UKC

Does any one know anything about that bizarrely placed sport climb on Holyhead mountain I believe according to UKC it's called 'Crimson crimp' or something just wondered were it came from who was the fa etc...cheers very curious.

In reply to leewil86:

Is this the one?

The Crimson Crimp (7b)

(sounds great...hmmm...!)

In reply to leewil86:

That's the sausage , I was wondering if it was worth re bolting , who was the first asscentionist as it says in that like it was originally climbed with gear at E6 , why was it then bolted , has any one had a good go on it , etc.

In reply to leewil86:

(disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about this route or it's history...)

Maybe the 'B Pritchard' is Ben Pritchard (climber / film-maker etc.)? Could be worth contacting him for details?

https://twitter.com/ben_pritchard

http://benpritchard.tv/

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=40096

In reply to Dave Todd:

Maybe although pretty sure I remember Paul Pritchard putting some routes up here too during the 1980s.

In reply to leewil86:

Remember that in 1988 an E grade didn't necessarily mean that a route wasn't what we now call a "sport route"; the term, with attendant French grade, took a while to be generally adopted. The 1990 CC guide description suggests that it was always bolted - predominantly, at least: "....E5 6b....passing five bolts to a lower-off point...."

In reply to wynaptomos:


Looks like you could be correct. Right at the end of Page 54 of this...

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1988%20Journal_nc.pdf

It mentions The Crimson Crimp (and it's next-door-neighbour, 'The Terrible Thing', FA George Smith), saying '...with Pritchard providing 'The Crimson Crimp' E5 6b.

Given the date and the place it was always likely to be Paul not Ben!

In reply to leewil86:

Thanks guys really interesting stuff , great to hear Paul Pritchard put it up I have stood at the base of it a few times (as I live in the area) and It does seem like a really good line ( as far as visualising the moves goes ) although the bolts look in a terrible state , in that area problems with climbing have usually been based on rock fall from the loose quarried rock above but above this route it looks fine and sturdy I would love to see the bolts replaced and have a go one day ......ya never know!

In reply to leewil86:

Thanks guys really interesting stuff , great to hear Paul Pritchard put it up I have stood at the base of it a few times (as I live in the area) and It does seem like a really good line ( as far as visualising the moves goes ) although the bolts look in a terrible state , in that area problems with climbing have usually been based on rock fall from the loose quarried rock above but above this route it looks fine and sturdy I would love to see the bolts replaced and have a go one day ......ya never know!

In reply to leewil86:
They were never trad, I thought one was put up by George Smith and the other Paul Pritchard. I seem to remember that when they were making Quarry into a country park they excavated the bottom making the start lower and also fenced them off. If they are no longer banned it'd be good to see them rebolted.

In reply to Tyler:

Cheers Tyler , yeah they were never trad , there is minimal if any placements for gear the Crimson crimp always seemed to be a bolted route no doubt , there is a fence on the side but it is purely for a path and yes it has been dug out and is very over grown at the base , but I'm sure you're right there may be an issue about it being rebolted and climbing there as the park warden often wonders about ahh well very interesting you never know someone one day may rebolt it and dig up this golden oldie!