UKC

We recently featured a video of Luzan Matyas completing an indoor replica of the Frankenjura 9a Action Directe at his local wall in Romania. The replica attracted questions regarding Luzan's motivation and the finer details of his creation, so we got in touch with the man himself to find out more...

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In reply to UKC Articles:
I like his ethics about not causing polish and wear on a route.

In reply to UKC Articles:

It's lucky his dream route isn't Chilam Balam...

In reply to UKC Articles:

I couldn't quite work it out... in the video he appeared to have sent the replica route clean. If so the real thing is kind of a formality that must be done.

I wonder how he is planning on staying in form until the spring to be able to tick the real thing?

In reply to UKC Articles:

Potential niche market for Action Direct hold kits?

In reply to Brendan:


LOL.

But in seriousness I suppose even on really long routes one could build a replica of the crux sequence and get that completely dialled before attempting the route.

In reply to petellis:

I wouldn't trivialize the real thing as a mere formality. Its the end goal: a route far harder than he's ever climbed before. One big difference is that it has to be done with a rope. There will also be a time window like he might only be there a week or two. It will be conditions dependent etc. and if its still close to his limit as I'm sure it will be then a big mental challenge too.

In terms of staying on form it would have been interesting to know what other training the guy does and how that fits in with his sessions on the model. But like anyone else I'm sure he'll keep trying to get stronger in the meantime.

In reply to stp:


I think that's something most people understimate. It's one thing to climb something at or beyond your limit that's on your local crag. Quite another to do that on a crag far away or in another country. The time investment is a huge factor.