UKC

I'll be pushing the trigger on a new set of wheels soon and would like any? opinions on this topic. The wheels are for dry miles only and for riding in the UK and Europe. They will not be used for racing. I've never ridden Tubs and they weren't on my radar for this build until I read some information from the wheel builders who will probably get my money.

http://www.wheelsmith.co.uk/#!tubs-vs-clinchers/a02sc

Tubs appear lighter and stronger but with a bit more faff if punctured. What are they like in the UKC world?

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Do you not pull triggers and push buttons

I can't see why you would use tubs over a good clincher, I have used tubs in the past and they were very nice but that was for racing.

As for being stronger, well maybe, but what are you doing with them ?

In reply to Dark-Cloud:

I'm going to get my wheels built up with cheaper? carbon rims and from what I've read unless you spend top dollar it's not advisable to ride clincher rims in the high mountains due to overheating on the descents. Carbon tub rims, at least from Wheelsmiths, can be ridden anywhere.

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Replace a bit with a lot more faff.

hard choice, I use both and I use my tubs on rides which aren't racing. I like them a lot, and the wheels et itself is very nice. You do need to keep an eye on them, more so than clincher tyres.

I don't puncture much, maybe once a year (ignorning the MTB, and I am now cursed) so I happily gamble on the days I know I am on good roads (and even bad ones when the sun is shining because it makes me feel good).
I am sometimes a tad too lazy to take off my CX racing tubs but they have held up well for training rides, though I suspect one day I will eat my words on that.

Are you a weight weenie? How often do you puncture? You can carry a spare in a water bottle but practice before you go out. However if you suffer from bad luck with punctures just get clinchers. Loads less faff for riding and maintaining (like glueing tubs is not a fun way to spend an evening.

Who am I kidding get the tubs, they will bring a smile to your face. Otherwise just get top tyres and some latex inner tubes

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Interesting reading.

Never occurred to me to go for tubs when I built my sunday best bike - probably the perception that they were for out-and-out racers only, a faff to live with (punctures and carbon pads) and too expensive. All the bikes I was looking at off the peg had clinchers.

In hindsight, I probably should have considered them for that bike.

In reply to IMA:

Glueing tubs is so last century.... Double sided czech tube tape (originally for track racing) is the way forward!

Peel off punctured tire and old tape, stick tape to rim with a few cm sticking out to the side, put new tube on, inflate a bit and centre, deflate a bit, pull out protective layer to one side, inflate.

Takes me 10 minutes max to get going again, most of the time spent on careful centering. Never had any problems with the tyres slipping, even though I am rather heavy for a road cyclist (100kg).

That said, I have just ordered an extra set of clincher wheels. Replacing tubs on a monthly basis is simply too expensive, even though the comfort and ease of rolling is just not comparable.

CB

In reply to cb294:


Nothing new about double sided tub tape -- I switched to Tubs as soon as I started racing in the early 60's and as soon as I could afford it bought another set of wheels with heavier training / winter tubs. Back then clincher wheels and tyres ( 27" x 1 1/4") were just so heavy. I started off glueing, but switchced to sticky tapes after about a year. I never had an issue with tubs rolling off. I always carried a rolled up tub in my back pocket even when racing ( or slung below the saddle in a rolled up rain cape). A puncture without a spare when you are on your own out in the Northumberland lanes in the days before mobile phones was not a good idea. I also became a dab hand at repairing tubs -- but it was not a job for the roadside, as it involved a razor blade, needle and thread. My rule was 2 repairs then the tub went in the bin.

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Where are you reading this crap ? I have ridden in the Alps for years on clincher rims and never had an issue, or do you mean Carbon Clincher ?

A "cheap" carbon tub rim will be will be as heavy if not heavier than a good alloy one and a "cheap" carbon clincher, well, it's your teeth.

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Why not spend the money on good hubs, very good alloy rims and spokes and top flight clincher tyres. IMHO if it's your money, carbon wheels and rim brakes are not clever. Carbon wheels and disc brakes - different story.

Your wheelbuilder should be able to produce something really good for £500 ex tyres, or £750 or so with Royce or Chris King hubs. Personally, my next set for the dream bike that is under consideration if I summon up the courage to spend all that money, will be H Plus son archetype on Hope hubs, or maybe mavic open pro rims instead for around £470. Frame not available with disc brakes, so that solves that problem. That's a lot cheaper than my current set of factory wheels by a long chalk and I don't think there's much justification for spending the extra, let alone carbon wheels.


Better outcome than cheapish carbon rims that may look flash but don't live up to expectations.

If there's one thing worse than struggling in the rain with a punctured tyre, it's struggling in 35 degree heat with the same, with sweat dripping into your eyes and fingers slimier than that a toad's nose.

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

The reasons why you need tubs:

1. You have come across some fantastic wheels at an even better price but they just happen to be tub wheels.
2. Racing or Testing when a puncture means game over anyway.

That's it really. For everyday riding, club-runs, sportives and holidays abroad they aren't worth the faff.
Carrying a spare tub is all well and good but in the event of a puncture on a group ride you are not going to be able to glue the spare on and carry on with the ride at the same pace, especially descending and fast cornering.

Wally

In reply to Dark-Cloud:

Hi richlan. I should have made it clear in the original post that it's carbon rims.

I'm expecting the wheelset to be sub 1400g so not too heavy.

In reply to Bogwalloper:

Agree. I can't think of any benefits of tub wheels for general riding other than them looking fancy!

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

So which rims are you considering then ? And as above, there really is no reason you would want to use tubs than weight and comfort, if they are your two drivers then go for them, if they are not then go alloy, the braking performance of carbon rims will be poor compared to alloy.

You also haven't stated what your budget is, also why are you considering a wheel builder ? There is some pretty good factory wheels available.

In reply to Lord of Starkness:

I know tube tape is an old invention, but back in the 80s and 90s I did not really trust it, and went for glue instead. You definitely don´t want your tubs peeling off when going down a pass in the Alps!
I had my vintage Moser bike disassembled for most of the noughties, before rebuilding it a couple of years ago. The Czech tape I now use is much better, but I can´t remember the name. Also, I a a bit more careful on the descents.

CB

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

I'd probably expect my wheels to be lighter if I was getting tubs, around 1200-1300g mark for 35-40mm.

Regarding overheating/blow outs, depends on your braking, I've seen someone do it on a short but 33% hill in N.Wales but never in the European Mountains. God knows how many alpine and grim N. Wales descents my old zonda's have done without a blow out. Tip don't hold the brakes on. I'd be more worried about a cheap carbon clincher rim peeling than overheating and a blowing out a clincher.

I don't always buy that carbon rims offer poor braking, too many variables however I'd accept that with alloy there is less risk, especially at the lower end of the market

In reply to Rank_Bajin:




That article lost me at

'When (if?) you flat on a tubular, it should stick to the rim and not fly off like a clincher tyre. '

I've had loads of punctures over the years in all sorts of situations but never had a clincher 'fly off'

In reply to Dark-Cloud:

My budget is around £1200. I'm looking at 45mm carbon rims on Chris King hubs. I've had King hubs on my mountain bikes for years and they are bombproof.
I've got a set of Mavic Ksyerium SL's on my good bike but the rims are pretty worn and need replaced. I'm keen to go hand built which would allow rim replacement in the future for minimal cost.

Has anyone tried the sealant in their tubs after getting a flat?

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

You do know you can replace the rims on a machine built wheel as well? They are constructed from the same basic components

In reply to Orgsm:

No they generally aren't these days. Machine built wheels usually use straight pull spokes, OEM hubs and specific rims for just those wheels. Spares are often difficult, expensive or impossible to source. Most wheel builders won't touch them, worn rims on factory wheels normally means they go in the bin. Ps. CK hubs sometimes have problems, Dura Ace 9000 hubs are currently the nicest non exotic hub. They are beautifully engineered.

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Interesting solution to the problem of punctured tubs -

http://cycletechreview.com/2015/reviews/tufo-elite-s3-tubular/?utm_source=t...

Anyone used this in the UKC world?

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Those Tufo tubs look interesting. I might treat myself to their tubs that go on a clincher rim