UKC

Hopefully if the forecast holds off to Portland for the weekend. Was wondering what are some good areas or routes to head for? Operating in the 6's to 7a. I do have an old guide book from 2005 but i know there's been a lot of new routing in the last 10 years. Have any 3 star gems been unearthed?

In reply to Kemics:

I doubt there are any new three star routes! Since 2005 there have been quite a few new crags unearthed, but nothing of such high quality as already exists.

On the other hand, Ben Stokes and co. have found several three star boulder problems in the last 10 years - check out the Rockfax Dorset bouldering guide.

In reply to Kemics:

It's ON Portland, not in.

In reply to Kemics:

I've been for a wander today and the ground is very soggy with quite a bit of seepage on most cliffs. If you try to go on westside where most of the classics are you will be walking on clay platform soles. The Cuttings is your best bet for which your old guide will be fine although it's worth a look in the logbooks at the lower tier where there are three good, dry, sheltered 6s. The Lost Valley was mostly dry and I would guess Neddyfields would be too, although I didn't get that far - check logbooks for more up to date information on these, there are quite a number of new routes.
As you say the weather is looking good and I'm getting out there.

In reply to Kemics:

Cuttings:
The Cutting Edge (6c+)
The Holy Hand Grenade (7a)
Live by the Sword (7a+)

Coastguard:
Nothing but the Groove (6c+)
Superfly Guy (7a)

Battleship Backcliff:
Buoys will be Buoys (6b+)
No Man is an Island (6c)
Always Have the Edge (6c)
Jurassic Shift (7a)

In reply to johnl:

Hi John,
I'm hoping to get down to Portland for some bolted action this weekend, but the usual bank of partners seems a little shy of the cold. I could do either day (but not both) any chance of joining up for some routes?
Or is there anyone else out there short of a partner for East Coast action - I'll be climbing 5s/low 6s, but happy to belay harder stuff, projects etc.
Cheers,
Ivan

In reply to Kemics:

Buoys will be buoys (6b)
Reptile Smile (6a+)
Slings Shot (5a but do it anyway)
Pregnant Pause (6a+)
The Man Who Never Found Himself (6a+) worth 3 stars not 2 in my book
Consommé (6a+) also worth 3 not 2 stars IMO

In reply to The Ivanator:

Hi Ivan,
There will be a group of us down The Lost Valley, Saturday from 11.00, climbing 4s to 7s, plenty of partners, come and join us.
John.

In reply to johnl:

I'll be there, heard from Adam and Mick who are coming down too, so should be fun.

In reply to johnl:

ah thanks mate that's great advice. I didn't know seepage was a problem *on* portland. So you reckon assuming it stays dry today (forecast still looks good) the cuttings will be climbable and no seeping too badly?

In reply to Kemics:
It's worse than that. Portland is a notoriously unstable venue. Everything from small ledges, small portions of cliff to large portions of cliff and mud slides of huge proportions, this is much more active in winter especially during or soon after very wet periods of weather.

I swear some bits of Swanage are layers of mud and rock intermingled, bits of rock break off and behind you see mud but there was no sign of cracks etc.

Also many of the crags sit on an unstable erroding base.

I'm not saying don't climb in winter, just bare this in mind.

In reply to Kemics:

The Swanage quarries can be a good call in winter, there is some pretty good climbing there actually.

In reply to Kemics:

Seepage isn't usually a problem unless you have just had 2 months of rain. You will have plenty of options of dry rock at The Cuttings. The Bower and Lower Tier should probably provide some good warm-ups if you wish before you hit the harder stuff on the main cliff: The Cuttings

In reply to Kemics:

If you end up at the cuttings ... the corner of Modern Nightmare 7a is really underrated.

On Blacknor - Portland Heights, Turned To Stone and Last Rose of Summer are all good (but so are many of the other routes between Portland and Last Rose))

In reply to johnl:

Hi John,

Would it get a bit crowded if I were to pop down for a climb with you guys too? I live on the island but sadly have nobody around to climb with this weekend.

Haven't really been outside on ropes consistently since the summer when I was climbing 6a/b (and trying to work a 6c!) so probably will also be on 5s/6as.

Cheers,

Connie

In reply to ConstaBern:

I'm sure you'd be very welcome - if we're climbing similar grades I'm happy to team up.
Looks like Mick's opted to do some boring financial bank stuff instead so you can be his replacement (kind of think we may spot the difference though)!

In reply to ConstaBern:

Always room for one more Connie.

In reply to johnl:
Party! 😎

In reply to Kemics:
Apologies for the thread hijack to arrange a climbing meet, a fun time was had in the Lost Valley on Saturday.
In terms of your original request for good routes 6a-7a that are not in the 2005 guide a couple I would recommend are:
Diving for Pearls (6b+) (A Mick Ward route which has been added since the 2012 guide, you can find topos amongst the Coastguard South crag photos on here. It is a fairly conditions dependent sector, best enjoyed after 3pm on dry summer days)
Winter Sun (6a) (A John Leonard route which is in the 2012 guide, a reliable year round option as the name implies)
Both these are worth 2 stars IMO, 3 star climbs not in the 2005 guide are rare beasts indeed.

In reply to The Ivanator:

no worries

we ended up at the cuttings, what a great winter venue. Was a really good day climbing and some quality lines. Was very impressed... although I couldn't work out if I was fatigued or every route is a massive sandbag :P