UKC

dorsel arete

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alburns 22 Jan 2016
planning on doing dorsel arête January /February this year been looking online/youtube videos , anyone done it & what gear did you use not seen many folk using ice screws ( even on their racks) , do you think slings, rocks, cams possibly spector hooks for the frozen turf should do the trick?
 aldo56 22 Jan 2016
In reply to alburns:

Mainly slings from memory. I think we took some nuts and hexes too.
alburns 22 Jan 2016
In reply to aldo56:

thank mate
 Hobojim 22 Jan 2016
In reply to alburns:

Lots of slings! Half a set of nuts and a couple of hexes. Fast and light works well on the route.
In reply to alburns:

I've moved this to the Winter Climbing Form as you will get more help here.

Done it a few times. Its a mixed route so you'll need a wires, hexes and take slings as there are a number of spikes you can sling.
 top cat 22 Jan 2016
In reply to alburns:

Strong Left arm for the crux.........
 zebidee 22 Jan 2016
In reply to alburns:

Took a set of nuts and bunch of slings when we did it last Saturday ... could have done with a couple of hexes but it's easy ground except for the crux.

No point taking screws or hooks (although we did see some folks with them).
1philjones1 22 Jan 2016
In reply to alburns:

Did it on Wednesday. Lots of deep snow, fairly un consolidated but decent enough axe placements through the powder on top. Dug out a few belays, just about all slings but half a set of nuts was useful. Didn't use any screws and wouldn't bother taking any. Took four extenders which was the max you will need. Really nice route and broad gully was fine in descent.
 bags 22 Jan 2016
In reply to alburns:

As everyone else has already said, slings are the way forward. I remember some clanking on the way so I think we must have taken some hexes with us, but definitely didn't use them. There's also plenty of spikes in the perfect places to watch people up the difficult bits, so you should be able to travel quite quickly.
Nice route, excellent choice!
 Jack Frost 22 Jan 2016
In reply to alburns:

I did it in a Norcon skateboarding helmet, walking boots with strap-on 10 point crampons and two Stubai walking axes. For gear we used slings and that was about it, maybe a couple of hexes for the belays. Ah those were the days.
Jim C 22 Jan 2016
In reply to Jack Frost:

> I did it in a Norcon skateboarding helmet, walking boots with strap-on 10 point crampons and two Stubai walking axes. For gear we used slings and that was about it, maybe a couple of hexes for the belays. Ah those were the days.

Que responses like -
when we were lads we did it in sandles with nails hammered through the soles , a claw hammer and a ball of strong string....
 Jim Fraser 22 Jan 2016
In reply to alburns:
Aye lad, bailing twine and a pocket full o pebbles.




youtube.com/watch?v=Xe1a1wHxTyo&
Post edited at 18:52
 Jack Frost 22 Jan 2016
In reply to Jim C:

And your point is? I was merely trying to illustrate that gear for Dorsal Arête doesn't need to be extensive.

How did you know your string was strong enough? Was it UIAA rated?
 neil9216 23 Jan 2016
In reply to Jack Frost:

He didn't say it was strong enough
He merely said strong string, which was probably written on the label.
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