UKC

Cogne route conditions

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 BStar 14 Jan 2016
I'm off to Cogne tomorrow, first climb hoping to be on the Saturday morning.

If there is anyone on here out there at the moment would you like to share how things are at the moment. I've been on the obvious websites but I would like to know a bit more about what routes people are doing or what routes people aren't doing given the avalanche risk.

Any advice for a first ice route at about WI3 that currently in condition?

Thanks
 CurlyStevo 15 Jan 2016
In reply to BStar:
My recommendation is don't get too carried away on the first day, I'm guessing you are there for a good few days. I completely knackered my calves for several days after pushing too hard the first day I was there. Also bare in mind the route lengths in the guide are sometimes either out, or they are vertical ascent and also the routes will have more sustained ice pitches than the UK. We got on a 180 metre ice route and it probably had about 240 metres of climbing on it with a 50 metre grade I/II approach. Of the 240 metres probably 180 metres was proper graded ice.

Anyway..... Have fun I think you'll find lots to do!
Post edited at 08:10
 gear boy 15 Jan 2016
In reply to BStar:
For anyone heading to Cogne hotel la barme run an ice book which updates regularly. for instance you can see jagged globe have updated recently.
http://www.iceclimbingcogne.com/

So if you are there pop in and update , have a drink etc.
 CurlyStevo 15 Jan 2016
In reply to BStar:
Pattinaggio Artistico is good worth 2 stars IMO. I did it in similar conditions to the log book entry gear boy linked with the left hand variation on the crux pitch. Don't be surprised if the crux pitch feels about WI3+/4 for about 8 metres or so, its obvious when you get there as the hard bit is leaving the belay. This is the route I did on the first day and ended up over doing it. Also make sure you have the decent wired, the best way is to complete the route and walk off as per the instructions in the UKC log book. We abbed and weren't sure the rope would reach down the free hanging icicle (unformed) harder direct start so ended up reversing the approach which was a right faff. I've been told since the rope does reach direct to the ground from the first bolted belay on the route since (although you might not want to take my second hand word of mouth for it)
Post edited at 08:23

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