UKC

I'm moving back down to London in 2 months time and would like to live close to a wall this time.

Just wondering if anyone could comment on the facilities of the walls around the centre.

Biscuit Factory - I liked this wall a lot. Good training board, circuit board was okay but not the best, campus section was good. Was open at 06:30 (though I think the newer building is now the early one?). Bouldering was good too.

Arch building one - Again this was a cool wall. Systems board wasn't as good IMO, but the campus/peg board was good. Traverse wall was pretty useful also. Again, this had decent bouldering too.

Arch - North building - I've not visited this. Any thoughts on what the facilities are like?

Mile End - I've not visited this. Any thoughts on what the facilities are like?

The Castle - Only had one quick session but it was so busy that I wasn't a huge fan. Cant remember what the training facilities were like but trying to get on a boulder problem involved a fair old queue half the time... Any more thoughts on what it is like in Summer?

Vauxhall Wall - I've not visited this. Any thoughts on what the facilities are like?

Any others?

Thoughts would be very much appreciated!

In reply to James Malloch:

You've missed the Westway!

Not as good as most of the above for bouldering, although there is a decent amount, but I'd say the best for lead climbing. More tall walls than the castle although now the Castle has opened extra wells they might be catching up a bit. Has the big comp wall for training on steep stuff and has the usual system board, campus board, pull up bars, circuits room etc. They also do a version of the membership that lets you use the Westway gym if your interested.

In reply to James Malloch:
Worth noting that membership of the Arch gives you access to all 3 walls. Not been to The arch North in Burnt Oak yet (I'm Saath Landan, innit) but the biscuit and building one always have loads to keep me interested... I am lucky that my job allows most of my climbing to be off peak though. Like all London walls, they can get busy in the evenings.

In reply to James Malloch:

The Arch/Biscuit across the two Bermondsey sites is for my money now the best bouldering facility in London. I prefer the old building which has an excellent board and comp wall. Used to have a Moon Board set up which I loved though didn't see much use and was merged into the circuit board unfortunately.

Mile End - an excellent bouldering wall and good value. Good (pretty hardcore) training board and general training set up. Circuits generally done in the Monkey Room which is essentially roof climbing so not ideal for training value anywhere I've ever climbed outside but good fun.

Vauxwall - nice pretty new wall, air conditioned in one room so great in the summer. Seems relatively quiet at weekends unlike most other walls. Not massive but enough to go at. Campus board set up is poor (although the 'King of BIFF' trains there) but training board is hard and good. Some nice Beastmaker wooden holds to train on.

I would describe the Castle as the best 'all-round' wall in London - excellent and extensive bouldering and good routes. Does get very busy and is top-end in terms of pricing. Don't know what they have there now in terms of training board but they used to have a good campus set up.

You've forgotten the Westway. If you ever lead routes this is a must-have on your list as it's the best in London for this. Bouldering-wise has two rooms, 'the Oven' which is generally easier stuff at a mix of angles including a small cave, and 'the Fridge' which is mostly an overhanging comp-style wall with a board section included (more recently). Has a circuit room which is fine if you like going round and round, and used to have a system room though this has been in poor shape for a long time - this looks like it may be being redeveloped.

In reply to James Malloch:
Two others:

Climbing Hangar (formerly Urban Ascent) - Top notch bouldering facility. Quite small, but never cramped. Has one fingerboard upstairs and there was some rings up once (may be gone now), but the main reason to go is lots of high quality bouldering with frequent setting (usually a part of the wall is re-set every 1-2 weeks). Perfect access if you're on that branch of the District line (2 mins walk from Parson's Green) or if you're happy to cycle. Staff are very friendly and just has a nice atmosphere.

White Spider - Nice big venue, but quite out of the way unless you happen to live near Tolworth. Loads of lead routes, big top-roping room (can be full to capacity on week nights until 8) and a big bouldering area that is usually rather empty even when other things are busy. Similar in size to Westway (except no outdoors bit). I enjoy the place.

In reply to James Malloch:

The Reach - arguably one of the best in London. Extensive and loads of variety from a choice of bouldering, top roping, auto belays and a great selection of high lead walls.

In reply to James Malloch:
Vauxwall is my local wall these days.

Positives:
- if you get it at a quieter time, it's a nice place to be, clean, airy, light
- friendly staff
- lots of different styles of problem
- entry system is good

Negatives:
- insanely busy on weeknight evenings to the point where it's (in my opinion) a bit dangerous
- management seem a bit too worried about getting beginners to answer questions on how to get off the wall (downclimb is the seemingly correct answer) than worrying about the significantly more real danger of not sitting under climbers and chatting. More than once I've been on a line about to make a higher hard move and someone sits underneath me. Crazy.
- grading is generally haphazard. They have a 'permaset' of routes that are supposed to be very well graded and there to assess your improvement. The V6 is most definitely no harder than V4. In fact it's easier than most of the V4s elsewhere in the place. Wouldn't matter if they didn't suggest it to be benchmark!
- expensive at £70 a month for the only 'usable' membership if you work normal hours.

I used to really like the wall and climb every second day, but frankly right now it's too busy, too expensive and too stressful with people sitting under you to be particularly useful. I climb there once a week. Fingers crossed they can expand it significantly before too long.

In reply to James Malloch:


Depending when you were last there but the bouldering has been expanded along with everything else. Depending when you go queues aint huge and can normally find somewhere else to play if they are.
For summer has the outside boulders. Recently extended with a bunch more auto belays (think 8 or so now).

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

Agree! Vauxwall is way too busy after 6pm, particularly considering its smaller size. The setting/grading is a bit random too.

Building One at the Arch is my hands down favourite for bouldering.

There is a place in Fulham, which was called Urban Ascent, now the Climbing Hangar. Not been myself, but supposed to be pretty good. Just off the tube at Parsons Green.

In reply to GrimpeurJim:

I'd give another plus to Climbing Hanger / Urban Ascent. Very nice friendly wall, its not massive but they've just redeveloped the top of it to almost double the space. Haven't been since then. It's also right near putney bridge so nice for a beer by the river afterwards! I think they may be facing the risk of a compulsory purchase and bulldozing though as TFL want to use their land for something else. They had a petition going against it but not sure whats happened, would check that out if you're considering that area, would be a real shame if they went.

In reply to James Malloch:

Arch North -- big circuit board, campus boards, system board, Beastmakers. Nothing too different training-wise from the other two Arch buildings, barring one campus board with the giant round wooden rung things. Lots and lots of bouldering and I like how they've used the space -- lots of variety and interesting changes of angle.

In my experience, it's the quietest of the Arches and can be pleasant at times (like weekends) when the other two are way too crowded for me. I imagine that'll change over time as more users of the other Arches venture up north to check it out and more local climbers join, but in the meantime, it's a good bet if you like your space.

I only visit Mile End occasionally, but it has a big training room (system board, multiple big campus boards, fingerboards) hidden away down a corridor, an old school traverse wall (bolt-on holds on top of bricks with bits gouged out and polished concrete features), and the Monkey Room if you want to get super strong on roofs and steep stuff.

The Reach is somewhat out of the way for me, but I love it every time I go. More focused on routes than bouldering, but there's a Monkey Room-like cave and a very well-equipped training room.

In reply to GrimpeurJim:

One of my mates suggested the Hangar. I live and work in Brixton area with a dog so it may be tough to get to parsons green, climb and get back in time . But will give it a go! Thanks for the recommendation.

In reply to GrimpeurJim:

I will throw stones in to Vauxhall as well. It's closest gym to my house, but I have been there just twice and don't plan to come back. It is the most expensive in London. Castle is £65, but at least Castle is biggest and well set.

The future of Urban Ascent is uncertain, so I would not plan to settle next to it. Building it is renting from is owned by TFL and they are selling the place now. New landlord may or may not kick them out.

Westway is very good if one is up for leading. They do a discount for bmc and alpine clubs members on Mon and Fri making it one of cheapest places to climb as well.

Castle is very nice place and jack of all trades. A lot of visitors as well, few Meetups and they run sessions daily pairing people who are a bit lonely or adventurous. However it is expensive.

In reply to James Malloch:

Update: heard through the grapevine that Vauxwall are expanding in to another railway arch, that'll make four in total an increase the capacity by 33% over current. May make it bearable of an eve again.

In reply to James Malloch:

Apologies for the late reply but I really appreciate the responses from everyone!

Its good to have an idea of the different places.

I think I'm going to continue my housing search around Bermondsey/Mile End as they seem like the better walls for what I'm after, plus it's close enough to work that I can walk/cycle everyday.

It would be good to check out the other walls too though so if anyone ever needs a climbing partner then let me know!

In reply to SenzuBean:

I had a few sessions at White Spider last year. I was most impressed with the place. I only bouldered. I thought the route setting was excellent (primarily by Yann, who is a great setter). The cave was a fantastic bit of wall for longer strength endurance roof problems. Again the high quality setting really helped.

In reply to James Malloch:
Check out Craggy Sutton if you can get there, a bit out of the way but leagues above any bouldering centre in the South!

Just be prepared for an ego bashing!

In reply to maybe_si:

shameful

In reply to sihills:

It's not shameful, I stopped working there last week!

In reply to maybe_si:


I'd agree with that and I've never worked there. Not only better than any of the walls in London but better than them all put together.