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Pembrokeshire climbing

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MSY90 12 Jan 2016
Hi there, hope I'm posting on the right section.

I am off to Pembrokeshire this summer and am looking to do some easy climbing routes whilst down there

I am looking to buy a guidebook to look through but after a quick internet search it seems there are numerous out there covering several different areas (north, east, west etc), and so I was looking for a bit of advice for where was best to go to get some good but easy graded routes sea cliff climbing, and I will buy the book accordingly

Thanks
Rob
 Jon Stewart 12 Jan 2016
In reply to MSY90:

The best easy stuff is in North Pembroke, on the delightful sandstone slabs near St. Davids.
 The Pylon King 12 Jan 2016
In reply to MSY90:

Just out now, you wont get a better book than this:

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/mid-south-wales/pembroke-rock/
 Kafoozalem 13 Jan 2016
In reply to Urgles:

Looks ace Mark.
 PaulTanton 13 Jan 2016
In reply to MSY90:
For an overall guide the Rock Fax is ok but take care, I've found a few errors in the approach descriptions.
Is the CC select guide out yet? If it is that will be your best bet.
Good luck and happy climbing. I think Pembroke has some of the best climbing in the UK
 Rog Wilko 13 Jan 2016
In reply to MSY90:

It depends what you mean by easy. There isn't a very large proportion of Pembroke climbs below VS, if that's what you mean by easy.
I agree with the N Pembroke suggestion. For S Pembroke the area just west of Tenby, around Penally Firing Range is quite good for the sub-VS grades. If you have no sea-cliff experience it can be a bit daunting at first, so Giltar slabs which is easy to access and inspect before you ab down would be a great first sea cliff experience. This is the Vol 5 of the current CC series, entitled Pembroke Stackpole & Lydstep.
The most justly popular crag in S Pembroke for sub VS climbing is undoubtedly Saddle Head which is in the Vol 4 Range East (Vol 3 also confusingly called Range East). Saddle Head gets busy, but there are lots of really good routes to go around.
If by easy you mean sub-E-grade there's a lot more to go at. The Range East Vol 3 has a good spread of VS & HVS routes, with places like Crystal Slabs, Crickmail Point coming to mind.
 Martin Bennett 13 Jan 2016
In reply to MSY90:

Hi - I have a set of the definitive Climbers Club guides from 1995, including the 1998 supplement. I think (?) most of the easier climbing will be found in these. They belonged to a friend who has no further use of them and proceeds will go to his charity of choice. They're in good condition with the usual underlines and annotations. If you'd like them I'd say a fiver plus postage might be fair - £9.00 inclusive?
1
In reply to PaulTanton:

> For an overall guide the Rock Fax is ok but take care, I've found a few errors in the approach descriptions.

Hi Paul

I'd love to know those errors if you have them to hand. Email me direct on alan [at] rockfax.com

To OP:

There is also the Rockfax App to consider if you are into Apps and have an iOS phone. You can buy separate crags in that it you want to test the water and keep the costs down. http://www.rockfax.com/publications/rockfax-app/

Alan
 Ramblin dave 13 Jan 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> The best easy stuff is in North Pembroke, on the delightful sandstone slabs near St. Davids.

It's worth getting the definitive for that area, as there also a few bits of really excellent (and slightly more adventurous) low grade stuff on the gabbro crags that aren't in the Rockfax.
 Mike Highbury 13 Jan 2016
In reply to Martin Bennett:
> Hi - I have a set of the definitive Climbers Club guides from 1995, including the 1998 supplement....

Sell or buy them if you wish but the more recent CC guides or the selected version are an enormous improvement in scope and accuracy so one would be better giving the £5 or so directly to the JNF or other charity of your choice.
 Mike Highbury 13 Jan 2016
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
>Email me direct on alan [at] rockfax.com

Come on Alan, where's the fun in that?
1
In reply to Martin Bennett:

Hi, did he take you up on your offer? If not I'm interested. Moving to Pembrokeshire at the end of March.
cheers
Maria.
 Martin Bennett 25 Jan 2016
In reply to Maria Bechaalani:

Hello Maria - no, I still have the (0s Pembroke Guide book set. I'll email you via the forum.

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