UKC

I have a knee injury which hasn't improved in 8 months and looks like it may become a permanent disability. This limits what I can climb, but even more so it limits crags I can walk to. The most I can manage would be about a 10 min walk for "normal" people. Preferably without scrambling, loose scree etc.

So I am looking for ideas for crags I can get to - international rather than UK focussed. In particular this is for a 3 month trip to western USA from early March to end of May. But ideas for anywhere that fits the bill would be welcome.

I don't boulder, but any style of climbing - trad or sport, single or multi-pitch. (Multi-pitch routes MUST have the possibility of abseil descents - I can't do walkoffs.)
Any grade from 5.6 (Fr 3+) to 10a (6a).

Very grateful for any suggestions........

In reply to Katemonster:

Joshuah Tree
Calico Hills Red Rocks

Thanks Scott.
Actually, the current plan is to start at J tree and then move on to Red Rocks and take it from there.
Have been to both those places before, so have an idea of where to go.

I am wondering about Tahoe area but maybe Lovers Leap is too long a walk, and maybe May is a bit early for Donner summit???
Also we will go to Yosemite valley, for my partner to climb some big stuff with other people. Not sure if there's anything around there for me.

In reply to Katemonster:

Some of Yosemite is really close to the road - you should be fine. Tuolumne is also pretty close but not so sure about abseil descents on the multi pitch. I think they were largely walk offs.

In reply to Katemonster:

Yosemite! April-May would be perfect. Royal Arches (5.7) is a super-classic 5.7 with a 10 minute walk-in and abseil descent. There is a load of single pitch cragging with 5 minute walk-ins and great routes - pick up the Supertopo guidebook for details. One I particularly enjoyed was Bishop's Terrace (5.8). I'm a bit less sure about the length of the walk-in for these (it may be more like 15 minutes), but I would also really recommend The Grack Center (5.6), Harry Daley (5.8) and Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9). Also the scenery will be wonderful at that time of year with all the waterfalls flowing!

Other areas... Wall Street in Moab fits your criteria, and also No match for crag id:3030. If you happen to find yourself in the Pacific Northwest (and I wouldn't recommend it in March-May) then there is a fair bit you could do in Squamish, and there is some excellent granite with a 5 minute flat walk-in at Index Town Wall.

Thanks!
Royal Arches sounds like a great objective for this trip, and I'll pencil in Index for the future.

In reply to Katemonster:

Lovers Leap is easier to approach than much of the Calico Hills. Lots of places have stuff near the road. Tuolumne is unlikely to be open.

In reply to Offwidth:

What date does Tuolumne usually open?
I think there's a website with dates from past years, but I can't find it just now.

I've only been in autumn - would be cool to be there at very start of season, although I think most of the approaches (and descents) would be impossible for me now

In reply to Katemonster:

There is roadside stuff around Moab. River Road, Long Canyon. Bits of Indian Creek might be ok.

In reply to Katemonster:
In Yosemite, there are some cracking climbs on Manure Pile Buttress, which is about 30 seconds walk from the car, maybe 10 minutes from Camp 4. Best climb is Nutcracker, and I thought CS Concerto very good.

In reply to Katemonster:

Right off the road to short easy walks in

Eldorado and Boulder Canyons in Colorado
Needles in South Dakota (not CA!)
Devil's Tower in Wyoming.

I don't know from personal experience but believe that City of Rocks in Idaho would also fit the bill.

In reply to Katemonster:

Lovers leap is a very short/easy walk in, almost roadside. I recall the walk off was quite long down the side if the crag but can't recall if there are abseil options.

Many of the granite domes at Toulumne are very close to the road, I recall parking literally right next to the start of batch of routes. Some you can abseil down from.

There will be an array of options I'm sure. Good luck!

In reply to rgold:


It definitely would (if not too cold early in year).

In reply to Katemonster:


http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/tiogaopen.htm

Thanks all.

City of Rocks, Needles/ Rushmore, and Moab duly added to the list.
Will investigate descents from lovers Leap

Good to know there is roadside stuff in Yosemite

I think my only problem now is too many places to go in the last month as many will be at their best in May.

In reply to Katemonster:

Schoolhouse Rock at Tahoe is by the road but not much of a destination. lover Leap has a short walk but the broken, bouldery Pony Express road is a right pain to walk on.

In reply to alan moore:

That's the kind of detail that's useful, thanks

In reply to alan moore:

Really? Moff didnt think so when hobbled along it with a pot on, when she was recovering from a blown achilles.

In reply to Offwidth:

Maybe they swept up; I'm talking ten years ago, so possibly no longer relevant.

In reply to Katemonster:

At lovers leap this is excellent: It's better with bacon (5.8)

abseil descent and only a short walk from the campground.