UKC

Hey
I'm visiting from the Canadian Rockies for next week, and I'd really like to get some Scottish Winter climbs. I'm staying with a friend in Glasgow but looking to get out midweek on some classics.

Any suggestions?

I climbed Tower ridge in the rain years ago and would really like to repeat it in snow.
Aonach Eagach looks good, and I'm thinking of giving CMD Arete a go as a warm up. I may or may not have a care

I got a year of climbing in and navigation course at Glenmore years ago, but perfect Albertan weather has dulled my navigation a bit I reckon. I've done a lot of glacial mountaineering, big ski tours, and alpine climbing. I can just manage WI4, and M5 on bolts.

Also, I have heeps of gear, but not all that certain what to bring seeing as how I have to haul it on the plane. Is a single rope sufficient? Just nuts, or worth hauling a couple cams too? What' the deal with pitons? I assume no go? Is there enough ice for long screws or just short?

I've got Sum'tecs and Nomics, but Nomics seem like overkill unless I can find a partner to hop on some more challenging stuff.

If anyone is keen I'm happy to share Canadian Rockies Beta, and suggestions.

In reply to McT:

http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/winter_rack

http://www.abacusmountainguides.com/blog

In reply to McT:

Hi, I'm afraid that you might be a bit disappointed with the amount of ice present in the Highlands at the moment. It's just be continually cold for quite a while now, and as a result of the lack of freeze/thaw cycles, ice development is quite limited at the moment. Lower level ice may begin to form, but I'm not sure whether it will be climbable in time for your trip.

One of the best resources for what's been climbed is on this site: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/winter.html . I would definitely consider Western Rib on Aonach Mor, which whilst may be a wade to get to, will give you great climbing, of an amenable grade, on long granite ribs, that rely more on frozen turf than ice.

I climbed Tower Ridge today, and whilst it was great fun, it always is, it was slightly tricky due to the amount of unconsolidated snow. Starting early and moving with an alpine approach (quickly and safe enough) is key.

Blog and pictures here: http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/put-the-pedal-to-the-metal-t...

In reply to McT:

single rope is fine assuming you don't need to ab (maybe not a wise assumption) and are climbing as a pair. half ropes are the status quo over here, I rarely see twin ropes used.

gear, lots of nuts and hexes. some people take cams but they are unreliable in iced up cracks and can freeze up. if climbing a mixed route I may take a couple of short/medium screws (about 13-17cm) at most. if climbing an out and out ice route then it all depends on the route and conditions which vary day to day but 22cm screws are generally overkill except for belays. pegs (pitons) fine as a last resort.

as for route suggestions, all depends on conditions! but the best reliable crags close to Glasgow are in glencoe or ben nevis (and the northern cairngorms slightly further away)