UKC

What do people think are the best gloves for long technical mixed routes? (am talking multiple pitches of tech 7+)

I use BD Scree but end up with wet hands from sweat(!) and OR Alibi but they are not water proof. Either way I end up with wet gloves after one pitch and climb the rest of the route in my belay gloves. So I usually save these gloves for crux pitches as a one hit glove. However most of the routes we are aiming for now have several hard pitches so i need a more sustainable option.

I use OR Warrent gloves as belay gloves and am comfortable handling tools in these but find them too bulky for handling the gear.

Any suggestions??

In reply to Smith42:

I think Warrants are going to be hard to better for a waterproof glove if they fitt you well. You tried MHW Hydra Pro or ME Cascade Xtrafit? Pretty similar to Warrants though. Maybe try Hestra Ergo Grip OutDry Dexterity Short

In reply to Smith42:

For multiple hard pitches, I don't think any skinny technical glove will stay dry so best keep them under a mid layer between climbing to at least keep them warm and suck it up for the second pitch. Or go for something slightly less dextrous like these: http://www.decathlon.co.uk/alpinism-leather-gloves-id_3256818.html with application of a leather waterproofing agent which could give you lots of pitches..... Either way, 2+ pairs of climbing gloves (not including belay gloves) per route is a good starter!

Andy

In reply to Smith42:

Have you tried the Skytech Argon work gloves? Not everyone gets on with them but if they work for you then they're great. Some folks don't like them at first because they're quite stiff making it harder to grip your shaft (oo er) but they quickly pack down in use.

In reply to andyinglis:


Have you used them Andy?

In reply to Smith42:

Warrant is perfectly ok for tech 7. Even for a punter like me.

In reply to Smith42:
I use Black Diamond Arc Gloves for tech 7. I have found these to be a good trade off between dexterity, warmth & keeping the wet out.

http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/climbing-gloves/arc-glove-BD801670BL...

In reply to DaveHK:

Yes managed 1.5days in them at the weekend. Deep snow and unburying mainreachan did get them wet, so only 3 pitches on day 2.

In reply to SteveHolmes:

I use these but they are as water resistant as paper. 1 pitch only unless its very dry air, and not heavy conditions.

In reply to Smith42:
There is no such thing as the best glove. But there is such a thing as the best gloves. You would be better off trying to win the lottery as to find the best glove. Just buy something and live with it. Don't get too fussy get on with it.

In reply to alpine69:

Did you marry something and have to live with it?!?!

In reply to iksander:

Thanks, might have a look, not tried any MHW stuff.

In reply to SteveHolmes:

I think these are very similar to the BD Scree. The pair I use are probably past their best, but I tried new pair and one glove was smaller than the other, poor quality control, not hand size I hasten to add!

In reply to andyinglis:

Thanks, I had thought about multiply pairs. We never used to bother with a seconds pack, so Iv always had pockets stuffed with food, torch etc and leading gloves inside my jacket. I was hoping for a magic pair of gloves that were waterproof, warm, dexterous, breathable etc. I guess the simple answer might be to take more gloves, especially as we will probably carry a seconds pack on the longer route.

In reply to andyinglis:

Ps, well done on the Needle.

In reply to Smith42:

It's funny that you are looking for hard leading gloves that are waterproof (funny, strange, rather than haha) - I've always thought that waterproof gloves aren't dextrous enough for doing fiddly work like placing wires. I can place ice screws and clip them no worries in BD punishers for example, but place a no.2 wire is harder! I can't climb as hard as you, but back in the 90s when I live in Scotland I led up to V,6 and found that I needed dextrous gloves for things like placing small wires, knifeblades, etc etc. At the time, for mixed I wore Wild Country thinnies under a pair of Wild Country Sticky Thickies and remember them as working quite well. Then you just had mitts for belaying and would shove the Thickies in your jacket to warm/dry a bit. Last winter I only got to climb in the Lakes for mixed, but wore just the light leather palmed Decathlon gloves (about 15 quid) and they were great, then just had some warmer gloves for belaying.

In reply to Smith42:
Black Diamond Dry Tool Gloves............. except that as with so many brilliant bits of kit they're not made any more I've not found anything to compare, but would love to know if there is.

In reply to Robert Durran:

I v tried them, too cold for Scotland when you spend half your time clearing snow/hoar to find gear. Thanks anyway.

In reply to TobyA:
Thanks, I used to climb in dachtines back in the day. Great for classic routes up to V. Ticked most of Cold Climbs in mine!

In reply to TobyA:

I "accidentally" found myself ploughing up a route last week in waterproof mitts, from which the inner has been removed, over the top of my thin, soft, fingered liner gloves. Very (but not too) warm and dry. And for dexterity I simply pulled off the mitt with teeth or other hand according to availability, and fiddled with gear. The inner gets a bit damp from contact with snow but dries fast in the mitt. The rest of the week I wore my usual Punishers out of habit (and suitability for my grade level) but it did make me wonder whether the mitt outer/fingered inner liner was a good way forward.

In reply to Robert Durran:
They stopped making the Torque?

Oh, the Hestra Ergogrip Short is really dexterous, waterproof. .. But not that warm.

OR Lodester is also rather nimble and reasonable warm, but not waterproof. And on sale at SportPursuit. As are the Warrants.

In reply to Smith42:


I carry two pairs. I wear them under shell gloves (also now almost impossible to obtain - Mountain Hardwear and Marmot used to make them, but now I have Decathlon ones from which I have had to cut out a liner and they look like they'll only last one route. Cheap though.) which stay on for easier sections and seconding. I usually start a lead with the shells on and remove them once warmed up - this system works very well for me and I do feel the cold! Toasty Montane Extreme Mitts next to the skin on belays while everything else warms up inside 4 or 5 layers of clothing.

In reply to HeMa:


They do sound similar to the Dry Tool Gloves. I might have a look at them if and when I get my winter psyche back.......

In reply to Smith42:
Not climbing as hard as your self, but have found these super dexterous for fiddling with wires etc, and the leather palm is really grippy, they seem to stick to wires when it's cold too but not in a way that will rip the leather. Carry a couple of pairs (2-3) and some mittens or big gloves for belaying in, they'll wet out eventually but all of them do.

http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/super-alpine-glove

In reply to andyinglis: Any suggestions for a suitable waterproofer ?

In reply to Nath93:

I'm definately not climbing as hard as the OP but I own a pair of the same gloves and the black diamond arc.

To the OP

They are very similer but have noticed the the ME super alpine gloves seem to be more durable and also a tad warmer than the arcs.
Although neither are what I would class as warm gloves and wet out easily especially the palms.

Please take this advice with a pinch of salt as I climb at half the grades that you climb, but I think it's a trade off between warmth and dexterity and only you can decide on which suits you / the grade best.

cheers

Gaz

In reply to Mike Conlon:

I have used a NikWax product in the past and also a spray can, can't recall the manufacturer though.....

In reply to Smith42:

Have you tried these, they can be a little restrictive but they are hard wearing

In reply to andyinglis:

I found covering your thin lead glove with silicone helps prevent the glove from wetting out as quick. Doesn't look attractive but it's effective.