UKC

New Bosigran and North Coast guide

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 Tom Last 23 Jan 2016
Heads up.

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/new-bosigran-guide/

A massive amount of work and real labour of love.

Well done Andy and team!

 Fiend 23 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Greenstone and Killas HYPE!
OP Tom Last 23 Jan 2016
In reply to Fiend:

Rammed with the stuff!
 Fiend 24 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Yay. This spring's hitlist.
OP Tom Last 24 Jan 2016
In reply to Fiend:

Let me know when you're down
 Mark Kemball 27 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Just got my copy - well impressed - a "must have" for West Country climbers.
In reply to Tom Last:

Great stuff, I'm looking forward to seeing this - got a lot of good memories from down that neck of the woods.

Whilst on topic of the South West, does anyone know if Iain and Gareth will be running another Cornish Climbing Festival later this year (or are they relaxing in the knowledge that they've got a lot of prep in store (!!) for the Lundy Festival in 2017)?
 CurlyStevo 27 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Looks ace
 Ben Snook 27 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

I've been abroad for 2 years and am returning next week, so will definitely want this to be waiting for me!! What wonderful timing...
 Sean Kelly 27 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

No Graded List and no Top 50, but this could be politics. Page 277 is a lovely double page spread of how 2 powerful photos come together. I'm sure somebody will be on here soon nitpicking about the grades. Not back pocket stuff but a nice production. Seems to be the trend today as few climb with a guidebook.
 Iain Peters 27 Jan 2016
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
> Whilst on topic of the South West, does anyone know if Iain and Gareth will be running another Cornish Climbing Festival later this year (or are they relaxing in the knowledge that they've got a lot of prep in store (!!) for the Lundy Festival in 2017)?

Sure is Rob! End of August. New venue. Still awaiting confirmation but hopefully will be close to one of the finest crags in West Cornwall. The date coincides with the 50th anniversary of the FA of Right Angle. As you know, I'm a shy little wallflower when it comes to a party, but hell I first climbed the thing with a raging hangover so why not repeat the experience half a century later? A mass ascent might be called for!!

Lundy17: watch this space.

 Kafoozalem 27 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

A big thank you to the authors. A huge undertaking for such a small team. Great to have more phototopo's to undermine my excuses on my next visit
OP Tom Last 27 Jan 2016
In reply to Kafoozalem:

Some great photos of yours in there Pete
In reply to Iain Peters:

Great news! Let me know the dates as/when they've been confirmed, wouldn't want to miss it!

Good news regarding August too, I've never climbed at Carn Les Boel and I gather that's the best time to go? Burning Gold has always been high up on my list of priorities, but I've never quite made it to the to the top owing to having always been around when there's something of a bird situation.

Let me know if there's anything I can do to help throughout the weekend, other than convince as many people as possible to come from Sheffield, get drunk, and climb routes in the dark...

 Iain Peters 28 Jan 2016
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> Let me know if there's anything I can do to help throughout the weekend, other than convince as many people as possible to come from Sheffield, get drunk, and climb routes in the dark...

....not to mention epic retreats in hurricane force winds after being advised by a local weather expert...ahem... that the storm had passed!
 bpmclimb 28 Jan 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Seems to be the trend today as few climb with a guidebook.

That's an exaggeration, IMO. It's something of a trend, certainly, but there's still a lot of guidebook-wielding climbers out there.
 Misha 28 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:
It's A5 but pretty slim, so not a doorstop like the Rockfax and so not unreasonable for a second to carry in a guide book cover. However with large, clear photo topos, a photo on a camera and/or phone is a good option.

Looks great, lots of inspirational photos and of course comprehensive coverage.
 Dave Garnett 29 Jan 2016
In reply to Misha:

> However with large, clear photo topos, a photo on a camera and/or phone is a good option.

I generally find books to be more chalk-resistant than phones. Plus, I've found guidebooks to be perfectly serviceable despite having been dropped the height of a crag; phones... not so much!
 Puppythedog 29 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

I have my copy and I think it is wonderful. I think the quality is great and I'm itching to make my way across from Essex. Well worth the purchase I think.
 brianrunner 29 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Guide looks great. Hope to plan another visit soon!
Brian
 Mark Kemball 29 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Having great fun transferring my ticks. Oh, the joy of a new guidebook.
 Hat Dude 29 Jan 2016
In reply to Misha:

> so not unreasonable for a second to carry in a guide book cover.

But will it fit in my CC guidebook cover or will they be producing a bigger version of that - blatant money making!

(Got my hands the book last night & it does look nice)
 Mark Kemball 29 Jan 2016
In reply to Hat Dude:

Comfortably fits in the large DMM cover, but not the smaller one.
 Sean Kelly 29 Jan 2016
In reply to Mark Kemball:
> Having great fun transferring my ticks. Oh, the joy of a new guidebook.

Transfering ticks??? I gave that up years ago as regards guides, what with the internet, computers etc!
Post edited at 17:32
 Kafoozalem 30 Jan 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

I'm with Mark - nearly finished the job now. If they ain't ticked in the guide my memory will fail me at the crag. I was really proud of an "onsight" this year until I logged it at UKC only to find I'd led it 20+ years ago.
Lots of daggered routes to repeat - scope for a ticklist?
I can thoroughly recommend Pedn Kei West (P59-60). As I was ticking I realised I'd taken some topo photos when I was last there. I have just uploaded them - should be on the system soon.
 Mark Kemball 31 Jan 2016
In reply to Kafoozalem:

> I was really proud of an "onsight" this year until I logged it at UKC only to find I'd led it 20+ years ago.

Is this a "retro-flash"?
 Sean Kelly 31 Jan 2016
In reply to Kafoozalem:

This memory thing Pete, is becoming a bit of a problem as old age creeps up on us all. I'm sat here sorting some pics for the new Dartmoor guide and really struggle to remember who is climbing what. Sometimes it comes...
 Iain Peters 31 Jan 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

While you're at it Sean put any pics of ND&C to one side for the new guide!
 Big Ger 31 Jan 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Is there a photo topo for Logan Rock?
 Mark Kemball 31 Jan 2016
In reply to Big Ger:

Logan Rock is in the next volume, this is from St Ives to Land's End.
OP Tom Last 31 Jan 2016
In reply to Big Ger:

> Is there a photo topo for Logan Rock?

Pretty sure there will be, though as Mark says Logan Rock will be in the next guide which should with luck be out about this time next year and will cover Pordenack Park to The Lizard.

Is there anything in particular you're looking for at Logan Rock? I've climbed a reasonable amount there and might be able to point you in the right direction.
 Big Ger 01 Feb 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Cheers to Tom and mark.

Nothing in particular Tom, I just have an amazing ability not to be able to find things there.

What are the names of the routes on the face directly under the Logan stone itself mate?
 Andy2 01 Feb 2016
In reply to Big Ger:

I've spent plenty of time at Logan Rock failing to find things. Part of the problem is that the 2000 guide has "Time Out" and "Deep Think" on the West Face, when they're actually on the East Face.

The North Face, beneath the Logan Rock itself, contains "Jack Yer Body", "Blondie Jams.." etc.

HTH.
OP Tom Last 01 Feb 2016
In reply to Big Ger:
From left, those routes are Blondie Jams with Sepultura (the short brutal HVS hand crack off the ledge), then further right is Jack Yer Body (the thin finger crack to the overlap, then brutal offwidth above, E5). All the other routes on that face were in the last guide described as having, to paraphrase: "been climbed by commandos in big boots at some stage" and were left ungraded, I don't know if this has changed in the new guide.

Some of the confusion at LR stems from the 2000 guide having confused the east and west faces to some extent, this is partially rectified in the supplement, which I don't have to hand I'm afraid.

Hope that helps.
Tom
Post edited at 09:16
 Big Ger 02 Feb 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Thanks Andy and Tom!
 Chris H 02 Feb 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Anyone know when it will be in the shops?
In reply to Tom Last:

I managed to momentarily get my mitts on Kafoozalem's copy at the Barn yesterday evening. It's a nice size, not heavy and looks very well set out.
Removed User 03 Feb 2016
In reply to Chris H:

It should be in the shops now. Certainly available via the OP's link to the CC website. Sample Bosigran pages there too.
In reply to Removed UserJohn Willson:

Funnily enough there's a Product News Item for the guide going live shortly, really nice piece - written by the authors - with a few extra tid-bits of information on new routes, new crags, and esoteric gems. In addition to that there's a load of sample pages and action shots from the guide, which incidentally look great.

Still haven't got my copy, but will be buying one soon.

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