the others did. This played into my hands as over the next 2 miles I slowly worked my way past them so that after 2 of the 3 laps I was only 20m behind my training partner in 1st. For the rest of the lap the gap yo-yo'e until with about half a mile to go I finally caught him. Unfortunately at this point he ha other ideas and picked it up again and I couldn't stay with him. End result: 2nd, 12K in 40:08, 8 seconds off the win. At least I knew he'd tried hard as he was throwing up in a bush afterwards!!! 12/13M total
Total: ~60M total and good to pick up a county medal at the weekend. Need to hold form now for the south of england champs in a couple of weeks time.
In reply to AJM: Hi all thanks Andy-feel like I am ticking over rather than improving but a) life is hectic and b)thts not strictly true-just done a fingerboard and my fingers seem quite strong 9ie held smallest hold four finger hold on beastmaker 200 for long 5secs open handed)-think I am suffering with too much sitting down leaving me quite stiff, dashing through sessions and distinct lack of technique.
Anyway-
M-nothing work then straight to college.
T-quick TCA session ticked another slopey yellow+couple I had not tried.
W-Yoga and lights weights
T-Quick TCA session-cant remember
F-Worked late nothing
S-Run, aprox 5miles, flat-yoga
Su-TCA session, bit less rushed but not much, ticked a couple more yellows.
This week aim to do something every day except Monday, which just aint possible bar dog walking and a few sun salutations. Sat here today would like to try and get out at the weekend but not sure if that will happen. Long to touch rock.
Anyway-
M-nothing work then straight to college.
T-quick TCA session ticked another slopey yellow+couple I had not tried.
W-Yoga and lights weights
T-Quick TCA session-cant remember
F-Worked late nothing
S-Run, aprox 5miles, flat-yoga
Su-TCA session, bit less rushed but not much, ticked a couple more yellows.
This week aim to do something every day except Monday, which just aint possible bar dog walking and a few sun salutations. Sat here today would like to try and get out at the weekend but not sure if that will happen. Long to touch rock.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. Yes, very helpful and will get new goals up this week. Sorry this is a late post and a week full of work.
M - rest
T - Boulder Brookes - not hugely inspiring
W -F rest/work
S - Boulder Wirksworth WBL
S - Boulder Climbing Unit (WBL 200 points, then reds)
Thanks Andy. Yes, very helpful and will get new goals up this week. Sorry this is a late post and a week full of work.
M - rest
T - Boulder Brookes - not hugely inspiring
W -F rest/work
S - Boulder Wirksworth WBL
S - Boulder Climbing Unit (WBL 200 points, then reds)
In reply to AJM:
I really did think I'd posted up. Sorry. Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Keep doing some climbing
Weight - 12st 12lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 200 dish tucks
Very lazy week. Did some dish tucks just now, so that I don't post an empty week. So lazy. Planning to do some indoor routes tomorrow.
I really did think I'd posted up. Sorry. Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Keep doing some climbing
Weight - 12st 12lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 200 dish tucks
Very lazy week. Did some dish tucks just now, so that I don't post an empty week. So lazy. Planning to do some indoor routes tomorrow.
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