UKC

Hello all new to this site, will be going up to Scotland, near fort william end of august, second time climbing outdoors, spend alot of time at local indoor climbing due to lack of hills in Suffolk.

Can anyone recommend any places to climb, single pitch ropes which top ropes can be added to, or mabey sport climbing routes around ben nevis kinda area?

In reply to Tim saville:

Loads of fantastic single pitch trad (much of it top-rope-able) in Glen Nevis, Poldubh Crags. Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis
If you really want bolts, there are some up Glen Nevis too (Steall Hut Crag etc) but it tends to be quite hard, there are a few mid 6's in there though. Otherwise, head down the road toward Mallaig, and find Ranochan or Arisaig Black Rock, where there is a good spread of sport grades.
Bring midge defenses, August is about the worst month. Pray for wind.
Enjoy the highlands!

In reply to Dr Toph:

Cheers, don't have any trad equipment, I know that Scotland is all about trad climbing, however never got round to buying any, so top ropes and sport climbing is my only options.

Cheers for suggested places, ill give them a google and have a look, are they easily accessible or are they a park and walk couple of hours sort deal?

In reply to Tim saville:

All Scottish sport crags are fairly accessible, less than an hour's walk and often much less, partly because the guidelines discourage bolting more remote crags.

In reply to Tim saville:

Unless its windy and from the right direction glen nevis will be midge infested hell. Sea cliff (or east coast) crags are better but quite a way from where you are, but glen nevis is about as bad as it gets around there in August.

In reply to Tim saville:

I'm sorry to be That UKC Guy Who Tells You You're Asking The Wrong Question Rather Than Just Answering It, but if you're looking for some outdoor sport climbing, wouldn't it make sense to go somewhere a bit easier to get to, less midgey and with better sport climbing options than the Highlands? Portland, Swanage, the Peak District, Yorkshire, the Mendips and North Wales are all considerably more accessible from East Anglia.

If I was in Lochaber without a trad rack I'd probably go walking or scrambling rather than sport climbing to be honest. Alternatively, you've got seven months to beg, steal or borrow a set of nuts and a few slings and learn what they're for...

In reply to Tim saville:

Check out either the excellent 7Amax select climbs guide or the equally excellent and full fat SMC Sport Climbs guide if you can - it'll help you see what is available in your grade band in the area you are visiting. Please note the midge advice - we aren't joking when we say it's midge hell - so bad climbing can be impossible is a realistic expectation especially if there is little wind so stock up on mozzy killer and also be wary of ticks! You will find many of the sport crags are quiet/deserted and in some pretty stunning scenery too, shortest walk in I know is around 30secs (Bennybeg) and like Andy says vast majority are well under an hour Many different rock types too incuding conglomerate so bear it in mind as some takes a little getting used to. Enjoy the trip!

In reply to Tim saville:

By the time you've climbed...

Carn Mor Dearg Arete, Ben Nevis
The Ring of Steall, The Mamores
Ledge route, Ben Nevis
Aonach Eagach, Glen Coe
Curved Ridge, Buachaille Etive Mor
Castle Ridge, Ben Nevis
North Butress, Buachaille Etive Mor
Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis

...I expect you'll not have time much time left for sport climbing.

In reply to JLS:











Maybe he wants to do some actual 'proper' rock climbing?

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

>"Maybe he wants to do some actual 'proper' rock climbing?"

Indeed, I'm sure that is the case, but sometimes the things we think we "want" aren't in our own best interests.

OP says: "spend alot of time at local indoor climbing due to lack of hills in Suffolk"

I see a an OP who's soul would benefit from cacking his pants on a mind expanding North Buttress scramble but probably isn't up to the rigours of Agag's without more equipment and a more experienced team member.